


HOW TO MAKE A FLOWER GARDEN 



How to 
Make a Flower Garden 



A Manual of Practical Information 
and Suggestions 

Illustrated 



NEW YORK 

DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & COMPANY 

1903 



THE LIBRARY Of 
CONGRESS, 

DCC tV !9Ci3 

J^rtc^. 11-1103 
CLAHR O' yyn No, 

1 4-4- <-/- 8 

COPY R 



r_<b' 



.<■' 



Copyright, 1901, 1902, 1903, by 

Doubleday, Pa2;e & Company 

Published, November, 1903 




CONTENTS 



All the iUiistrations in this book are accounted for in the index. 
Introduction : The Spirit of the Home Garden . L. H. Bailey 

Annuals ••........ 

I. The Best Kinds and How to Grow Them L. H. Bailey 

II. How to Get Early Flowers . . Sarah Hopkins 

Perennials .......... 

I. Some Lessons from the Pan-American 



CH.\PTE 
I. 



II. 



Exposition .... 

II. How to Make a Border 
III. Hardy Perennials from Seed 
IV. Our Hardy Flowers 

V. Scattered Planting vs. Masses 

III. Shrubs and Shrubbery 

I. Shrubs and Where to Put Them 
II. How to Prune Shrubs 
III. Home Propagation of Shrubbery 

IV. Trees for the Home Grounds 

I. Flowering and Ornamental Trees 
II. Some Weeping Trees 



L. H. Bailey 

F. W. Barclay 

Hattie L. Knight 

Alice M. Rathbone 

".1/." 

L. H. Bailey 

William Falconer 

Frank H. Sweet 

O. C. Simonds 
W. C. Egan 



PAGB 

ix 



i6 

25 

26 

36 
39 
52 

53 

69 
78 

83 
92 



INTRODUCTION 




The Spirit of the Home Garden 

Simple OfsirtB, tnith ebtrp Ocaire tocll planncO ann tocll carrtcD out, rfsult in tfce brat catlirne. 
?El)e oartifn must be pouts; if it is another's it is not Inortb the tnhilf to pou. 
a cooB oaiDcn is tbr on? that eibrs its olnnrt the moat plrasurr: br map etoto orcbins or tbistUs, 
2rbc measure of success in tlje BarBcn is tbe sensitibe mint) tatbcr tban tlje plants. 

By L. H. Bailey 

^HE home garden is for the affections. It is for quality. 
Its size is wholly immaterial if only it have the best. I 
do not mean the rarest or the costliest, but the best — the 
best geranium or the best lilac. Even the fruit garden and 
the vegetable garden are also for the affections: one can 
buy ordinary fruits and vegetables — it never pays to grow them in the 
home garden. When you want something superior, you must grow it, or 
else buy it at an advanced price directly from some one who grows for 
quality and not for quantity. If you want the very choicest and the most 
personal products, almost necessarily you must grow them: the value of 
these things cannot be measured in money. The commercial gardener 
may grow what the market wants, and the market wants chiefly what is 
cheap and good looking. The home gardener should grow what the market 
cannot supply, else the home garden is not worth the while. 

A garden is a place in which plants are grown, and "plants" are herbs 
and vines and bushes and trees and grass. Too often do persons think 
that only formal and pretentious places are gardens. But an open lawn 
about the house may be a garden ; so may a row of hollyhocks along the 
wall or an arrangement of plants in the greenhouse. Usually there is some 
central feature to a garden, a theme to which all other parts relate. This 
may be a walk or a summer-house or a sun-dial or a garden bed or the residence 
itself, or a brook falling down the sward between trees and bushes and clumpy 
growths. There are as many forms and kinds of gardens as there are persons 
who have gardens; and this is one reason why the garden appeals to every 

ix 



X How to Make a Flower Garden 

one, and why it may become the expression of personaHty. You need 
follow no man's plan. The simplest garden is likely to be the best, merely 
because it is the expression of a simple and teachable life. 

Grow the plants that you want, but do not want too many. Most persons 
when thev make a garden order a quantity of labels. Fatal mistake ! Labels 




are for collections of plants — collections so big that you cannot remember, 
and when you cannot remember you lose the intimacy, and when you lose 
the intimacy you lose the essence of the garden. Choose a few plants for 
the mam plantings. These must be hardy, vigorous, sure to thrive whether 
it rains or shines. These plants you can buy in quantity and in large, 



Introduction xiii 

strong specimens. Each clump or group or border may be dommated 
by one kind of plant— foxgloves, hollyhocks, spireas, asters. The odd 
and unusual things you may grow as incidents, as jewelry is an incident 
to good dress. Miscellaneous mixtures are rarely satisfactory. The point 
is that the character of the home garden should be given by the plants 
that are most sure to thrive. The novelties and oddities should be subjects 
of experiment: if they fail, the garden still remains. 




■inlergreens. A good suggestion for the mass-planting or colonising of 
wild flowers 



The lawn should be the first care in any home ground. All effective 
planting has relation to this foundation. Homehkeness also depends upon 
it. Grass will grow anywhere, to be sure, but mere grass does not make a 
lawn. You must have a sod; and this sod must grow better every year. 
This means good and deep preparation of the land m the beginning, rich 
soil, fertilising each year, re-sowing and mending where the sod becomes thin. 



xiv How to Make a Flower Garden 

Usually we water our lawns too much, making the grass shallow-rooted 
and causing it to fail early. Every inducement should be made lor the 
grass roots to go down. 

In very shady places, as under trees and wide eaves, it is very difficult 
to secure a good sod. In such cases we must rely on other plants for the 
carpet-cover. Of these other plants, the best for the North is the comnion 
running myrtle, or periwinkle. Sods of this make an immediate and per- 
sistent cover. Lily-of-the-valley also makes a fairly satisfactory ground- 
cover in some places. If the soil is damp, the moneywort may be tried, 
although it sometimes becomes a pest. Take note of the ground-cover in 
all shady places that you come across. You will get suggestions. 

Put walks where they are needed — this is the universal rule ; but be 
sure they are needed. In the beginning you will think you need more 
than you actually do need. How to get the proper curve ? Perhaps you do 
not need a curve. There are two fLxed points in every walk — the beginning 
and the ending. Some walks lack either one or the other of these pomts, 
and I have seen some that seemed to lack both. Go from one point to the 
other in the easiest and smiplest way possible. If you can throw in a gentle 
curve, vou may enhance the charm of it ; and you may not. Directness 
and convenience should never be sacrificed for mere looks— for "looks" 
has no reason for being unless it is related to something. 

For main walks that are much used, cement and stone flagging are 
good materials, because they are durable, and they keep down the weeds. 
There is no trouble in making a durable cement or "artificial stone" walk 
in the northern climates if the underdrainage is good and the cement is 
"rich. " For informal walks, the natural loam may be good ; or sharp gravel 
that will pack ; or cniders ; or tan-bark. For very narrow walks or trails 
in the back yard I like to sink a ten-inch-wide plank to the level of the 
sod. It marks the direction, allows you dry passage, the lawn-mower 
passes over it, and it wall last for several years with no care whatever. In 
flower gardens, a strip of sod may be left as a walk; but the "disadvantage 
of it is that it retains dews and the water of rainfall too long. Some of the 
most delightful periods for viewing the garden are the early morning and 
the "cleanng spell" after a shower. 

There should be no fence unless there is a reason for it. Some persons 
seem to want fences just for the purpose of having them. Of themselves, open 
fences are rarely ornamental or desirable. They are expensive property. 




The Japanese Iris (Iris laevigata, but commonly known as I. Kaempferi), now grown in many forms and always useful 



Introduction 



The money put into a fence will often buy enough plants to stock the place. 
Front fences, in particular, are rarely desirable. The street and the walk 
sufficiently define the place. Now and then a person wants a front fence 
to gi\'e his place pri\-acy. This may be a perfectly legitimate desire, but 
the requirements are usually best satisfied by means of a low and substantial 
wall. A fence means protection. A wall may mean seclusion ; and it 
may easily be made a part of the architectural features of the place. 




Walls usually work well into the planting designs of a home ground, but 
the instances where fences do this are exceedingly rare. 

Eyen in the back yard a wall may be preferable to a fence, but pecuniary 
considerations may determine for a fence; and, moreoyer, a real fence is 
more in keeping in a rear yard, for that yard is usually most in danger of 



XVlll 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



molestation. In the back yard, the fence may become also a screen and 
a shelter. Usually it can be covered with vines — sometimes with grape- 
vines — to advantage, or be "planted out" with bushes and trees. It is 
good practice to allow the fence to obtrude itself as little as possible. 

As a whole, the garden is maintained for its general effect. It is a part 
of an establishment, of which the residence, the bam, and the boundaries 




Introduction 



are other parts. But 
the garden should 
also have certain 
parts that are for 
distinct or particular 
service, that should 
be to the general 
garden what pantries 
and bedrooms and 
closets are to the 
house. These garden- 
rooms are for vege- 
tables or flowers or 
fruits or sweet herbs. 
These things are 
grown for use in the 
family, not for their 
effect as a part of a 
garden picture. They 
can be grown best in 
special areas set aside 
for this particular 
purpose, where the 
soil can be regularly 
tilled and each plant 
given full room and 
conditions to develop 
to its best. This is 
as true of flowers as 
it is of beets or straw- 
berries. The fact 
that we grow flowers 
also as a part of the 
garden picture should 
not obscure the fact 
that we also grow 
them for cutting and 




xxii How to Make a Flower Garden 

for decoration and exhibition. When China asters are wanted because 
they are China asters, grow them where and how China asters thrive best ; 
if they are wanted as a part of the general garden effect, grow them where 
and how this effect can be best secured. .. .^. 

The place for the service garden is at one side or the rear — preferably 
m the back yard. Grow the things in rows. 

Give the children an opportunity to make a garden. Let them grow 
what they will. Let them experiment. It matters less that they produce 
good plants than that they try for themselves. A place should be reserved. 
Let it be well out of sight, for the results may not be ornamental. How- 
ever, take care that the conditions are good for the growing of plants — 
good soil, plenty of sun, freedom from the encroachments of tree-roots and 
from molestation of carriage-drive or chickens. It may be well to set the 
area off by a high fence of chicken-wire screen ; then cover the fence with 
vines. Put a seat in the enclosure. This will constitute an outdoor nursery 
room ; and while the child is being entertained and is gaining health he 
may gam experience and nature-sympathy at the same time. 

There are two kinds of interest in plants — the interest in the plant 
itself for its own sake, and the interest in plants as part of a mass, or as 
elements in a picture. The former is primarily the interest of the plant- 
lover or the botanist; the latter is the interest of the artist. Fortunately, 
many persons have both these elements highly developed, and every person 
can train himself to appreciate both points of view. Xow, a home ground 
is one thing. It is, or should be, homogeneous in its composition. It 
should appeal to one as a unit: the entire place should produce one eft'ect. 
This effect may be that of rest or retreat or seclusion or homelikeness. In 
order to produce this harmony, plants must be placed with relation to each 
other and to the general design of the place. The ability to do this kind 
of planting is one of the attributes of a good landscape gardener. He 
produces good "eft'ects" and harmonies. He thinks less of plants as mere 
plants than he does as parts of a composition. He sees them much as a 
painter does. All this is contrary to the general conception of planting. 
Most persons, I fear, think of a plant only as a plant, and are content when 
it is planted. But merely to plant a plant may have little merit in the 
home grounds: robins and squirrels do that much. 



HOW TO MAKE A FLOWER GARDEN 



HOW TO MAKE A FLOWER GARDEN 



CHAPTER I. ANNUALS 

I. The Best Kinds and How to Grow Them 

By L. H. Bailey 




A' 



*-fV : 



NNUAL plants are those that you must 
sow every year. From seed to seed is 
only a year or less. Annual plants 
probably comprise half the flowering plants of 
the world. They quickly take advantage of the 
moving seasons — grow, blossom, and die before 
they are caught by the blight of winter or of 
the parching dry season. They are shifty 
plants, now growing here, then absconding to 
other places. This very uncertainty and capri- 
ciousness makes them worth the while. The 
■ ■' '---t-J-*- -^ - staid perennials I want for the main and per- 
manent effects in my garden, but I could no 

more do without annuals than I could do without the spices and the condi- 
ments at the table. They are flowers of a season : I like flowers of a season. 
Of the kinds of annuals there 

is almost no end This does not 

mean that all are equally good. 

For myself, I like to make the 

bold effects with a few of the old 

profuse and reliable kinds. I like 

whole masses and clouds of them 

Then the other kinds I like to grow 

in smaller areas at one side, m a 

half -experimental way. There is 

no need of trying to grow equal 

quantities of all the kinds that you 




^ How to Make a Flower Garden 

select. There is no emphasis and no modulation in such a scheme. There 
should be major and minor keys. 

The minor keys may be of almost any kind of plant. Since these plants 
■are semi-experimental, it does not matter if some of them fail outright. 
Why not begin the list at A and buy as many as you can afford and can 
.accommodate this year, then continue the list next year? In five or ten 
years you will have grown the alphabet, and will ha\-e learned as much 
horticulture and botany as most persons learn in a college course. And 
.some of these plants will become your permanent friends. 

For the main and bold effects I want something that I can depend on. 
There I do not want to experiment. Ne\'er fill a conspicuous place with a 
kind of plant that you have never grown. 

The kinds I like best are the ones easiest to grow. My personal equation, 
I suppose, determines this. Zinnia, petunia, marigold, four-o'clock, sun- 
flower, phlox, scabiosa, sweet sultan, bachelor's-button, verbena, calendula, 
■calliopsis, morning-glory, nasturtium, sweet pea — these are some of the 
kinds that are surest, and least attacked by bugs and fungi. I do not 
know where the investment of five cents will bring as great reward as in a 
packet of seeds of any of these plants. 

Before one sets out to grow these or any other plants he must make for 
himself an ideal. Will he grow for a garden effect, or for specimen plants or 
■specimen blooms? If for specimens, then each plant must have plenty of 
room and receive particular individual care. If for garden effect, then see 
to it that the entire space is solidly covered, and that you have a con- 
tinuous blaze of colour. Usually the specimen plants would best be grown 
in a side garden, as vegetables are, where they can be tilled, trained, and 
severally cared for. 

There is really a third ideal, and I hope that some of you may try it — 
to grow all the varieties of one species. You really do not know what the 
China aster or the balsam is until you have seen all the kinds of it. Suppose 
that you ask your seedsman to send you one packet of every variety of 
■cockscomb that he has. Next year you may want to try stocks or annual 
poppies, or something else. All this will be a study in evolution. 

There is still a fourth ideal — the growing for gathering or "picking." 
If you want many flowers for house decoration and to give away, then grow 
them at one side in regular rows as you would potatoes or sweet corn. Culti- 
vate them by horse- or wheel-hoe. Harvest them in the same spirit that 




Zinnias— always easy to grow and generous of colo 



Annuals 



you would harvest string beans or tomatoes; that is what they are for. 
You do not have to consider the "looks" of your garden. You will not be 
afraid to pick them. The old stalks will remain, as the stumps of cabbages 
do. When you have harvested an armful your garden is not despoiled. 

I like each plant in its season, China aster is a fall flower. In early 
summer I want pansies or candytufts and other early or quick bloomers 
For the small amateur 
garden, greenhouses and 
hotbeds are unneces- 
sary, and they are usu- 
ally in the way. There 
are enough kinds of an- 
nuals that may be sown 
directly in the open 
ground, even in New 
York, to fill any garden. 
All those I have men- 
tioned are such. In 
general, I should not 
try to secure unusually 
early effects in any kind 
of plant by starting it 
extra early. I should 
get early effects with 
kinds of plants that 
naturally are early. 
Let everything have 
its season. Do not try 
to telescope the months. 

You can sow the 
seeds of most annuals 
even in May, I have 
sown China asters in 
the open ground in 
early June in New York 
State and have had 
excellent fall bloom. 




How to Make a Flower Garden 




Things come up 
quickly and grow rap- 
idly in May and June. 
They hurry. Don't 
expect to get spring 
bloom from annuals, 
but rather from per- 
ennials — t h e spring 
bulbs, soft bleeding- 
hearts, spicy pinks, 
bright-eyed polyan- 
thuses, and twenty 
more. 

Make the soil rich 
fine and soft and 
and deep. There are 
some plants for which 
the soil can be made 
too rich, of course, 
but most persons do 
not err in this direc- 
tion. For sweet peas 



Annuals 



there is this danger, for these are nitrogen gatherers, and the addition of 
nitrogenous manures makes them run too much to vine. The finer and 
more broken down the manure the better. Spade it in. Mix it thoroughly 
with the soil. If the soil is clay-like, see that fine manure is thoroughly 
mixed with the surface layer to prevent "baking." 

Watering is an exacting labor, and yet half of it is usually unnecessary. 
The reasons why it is unnecessary are two : the soil is so shallowly prepared 
that the roots do not strike deep enough ; we waste the moisture by allowing 
the soil to become hard, thereby setting up capillary connection with the 
atmosphere and letting the water escape. See how moist the soil is in spring. 
Mulch it so that the moisture will not evaporate. Mulch it with a garden 
rake by keeping the soil loose and dry on top. This loose, dry soil is the 
mulch. There will be moisture underneath. Save water rather than add 
it. Then when you do have to water the plants, go at it as if you meant it. 
Do not dribble and piddle. Wet the soil clear through. Wet it at dusk or in 
cloudy weather. Before the hot sun strikes it, renew your mulch, or supply 
a mulch of fine litter. As many plants arc spoiled by sprinkling as by drought. 
Bear in mind that watering is only a 
special practice; the general prac- 
tice is so to fit and maintain the 
ground that the plants will not 
need watering. 

The less your space the fewer 
the kinds you should plant. Have 
enough of each kind to be worth 
the while and the effort. It is as 
much trouble to raise one plant 
as a dozen. 

It is usually best not to try to 
make formal "designs" with an- 
nuals. Such designs are special 
things, anyway, and should be used 
sparingly, and be made only by per- 
sons who are skilled in such work. 
A poor or unsuccessful design is the 
sorriest failure that a garden can 
have. Grow the plants for them- 




lo How to Make a Flower Garden 

selves — pinks because they are pinks, alyssum because it is alyssum, not 
because they may form a part of some impossible harp or angel. 

This brings up a discussion of the proper place to put the annuals. Do 
not put them in the lawn: you want grass there, and grass and annuals do 
not thrive well together. Supposing that you grow the annuals for garden 
effect, there are two ways of disposing them — to grow in beds or in borders. 
Sometimes one method is better and sometimes the other. The border 
method is the more informal, and therefore the simpler and easier, and its 
pictorial effect is usually greater, but in some places there are no boundary 
lines that can be used for borders. Then beds may be used ; but make the 
beds so large and fill them so full that they will not appear to be mere play- 
])atches. Long beds are usually best. Four or five feet wide is about the 
limit of ease in working in them. The more elaborate the shape of the bed, 
the more time you will consume in keeping the geometry straight and the 
less on having fun with the plants. Long points that run oft" into the grass — 
as the points of a star — are particularly worrisome, for the grass-roots lock 
hands underneath and grab the food and moisture. A rectangular shape is 
best if you are intent only on growing flowers. Of course, if your heart is 
set on having a star on the lawn, you should have it; but you would better 
fill it with coloured gravel. 

It is surprising how many things one can grow in an old fence. The 
four-o'clocks shown on page 17 illustrate this point. Most persons owning 
this place would think that they had no room for flowers, yet there the 
four-o'clocks are, and they take up no room. Not all annuals will thrive 
under such conditions of partial neglect. The large-seeded, quick-germinating, 
rapid-growing kinds will do best. Sunflower, sweet pea, morning-glory, 
Japanese hop, zinnia, big mangold and amaranths are some of the kinds that 
may be expected to hold their own. If the effort is made to grow plants in 
such places, it is important to give them all the advantage possible early in the 
season, so that they will get well ahead of grass and weeds. Spade up the 
ground all you can. Add a little quick-acting fertiliser. It is best to start 
the plants in pots or small boxes, so that they will be in advance of the weeds 
when they are set out. 

First and last, I have grown practically every annual offered in the 
American trade. It is surprising how few of the uncommon or little-known 
sorts really have great merit for general purposes. There is nothing yet to 
take the place of the oldtime groups, such as amaranths, zinnias, calendulas, 




The California poppy— Eschscholtzia CaiifornJca 



Annuals 



13 



daturas, balsams, annual pinks, candytufts, bachelor's-buttons, wallflowers, 
gilias, larkspurs, petunias, gaillardias, snapdragons, cockscombs, lobelias, 
coreopsis or calliopsis, California poppies, four-o'clocks, sweet sultans, phloxes, 
mignonettes, scabiosas, dwarf nasturtiums, marigolds, China asters, salpiglossis, 
nicotianas, pansies, portulacas, castor beans, poppies, sunflowers, verbenas, 
stocks, alyssums, and such good old running plants as scarlet runners, sweet 
peas, convolvuluses, ipomeas, nasturtiums, balloon vines and cobeas. Of 
the annual vines of recent introduction, the Japanese hop has at once 
taken a prominent place for the co\-ering of fences and arbors, although 
it has no floral beauty to recommend it. 

For bold mass-displays of colour in the rear nf the t^M'ounds or along 
the borders, some of 
the coarser species 
are desirable. My 
own favourites for 
such use are sun- 
flower, castor bean, 
and striped Japanese 
corn for the back 
rows ; zinnias for 
bright effects in the 
scarlets and lilacs ; 
African marigolds for 
brilliant yellows ; nic- 
otianas for whites. 
Unfortun a t e 1 y, we 
have no robust- 
growing annuals with 
good blues. Some 
of the larkspurs are 
perhaps the nearest 
approach to it. 

For lower-grow- 
ing and less gross 
m a s s-displays the 
following are good : 

California poppies for Homed popp> (Claucmm luleumt. Sometin 




14 How to Make a Flower Garden 

oranges and yellows ; sweet sultans for purples, whites and pale yellows ; 
petunias for purples, violets and whites; larkspurs for b'ues and violets; 
bachelor's-buttons (or cornflowers) for blues; calliopsis and coreopsis and 
calendulas for yellows ; gaillardias for red-yellows ; China asters for many 
colors except yellow. 

For still less robustness, good mass-displays can be made with the 
following : Alyssums and candytufts for whites ; phloxes for whites and 
various pinks and reds ; lobelias and browallias for blues ; pinks for whites 
and various shades of pink ; stocks for whites and reds and dull blue: ; 
wallflowers for brown-yellows ; verbenas for many colours. 

Some of the common annuals do not lend themselves well to mass- 
displays. They are of interest because of peculiar foliage, odd or unusual 
flowers, special uses, and the like. Of such are portulacas (for hot, sunny 
places), balsams, cockscombs, poppies (the blooming period is short), pansies, 
dwarf convolvuluses and dwarf nasturtiums, snapdragons, amaranths, 
four-o'clocks, mignonettes, alonsoas, schizanthus, nolanas, argemone, horned 
poppy, and many others. 

I should never consider a garden of pleasant annual flowers to be complete 
that did not contain some of the "everlastings," or immortelles. These 
"paper flowers" are always interesting to children. I do not care for them 
for the making of "dry bouquets," but for their iiiterest as a part of 
a garden. The colours are bright, the blooms hold long on the plant, 
and most of the kinds are very easy to grow. My favourite groups 
ars the different kinds of xeranthemums and helichrysums. The gom- 
phrenas, with clover-like heads (sometimes known as bachelor's-buttons), 
are good old favourites. Rhodanthes and ammobiums are also good. 

Among the ornamental annual grasses, I have had most satisfaction 
with the brizas, coix or Job's tears, and some of the species of agrostis 
and eragrostis. 

Some of the perennials and biennials can be treated as annuals if they 
are started very early indoors. A number of the very late-flowering annuals 
should also be started indoors for best success in the northern States, as, for 
example, the moonflowers and the tall-growing kinds of cosmos. 

If flowers of any annual are wanted extra early, the seeds should be 
started indoors. It is not necessary to have a greenhouse for this purpose, 
although best results are to be expected with such a building. The seeds 
may be sown rn boxes, and these boxes then placed in a sheltered position 



Annuals 



15 



on the warm side of a building. At night they can be covered with boards 
or matting. In very cold "spells" the boxes should be brought inside. In 
this simple way seeds may 
often be started one to three 
weeks ahead of the time 
when they can be sown in 
the open garden. Moreover, 
the plants are likely to re- 
ceive better care in these 
boxes, and therefore to grow 
more rapidly. Of course, if 
still earlier results are de- 
sired, the seeds should be 
sown in the kitchen, hotbed, 
coldframe, or in a green- 
house if accessible. 

In starting plants ahead 
of the season, be careful not 
to use too deep boxes. The 
gardener's "flat" may be 
taken as a suggestion. Three 
inches of earth is sufficient, 
and in some cases (as when 
the plants are started late) 
half this depth is enough. 

Of late years there has 
been a strong movement to 
introduce the hardy peren- 
nials into general cultiva- 
tion. This is certainly to 
be encouraged everywhere, 
since it adds a feeling of 
permanency and purpose- 
fulness that is needed in 
American gardens. Yet I """'"" """^ ^''""""^ "*""'"' 

should be sorry if this movement were to obscure the importance 
of the annuals. We need this colour and variety. 




i6 How to Make a Flower Garden 

How TO Get Early Flowers 
By Sarah Hopkins 

Several years ago I found myself too much of an invalid to be out in 
the garden sowing seeds, and with no one at my service who, in my opinion, 
could be trusted to do it for me. A summer without flowers was too dreary 
a prospect to be contemplated. This was long before I had learned the 
value of hardy perennials, and depended almost wholly upon annuals for 
flowers. Necessity thus set me to inventing, and I had my garden of 
flowers after all. 

1 secured a half-dozen wooden boxes about the size of common soap- 
boxes and had them sawed so that they were each four inches deep. These 
boxes were so small that when filled with soil they could be easily lifted 
about. I had the boxes filled with soil from the garden; and now imagine 
my comfort as I sat at a table sowing my seeds ! There were no cramped 
limbs and aching back, as was usually the case when I had sowed my 
seeds in the seed-bed. 

I find by consulting my "notes" of that year that I sowed the seeds 
April gtli. They came up quickly and far more satisfactorily than seeds 
sown in the garden. But to say that this first attempt to grow seedlings of 
annuals in the house was a perfect success would not be exact truth. Never- 
theless, I had that year as fine a display of annuals as I ever had when the 
seeds were sown in the garden, in spite of the fact that the weather did not 
get warm enough for it to be prudent for an invalid to sit on the ground to 
transplant them until between June gth and June i6th. Although this 
late transplanting was exceedingly harmful to their growth, they began to 
come into bloom the first of July. 

I was so well satisfied with the experiment that I have repeated it every 
year since. The method has merits sufficient to recommend it to any one 
who does not have a hotbed to grow seedlings in. It is so late when seeds 
can be sown in the garden up here in Maine that by the time annuals grown 
in this way come into full bloom they are killed by frosts. 

Instead of giving the details of my first experiment, I will give my 
method of later years, which will be of more value from having been 
perfected through past mistakes. I have studied to avoid all unnecessary 
work, and a plant-table lined with zinc has proved a great saving of labour, 



Annuals 



19 



as the seeds and seedlings may be watered without being carried to the sink 
and without any drip upon the floor. A plant-table four feet long and two 
and one-half feet wide would afford suflicient capacity for growing seedlings 
enough to fill two hundred square feet of beds. Tables or rough boxes are 
rather unsightly objects, and I keep them in the kitchen until the weather 
will permit keeping them in a more out-of-the-way place. 

I find that the time the seeds should be sown depends upon the time the 
seedlings can be transplanted to the garden. If one's health will permit the 
transplanting of seedlings as early as it would be warm enough for them, 
about April 6th would be the right time for sowing in New England; 
an earlier date would not be at all advisable. My experience has shown me 
that five weeks from the time of sowing the seeds is as long as the seedlings 
can be kept in the boxes without injury ; the roots fill the soil, their growth 
is stopped and they become stunted, 
never making the fine plants they 
would had they been transplanted 
at the proper time. 

I use soil just as it is taken 
from the garden, as the addition 
of fertiliser causes an unhealthy 
growth. I aim for a slow, sturdy 
growth. The soil is heated very 
hot in the oven to kill the weed 
seeds. The first year I failed to do 
this, and found weed-pulHng made too much of an upheaval among seeds 
and tiny plants. I sow the seeds in rows an inch and a half apart, and 
three-fotirths of an inch apart in the row to allow for some of the seeds 
failing to germinate. When I am sure that the last seed that will grow has 
made its appearance above ground, I thin the seedlings out to an inch and 
a half in the row. I find it necessary to allow this space, as the plants 
soon become crowded with less, and thinning them out then will disturb the 
roots of those which are to remain. 

When the seeds are sown I place the table in a sunny window and give 
the earth the treatment required as regards light and sunshine, that it 
may be ready for them the moment they break through the earth. I keep 
them as close to the glass as possible, and roll the shades high. The first 
year I thought this unimportant when the seeds were coming up, and before 




^^<-. 



A sweet pea garden near Springfield, Mass. 



20 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



I knew it some of them were shooting up in the air more than an inch, though 
still encased in the seed-shells, and by the time the seed-lobes were freed 
they were carried an inch and a half high. Since then I give all the light 
and sunshine possible from the moment I discover the first seed breaking 
the soil, and thus keep the seed-lobes as close to the soil as possible. An 
abundance of sunshine and strong light is a necessity, for without these the 
seedlings become long-drawn and leggy and have no strength to stand upright. 
In a mild spring I find it advisable to remove the seedlings to a room 
where there is no artificial heat, as the two greatest drawbacks to growing 
annuals in the house are excessive heat and shade. I soon begin to give 
them air durmg the warmest part of the day by opening the windows or 
setting them in an open door where the sun will shine upon them. After 
a short time I set them on a sunny piazza — any sheltered place would do — 
during the middle of the day, then soon put them out in the morning, taking 
them in at night. As soon as all danger of freezing is past I let them remain 
out day and night, only taking them m from beating rain. The plants are 
not properly hardened off ready for transplanting until they have had full 
exposure to wind and sun ; and they should be set by the beds where they 
are to be planted out a few days previous to taking them out of the boxes. 
In starting any kind of plants from seed indoors in early spring it is 
important to have the seed-boxes in a handy place where one cannot help 
seeing them many times a day. If a seed-box is put out doors on the porch, 
the soil will dry out before you realise it and the tender seedlings will be 
checked or ruined. It is very fascinating to watch the growth of seedlings. 
In growing annual flowers I always get the best results from sowing 
seeds in boxes indoors about fifty days before the soil outside is in perfect 
condition, and for this purpose I use a plant-table, 
which is a great convenience. It is a home-made 
affair which any one can duplicate at a small expense 
and which will soon prove to be an indispensable 
convenience. Plants can be watered on such a table 
with no drip upon the carpet, and if sand is filled 
m around the pots and kept moist it will be found 
an excellent way of supplying that moisture to the 
air which plants must have in order to flourish. 
The most valuable as well as essential feature of the plant-table is a 
zinc-lined false top. Almost any stout table of suitable size will do as 




A plant-table for holding boxes 
of seedlings 



Annuals 21 

a basis, but in this case an old-fashioned "lamp stand" was used that 
we happened to have in the attic. 

My husband, who makes no pretense to being a carpenter, fitted a 
large top to this stand which can be removed by simply lifting it up. For 
material he used what he could pick up about the place, which happened 
to be a spruce board an inch thick and a basswood board one-half inch thick. 
He sawed the spruce board into pieces three feet four and a half inches long. 
These he placed side by side with the planed side up, and they measured, 
as thus placed together, two feet and one-half inch across; then he 
secured them in place by nailing a cleat half an 
inch thick and one foot nine inches long and two 
inches wide at each end. These cleats were 
nailed at equal distances from the ends and two 
feet and eight inches apart, measuring from the 
inner side of each cleat. The cleats were nailed 
on the side to be placed down upon the top of ""''" ''"'' "' ""' '°"- ^'""'''"^ "'"'' 
the stand, and being put the same distance apart as the top of the 
stand was long, the top of the stand would thus fit in closely between 
them, giving no chance for the false top to move back and forth 
lengthwise. A narrow cleat about four inches long was nailed at each 
side of the false top the same distance apart as the real top of the stand 
was wide, and thus the false top was held from moving about either way. 
These cleats at the ends and sides of the false top were placed close enough 
together so that, when it was placed in position, it was neces- 
sary to exert a little strength in order to force it completely 
down upon the top of the stand, and it was thus held 
so firmly in position that it could never become displaced. 
Around the edge of the false top strips of the half-inch basswood three 
inches wide were nailed. These strips were placed below the inch board of 
the false top one-half inch, to hide from \-iew the top of the stand. This 
made the false top boxlike, an inch and a half deep measuring from the 
mside. The bottom and sides of this were lined with zinc, which we did our- 
selves, the zinc costing from forty to sixty cents. It was somewhat difficult 
to fold the zinc at the corners without breaking it, as was necessary to 
make it water-tight. An easier way, and one that would have made nicer 
work, would have been to cut an inch and a half square from each 
comer, and then solder the edges together to make the corners tight. 




22 How to Make a Flower Garden 

The zinc was tacked along the edge at the top of the basswood sides 
with large tacks. 

The stand and the basswood sides of the false top were treated with 
a coat of walnut stain and varnish, and as the legs and rod of the 
stand were quite prettily turned, my plant-table made a very fair appear- 
ance in the sitting-room. 




Madia elegans, yellow, with a brown eye. The flowers close in the sunshine, but open in the morning and evening 




CHAPTER II. PERENNIALS 

I. Some Lessons from the Pan-American Exposition 

By L. H. Bailey 

N HERB is a plant that dies to the ground in winter, and a 
border is a strip of planting skirting the boundaries of a 
place or lying along the walks or drives. We grow herbs 
because we like them. We make borders of them because 
they look better in such places, are more easily cared 
for, and are not under foot. A pig\veed in the middle of the lawn is 
lonesome and a nuisance ; or if we pull it up we have nothing to put 
in the hole. A pigweed in the border is happy and attractive; or if we do 
not like it and pull it up, there are other plants of its height and size to take 
its place. Anybody can make a border. It is a simple matter. But just 
because it is so simple and easy, there are few men who make attractive 
C)nes. Some of the best that we have had the privilege of seeing were on 
the Pan-American grounds. Probably few of the visitors to the exposition 
made more than a casual note of the herbaceous planting at the south end 
of the grounds, or thought of the care that had been expended there. Twenty 
acres were devoted to these beds. There were fifty exhibitors and more than 
two hundred plats. The difficulties are great in such plantings as these. The 
land is newly prepared. The time is short. There are few plants of a great 
many kinds. Each plant is to be an exhibit, and must therefore have 
opportunity to display itself. Exhibition planting is difficult to manage 
in an artistic way. If each plant is isolated, the mass-effect is lost and 
the plantation is likelv to be a mere nursery. 

The two pictures shown on pages 27 and 31 illustrate bold and artistic 
effects produced with exhibition plants, and there were many other examples 
as good as these on the exposition grounds. These plantings were the work 
of William Scott, Superintendent of Floriculture, and a florist of Buffalo. 
Mr. Scott has been known chiefly as a florist. We shall now think of him 
also as a gardener — in the broader sense — and as an artist :'n dealing with 
plants He had the great advantage of knowing how to grow the things. 

25 



26 How to Make a Flower Garden 

We often seem to lose sight of the importance of such knowledge. It is 
knowledge that it is troublesome not to have. 

Fourteen months before these things were planted the land had been 
only roughly graded. New soil had to be carted on, the final grading and 
levelling done, and the sod established. The home-maker, with good soil 
and established lawn, should be able to do at least as well. 

It is well to plan in the fall for the spring planting. Things always 
go slower than we expect. Spring will soon be here. If the ground is not 
yet frozen the earth can be spaded or plowed. Let it lie loose and open: 
the frost will pulverise it. Weathering is sometimes an efficient means 
of tilling. Unless the land is already rich, and contains much vegetable 
matter or humus, it is well to turn under manure when you prepare the land 
this winter. This manure may be very useful in preventing hard clay soils 
from cementing by the action of frost and rain as well as in affording plant- 
food. Even in some of the northern States hardy bushes may be planted 
in December, but it is usually better to wait until spring. Large specimens 
are often moved in the dead of winter because heavy balls of earth can be 
taken with them. Read the catalogues, and be ready to order your plants 
before the spring begins. 

II. How TO Make a Border 
By F. W. Barclay 

Plant thickly enough to form eventually a mass of foliage sufficiently 
dense to completely hide the ground. Scattered plants about a newly raked 
bed may look neat, but so would perfect rows of painted stakes. 
Neatness can be more perfectly attained by the close grouping of plants 
of similar foliage. Too great a mixture of leaf-forms and colours often 
gives a tangled and untidy effect. The aim is the happy medium between 
the sameness of a too large group of one species and the careless mixture 
of many species. Make the groups decided enough to be called groups in 
comparison with the area of the planting, but let them be irregular and blend 
into the surrounding groupings with pleas ng contrasts. 

A very effective way of planting, especially where the border is long, 
is to use a large quantity of a few kinds of plants which follow each other in 
bloom through the season, and to plant the whole border in small groups, 



Perennials 



29 



so that at one time the entire border appears attractive with flowers of one 
kind and of one or perhaps two colours, to be followed by a flower of another 
colour. This method changes the colour eft'ect of the whole border almost 
every week, but it of course cannot give the eft'ect of a solid mass of flowers, 
as would be the case if the same list were planted, each kind in a plot by itself. 
A list for this purpose to follow each other quite closely through the summer 
might be: Yellow daffodils, purple German iris, rose and white peonies, 
scarlet Oriental poppies, Japanese iris (white, with pencillings of colour), 
yellow day-lilies, monardas (red 1 i>ii1"v (wlntp, ..r ne,n-lv ^m, rndbt'cki.MS 
(yellow), purple New England ^ 
aster, and hardy pompon 
chrysanthemum (pink and 
white). If a larger list, with 
plants of several colours ap- 
pearing at the same season is 
used, the eft'ect is- entirely dif- 
ferent, and care will be needed 
to obtain the more pleasing 
contrasts of colour. 

The preparation of the 
beds for perennials should be 
very thorough, especially as 
the soil cannot be deeply dug 
or greatly enriched afterward. 
If the subsoil does not provide 
sufficient drainage to prevent 
water staying on the surface 
of the ground or the soil from becoming excessively wet during the 
rainier seasons, then under-drainage to a depth of at least two and a 
half feet will be necessary. 

A first-class perennial bed, suited to sustain a large variety of plants 
in vigorous growth, should ha\-e the ground made loose to a depth of two 
feet. It would be best to have the entire two feet made up of surface soil, 
but it is not necessary. A satisfactory method is to throw oft' the surface 
soil and then dig over the subsoil and mix with it a fair amount of manure, 
bone and wood ashes. If the soil is clayey or sour there is nothing better 
than screened coal ashes to make its condition satisfactory. An application 




old time garden favourite, which comes up 
1 a rush in early spring 



30 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



two inches deep to a foot of soil will loosen a stiff clay, and it will stay loose. 
Sand will answer to the same end, but not as well. 

The top soil should, if possible, be a good loam, and be at least one foot 
deep. It should be well enriched with well-rotted manure, bone and wood 
ashes, or other mineral fertilisers, and put in a finely pulverised condition. 
The growth of vegetation cannot be vigorous without a deep, rich, well- 
drained soil. Keep the surface soil rich, and do not get part of the subsoil 
mixed with it, as manv of the garden plants are shallow-rooted and need 







■ ■ ',r-if** ' '■ ' ( 1 i. lJuHb.^ ■^^'''^i' r '^"'' ' '■ ' *vifr^'»- ';-^* ^ l'^^..' ''."^^"^•^(t jg - 


S'-- 







An example of companion crops in floriculture — peonies and Lilium superbum 

a very mellow soil ; and further, a good friable surface is needed to allow 
the growth of annuals and small plants, especially those raised from seed. 
A good depth of soil gives a lower feeding-room for the strong-rooted plants, 
and allows the growth of more shallow-rooted plants among them, with 
far better results than could possibly be obtained on a thin soil. 

When purchasing plants for a border, take pains to obtain good, healthy 
stock, and see that it is carefully planted as soon as received. The best 
season to transplant any particular plant is while it is yet dormant and 



Perennials 



33 



just before its roots start to grow. Plants in general, and early flowering 
ones in particular, make considerable root growth in the fall. A good rule 
to follow is : Plant in the early fall those species that blossom before July, 
and in the spring those that bloom later in the year. 

If it seems best to make the planting all at one time, then early fall 
will perhaps be the best season for the greatest number. Fall planting 
should be early, so that the plants can become established in the soil 
before freezing weather. It is of course quite possible to move plants 
at any season, but more care must be used. 

A well-drained, deep soil under the plants is the first and best protection. 
Too much water in the soil and too weak a root system, with the alternate 
freezing and thawing, 
are the main reasons 
for the winter-killing of 
otherwise hardy plants. 
If the beds are given a 
dressing of short 
manure in the fall, just 
sufficient to co\-er the 
earth without smother- 
ing the crowns of the 
plants, it will prevent 
the too quick freezing 
and thawing. 

Plants that are 
really tender to cold 
must be mulched to 
keep the frost from the 
roots. This can be 
accomplished with anv 
material, such as straw, 
leaves, etc., that is open 
enough to form interior 
air spaces and so be a 
poor conductor of cold 
It is well to place thl^ 
material in heaps over 




34 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



the crowns of the plants so as to at least partly shed the rain. The soil 
must be extremely dry to injure an established dormant plant, but 
it can easily be too wet. 

When, after a few years, the border becomes too thick or the clumps 




too large to give satisfactory flowers, some remo^•al of plants and division 
of roots will be necessary. In general, do not separate the clumps until 
they show very plainly that they need it. The best season to divide any 
plant is the same as the best time to plant it, which is just before its roots 
start to grow. 

It may sometimes be best to water the border during severe drought. 
Do it this way, or do not do it at all: Give to each square foot of the bed a 
two-inch covering of water as fast as the soil will take it up. The contmual 
application of a little water not only hinders the rise of water from the 
sub-soil, but tends to bring the roots to the moister surface, and so not only 
crowds them into a smaller feeding space, but makes the plants less able 
to endure the next drought, and less hardy for the winter. 




















/^r<^£ 






t^ 



'm 












W' 



The tulip-poppy (Hunnemannia). a Mexican plan, allied <o the California poppy 



36 How to Make a Flower Garden 

III. Hardy Perennials froim Seed 
By Mrs. Mattie L. Knight 

Two 3'ears ago, in the spring, I had a plot of ground running parallel 
with a fence plowed for a hardy border. It was dressed with barnyard 
manure, and harrowed and worked occasionally, so that last summer the 
ground was in excellent condition to receive the plants. I knew that to 
fill any border with such plants as I desired would cost seven or eight 
dollars (since divided plants from the nursery cost from fifteen to twenty- 
five cents each), while I found by consulting the catalogue that I could 
procure a packet of seeds of nearly all the sorts I most wanted for less 
than a dollar, including some good novelties. 

1 had grown greenhouse plants from seed, and knew that hardy peren- 
nials would be less difficult. So I procured the seed by May 24th, after 
the more urgent work in the garden had been done, and sowed them in 
shallow boxes, in rows an inch and a half apart and the same distance apart 
in the row, dropping them in singly. They were covered with soil to a depth 
of twice their diameter, and pressed down firmly. The top of the soil was 
moistened by applying the water with a whiskbroom ; after this the soil 
was wet thoroughly two or three times in the same way, until it settled, and 
then the water was turned on carefully from a dipper. 

The boxes were on a sunny piazza, and the soil was carefully watched 
that it might not become more than slightly dry. The seeds germinated 
well ; none of the sorts failed to grow, with the solitary exception of a packet 
of platycodon, out of which one-third of the seeds failed ; but, as it was, I 
had more plants than were needed. The seeds of a kind did not all appear 
together, some making their appearance ten days or more after the first 
ones broke the soil. The only care given the seedlings was to keep them 
from becoming excessively dry and to avoid applying water so freely as to 
keep the soil sodden. 

The young plants grew ^'igorously, and when they became crowded 
were transplanted to temporary beds in the garden, which had been previously 
devoted to annuals, as these beds were more suitable than newly spaded 
greensward, being light and mellow, yet only moderatel}' rich. The plants 
were set about eight inches apart, so that they would have sufficient room until 
they were to be permanently planted in September. 




The nollyhoct -s biennia;, bu 



Double hollyhocks in a border of perennials 
; usuaiEy treated as a perennial, as it renews itself regularly from seed with a minimum of i 



Perennials 39 

The experiment was so satisfactory that I do not hesitate to recommend 
it. Better plants can be secured with but Httle work, for only the largest 
and most vigorous plants will furnish the required number. This alone, 
if the saving of money is not considered, would recommend the plan, except 
when one is bent upon having a particular variety of phlox, iris 
or peony, or other species having many named varieties. Surplus plants 
are available for exchange among one's neighbours, or for sale if one 
is so inclmed. 

It so happened that the year I speak of I had old plants of iris, peony, 
phlox, ranunculus and bleeding heart, all of which I was able to propagate 
by dividing the climips. I therefore bought only seven kinds of seeds: 
forget-me-nots, coreopsis, hibiscus, platycodon, ipomopsis, hardy carnation, 
and one other kind, the name of which I have forgotten. Howe\-er, some 
of the best seed catalogues give a long list of kinds that are easily raised 
from seed, and some catalogues indicate the kinds which will bloom the 
first year from seed. 

IV. Our Hardy Flowers 

By Alice M. Rathbone 

Roses, lilies, daffydowndillies, and all the rest of the loved company 
of old-fashioned flowers, we count as our very good friends. Distinguished 
friends, too, are these of the hardy border, tracing their ancestry far into 
the misty past, and they are cultured to a degree. We find them fascinating 
from the time of the early spring greetings to the autumn farewells, when 
the brave dears are made ready with snug coverings for their long rest. 
What a pretty and comforting fancy about underground plant -life in winter 
is this of George Herbert's: 

" Flowers depart to see their Mother-root when they have blown, 
Where they together, alle the hard weather, 
Dead to the world, keep house alone. " 

With the coming of March we begin to look eagerly for the snowdrop 
heralds to announce the approach of the procession. Stout of heart must 
be these delicate little heralds, that they should dare to "take the winds 
of March with beauty," like Shakespeare's stronger daffodils. Perhaps 
the remembered warmth of former welcomes helps them on. 



40 How to Make a Flower Garden 

The pleasure of one arrival is followed closely by another, until all the 
company, whose motto is "Perennial Friendship," has assembled, and the 
full delights of the season are at hand. 

Arabis and Alyssiim saxatilc soon spread upon the ground their rugs 
of white and gold. The bulbs, having made preparations through the 
winter, are able to bring forward at short notice their delightfully fresh 
and joyous show of golden-chaliced crocuses, sweet hyacinths, blue scillas, 
jonquils, and other gladsome, springtime flowers of soft and tender hues ; but 
when the tulips, bold and gay, are ready, then is the garden quite given over 
to a revel of colour. They hold up proudly their oriental goblets of richest 
hues, with a certain cavalier-like air doubtless acquired during their adven- 
tures in Holland, when thev so nearly succeeded in taking that country 
from the Dutch. 

The flash of the tulip display being over, gentle Iris comes with her 
messages from the gods to men, surrounded, while on earth, by the green 
lances of her guards. Iris certainly has most exquisite taste in dress. The 
costumes of this queenly messenger, who brings a period of repose and refine- 
ment to the border, are marvellous creations of rainbow-hued crepe, chiffon, 
plush, and rare laces, brightened by a few rich adornments of gold. The 
opalescent tints are favourites of hers, and charmingly does she use them, 
sometimes with gold lacings. Always is she a vision of loveliness. 

When the peonies follow, they seem, in their turn, to dominate the 
garden, as they spread for us a feast of colour ranging from creamy white, 
through luscious pinks, to deep, restful crimsons. What opulence of bloom 
is theirs ! The modern peony is, we hope, too truly cultured to be hurt 
by an allusion to that branch of its family known to our grandmothers as 
"piny." Quite inferior were they to the peony beauties of to-day, but very 
dear to grandmother, along with her sweet-williams, lilacs and artemisias. 
Early in the last century Jane Austen wrote from their Chawton home to 
her sister Cassandra, "Our young piony at the foot of the fir tree has just 
bloomed, and looks very handsome." It must have had then, as now, that 
excellent p'ant virtue of presenting a good appearance. All the season 
through, from its first shining, bright-red shoots until cut down by frost, 
the peony contri\'es to look neat and respectable. Not so the hollyhock, 
however, poor fellow ! He grows sadly rusty and seedy-looking before the 
summ,er is over, but he is one of the indispensables among the hardy flowers, 
nevertheless. How could we possibly get on without him ? Whether single. 




The " Golden Glow," a double form of our native Rudbeckia laciniata, one of the most successful perennials in cultivation 



Perennials 



43 



double or semi-double, or of what colour it matters little, so long as he is with 
us. In a well-ordered border they will appear in groups of separate colours, 
but in a fence comer, near a cottage door, or over a gray stone wall, how 
pretty they are with their hit-or-miss effect of colour. Groups of pure white 
hollyhocks, like groups of white foxglove, placed here and there among 
the brilliant hues around them, set off a garden wonderfully. This is true 
also of white phlox, even more useful, perhaps, because of its long-blooming 
season, which makes the 
perennial phlox of such 
\-alue in the hardy garden. 
Masses of colour can be easily 
formed with them. Lovely 
shades of pink, with wh te 
ones for next-door ne gh- 
bours and a touch of yellow 
not far away (given, perhaps, 
by hardy coreopsis or a heli- 
anthus of medium height), 
make the garden seem 'alle 
ful of freshe fioures," like the 
Squire's embroidered dress, 
n "Canterbury Tales." 

The study of colour effects 
is one of the various garden 
interests, and in work'ng out 
our schemes the oriental rule 
for harmonising strong 

colours by the use of dividing Foxgloves in a border 

lines of white, gold or black is a help, black being translated into some 
dull purplish hue for garden use. 

Nature shows her skill as an artist: 




"When daisies pied, and violets blue. 
And lady-smocks all silver white, 
And cuckoo buds of yellow hue, 

Do paint the meadows with delight." 

But the gardener likes to take colour arrangement into his own hands, 
hoping to paint the garden with delight. 



44 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



We put blue larkspurs near white lilies and fancy the border is never 
lovelier than in lily time, while the blue and the white hold sway there. 
And we find them far more interesting to ' ' live up to " than the choicest of 
blue-and-white china. Yellow, as a harmoniser, offers itself on every side. 
It is necessary to guard against an over-supply. The advent among us of the 
popular golden glow has brought much cheer into the garden world, but its 
restless energy and push fill the owner of a moderate-sized border with 




ly one hundred 



utter dismay. One can believe it would become as lavishly in evidence as 
the sunshine if it were given its own way. But there comes a time, and 
that speedily, when its advance in the border must be checked, and new 
quarters found for the adventurous oft'shoots. Forced to expedients, we 
tried hitching a row of them to the bam by means of staples driven into the 
clapboards. This does away with the tall, strong stakes these rudbeckias 
demand in the garden because of their inordinate ambition to get up, as well 
as on, in the world. Apparently, the new situation suits them, and they 




The famous Matilija 



poppy of California— Romn 

only a very few persons have 



Perennials 



47 



■^^■^ 




I^^Hl 


g^H^ 




R^^P^i 


R 


'v,H 


^H 


mi-.'. IM.. .<>".,.„.J:J 




bHmhkbIbH 



rejoice in the drip from the eaves, by which they will probably be so much 
refreshed as to feel equal to extra exertions in their march over the earth. 
They make the north side of the barn sunny with generous yellow bloom, and 
they add much to the background of 
the border. That they add too 
much is all that lessens our grati- 
tude. The strenuous life is theirs 
indeed, and their modern ways must 
greatly perplex their conservati\-e 
neighbours of the old school, who, 
with their leisurely and dignified 
bearing, make the border of old ^^ite Day-Luy (hunkia) 

perennials a restful place even when it is gay with brightest bloom. 
And we like it to be restful, for the enjoyment of those associations in 
which there is much that borders on psychological ground. Can we be sure 
that the spirits of garden-lovers do not hover over other real garden-lovers' 
gardens, wherever they may be found ? A fancy far pleasanter than that 
of the transmigration of souls through animal life would be the thought 
that those who have dearly loved certain flowers identify themselves, to 
the discerning sense, with their favourites forever. Perhaps; who knows? 
It is a bit of Celia Thaxter's vivid thought that comes to us from the poppies 

as they sway lightly in the breeze. 
And why is it that we feel such 
tender care of the low-growing 
things, the babies of the border? 
Is it not something more than plant 
life that looks up out of the blue eyes 
of the forget-me-not, the little violet 
faces, the sweet June pinks, and 
daisies ? Over these garden pets we 

bend with something of the mother- 
Hybrid DayL.ly (Hemsrocalis "Florham") iQyg^ ^Q minister to their needs. 
Of Mrs. Ewing, too, we like to think while busy among the flowers. She, too, 
was fond of gardening, as well as of her garden, believing that a close acquaint- 
ance with the flower friends can best be had with little intervention from 
the professional gardener. How much we lost when Mrs. Swing's charm- 
ing "Letters from a Little Garden" were cut short by her death! 




48 How to Make a Flower Garden 

Another garden enthusiast, Miss Mitford, tells us what a pleasure it is 
"to have a flower in a friend's garden." 

Gardens conduce to friendliness in many ways, and the exchange of 
roots, bulbs, seeds and flowers is one of them. Dear personal associations 
are rooted to the spot where grows "a flower from a friend's garden." It 
is as much of an event in the garden as m the social world when a new 
acquaintance is formed, and when a fine chrysanthemum root steps from a 
neighbour's garden into ours the campanula bells should ring for joy. We 
are fortunate in having garden campaniles that fall each autumn, only 
to rise again in the same likeness when summer comes again. Always to 
be associated with old-fashioned roses is the friend who appeared on the 
garden scene one October day with a bundle of plants in her arms. Like 
a fairy godmother seemed she when the bundle disclosed an assortment of 
roses from her own old garden, all duly labelled — damask, Scotch, 
seven sisters (a single rose which was traced back more than a century), 
"and a George the Fourth black rose, my dear, that your uncle gave me 
years ago." Happy is the garden that has a fairy godmother to bring it 
gifts like those roses ! 

Happy, too, ought to be that garden of the Nova Scotian who said she 
always meant to have thrift, honesty and abundance m her garden. Honesty 
is not often met with m gardens now, unfortunately. It is a most inter- 
esting thing to grow because of its beautiful oval seed-valves, made apparently 
of mother-of-pearl, set like an eye-glass m a delicate but firm rim. From 
the pleasure a bunch of these lustrous ornaments (one of tlie loveliest of 
Nature's devices in seed-pods) gives to elderly persons it would seem that 
it was more in favour formerly than now. 

Hardy chrysanthemums are disappearing, like honesty, from the borders, 
discouraged, possibly, by the wonderful show-flowers of the florist. But it is 
a pity to let them go, for they are among the truest of the hardy friends, 
and, with Japanese anemones, keep up the cheer ot the garden until winter 
is close upon us. There are several good ones among those still available — 
white, purest yellow, dark red, silvery pink, and all the dear little button 
kinds, mahogany-red among them. 

There is one seemingly more precious, perhaps because elusive, that 
used to grow along a fence on an old village street, and was the object of a 
yearly autumn drive. The lovely flower was a loose white ball just tinged 
with purplish pink. It vanished several years ago from that Kmderhook 



Perennials 



SI 



garden. Doubtless it flourishes elsewhere. May its shadow never grow 
less until it reveals itself again to us in its beautiful old-time splendour. 

Another neglected once-upon-a-time favourite is the Christmas rose. 
To look, on Christmas Eve, into a 
little hollow walled with snow, at its 
waxy blossoms, white, flushed with 
pink, IS like looking down at the 
Bambino in an Italian church at 
Christmastide. 

After all, there are but few 
among the dear old favourites that 
have grown out of our affections. 
Most of them have been loved down 
through the years by so many who 
have sounded their praises in poetry 
and prose that a wealth of associa- 
tion now surrounds them for those 
of whom it can be said — 




young hollyhock 



■'In books and gardens thou hast placed aright 
Thy noble, innocent delight." 

Literature has embraced the old-fashioned garden, and more and more in 
these days the garden gathers to itself an added charm from literature. 
We feel it with the primrose, the violet, and daffodil ; the wallflower, whose 
unassuming blossoms send forth Old World memories as well as their own 
delightful fragrance ; with the damty columbine, and the foxglove, whose 
flower-stalk arrangement Ruskin likens unto the various stages of life — 
infancy at the top, old age withering away below. Tennyson speaks of 
"the foxglove spire." 

Rich are we m these treasures, tor the flowers that a well-stocked hardy 
border holds may be called the classics ot the garden. 

Compared with our short span of lite, they belong to the Immortals. 

Year after year "the same dear things lift up the same fair faces," and 
we would gladly become perennial, far beyond the limit of our threescore 
years and ten, to longer enjoy our hardy flower fnends. 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



V. Scattered Planting vs. Masses 




By "M." 

The first of the accompanying illustrations shows one of the fimdamental 
conceptions m landscape gardening, namely, mass planting as opposed to 
the mdiscrimmate scattering of individual plants. In the second photograph 

one sees a large number of rare and 
costly plants. The mind wanders 
from one detail to another; the 
whole effect is distracting and be- 
wildering. There are many plants, 
but there is no picture. The 
question of what to plant is of 
secondary importance to the ques- 
tion of how to plant. 

The first picture is characterised 
by simplicity and strength. The 
mind grasps the whole scheme at once. The open lawn in the center is 
not cluttered with a miscellaneous and meaningless collection of curiosities. 
The lines of the border are free and 
gracefully flowing. Such a border 
requires very little care compared 
with the second one. It is com- 
posed of perfectly hardy trees and 
shrubs arranged m a nature-like 
manner. The border is full ot 
colouT, which is set ofl by a natural 
background of tree foliage. In the 
second picture we have only the 
interest of detail. There is no 
unity, no grouping, no massing of 
plants. The tender foliage plants are costly and ephemeral, while unsightly 
stakes are a poor substitute for robust, sturdy, self-supporting plants. 




nple of scattered planting 



CHAPTER III. SHRUBS AND SHRUBBERY 

I. Shrubs and Where to Put Them 



By 



H. Bailey 




HE growth of the appreciation of shrubbery is one of the 
significant notes of the time. Every one likes trees and is 
wilhng to plant them, but the regard for shrubs seems to 
be a later development. This is well illustrated in many 
of the fine old estates, in which there are trees of magni- 
ficent proportions but a great dearth of plants of lower 
growth. This former lack of appreciation of shrubbery is all the more 
singular from the fact that the beauty of our common native landscapes 
often depends quite as much on the shrubs as on the trees. I suppose that 
the mere smallness of the shrubs causes them to appear to be trivial and 
little worth the while. We have undergone a similar evolution in fruit- 




54 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



growing. Our early pomology is concerned mostly with tree fruits — apples, 
pears, cherries, peaches, plums. The bush-fruit industry is really a develop- 
ment of the last fifty years; and even yet there are many good fruit- 
growers who will not "bother" with berries. 

The marked advance in the appreciation of shrubs is probably due 
to two general agencies —to our growing intimacy with the particular objects 




Ugly corners and 



in nature, and to the teaching by the landscape gardeners. We are caring 
more for things afield. We even start agitations to preserve the wild flowers 
and animals from destruction. Every year we are transferring greater 
numbers of the wild plants to our gardens. Our appreciation of nature 
is becoming closer and more particular. I believe that we have lost nothing 
of appreciation in the large; but we have certainly added a more specific 
understanding of the details. From the art side, we are aware that our 
canons of taste are changing. The old idea of the grove as a proper concep- 



Shrubs and Shrubbery 



57 



tion for the home area has given place to the idea of a picture ; and, in a 
landscape picture, trees are not the only elements of interest, any more 
than they are in a picture on canvas. The shrubs are needed for the 
intermediate tones. 

Before discussing the kinds of shrubs, it is important that we understand 
why we use shrubs. The largest use of shrubs is as a part of the general 




A good treatment of 



composition. The old books said much about the sky-line made by the tops 
of trees. In places of ordinary dimensions, however, it is more important 
to consider the ground-line. The ordinary line of vision should often be 
arrested at the boundaries of the place, else the place looks bare, indefinite 
and unfurnished. 

The proper disposition of shrubs breaks the monotonous ground-line 
and sets limits to the place. Shrubbery also introduces great variety of 
form and colour and texture, and it relieves the tameness and openness 
of mere tree-planted areas. It enhances the intimacy of our relations 



58 How to Make a Flower Garden 

with the planting, since shrubs grow to the height of one's eyes ; whereas 
trees grow far above us, and most herbs are far below us. 

Aside from these general considerations, shrubbery has specific uses. 
It affords a most excellent and quick-growing screen to cut off undesirable 
objects. Thus, a thick planting of shrubs may screen a chicken-yard, a 
clothes-yard, a neighbour's premises, the kitchen door, the vegetable garden, 
the rear fence, the children's playground. It may afford a good cover for 
high and bare foundations, serving to tie the house to the greensward. 
It may cover rough and intractable areas, as rocky places. It may hold 
banks from washing. It is useful for filling all odd and unmanageable 
comers, as the comers by the steps and in the wall. It may be made to 
cover naked and unsightly places under trees and under wide eaves. Nearly 
every important group of trees should have more or less shrubbery at its 
base. Compare the tree-groups that please you in the parks with those 
that do not, and see whether shrubbery does not enter into the composition 
of the former. Observe the treatment of the roadsides in modem parks. 
Why is the old fence-row so attractive ? 

If the reader has been patient enough to follow me thus far, he will 
understand how very difficult it is for any one to give general advice on the 
kinds of shrubs to plant. The shrubs must suit the objects for which they 
are to be grown, and must adapt themselves to the particular conditions. 
The questioner must first analyse his subject ; then the question may answer 
itself. If you are wholly at sea as to what you want to do, call in a landscape 
gardener. Do not think that because your place is small you want a small 
landscape gardener. Often the most difficult questions are those concerned 
with small areas. Get good advice, or else take your own. If you know 
what you want as to effects, but are unacquainted with the kinds of shrubs 
to produce these effects, again take advice, and be willing to pay for it. Ask 
some competent landscape gardener or some reliable nurseryman what 
shrubs will thrive, for example, in shady places in your climate, what ones 
will bloom in July, what ones will grow in wet places, and the like. Perhaps 
there is a park nearby to which you can go to see the kinds of shrubs. The 
superintendent or some other officer will be glad to tell you what they are 
and what they are good for, and to answer any other intelligent question. 
This is one of the things that parks are for — to afford information to the 
intending planter, as well as to be things of beauty in themselves. 

My own predilections are for the native shrubs — for those, I mean. 



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Shrubs and Shrubbery 6i 

that grow wild in my neighbourhood. They are usually "easy" to grow, 
requiring no extra trouble : perhaps this is the source of my interest in them. 
Then, if planted freely, they make the place a part of the region in which it 
is. We are content only when we appreciate the region in which we live. 
Where hobble-bush is the commonest bush, hobble-bush should be to 
us the best bush. It is often said that the native bushes are cheapest, but 
I doubt this. I can buy Japanese shrubs at the nursery one hundred miles 
away, and have them shipped to me, at a total cost considerably less than 
that incurred when I search the woods for dockmackie and good wild roses — 
providing, of course, my time is worth anything. But then, how could I 
spend my time more entertainingly ? 

Of course, I should not plant exclusively of the natives ; and if none 
of the natives seemed to fit the conditions and requirements, then I should 
have none of them. But, at all events, I should make the main body of 
my shrubbery of staple, hardy, easily grown kinds. Then I am sure that 
I am making no experiment and taking no risks. The fancy and capricious 
kinds I should use sparingly ; then if they fail I still have my main plantations 
left. The list of the reliable and hardy kinds for central New York is really 
a long one. I should include in it lilacs, mock-orange or philadelphus, 
spireas, deutzias, rugosa roses, Tartarian and other bush honeysuckle, 
privets, elders, Japanese snowball (the old-fashioned one is too much infested 
with plant-lice), viburnums, barberries, Japanese quince, several willows, 
chokecherry, flowering currant, dogwoods (comus) weigelas, hazels, symphori- 
carpuses, sumacs. These I should call good general-purpose shrubs, and 
suitable for the main effect in planting. 

Most other shrubs I should consider to be special-purpose kinds in central 
New York. For example, the big-trussed hydrangea is a special-purpcse 
object. Perhaps no shrub is planted with so little taste as this. The idea 
seems to be that it must be planted, but that it is immaterial where it is 
planted. Oftenest it is made to spoil a good lawn by having it thrust in 
here and there without relation to method, purpose or design. It reminds 
me of the old lady who came into possession of some doors when a neighbour- 
ing church-building was pulled down. Of course, she must use the doors: 
therefore, she set posts in her garden and hung the doors between. 

This brings up the whole question of what to do with very showy plants 
like the hydrangea. It is perfectly legitimate to have them, but their 
disposition should have some relation to the place itself. I am perfectly 



62 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



sure that they should not be scattered here and there. They show to 
best advantage against a backgroiind of foliage. The best effects usually 

are secured when they are 
planted in front of heavy 
shrub-masses. They then 
have some connection with 
the construction lines of 
the place, and they are far 
enough removed from the 
other shrubs to allow them 
to develop into their full in- 
dividualit}'. A long, sweep- 
ing line of them against a 
flowing backgrovmd of taller 
and heavier gro^vth also 
comports well, particularly 
if the place is somewhat 
florid in its character. It is 
always well, with whatever 
plant, to avoid the isolated, 
unrelated, single specimen in 
the middle of a greensward. 
Note how emphatic are the 
plants of sumac and mock- 
orange in the illustrations on pages 74 and 75, because they have a background 




Azalea amoeaa, formiog the 




Deutzia gracilis, used for a border-mass 



Shrubs and Shrubbery 



6S 



of good foliage. You would not put a pump in the center of your front 
yard : then why put a hydrangea there ? The beauty of any planting will 
be enhanced by due consideration of the surrounding conditions of landscape. 

The value of shrubbery really lies less in its bloom than in the foliage 
and the general character as to form and "habit." Many shrubs have 
merit in both flowers and foliage. Of such is the Japanese quince. In 
spring the bush is on fire with flowers ; in summer, if the plant is not sheared, 
the habit and foliage are good. The forsythia, however, while excelling in 
early spring bloom, has a thin and sparse summer effect that lacks both 
strength and individuality. Therefore, it is well to make the forsythia an 
integral part of a shrubbery-mass, in order that its summer aspect may be 
blended with other foliage. Roses are rarely good for shrubbery effects. 
They are essentially flower-garden 
subjects, valued for their bloom 
alone. They do not produce their 
best bloom when massed with other 
shrubbery. Therefore, it is best to 
grow them in a place by them- 
selves, and in rows, where they 
may receive the best of care. 
There are some exceptions to these 
remarks in the case of the Japanese 
rugosa rose and some of the 
natives; these may be good shrubs 
as well as good flower-bearers ; but 
even in these the blooms are 
secondary. 

The whole subject of purple- 
leaved, yellow-leaved, variegated- 
leaved and cut-leaved shrubs may 
be considered in this connection. 
These objects should always be 
mere incidents in a place. They 
are curiosities. When planted spar- 
ingly and near some shrubbery- 
mass, some of them give very 

f • jY j_ 1 T • -I "^^^ swamp leucothoe(L. racemosa), 

pleasmg effects, addmg richness and whue flowers 




shrub with waxy 



66 How to Make a Flower Garden 

emphasis to the group ; but it is always easy to use too many exclama- 
tion points. 

The reprehensible practice of shearing shrubs should also be considered 
here. The beauty and interest of a shrub surely lie in its natural habit and 
form. When shrubs are sheared into formal shapes, the shrub no longer 
exists for itself, but is only a means of expressing some queer conceit of 
the shearer. Of course, shrubs should be pruned to make them healthy 
and vigorous, to keep them within bounds, to increase the size of bloom, and 
to check mere wa^'wardness ; but all this leaves the shrub a shrub, with the 
hand of the pruner unseen, and does not make it to counterfeit a bottle, or 
a barrel, or a parachute. If the forsythia has superlative merit, it is for the 
wealth of early spring bloom. Yet, I know a yard in which the forsythias 
are annually sheared into shapeless shapes, and this is done when they are 
m bloom. Last year two-thirds of the bloom was cut from these bushes 
when it was just opening, and the reply of the Irishman who barbered them, 
when I remonstrated, was, " Indade, they hev no shape." 

The satisfaction m shrubs, as in any other plants, lies in their vigour 
and healthfulness. Make the ground rich before you plant them ; or, if 
they are already planted, dress them in the fall with fine manure, and in 
spnng apply a little chemical fertiliser. I like to prepare the shrub-border 
by spading it or plowing it deep, working in an abundance of good humus- 
making material, such as fine litter and old manure. This extra work pays 
exceedingly well m the end. 

Plant thick — say two feet apart, unless the shrubs are very large to 
begin with. You want quick effects. The plantation can be thinned out 
later, and those plants that are removed can be planted elsewhere. Shrubs 
can be moved readily. Sometimes I remove certain shrubs frequently 
for several years, letting them do service in ^'arious places for a time. For 
a year or two, strong-growing annual herbs may be grown in the vacant or 
bare places ; but if this is done, extra care must be taken with fertilising and 
watering, or the bushes will suffer. When the bushes are planted, they 
should be headed back severely, and this practice may need to be repeated 
for a year or two until the plants are thoroughly established ; but after they 
are well under way, prune them only mildly. 

As to fall or spring planting, one cannot give dogmatic advice. I 
usually prefer the spring, not knowing what the winter will do for the plants ; 
but get them in early, so that they may establish themselves partly before 



Shrubs and Shrubbery 69 

the hot, dry weather comes. If the land is well prepared the preceding fall, 
much will be gained. 

Always prepare to destroy the bugs and leaf-blights. Every place of 
any size — even a well-planted city lot — should now have a light spraying 
outfit. A little ammoniacal carbonate of copper can always be kept in 
stock in bottles, ready to be diluted, and to be used for fungous attacks; 
and hellebore or other poisons may be kept for the insects. Most shrubs 
will take care of themselves, to be sure; but this does not prove that good 
care on your part may not produce still better results. 



II. How TO Prune Shrubs 
By William F.\lconer 

We pruxe shrubs to regulate their growth and make them graceful, 
pretty bushes, to accentuate their natural character, to invigorate weak 
growth or check overluxuriance, or to increase the profusion or enhance the 
quality of their blossoms. We prune a privet hedge with a hedge-shears 
in a closely sheared, straight, artificial line or rounded form; but this sort 
of pruning in the case of spireas, deutzias, weigelas, mock-oranges and other 
garden favourites, grown in shrubbery-masses or as isolated specimens for 
beauty of form or blossoms, would be desecration. 

All kinds of garden shrubs may be pruned between the times when the 
leaves drop off in late fall and before the buds start to burst into growth 
in earliest spring, but I do not like pruning in very frosty weather. A 
stout, sharp pocket-knife, as Saynor's pruning- knife, or a pair of seven- 
inch, eight-inch, or nine-inch spring pruning-shears, are the handiest im- 
plements for pruning; for cutting out the stoutest shoots and the bigger 
old wood a parrot-bill is excellent, or a pair of lopping shears with 
handles three feet long. 

In pruning shrubs of any kind, have an eye to regulate the growth of 
the plant, and give it an easy, graceful, natural outline, always trying to 
keep the branches well down to the ground. Thin out old and gnarly stems 
and stunted or enfeebled wood, and endeavour to preserve a fair fullness 
of healthy shoots with plenty of firm, well -ripened spray twigs for flowers. 
In pruning twigs, always cut back close to an eye or joint, and in pruning 
branches, large or small, always cut close back to a joint or stem. Never 



70 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



leave a snag, and wherever you find an old snag cut it off close to the living 
wood. Never use hedge-shears on a shrub. We not infrequently see shrubs 
bare at the bottom and with tall stems and broad, spreading heads, but they 
are repugnant to the eye. When the shrubs begin to crowd each other in 
a bed, do not try to remedy matters by pruning; instead, thin the mass by 




A bit of effective border planting 

removing a number of the bushes — dig them up carefully and plant 
elsewhere. 

If any of your shrubs get infested with bark scale — lilacs, prunuses, 
euonymus, and some others frequently do — root them out bodily V't'nout 
hesitation, and bum them. Do not try to cure the shrubs by prun"iig cfif 
the infested limbs. I once had a big bed of rugosa roses infested with 
white scale, and in \\'inter I cut off every plant down into the ground ; the 
next spring, from the suckers in the earth, up there came a dense mass of 
young shoots, all perfectly clean. 



Shrubs and Shrubbery 



73 



Avoid hea\'^' cutting, hacking or pruning of shrubs at one time by 
timely and judicious pruning every year. In most cases, a \'ery little 
pruning will be sufficient. 

Among shrubs that need scarcely any pruning are azaleas. Ihvit:;ia 
gracilis, sweet fern (comptonia), wax myrtle, mezereon, ceanothus, tree 
peonies, shrub yellowroot, and Thunberg's spirea. On the other hand, 
shrubs that are benefited by being cut down to the ground every winter 
are callicarpa, Desmodium pendnliflorum and Japonicum, the "blue spirea" 
(caryopteris), and the shrub-like perennial wild senna (Cassia Marylaiidica). 
Among the larger shrubs that severe annual pruning benefits are the great 
panicled hydrangea and the tamarixes. Cut the hydrangea back to its first 
or second joint and the heads of flowers will be much larger than the^' \\'ould 
be if more wood were left. The African tamarix blooms in May ; cut it hard 
back as soon as it has done blooming, but never at any other time. The 
Chinese tamarix blossoms in August and September; cut it hard back in 




A vista of hardy herbs, shrubs, and 



74 How to Make a Flower Garden 

winter only. Some advise severe annual pruning for the althea, or Rose of 
Sharon; but I do not, for I do not admire a stumpy shrub. Keep it low- 
branched, but let the shoots get up and spread out. The pure white, single- 
flowered one is the prettiest of all, and it needs very little pruning. 

Among our commonest garden shrubs are spireas, deutzias, mock- 
orange, weigelas, snowballs, lilacs, forsythias, magnolias, kerria, and sweet 





H 









ound for informal borders of shrubbery and flowe 
Hydrangea hortensis, and Lilii 



shrubs; and a word about these may suggest how to treat the others. Take 
Van Houtte's spirea : all it needs is occasional thinning out of the old wood ; 
do not shorten the arching sprays. The crenata deutzias and mock-orange 
(generally known as syringa) shrubs are likely to grow very tall and full- 
branched from the bottom. Thin them well out from the base, and cut 
some of the tallest stems back half way, but do not shorten the side branches 
or well-ripened arching sprays. LilacSr'either the named varieties, Persian, 
\'illosa, or the late-blooming tree species, as Pekinensis or Japonica, seldom 
need any pruning, except a watchfulness for suckers from the stocks on 
which they have been grafted : remove these as soon as seen. Weigelas 




Philadelphus, known also as syri 
a background. (Thi 



and mock-orange. This is a good single specin 
ime syringa properly belongs, as a botanical ten 



., standi I 
to the n 



Shrubs and Shrubbery 77 

need only thinning, and if they show a tendency to overluxuriance and 
sparsity of blossoms, cut in their roots in a deep circle three feet away from 
their stem. The Japanese snowballs need no pruning, but the common 
one gives much bigger blossoms from stout, vigorous young shoots than 
from twiggy old wood ; therefore, keep cutting out considerable of the old 
wood and encouraging young. 

Magnolias need no pruning aside from the timely shortening of a too 
far-reaching branch ; but if they are likely to get bare at the bottom, tie 
down some of the lower branches close to the ground to fill up the space. 
Kerria and rhodotypus may get too thick; thin them a little, and from the 
bottom. Sweet-shrub needs only regulating, and, in the case of old plants, 
merely a shortening of the heavier branches. 

Forsythias should be pruned just after their flowers are past. Cut 
them in rather hard. 

Shrubs of doubtful hardiness, as some of the privets, Japanese red- 
bud, and styrax, should not be pruned until early spring; then all injury 
from winter can be cut out. Evergreen azaleas (amoena), leucothoe, 
kalmias and rhododendrons need no general pruning; but in the case of the 
rhododendrons that have been hurt by the winter, their injured branches 
should be cut hard back into sound wood, when a fresh growth may start 
from adventitious buds. 

Roses may be pruned with comparative safety at any time in winter; 
but I never like to touch them until the winter is about over, because in 
some seasons, from tenderness of variety or injury to tmripe wood, some 
kinds are likely to get hurt down to the snow-line. The H. P. or June roses 
we cut pretty low down; this gives us strong shoots and big flowers. Such 
as Madame Plantier we let grow into big bushes. The Crimson Rambler 
is let alone, and it repays us with immense wreaths of vivid blossoms. 
The prairie and all other running roses are simply thinned out, and not 
shortened back. 

In the case of some of the finer Japanese shrubs, or small trees — 
for instance, the dwarf, vari-coloured maples, magnolias of the 
Watsoni and parvifiora type, and pterostyrax — as they advance in 
years and get large, a branch, a big limb, or maybe half the plant, 
may die off in summer with a good deal of the appearance of fire -blight 
in pear trees. As soon as this is noticed, cut out these diseased limbs 
well below the affected parts. 



78 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



III. Home Propagation of Shrubbery 



5y Frank H. Sweet 



Quite a ntimber of years ago my father bought from an agent 
a Hydrangea panicidata grandiflora, one of the finest of flowering shrubs. 
We did not know very much about shrubs at that time, but we hked them 
all, and were fond of experimenting. The second year, my father discovered 
that the hydrangea was much improved by severe 
pruning. It grew better, and the blossoms were 
much larger. Then he found out that if the 
cuttings were inserted in the ground any time 
before the leaves started in June they would root 
easily. He raised a large number of plants in 
this way. All of them blossomed the same season 
the cuttings were put in, and the second year they 
were large enough to transplant. They were set 
in a hedge, five or six feet apart, in front of the 
house. The land was rich and mellow, and they 
grew rapidly. At present the hedge is eight or 
ten feet high and presents a grand spectacle during 
August and September. From the road, especially 
in the evening, it looks like a big bank of snow. 
One year my father put in nearly two thousand cuttings, and very few of 
them failed to root. He has given away hundreds of plants to his neighbours, 
has sold several hundred dollars' worth, and has a thousand or more fine 
plants on his place. And yet he has not followed it as a business, has 
not advertised, and has done comparatively little work at it — a few hours 
in the spring and fall, putting in cuttings and transplanting as the shrubs 
became crowded. 

A neighbour has an acre or two of choice shrubs which he raised almost 
entirely from cuttings and divisions of plants that have been picked up here 
and there. He is a mechanic, and has only an occasional half -hour to spare 
for this work, and yet during the few years that he has owned this lot he 
has changed the barren hillside to a veritable garden of beauty. And I 
doubt if, outside of his work, it has cost him more than ten dollars. 

Many of the cottage owners at Narragansett Pier — two miles away — 




Hydrangea — one of th 
shrubs, and easily 
home 



Shrubs and Shrubbery 8l 

have hedges of CaHfornia privet set around their grounds. These hedges 
are pruned two or three times during the summer, and the cuttings are 
usually thrown beside the road. Occasionally persons going by have picked 
them up and carried them home. At present, there are probably twenty- 
five or thirty fine hedges in the vicinity which are the direct result of these 
cuttings. If the owners had purchased the plants from a nursery the hedges 
would have cost from ten to twenty dollars each; as it is, they cost 
only a few hours' labour. Privet cuttings root easily, and at any time 
from spring to fall. 

I have stated these facts merely to show how easy it is to acquire or 
increase shrubbery. Of course, not all plants increase with the same readi- 
ness. Some must be propagated by cuttings, some by layerings, some by 
grafting, and now and then there is one with which the amateur is sure to 
fail. But I venture to assert that, with the great majority of shrubs, the 
beginner will find but little difficulty. As a rule, I have fotmd it best to 
insert the cuttings in the spring, before the buds have started. Most hard- 
wood cuttings, if desired, may be prepared during the winter and placed 
in the cellar, to be ready to plant out as soon as the ground opens. Cover 
the bundles with a thin layer of soil, if the cuttings are to remain in the 
cellar for some time, to prevent drying. Hydrangeas and some other 
shrubs can be rooted as late as June. Willows and California privet will 
root any time during the summer. 

Cuttings should be made from four to six inches in length, and if possible 
should be inserted in a moist piece of ground. They may be placed very 
close together in rows made just far enough apart to cultivate easily. At 
the end of the first year they will be large enough to transplant. 

Another plant that bothered me at first was the hardy rose. I tried 
cuttings in the greenhouse and out, and in all seasons of the year, but met 
with indift'erent success. At last I put cuttings in an old coldframe that 
was partly open to the weather. During the winter the frame was frequently 
half filled with snow, but the next spring I had a fine lot of thrifty young 
rose-bushes. If I had inserted the cuttings early in the spring, before the 
leaves started, I think they would have done just as well. A good plan 
would be to insert rose-cuttings between the rows of coldframe cabbage 
and cauliflower plants. It would save space, and both would come out 
in the best of condition for early transplanting. 

These examples, I hope, will show that any one with patience and a 



82 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



little money can provide himself with choice shrubbery and plants; and 
there is a fascination in propagating plants that can be foiond in few other 
pursuits. I doubt if the merchant watches the market quotations with half 
the pleasurable interest that the propagator gives to the outcome of some 
of his experiments. Any boy or girl on a farm could have a small nursery 
in one comer of the garden. It would be a constant source of pleasure and 
instruction, and with little trouble could be made to yield a snug income. 





CHAPTER IV. TREES FOR THE HOME GROUNDS 

I. Flowering and Ornamental Trees 

By 0. C. SiMONDs 

lO BOOK on floriculture can be complete without a chapter on 
trees. Some of the showiest flowers are borne on small 
trees which are suitable for gardens of moderate size. The 
foliage of trees and shrubs is indispensable as a backgroimd 
for flower borders. Trees make the sk>^-line — an important 
feature. They are often invaluable as windbreaks, and they supply shade 
and retain moisture — conditions which are essential to the life of some of 
our choicest flowers. 

Who has not seen trees so profusely covered with bloom as to almost 
hide the branches and young leaves? Witness the plums and cherries, 
including those that come to us from Japan; thorn-apples, comprising the 
English hawthome and the great number of American species, all varieties 
of crab-apples, and ornamental peaches. With them naturally go Japanese 
quinces, roses, and spireas. Many of the trees mentioned are ornamental 
in fruit as well as in flower. The Juneberry forms a connecting link between 
snowstorms and summer. Its pure white flowers often appear in contrast 
with those of the redbud. The flowering dogwood is another tree noted 
for its bloom. Some of the willows would be especially appropriate near a 
bog garden, their catkins and brightening bark frequently making the first 
announcement of spring, an announcement which is quick to be repeated 
in a different manner by the song-sparrow perched on one of its branches. 
Trees of a larger size noteworthy for their flowers are the red maples, the 
horse chestnut, the catalpa, the linden, and the locust. The sugar maple 
and Norway maple are also worthy of mention, on account of their yellow 
flowers, although these are not quite so rich in colour as those of the maple 
first mentioned. The flowers of some of the trees named are quite fragrant 
when in bloom. This is especially true of the common locusts and lindens. 
The tulip tree, with its large, glossy leaves of xmique shape, is in full summer 
attire when the blossoms appear, and the latter are frequently imnoticed, 

83 



84 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



although they are quite deserving of admiration. With the tulip tree 
should be mentioned the magnolias, although it must be remembered that 
there are many places in the United States where these do not thrive. 

But trees noted for their blossoms are not the only ones that are suitable 
for planting about a flower garden. The flower garden that I have in mind 
is not one devoted exclusively to the raising of flowers which are to be cut 
for home decoration, and which should be planted in rows and beds for ease 
in cultivation, but is a garden arranged primarily to show a beautiful com- 
position in which flowers appear to their best advantage, because they have 




Laie to appear are the tulips of the liriodendron 



Trees for the Home Grounds 



8S 




xamples of tree covered with showy flowers. Magnolia 
stellata ; hardy in New England ; blooms in April 



a background of shrubs and trees. A single tulip appearing against the 
deep shade of a shrub or low-growing tree may be more beautiful than a 
bed, without any setting, that contains hundreds of plants. The same is 
true of a group of trilliums 
growing tmder a low-branching 
linden, or a showy lady's-slipper 
in the shade of a white pine. I 
have in mind a low-branched soft 
maple where the ground under- 
neath is carpeted with wild violets ; 
an elm about whose buttressed 
trunk is a thick growth of white 
adder-tongues, and a beech shad- 
ing a beautiful group of ferns. 
One can imagine a beautiful fall 
picture where a pepperidge tree, 
which has c|uite inconspicuous 
flowers, but has an autumn foliage 
more brilliant than that of our 
other native trees, serves as a background for sunflowers, golden-rods, 
and asters. Such would indeed be a beautiful picture. 

The brilliant colouring which the foliage of certain trees takes on in 
autumn is usually more satisfactory than that of such trees as the purple- 
leaved plum and the purple-leaved beech, which retain their peculiar colouring 
during the entire season. Care should be taken not to use too many trees 
whose foliage is abnormal either in colour or shape. The leaves of our 
common trees present a wonderfully varied assortment of green, the most 
restful and satisfactory of all colours. No colour makes a better foil for 
a flower, whether it is seen out-of-doors or as a bit of table decoration. One 
can seldom make a mistake, therefore, in selecting native American trees 
for planting about a flower garden. The list of these might be enlarged 
by adding Norway and sycamore maples, the European bird cherry, and 
any other foreign trees which harmonise with our own. The European 
cut -leaved birch is a beautiful tree, but it seems to me that its place is on 
a lawn just in front of a group of pines. When planted with flowers, it 
would seem to be competing with them for admiration, instead of helping 
them by making an effective contrast. If the purple-leaved tree is used, 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




my preference would be to place it in the 
background, with some low, green foliage 
between it and the herbaceous plants. I con- 
fess that I have not much love for the golden- 
leaved varieties of trees, as they always 
remind me of sickly specimens. As for 
deciduous trees, they should be planted just 



Hooker's hemlock (Tsuga Hookerii), showing 
the light-green tips of the new growth. All 
conifers are particularly beautiful at this 
stage 

after the leaves drop in the fall, 
or soon after the frost comes out 
of the ground in the spring. 
They may be obtained of small 
size from reliable nurserymen, 
or sometimes of larger size from 
the neighbourhood of the place 
to be planted. The hole in 
which the tree is to be placed 
should be considerably larger 
than the space occupied by its 
roots, unless the whole space has 
been recently filled or deeplv 
plowed or trenched. Usually 
a tree, especially a tree of large 
size, should be planted a little 




The Colorado blue spruce 



Trees for the Home Grounds 



87 



higher than it stood before moving, as the ground will settle, and a 
tree looks better springing from a slight mound than it does rising from a 
hollow. The mound might indeed be extended into a ridge, receding where 
there are bays, but coming forward and helping give emphasis to the points, 
so that the flower garden would occupy 
a gentle valley. At the time of planting, 
the ends of the roots should be cut 
smooth and the space between them 
carefully filled in with good friable soil, 
and this should be thoroughly compacted 
by pounding. If the soil is Hght or 
sandy, a stream of water from a garden 
hose will sometimes be useful in settling 
and packing it. It is also usually well 
to cut off say two-thirds of the last 
year's growth of branches. Do not dis- 
figure a tree by cutting ofif large limbs 
or "topping" it. Do not attempt to 
have too great a variety of trees. It 
is frequently desirable to make a specialty 
of one kind of tree — for instance, the 
thorn-apple — using it abimdantly, and 
having comparatively few trees of other 
kinds. In this way one garden may 
be given a character that will distinguish 
it from others. I know of one flower 
garden that is being formed in an 
opening between groups of oaks, and 
no other trees will be planted. 

Trees not only furnish a back- 
ground for the shrubs and flowers, .but 
they make a boundary for the sky. This fact should be borne in mind in 
the selection of kinds and in deciding on their arrangement. It is desirable 
to have a large sky space, and this space outlined by the trees should have 
a shape as informal as the shape of a cloud. The trees should also be chosen 
with reference to the size of the garden. For a small flower garden only 
shrubs should be used as a boundary, or perhaps there might be a single 




can now be transplanted by experts 
during every month in the year 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




The pepperidge, extravagant in horizontal branches 

TREES IN WINTER, SHOWING THE BEAUTY 



Trees for the Home Grounds 



89 







The native white birch of New England 
AND VARIETY OF THEIR BRANCHES 



90 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




tree or a group of trees on the 
north side. For a large garden, 
trees might be used on every side, 
since in that case there would be 
plenty of space along the north 
boundary for plants that delight 
in sunshine, or the outline could be 
varied by ' planting crab-apples in 
one place and oaks in another. 



Swamp white oak (Ouercus bicolor; 

In such a garden it will generally be 
found that an irregular boundary is 
the most pleasing. Such an arrangement 
gives shady bays, with projecting points 
that catch the sunshine and give char- 
acter to the picture. 

The effect desired will not be pro- 
duced in a single year. The ground 
about the trees and shrubs will need 
cultivation until these are well estab- 
lished. It would be well if this planting 
could be done a year or two in advance 
of the planting of flowers. After the no wime: 




perfect without the evergreen 



Trees for the Home Grounds 



91 



trees are established they may grow more rapidly than was expected, 
so that soon the problem of cutting away branches or even whole trees 
presents itself. A garden is not like a house, since it is continually 
growing, and one must live with it and study it in order to be able to train 
it in the way it should go. When a branch is to be cut, saw it off next 
to the trunk or next to the larger branch from which it springs. If a 
tree must be removed, see that this is done before it injures the trees 




The dead and weak limbs 
If the weakest compet 



the best of arguments for frequent pruning, 
oved, Nature prunes them in her own way 



around it. Sometimes it will be desirable to retain a group of trees in 
which, although the trees crowd each other, the effect of the whole 
is satisfactory. 

In conclusion, I think of the ideal flower garden occupying a valley or 
a depressed space of ground, usually protected on all sides, with the exception 
of that toward the house, by a woody growth, this growth to vary in size 
from that of the smallest shrubs to that of the largest trees, the latter, of 
course, being used only in a very large garden. This border of woody 
growth will form a frame or setting for the flowers, shielding the sun from 



92 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



ferns and other shade-loving plants in one place, giving the flowers the 
advantage of his rays in another, and protecting everything from the driving 
winds. A flower garden can only be perfectly satisfactory when the flowers 
are in comfortable places — that is, when they have sufficient sunlight, 
shade, moisture, dryness, and protection from wind, and some of these 
comforts the trees will help to give. 



II. Some Weeping Trees 



5y W. C. Egan 



While weeping trees have their proper place in arboriculture, they never 
possess the stateliness and grandeur of their upright progenitors. Being 
abnormal forms, we do not look for such attributes, and are therefore 
prepared for the weird and fantastic shapes that some assume, and for the 
formalities of others. There are certain situations in which the weird forms 
are appropriate, and the formal kinds are well suited to arbours. 

The common notion that weeping trees are produced by grafting ordinary 
trees with buds inserted upside down is quite abstord. Weeping forms 
have been originated by nature and are perpetuated by man. One seedling 
out of many thousands, instead of producing a tree of normal upright growth, 

assumes the pendulous habit. 
If this happens in an unexplored 
region, it lives its allotted term 
of life unobserved, and its pecu- 
liarities pass away at its death, 
as it seldom reproduces its char- 
acteristics in its oft'spring. One 
branch, or even a twig, of a tree 
otherwise normal in its structure, 
may asstime a weeping tendency, 
and it, too, dies with the parent 
tree. This departure from a type 
is foimd, not only in the form of 
branch and twig, but also in a change in the colour or shape of the leaf, 
as in the golden elder and cut -leaf maple. Some of these variations come 
from seed; others are "sports." Man observes these idiosyncrasies, and 




Young's weeping birch 



Trees for the Home Grounds 



93 





Tea's weepine 
arbor (se 



mulberry, forming aa 
: picture below) 



perpetuates those that please his fancy by grafting, budding or rooting. 

In most instances, the budding or grafting is on the trunk of an upright 

form of the same or an allied species. 

In Salix Babylonica, a native of the Levant, 

we have a weeping tree that in the seventeenth 

century was supposed to be the willow mentioned 

in the 137th Psalm, upon which the sorrowing 

captive Jews hung their harps. It thus became 

the typical tree of sorrow. 

This tree is not generally hardy in the 

northern States, but the late Thomas Meehan 

had called attention to a sport from it originat- 
ing upon the grounds of ' Mr. T. C. Thurlow, 

West Newbury. Massachusetts, of a more upright 
form, that has proved 
hardy there and at the 
experiment station in 

Nebraska. There is, however, a substitute for it 
in the Wisconsin weeping willow, a tree whose origin 
is clouded in mystery. It is suitable only in large 
grounds, where ample room may be devoted to it. 
The willow has given us another handsome 
weeping form in Salix purpurea, var. pendula, the 
purple osier of Europe, which is in reality a broad, 
spreading, dectmibent shrub, often nearly ten feet 
high. This, when grafted on an upright trunk, is 
known in our catalogues as "The New American 
Weeper," and is one of the most graceful of the 
smaller pendulous trees. The grayish-olive tone of 
its leafage renders it an admirable subject to be 
placed well to the front, where a foil of dark-green 
foliage makes it a conspicuous, though generally 

The weeping m.^be^rry on its harmOuioUS, objCCt. 

Undoubtedly the loveliest of all hardy weeping 
trees is the cut-leaved weeping birch when at its maturity, but unfortunately, 
in most sections, it dies at the top before reaching an age when it displays 
its pendulous growth to the best advantage. 



94 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




Camperdown elm 



Next to it, perhaps, is the weeping beech, which in its youth is almost 
painful to look upon, but when time has clothed its trunk with numerous 
tortuous branches assumes a form that presents a tumbling, waving mass 

of foliage which in some specimens 
is grand and imposing. No one 
can form any idea of the ultimate 
shape this tree will assume. It 
seems to change its mind with each 
season's growth, and may eventu- 
ally form a specimen weirdly grand 
or grotesquely absurd. 

These same remarks apply 
with even more force to the weep- 
ing Norway spruce. This, when 
seen in the dim twilight, with its 
dark evergreen foliage hanging in clotted masses, suggests the uncouth 
denizens of the paleozoic forest. 

In Young's weeping birch is a fantastic form well adapted to small 
grounds, but in this case, also, it is a question of time as to whether it 
will develop into being a pleasing form or not. The weeping larch 
is another tree of curious growth, 
requiring age before it may be 
admired in all its beauty. 

One of the best-known weep- 
ing trees is the Camperdown elm, 
a typical grafted variety whose 
hardiness is unquestioned. While 
of comparatively slow growth, 
it forms in time, and in good 
ground, a most suitable arbour. 
A well-grown specimen will drooj > 
to the ground and form an en- 
closure twenty or more feet in 
diameter, producing a dense, 

agreeable shade, handsome when in flower, and again when in leaf. 
When planting this elm, it is well to remember that the doorway 
to the natural arbour it will form will be between some two 




The Wisconsin weeping 



Trees for the Home Grounds 



95 



of its main, spreading branches, and care should be exercised that this 
opening will look out upon a pleasing vista. 

The weeping ash, where it does well and is grafted high enough, forms 
a splendid arbour much sooner than the Camperdown elm, but it seems 
more adapted to its English home than to our climate. 

Tea's weeping mulberry, of comparatively recent introduction, is one 
of the fastest growers of them all, and naturally forms a narrow arbour. 
The new growth starts out from the upper part of the present branches, 
arches slightly, 
and then hangs 
down straight. 
These new 
branches rob 
the inner ones 
o f light and 
air, causing 
their decay 
and death, 
but the n e w 
branches are 
annually i n - 
creasing the 
spread of the 
top, and in 
time form a" 

arbour. m The guttering raiment of soft snow 

order to hasten 

the formation of a fair-sized arbour, cut the head well back, in the spring 
or at the time of planting, fasten an iron ring or wooden hoop under the 
outer rim of the head, and train the branches out laterally for two 
seasons. The hoop should be wrapped with burlaps to prevent chafing, 
and the branches tied to it. 

Weeping mulberries are grafted on upright forms. An illustration is 
given (page 93) of this tree, growing on its own roots, where the branches 
droop from the trunk all the way up. It is not a thing of beauty, but of 
curiosity. Had it not been supported from the time of planting it would 
be sprawling upon the ground. In planting a weeping tree to form an 




96 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



arbour, one must procure a specimen grafted at least six to seven feet high 
in order to obtain sufficient head room. 

The gem among the flowering weepers is the Japanese rose-flowered 
weeping cherry, which, in early spring, and before the leaves appear, is a 
fleecy, feathery mass of bloom, completely covering every part, swaying 
with the winds, and hiding its nakedness while putting on its summer foliage. 





CHAPTER V. VINES x\ND CREEPERS 

I. Select List of Vines 

By W. C. Egan 

HERE are so many kinds of vines excellent in foliage, flower, 
and berry, and so many effective ways of growing them, 
that one is often at a loss what to choose and how to pro- 
ceed. My first choice for a permanent covering of porch 
pillars is the Japanese Akebia quinata. Its good points are: 
freedom from the attacks of worms or caterpillars (whose acrobatic feats 
of dropping from an unknown height and landing upon one's neck I do 
not enjoy), the early unfolding of its leaves, the lateness of their reten- 
tion, and the delicate silhouettes its five-fingered leaflets form against 
a moonlit sky. This vine is quite hardy, and a rapid grower when once 
established in good light soil. Its flowers, appearing in early spring, are 
more curious than attractive, being small and spicily fragrant. It seldom 
fruits in this country. It is a social vine, allowing friendly neighbours 
to encroach upon its rights without apparent injury to itself. 

The main vine embowering my porch is the Akebia, which is planted 
at the base of the pillars. Between these pillars the large-flowered species 
of clematis are freely used, but I also grow Clematis Flamnmla for its fleece- 
white bloom in midsummer, and moderately young plants of Clematis 
panicidata for the same effect in early 
autumn. Both of these are cut back 
when through blooming — at least, any 
portion of them that may have grown 
over the face of the Akebia, since I 
wish to allow the latter to enjoy full 
possession of sunlight and air part of 
its growing season. Clematis Flammnla 
is never a very strong vine with me, and 
when the paniculata gets too rampant 

it is removed. Vireinla creeper 

97 




98 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



My next favourite of the hard-wooded vines (those that do not die back 
in winter) is also a Japanese plant — Cdasirns orbicitlaiiis, a relative of our 
bittersweet. It is not adapted to porch decoration, as its long, waving, 

semipendant 

anns are too 
vigorous and 
rampant, and 
would be seri- 
ously in the 
wa}-, but for 
arbours or 
large arches it 
i s admirable. 
\\' h i 1 e its 
foliage is good 
at all times, its 
chief beauty is 
its berried 
effect in late 
autumn and 
throughout 
the w inter 
months, just 
at the time 
w hen the 
echoes of the 
summer glories 
are most wel- 
come. Fortu- 

Vines overrun it on all sides, and convert its spacious verandas into avenues of shade 

nately (for me, 
at least), where the ravine-nested birds are so numerous, its berries are 
unmolested by the feathered tribe, and remain pendant all winter, like 
coral beads floating in the air. In this species they are more numerous 
than in its American relative, C. scaiidens. I imagine the Japanese form 
to be the stronger grower of the two. 

An effective way to grow the American bittersweet is to allow it to 
twine around an iron rod. I use a three-inch iron pipe, set in a block of 





L.cfC. 



Vines and Creepers loi 

:ement at the bottom of the hole, to steady it against heavy winds. Its 
effect in winter, when in its berry garb, is fine. These vines are very 
accommodating as to situation, thriving in full sunshine or partial shade. 

The Virginia creeper (Ampelopsis qninqiiefolia) of our woods, which 
colours so beautifully in the fall, is best placed upon your neighbotir's gate- 
posts or your bam, where you may admire it at a distance, and where the 
caterpillar may feed upon its leaves and not become familiar with and attached 
to you. Or it may climb up the trunk of defunct oaks, or any large tree, 
where it may hang in festoons from the lower branches. Yoimg trees should 
not be used for this purpose, as they are apt to be smothered and eventually 
killed. Sometimes a boulder can be partially covered by a Virginia creeper 
with good effect. 

The honeysuckles are excellent to cover wire fences, or for grouping 
on sunny slopes and then allowed to bunch and trail at their own sweet will. 

The Dutchman's-pipe, in sections where it does well, is a clean, vigorous- 
looking vine, with heavy overlapping foliage, bearing flowers which are 
tantalising to one who has recently sworn off smoking. 

The trumpet creeper is suitable for training against a clothes-line post. 
It should be pinched back when it reaches the top ; it will then form a shrub- 
like head. Or it may be allowed to climb up into some large tree and roam 
around its branches. 

The two matrimony vines, Lycium Chinense and L. barbatiiiii. may be 
used with eft'ect on low trellises. The first-named is the finer in berry, but 
near Chicago L. barbatum is the stronger grower. 

The moonseed makes a good cover for clothes-line posts, but, if recent 
reports are true, its berries are poisonous to children. 

The Boston ivy is too well known to mention. It is the best of all 
vines for house- walls in America. 

Where artificial supports are given to a vine, let them be of a permanent 
nature, such as iron rods or gas pipes.' Perishable trellises generally look 
limp and intoxicated by the time the vines are luxuriously developed and 
approach our ideal of vine beauty. It is also demoralising to see them 
sprawling upon the ground after some wind-storm. 

It is often desirable to close the end of a porch-opening, either to 
shield from public view, to shut out the sun, or to hide an unpleasant aspect. 
This is easily accomplished by planting thickly and supporting the vines 
on light iron framework. 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



II. A Convenient Classification of Vines 



J. A. R. 




What vines shall we grow ? This will depend chiefly on location and 
aspect, but to a considerable extent also on the character of the object to 

be covered, whether of brick, stone 
or wood. Vines may be roughly 
classified by their manner or habit 
of growing. 

I . Tivincrs. In this group 
belongs the native bittersweet 
{Celastrns scandcns), v^fhich has 
inconspicuous flowers, but bright 
orange capsules with ccarlet berries 
inside. Long strings of bittersweet 
are often used for home decoration, 

A pergola at Kiltmore . i, ■ /tii 

as the berries last all winter, ihe 
plant is hardy everywhere, and is desirable for covering low objects or 
latticed verandas. The Dutchman's-pipe is a rapid grower, and can 
stand thirty degrees below zero. It has large, heart-shaped leaves and odd 
flowers. The native and Japanese hop belong to this class ; also moonseed. 
Actinidias are attractive twiners, free from insect diseases, and useful 
for covering arbours. 

2. Climbing by discs. Here belong"^ the Auipelopsis Vcitchii, com- 
monly called ampelopsis, Boston 
ivy, or Japan ivy. This is b}^ long 
odds the most popular vine for 
stone or brick walls. It reaches a 
great height, colouring beautifully 
in autumn. There is a form of 
the "\"irginia creeper which has 
discs instead of tendrils; the 
nurserymen sell it, and it is some- 
times found wild. 

3 Climbing by tendrils or 
aerial roots. English ivy (Hedera) 




Vines and Creepers 



103 




is a slow grower, but lives long. 
It is practically our only evergreen 
climber, though Hall's honeysuckle 
holds its leaves well into winter. 
English ivy succeeds on north and 
east brick or stone walls in central 
New York; farther north it is 
likely to winter-kill. The trumpet 
creeper (Tecoma) also climbs by 
aerial roots. It reaches the top of 
tall buildings, but it is more suit- 
able for lower stories. In its way- 
ward, strolling habit there is much 

that is artistic. If one would have bloom, annual spring pruning is desirable. 
4. Requiring support. Among the numerous vines of this class are 

clematis, notably C. Jackmaui 

and C. paniculata. They clim1:> 

fairly well after receiving some 

encouragement, and are attractive 

in fruit as well as in flower. 

Honeysuckles and roses are 

general favourites. The evergreen 

character of some types of the 

former, and the free-blooming 

habits of the ramblers and 

Wichuraianas, make them favour- 
ites with rich and poor alike. 

The matrimony vine (Lyctum bar- 

batum) has neither tendrils nor twining habit, but when trained to 

supports on a veranda the general effect is gracefully artistic. Nor should 

we overlook the wistaria, richly tropic in the luxuriance of its flowers. 




III. Some Pumpkins 

By Willi.\m Chambers Wilbor 

Having experienced in former years the advantage of training 
pumpkins on poles and trees, I determined last spring to build a trellis over 



I04 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



the kitchen door, on the south side of the house, for shade, ornament and 
fruitfulness, and I was much pleased with the beautiful effect. 

I planted the seeds of the small pie pumpkin in a box, in the house, 
early in April, and they were almost ready to run when I set them in the 

ground about the first of June. 
Five plants were set out a foot 
apart on each side of the steps. 

I spaded deep into the rich 
soil, and powdered it fine, leaving 
a saucer-shaped depression in the 
ground about the plants so that 
the moisture would settle around 
the roots and not run oft". 

Three or four times during the 
season I stirred the soil thoroughly 
with the hoe, and watered the 
vines with liquid fertiliser from 
the stable. A more interesting 
subject for nature-study I have 
never had. My vines grew about 
six inches a day, and every few 
days I foimd it necessary to tie 
the sprays to the wires and slats 

Pumpkin vine a, ,he back door ^^ ^j^^ arboUr. 

In a few weeks they had reached the top of the trellis, and formed a 
canopy of shade so dense that the sun could not shine through, even in spots. 
The leaves grew so large that they resembled palm leaf fans, and the 
scores of rich golden blossoms, opening every day during the summer, 
were wonderful to behold. The pumpkin arbour became the admiration 
of the whole neighbourhood. Seven golden pumpkins ripened and were 
duly made into pies. 

I learned several interesting and profitable lessons from my experiment. 

1 . That no plant or vine grows more rapidly, or makes a more 
luxuriant, tropical, and dense shade, than the pumpkin vine. 

2 . The tendrils are so strong that, after they have made a dozen 
tight coils about a wire or around each other, they become almost 
as tough as the wire itself. 




Vines and Creepers 



I OS 



3 . Pumpkin vines possess remarkable vitality. One stem was crushed 
underfoot and held together by only a few fibers, but I bound it tightly 
together with a strip of muslin, and it climbed to the top of the frame and 
bore a ripe pumpkin; another branch was broken more than half in two, but 
it grew right on and bore fruit. 

4 . The male and female blossoms were also an interesting study. The 
former were very numerous, and bloomed at the end of long, slender stems, 
while the latter grew on stout, thick stems, with embryo pumpkins well 
formed back of the blossoms before they opened. 

5 . The fruit grew in greater profusion, ripened more perfectly, and 
had a better flavour than when it grows on the ground. 

6 . Though the bugs were \-ery troublesome last summer, and destroyed 
almost all of the pumpkin and 
squash vines in our vicinity, my 
climbing vines were not molested 
by them. 

7 . It was very entertaining 
to watch the ripening of the 
pumpkins. At first, small round 
spots or stars of yellow appeared 
on the surface. Then followed an 
intricate tracery of yellow lace, 
woven by Nature's skillful yet 
invisible fingers upon the ground- 
work of deep green, which grew ^^^_^_^__.,.^j.^_.- «-^^^^^^— . ■ 
brighter and more distinct from ■^5S3»K'.-%hSIMBH^^^^^HL.V 
day to day, until the whole orl) 
of emerald turned to a globe of 
gold, and by the sun became a 
sun in miniature by other suns 
surrounded, in the zenith of our ^'' ' it r.mirk.n v.iu- 
arbour's sky, and the fruit of the pumpkin tree was ripe and ready 
for the harvest. 

8. It is worth while to examine the commone...o plants, especially the 
vegetables, with reference to new combinations of use and beauty. Take 
rhubarb, for instance. Unlike many of the foreign things that are wanted 
for broad-lea\'ed eft'ects in the hardy border, it is sure to grow. 



-' .i^^***:; •» 






lo6 How to Make a Flower Garden 

IV. Annual Vines to Conceal Rubbish 
By " The Fullertons " 

There is nothing that will impro^•e a place more than having the garbage, 
ashes and trash out of sight, especially if the place be small and in the 
suburbs. When we moved just out of New York City, early in May of one 
year, we decided we should make the hiding of these unsightly cans 
our chief aim of the garden that year. 

To begin with, we purchased two corrugated galvanised iron ash barrels 
and one garbage can. These we painted a gray green, then placed them 
in a pen back of the grape arbour. Along the back of the pen there was 
a very pretty arbour-vitae hedge, which helped us greatly in our scheme. 
The sides of the pen were made of chicken wire, and on one of these sides 
we planted climbing nasturtiums, and on the other ornamental gourds, wild 
cucumber vine, and castor-oil bean. Along the hedge on each side were 



I 




Unsightly objects screened by wild cucumber and nasturtium 



Vines and Creepers 



107 



sunflowers, which, when they grew to a height of ten feet, drew attention 
from anything below. We led the gourd and cucumber over to the grape 
arbour some distance away, also along the clothes-lines and posts. This 
almost made a roof, and draped the front of the pen so prettily that the 
objects inside were hardly noticeable at all. 

The wild cucumber is one of the most useful and ornamental of the 
annual climbers. It has an extremely pretty leaf and feathery white flowers, 
while the large oval seed-pod is covered with spines. It drops its seed very 
abundantly, and will reappear year after year. 




formal garden at Brookline 



V. Pergolas — A Suggestion 

By "M." 

The word "pergola" is in common use to-day, yet you will not find it 
in the International Dictionary, tmless in some very recent edition. A pergola 
might be defined as a sort of glorified grape arbour. The only difference 
is that a pergola is usually a costlier sti"ucture, and is supposed to be beautiful 
in itself. Also, it may be covered with any kind of vine, not merely the 
grape, as it is erected to display the beauty of lines and of foliage and of 
flower, the item of fruit being wholly incidental. The old-fashioned grape 
arbour was a shady retreat where the housewife might sew in peace, and 



io8 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



a deal of courting has been done under its gracious protection. The ordinary 
grape arbour, however, is a rather flimsy structure, which gives way under 
the eager feet of the small boys who steal over the back fence the first day 
the green grapes begin to purple. In the winter its frame is usually gaunt 
and cheerless. The pergola, however, is the delight of American architects 
to-day, and no great estate is complete without one — at least, wherever 
formal gardening is anything of a feature. There is a beautiful pergola 
at Arlington, near the nation's capital, where one may rest and ponder 
i^Don the great spectacle of the army of the dead. 

VI. A Bit of Nature's Gardening 

By W. C. S. 

The picture below shows an old, long-abandoned flour-mill in the 
beautiful valley of St. Helena, Napa County, California. At certain times 




A bii of Nature's gardening — i 



II covered by native 



Vines and Creepers 109 

of the 3'ear the mill is almost covered by vines. This is a familiar sight 
to anglers in the neighbourhood, as the stream that runs by the mill 
is noted for its trout. 

Here is a suggestion for the treatment of deserted buildings of all kinds. 
These eyesores might just as well be things of beauty. Vines will make 
the transfoiTnation. Are there not some tumbledown buildings in your 
neighbourhood ? If so, why not start some native perennial vines against 
their walls ? Perhaps the Virginia creeper grows wild in your neighbourhood. 
Dig up a piece, carry it off in a basket, and plant it where it will do the 
most good. You will do the comm.unity a good service, and the experience 
will be worth while for its own sake. 



CHAPTER VI 

Native Ferns for Shady Places 

By W. H. Taplin 

|[DE yards that revel in sunshine are few and far between on 
many city streets, and as a natural consequence flowering 
plants in shady corners often turn out to be miserable failures. 
Xevertheless, there are possibilities in the gardening art 
even in the shadiest of side or back yards, and one of the 
most interesting and beautiful of these possibilities is found in the form 
of a fern garden, in which are planted some of our native ferns. Many 
of these ferns are procurable by means of an excursion to the suburban 
woods or else through the medium of a dealer. The best time for trans- 
jjlanting them is in the spring or early summer, though some of the stronger- 





A glimpse of the wild gardening 



t wooded ravine. Ostrich fern, Irillium, Virginia cowslip, and lady's-slipper 
II I 



112 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




The walking leaf 



growing species may be moved from their woodland home at almost any- 
time during the growing season, provided a good-sized ball of earth is 
taken up with the roots. 

But the soil in the side yard is not infrequently ill suited to encourage 
the growth of tender plants. Too much subsoil 
thrown up at the time of housebuilding, and too 
much coal ashes and other refuse mixed in at the 
time of grading, combine to produce a condition 
far from fa\'ourable for our proposed fern garden. 
"Lacking in humus" is what the agricultural 
scientists would be likely to say about such a soil, 
and it is humus or decayed vegetable matter, such 
as leaves, roots, and twigs, that forms the greater 
portion of the natural soil in which the wild ferns 
are found growing so luxuriantly. Where the side 
yard presents these poverty-stricken conditions 
of soil, it would pay to make a little preparation before planting the 
ferns, by digging out the proposed bed to a depth of one foot, or perhaps 
fifteen inches, and then filling it in with some good garden soil or else 
woods' earth. The ferns should not be buried too deeply in planting, 
but ha\'e the soil pressed firmly around the roots. The crown or center 
of growth should be just about at 
the surface of the soil. 

The maidenhair is one of the 
choicest of our native ferns, but 
transplanted specimens seldom 
thrive as well as those in the 
woods. Success is generally had 
in proportion to the accuracy with 
which one can reproduce the 
natural conditions. 

The climbing or Hartford fern 
{Lygodimn palmatum) does not 
require the exclusion of direct 
sunshine to the same degree as does the maidenhair, and while the 
earth in which it grows is always moist, yet the wooded upland in 
which it is sheltered presents some entirely changed characteristics that 




Copyright. 1901. G. A. Woolson 
Trichomanes, the fern which the English call 
hair." It is also native to the United States 



Native Ferns for Shady Places 



"S 




irisim-s fern, showing last year's 
trondo and new fiddlehead= 



the observant explorer is quick to note for future 

reference. This plant is very rare, and should 

never be taken from the woods. It should be 

purchased of a nurseryman who will guarantee 

that the plants are cultivated by him, not taken 

from the wild. 

Then there is that singular member among our 

native ferns the peculiar habit of which gave rise 

to the Indian designation of "walking leaf." 

The walking fern is seldom met with in consider- 
able numbers in any one place. The long, narrow 

leaves of this fern are shaped somewhat like an 

elongated arrow-head, the point of which seems to 

seek the earth from which it sprung ; and when this 

leaf completes its growth and its slender tip is rest- 
ing on the ground, roots are emitted, a new bud 

forms, and soon we find a young plant attached 

to the leaf-tip of the parent, and in its turn reaching out with tiny 

stride toward new territory. The "walking leaf" is perhaps less happy 

under cultivation than are other and stronger-growing species, but 
owing to its singular habit this plant has much 
attraction for the plant collector, and once dis- 
covered is seldom allowed to rest in the shady 
quietness of its native woods. 

But these already mentioned may be classed 
among the modest and retiring members of the 
great fern family, and there are a number of others 
that are much more obtrusive, presenting them- 
selves in great masses of feathery foliage that 
almost give a tropical aspect to what are generally 
looked upon as merely "sprout," or second-growth 
woods, in prosaic New Jersey or Pennsylvania. 

Among these ferns of greater growth is found 
the common "brake" (Piens aqmlina), a species 
that is now very common in many portions of 
our country, though in reality an emigrant rather 
than a native American, for the bracken is sup- 




ii6 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



posed to have been introduced from Europe. The fohage of this noble 
fern rises to a height of four or five feet, is much divided into narrow 
segments, and is of a very pleasing light green throughout the summer; 
but as autumn approaches the leaves are seen to turn gradually to a 
bright yellow, and from this to brown, for this fern is not an evergreen. 

Open glades in the woods 
often provide the abiding place for 
this fern, where its sturdy foliage 
gets a fair amount of sunshine, and 
at the same time sufficient moist- 
ure to furnish sustenance for its 
abundant roots. The 'royal fern" 
(Osmtinda regalis), also known as 
'flowering fern" owing to the 
peculiar manner in which the fertile 
fronds are thrown up in the center 
of the plant's growth, is more of a 
swamp-lover, and is often found 
growing in a rather wet bottom. 
Fortunately, the "royal fern" is 
not an extremely difficult subject 
to transplant from the woods to 
the home grounds, but a moist 
bottom and a partial shelter from 
sunshine are requisites for the 
best progress of the transplanted 
specimen 

The cinnamon fern (Osmtinda 
cinnamomea) is another interesting 
.panding terns member of this family, and shows 

great ability to adapt itself to its surroundings ; for while its most natural 
habitat is a somewhat swampy field, or along the outer edge of a swamp, 
yet this same cinnamon fern has been found in considerable numbers 
on a very dry and stony bank beside a dusty road in Delaware. 

Then there is the "Christmas fern," the long and narrow fronds of 
which remind one of the sword ferns, and are used in vast quantities by 
florists all over the land as a groundwork or backing for floral designs. These 




The clenched fists o) 



Native Ferns for Shady Places 



117 



fronds are gathered by the milHon, in Michigan and other of the northern 
States, in the fall, and are carefully packed away in cold storage by the 
wholesale dealers until such time as the market demands them. 

The botanist, with his knapsack for the reception of choice specimens, 
does but little harm to our native flora, and the specimens he captures are 
taken in the interests of science, but what can be said for the botanical 
pot-hunter, so to speak, who ships fern fronds to the number of 3,000,000 
per annum to one of our large cities ? 




The blue asters among the ferns 




CHAPTER VII. BULBS 

I. Hardy Bulbs for Fall Planting 

By Patrick O'Mara 

HE time to prepare for the spirng feast of flowers is in the 
fall. Too often people forget all about it until they see 
the tulips in the parks or in their neighbours' gardens, 
and then they hie to the bulb-seller in a quest for bulbs. 
Generally speaking, from the middle of October until the 
ground is closed with frost the spring-flowering bulbs may be planted. 
Some of the species are late in ripening — lily-of-the-valley, for instance 
— and so the planting stock is not available until November. In our 
northern climate frost and snow may have made their appearance before 
these are procurable, so the expedient of covering the ground where they are 
to be planted must be adopted. Coarse bagging spread over the ground, and 
a covering of three or four inches of leaves, hay or litter of any kind, will 
answer. The best bulb garden the writer ever had — a small one, 'tis true 
— was planted on New Year's Day, the soil ha\-ing been kept frost-free by 
the method described. However, unquestionably, the earlier the better. 
The first customers get the best stock, .and the amateur will do well to order 
his hardy bulbs in September, for October planting. 

The ideal soil for most bulbs is a friable, sandy loam, well enriched 
with baniyard manure in which is a goodly proportion of cow manure. This, 
bear in mind, must be thoroughly rotted and mixed to obtain best results. 
It is a common practice for amateurs to get manure fresh from the horse 
stables and put it in the soil. The fermentation is almost sure to kill the 
roots. In case properly prepared baniyard manure is not available, then a 
concentrated fertiliser may be used. This can be obtained of any dealer. 
The brand does not make much difference. Any complete fertiliser will do. 
Of vital importance it is to thoroughly dig the soil and pulverise it ; also to 
see that water does not lodge on the beds where bulbs are planted. Let 
them be raised abo^'e the surface of the garden and sufficiently convexed to 
shed the rain that falls. It will repay, also, to cover the beds with two or 

119 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



three inches of the manure already described, not alone for the protection 
given to the bulbs, but also for the sustenance derived from it. That covering 

should be taken off in the spring, 
when all danger of se^'ere frost 
is past, about the time the bulbs 
begin to send up their growths. 
This refers particularly to hya- 
cinths and tulips, but applies to 
nearly all varieties. 

The place to plant bulbs and 
the formation of the beds must 
be determined by the individual 
facilities of the planter. If op- 
portunity exists to have large beds 
m fancy designs, they should be 
adopted — nothing is more attrac- 
ti\-e. For this purpose hyacinths 
and tulips are admirably fitted. 
Curved beds or fancy scrolls of 
tulips along the drives on large 
estates, or even on modest ones, 
are most effective. In planting, 
care should be taken to obtain 
varieties which bloom at the same 
time and attain the same heights, or the desired effect will be 
lost. Round, square, oblong, crescent, star-shaped, oval — in fact, 
any bed design which suits the owner's fancy and will harmonise 
with the surroundings may be adopted for planting hyacinths and 
tulips. Good contrasting colours should be used and so planted as to 
bring out and accentuate the adjoining colours. Beds of one solid colour 
will find fa\-our with many, and are very effective. All the dealers in bulbs 
cater to the demand for this style of planting, and have lists of varieties 
made up especially for it, so that the intending planter need not be at a 
loss as to what varieties to select. All he need decide is the size of the beds 
and their form, and the dealer will be able to give him the material, properly 
selected, for planting them. It is well, however, to note the names of particu- 
lar varieties which have given the planter especial satisfaction. 




Sulphur Phoenix 



3ulbs 



121 



In park work and public places, where it is imperative to get the very- 
best results, it is the common practice to discard the tulips and hyacmths 
after they have bloomed once. The amateur, however, may remove these 
bulbs to a less conspicuous position, as the back yard, the hardy border, or 
the wild garden, where they will contmue to bloom year after year indefinitely. 
It is now a mooted question, considering the price at which new and superior 
bulbs can be purchased, whether or not it is worth while taking up hyacinth 
and tulip bulbs and keeping them for a succeeding year. If it is to be done, 
the time to do it is after they hare ceased flowering, when the leaves turn 
yellow. Dig them then, place them m a sunny position, put enough soil 
on to cover the bulbs, and when all vegetation has gone from them put 
them away in a cool, well-ventilated place, until time to replant m the fall. 

Indiscriminate planting in the border is much easier than bedding, 
and here the veriest tyro can hardly go wrong. Wherever there is room, put 
m some bulbs, singly, m pairs, m 
half-dozens and dozens ; the keenest 
pleasure is derived m finding the 
unexpected come up here and 
there. This is the place to plant 
bulbs for the purpose of cutting , in 
the design bed, cutting the flowers 
will mar the effect of the whole, 
but they are not missed from the 
mixed border. This is the place 
for jonquils, daffodils, all varieties 
of narcissi, and yet they are thor- 
oughly at home m large beds by 
themselves. It is the place also to 
put in clumps of the lovely lily- 
of-the-valley, the stately iris, and 
the massive peony which is often 
considered by dealers as a bulbous 
plant. Here they live and ha\'e 
their being year after year, un- 
disturbed by the vagaries of Dame 
Fashion; for, even in matters of the garden, the fickle jade will interfere, and 
the design which finds favour this year may be frowned upon the next. 




Trumpet daffodil (Hofsfieldii) 



122 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Bulbs may be introduced with effect along the confines of grounds and 
in out-of-the-way places, just on the borderland of the cultivated and the 
uncultivated, m the shade of trees, along winding paths here and there — in 
such a way as not to mar the natural effect desired in such surroundings. 
In such places, crocuses, lilies-of -the- valley, narcissi, snowflakes, scillas, 
trilliums, snowdrops, chionodoxas, hemerocallis, funkias, hlies, etc., blend 
m perfect harmony with their environments. 

An appropriate and very effective place for planting bulbs is on the 

lawn. Such bulbs as crocuses and 
Scilla amccna, a very early flower- 
ing variety, are preeminently 
adapted for this purpose. They 
look best when planted in irregular 
patches here and there, as if they 
came up naturally — a patch of the 
yellow in one place, the blue in 
another, the white in another, and 
again the purple. Chionodoxas, 
winter aconite, snowdrops, tri- 
teleias and bulbocodiums are use- 
ful for this method of planting, 
and very appropriate. They may 
be planted with a dibber; or the 
sod can be removed, the bulbs 
placed in position, and the sod 
replaced. They bloom early, and 
mature before the grass needs cut- 
ting in spring, so the lawn eft'ect is not marred. 

First in importance among hardy bulbs I should place the hyacinths. 
Much has been written about putting them in position in the bed and then 
covering them with soil, putting sand under them, etc., but in actual 
practice these slow and laborious methods are not essential to success. If, 
however, the planter prefers to follow the more laborious — and possibly 
surer — method,, then remove five or six inches of the top soil and cover the 
surface of the soil where the bulbs are to be set with an inch of sand. One 
advantage of this method is that it enables the planter to accurately place 
the bulbs in position as to depth and distance apart, so that the effect at 




Double golden daffodil 



Bulbs 



125 




A bed of squills covered with leaves for ihe 



flowering time is more regular as a whole than if planted with the dibber. 
The layer of sand has its advantage, inasmuch as it provides drainage at the 
base of the bulbs and minimises the chances of decay from contact with 
manure in the soil and from water 
lodging immediately beneath them. 
The writer has seen good beds of 
bulbs obtained by both methods, 
but the last one described is pos- 
sibly the surer one. 

The ground ha\'ing been made 
ready, as previously described, 
and marked off for the various 
sorts if a design is to be planted, 
all that is necessary is to use a blunt stick and make a hole large enough to 
receive the bulb and deep enough to have the crown three to four inches below 
the surface, and place the bulb in it. Cover the bulbs, smooth off the bed, 
and the work is done. The proper distance for planting is six inches apart. 
The hyacinth referred tc here is the common ' ' Dutch ' ' kind so familiar to 
all. They can be obtained in separate colours or m special named varieties. 
They are in two leading classes — single- and double-flowered. For garden 
planting the single-flowered sorts are to be preferred, as they are more 
graceful and the spikes are not as heavy, so they stand up better. It 
may be found necessary to support the flower-spikes with light sticks. 

Next to the hyacinth in importance comes the tulip. The directions 

for planting the hyacinth apply to 
the tulip also. There is a greater 
variety of these than in the hya- 
cinth — single and double, early and 
late, tall and dwarf ; beware of get- 
ting them mixed in the same bed. 
The leading dealers now offer a 
class of "bedding tulips," and 
these, generally speaking, are the 
best to plant in beds. An effective 
method which has recently come into vogue for planting tulips and hyacinths 
is to cut fancy scroll designs out of the sod, wide enough to hold two or 
three rows, and plant the bulbs to follow the design. 




The same bed in bloom 



126 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



The tulips known under the general title of bedding varieties do not 
embrace the late-flowering sorts — those which bloom in May and which are 
in bloom generally at Decoration Day. These latter are quite distinct in 
every way from the former; they grow taller and have larger flowers. They 
should be planted in large masses to obtain the best eftects, but even singly 
or in small groups they are distinct and showy. 

As cut flowers they are superior to the earlier \-arieties on account 
of their longer stems and greater substance, remaining a week m good 
condition after being cut. They are very hardy, and may be left where they 




A group of crocuses 



are planted; in fact, they improve each season. This type is generally 
known as Darwin tulips. 

Narcissi come next in importance. The varieties of this prime favourite 
are " too numerous to mention. " SufKce it to say that, for general planting, 
the sorts embraced under the general head of daffodils, with the white- 
flowered poet's narcissus, are the best. From four to eight inches apart, 
according to the variety and size of the bulb, are the proper distances for 
planting. These are especially adapted for planting in mixed borders, 
among hardy herbaceous plants, between shrubbery, and along walks and 
drives. They thrive in almost any soil or situation, although they attain 
greater perfection when liberally treated. The best place for them is in a 
thoroughly drained, moderately rich, friable soil in which is a fair amount of 



Bulbs 



127 



sharp sand or sandy leaf 

mould. If the soil is not thus 
constituted naturally, it will 
amply reward the planter to 
thus prepare it. Where it is 
at all possible, a position 
should be selected for plant- 
ing them where they will 
be shaded by trees or a 
building, as the flowers on 
the whole will be larger, and, 
above all, they will remain 
in perfection for a greater 
period, than if planted in an 
exposed position where they 
get the full rays of the sun. 
They should be planted so 
that the crown of the bulb 
is three inches below the 
surface. The jonquils, being 
much smaller bulbs than the 
general variety of daffodils, 
should be planted only two 
inches under the surface. 
The foliage should be al- 
lowed to ripen thoroughly 
before being removed, after 
which a top-dressing of loam 
and thoroughly rotted ma- 
nure will be found of great 
advantage. For outdoor 
planting, special mention 
should be made of the follow- 
ing: Ard Righ, Emperor, 
Horsfieldii, Princeps, 
Trumpet Major, Incompar- 
able, Sir Watkin, Maximus, 




The poet's narcissus. (N 



128 How to Make a Flower Garden 

Stella, Poeticus ornatus, Biflorus, Van Sion, Orange Phoenix, Alba plena 
odorata. and all the jonquils. 

Scillas have already been mentioned as being preeminently fitted for 
planting on the lawn. Like all the bulbs, they prefer a light rich soil. The 
Amoena or Sibirica prsecox is the most useful and beautiful of the species. 
These, by the way, are commonly known as squills. The flowers are pro- 
duced in wonderful profusion, a beautiful rich blue, and appear almost 
before the snow has vanished. It is a gem among bulbous flowering 
plants, so beautiful that no garden is complete without some. Planted 
among the rocks or in an artificially made rock garden, it is a strikingly 
beautiful object. Scilla campanulata is also a charming variety, and can 
be had in blue, white, and rose. This is commonly known as the wood 
hyacinth. A colony may remain undisturbed in the ground for a number 
of years, as the natural crowding does not seem to injure them. 

Another very useful bulbous plant is the snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis. 
It should be planted in masses and closely together, about an inch apart. 
Combined in beds with scillas or chionodoxas the effect is charming. It is 
best to plant where they can be allowed to remain from year to year; 
along the edges of hardy borders is a fitting place for it. There are new and 
improved sorts, such as Elwes's Giant and King of the Snowdrops, which 
are superior to the original type. 

Chionodoxa, commonly known as "glory of the snow," is an exquisite 
plant, blooming early in the spring and bearing ten to fifteen scilla-like 
flowers, a beautiful intense blue with a white center. As an edging for a 
shrubbery, or bed of hardy perennial plants in connection with scillas and 
snowdrops, or for planting on the lawn, or in out-of-the-way places as 
" naturalised " plants, they are unequalled. Cultivate the same as scillas. 

Trillium grandifloruiii, the great American wood-lily, as it is called, 
is another very useful bulbous plant. This should be planted early in the 
fall in soil which has plenty of sand or leaf -mould. The flowers are ptire 
white, changing to soft rose. 

Bulbocodium, or spring colchicum, is one of the favourites for the bulb 
garden. B. vcrnuin is the best known and is a charming early spring-blooming 
plant. It bears rosy purple flowers, and is one of the first to make its 
appearance in spring. It succeeds well in any garden soil, and should 
be planted about three inches deep in clumps or masses. Its chief interest 
is that it generally blooms a week before the crocus. 



Bulbs 



131 



The camassia is also a very desirable bulbous plant among others 
in the garden. It resembles the common blue scilla, but is much larger, 
Its leaves being about a foot long and very narrow. It is commonly known 
as Indian Ouamash. It does best in sheltered and partly shaded positions. 
The flower-stalks grow from two to three teet high and bear twenty or 
more blue flowers each two inches across. It is fine for cutting Grown 
in a mass it is very effective Grape hyacinths should be in every garden. 

Crown imperials are among , , 

the most showy of bulbous plants. 
There are dwarf varieties which 
are very effective m the garden 
They may be left untouched for 
years. In the blooming season, 
should the weather prove dry, the 
ground must be frequently well 
soaked with water, that the growth 
may be vigorous, or the flowers 
of the following season will be 
deficient. 

Erythronium, the dog's-tooth 
violet, is a charming plant. The 
foliage is usually variegated. A 
mass of this is an attractive ob- 
ject in the garden at all times. 
There are numerous species m 
cultivation. The California kinds 
are worth especial study. 

Last, but not least, are the 
anemones. The varieties of .4. corouaria form a most brilliant group 
of spring-flowering bulbous plants, producing enormous quantities of 
bloom of every shade of colour, both double and single, and of very 
varied form. Though perfectly hardy south of Washington, District 
of Columbia, they are not entirely so in this latitude, but if planted 
in September or October, about two inches deep and protected by a cold- 
frame in winter, they will flower magnificently in spring. The tubers, 
however, keep well through the winter, and may be planted out in 
spring for summer blooming. 






^ 4r> 



132 How to Make a Flower Garden 

The fall is also the best time to plant lilies, but as they are generally 
regarded as summer bloomers they will not be treated m this connection. 
It is possible to plant lilies in the spring, but the bulbs start early and should 
not have a setback. In this connection I would remmd the reader that 
many other bulbous and herbaceous plants, as peonies and iris, which are 
commonly planted in the spring, can be planted also in the fall. 

There are many other bulbs and roots which can be planted in the 
fall which are not specifically mentioned, but I trust that enough has 
been said to create a wider interest in this beautiful and valuable section 
of flowering plants. 



II. Practical Directions for Bulb Culture 
By Edward J. Canning 

Fall bulbs are so called because they are received and planted in the fall 
of the year; also in contradistmction to summer bulbs, which are planted in 
spring. They are nearly all imported from Holland. Millions of them are 
brought into this country during September, October, and November. 
Fall bulbs include all those early spring-flowering bulbous plants which 
brighten up the garden almost before the dreary days ot winter are past. 
Crocuses, snowdrops, scillas, star of Bethlehem, narcissus, daffodils, jonquils, 
tulips, and Dutch hyacinths are household words. 

From the little attention that these plants require, together with their 
cheapness, there is no reason wdiy any one who may possess only a few feet 
of ground should not have and enjoy them, and extend their cultivation in 
grounds of more ample proportions. Their requirements are simple indeed. 
We plant them in the fall because it is the season in which they make their 
roots and establish themselves w^ell in the ground ready to begin work in 
spring. All bulbs must be well rooted before active growth can take place 
aboveground. In this they are somewhat analogous to seeds which, when 
germinating, always make the roots first, so as to be able to draw nourish- 
ment from the soil to support the growth aboveground. 

The depth of planting fall bulbs varies with the different species, but 
all should have a covering of two inches of soil above the top of the bulb. 
Therefore, hvacinths and narcissus should be planted five to six inches deep 



Bulbs 



133 



according to size of bulbs, tulips four inches, crocuses, snowdrops and bulbs 
of similar size about three inches deep. 

Bulbs are not fastidious in regard to soil, though a loamy soil with a 
tendency to sandiness is best. The best fertiliser is thoroughly decayed 
farmyard manure, or ground bone meal, and only a very moderate dressing 
of either, which should be forked into the soil when preparing to plant. 

They may be planted in the mixed flower border, or in formal beds 
or borders near the dwelling, or 
best of all (tulips and hyacinths 
excepted) they may be naturalised 
in such positions as under decid- 
uous trees, on grassy slopes around 
the edges of lawns or shrubbery 
borders, along the edges of woods, 
or in any wild or semi-wild positions 
in company with trilliums, anem- 
ones, decentras, and many other 
early spring-flowering plants. A 
bank of crocuses under large decid- 
uous trees or irregular colonies of 
daffodils along the edges of woods 
or on grassy banks is a beautiful 
sight, while snow-drops, scillas and 
star of Bethlehem are well adapted 
for naturalising along woodland 
paths and in open groves. In such 
positions they should be planted in 
quantities in order to be effective, and as irregular as possible, and not 
in square or circular colonies. Always aim to make them look as natural 
as possible. 

When once planted, most bulbs will increase and flower each year 
provided the foliage is not cut off. This must be allowed to ripen off 
naturally, which will take until the end of June. 

Tulips and hyacinths, being so highly cultivated or so far developed 
from the wild types, do not lend themselves well for planting in wild or 
semi-wild positions. They are best adapted for formal beds or borders 
near the dwelling. Tulips and hyacinths should not be planted together in 




'34 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



the same border or bed, because the times of flowering diflier, and unless 
very carefully selected and arranged the colours of the flowers will not har- 
monise well. Before planting, the beds should be given a dressing of fertiliser, 
then dug and raked very smooth. The bulbs should then be placed regularly 
all over the bed before they are planted, so that each bulb shall have just so 
much to develop — hyacinths seven inches apart, and tulips five. They should 

then be carefully planted and the 
bed left very smooth and even. 
The flowers of both tulips and 
hyacinths embrace a good range 
of colour, and colour designs can 
be made when planting. Sugges- 
tions for the same may be found 
in almost any bulb catalogue. It 
is important in planting tulips 
to plant the early-flowering kinds 
together and the late-flowering 
kinds by themselves, and not in the 
same bed. When a bed of tulips 
is in bloom, every flower should be 
open at the same time; also with 
both hyacinths and tulips, the 
flowers should all be of an even 
height, to secure which the bulbs 
must be planted of an even depth. 

Beds of jonquils and daffo- 
dils are also very effective, and 
the bulbs require to be planted the 
White Hyacinths Same distaucc apart and the same 

depth as hyacinths. Crocuses, scillas and other small bulbs are more 
suitable for narrow borders than formal flower beds. They should be 
planted three inches apart. 

Although fall bulbs are quite hardy, yet sometimes during the winter 
we have sudden thaws sufificient to excite t?he bulbs to grow. To prevent 
this, w'hen planted in beds it is better to give them a light covering of partially 
decayed leaves or light mulch about two inches deep, but it should not be 
put on till after the ground is frozen hard, for if placed on before this mice 




Bulbs 135 

will often nest under it and take their meals out of the bulbs. When 
planted in wild or semi-wild situations the natural covering of leaves 
and grass is sufficient. 

Many people discard their tulips and hyacinths after the season of 
flowering is past, as they never give the same satisfaction a second season. 
If one has not the heart to do this, and the beds are wanted for the summer 
bedding plants, the bulbs should be carefully lifted, the flower stalks cut off, 
and the bulbs planted again closely in shallow trenches in some shaded, 
secluded place where they may finish ripening their foliage and may 
rest until fall. They may then be lifted and planted in irregular shaped 
colonies in the mixed flower border, where they should remain permanently. 
Daffodils, crocuses and other bulbs do better if they can remain in the 
beds when once planted, but if the beds are wanted for summer-flowering 
plants the bulbs may be treated the same as tulips and hyacinths. 

Almost all bulb catalogues designate the kinds most suitable for bedding, 
together with the colours, single or double, early- or late-flowering, and 
quotations per dozen, per hundred, and per thousand; and while the 
best prices will, of course, secure the best quality of bulbs, which will 
produce rather the largest flowers, yet I do not ever remember to have 
seen a poor variety of any of the fall bulbs. 



CHAPTER VIII 

The Water Garden and the Mosquito Problem 

By William Lyman Underwood 

OME years ago, in a low-lying meadow near my house, in 
Belmont, Massachusetts, I made an artificial pond in which 
to grow water-lilies — a modest affair seventy feet in length, 
and varying in width from five to fifteen feet. Here I 
'°°^^^ ' planted several different kinds of hardy pond-lilies and other 
aquatic plants, some of which bloom from May until October. The 
\-enture has been so successful, and the little sheet of water has 
added such a charming feature to the landscape, that I am tempted to 





138 



How to Make a Flower Garden 








IVJ=. I'l Wni I.yiii.in Ur 

nd moderately dry edge " 



tell my experience as an amateur water gardener, that others may, if 
they wish, go and do likewise. 

The meadow where the pond is situated was rather damp, and at times 
quite wet and boggy. The soil is a black and hea^'y peaty loam, with a 
subsoil of gravel and fine blue clay. This particular spot was naturally so 
wet and difficult to drain thoroughly that it seemed admirably adapted for 
this purpose, especially so as it was well protected at the north from the 
cold winds by a hea\'y growth of willow trees; while nothing intervened 
to the south to cut off the sun's rays, which shone all day upon it. 

With these natural advantages in my favour, the work of building the 
pond seemed already well begun. In order to clearly show the outline, and 
to form some idea of what the shape ought ultimately to be, to conform 
with the lay of the adjoining land, stakes were driven into the ground at 
intervals of every two feet along the prospective margin, and the excavation 
of the soil was begun. Through the center of the pond the dirt was removed 
to a depth of five feet, well down to the gravel and clay. During the work 
of excavation, three blind or stone drains were encoimtered. They led 



The Water Garden and the Mosquito Problem 



139 



into a meadow brook which flows close by, and, fearing that perhaps they 
might at times drain oft' the water from the pond faster than it would come 
in, particularly as the brook, only forty feet away, is nearly three feet below 
the level of the garden, and to guard against any possible loss of water in 
this way, the whole bottom of the pond was covered with four inches of 
well-puddled clay. This measure, of course, while it prevented any water 
from escaping, also served to keep out all ground water. So, not wishing 
to depend entirely upon the rainfall for a supply, a line of two-inch iron 
pipe was laid from the pond, up to the bed of the small brook several hundred 
feet, to a point where a small dam held the water back about a foot above 
the level of the garden. This gave an abundance of water at all times, 
though all that is necessary is just enough to keep the pond fresh and make 
up for any evaporation. 

At times it may become necessary to draw off the water from the garden, 
in order to set out new plants or to remove some varieties that are growing 
too fast and crowding out others. In order to accomplish this, a discharge 
pipe was run into the bed of the brook, and at its upper end was fastened 




So near and yet so far 



140 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



into the bottom of a small tub placed in the deepest part of the pond, the 
tub being used to keep the mud away from the outlet and so prevent the 
pipe from being clogged. For an overflow, a brass standpipe was fitted 
into the outlet, and in order that the water might be kept at any desired 
level, this pipe was made in several sections which fitted one into another, 
and by putting in or taking out a number of sections the depth of water 
is easily controlled. 

Everything being in readiness, about eighteen inches of soil was replaced 
over the lining of clay, the slope of the bottom being made very gradual; 




particularly along the shores, that the conditions might be favourable for 
the growth of suitable marginal plants. On top of this natural soil was 
placed a foot of compost, made by thoroughly mixing two parts of the richest 
loam with one part of well-rotted cow manure. The balance of the excavated 
dirt was graded back upon the high land which formed the south shore of 
the pond. The land on the north, or lower side, was left at its original 
level, and by this treatment a most natural efTect was secured. The entire 
margin was well sodded, in order to secure a firm and moderately dry edge, 



The Water Garden and the Mosquito Problem 143 











breed in the absi 



and a row of stepping-stones was placed between the outlet and the shore, 
thus bringing the overflow pipe within easy reach. 

Along the lower margin were set out marsh marigolds, and forget-me- 
nots, and different varieties of water-grasses. Arrow-head and pickerel- 
weed were also started along the grassy border, and all along the farther 
and broader end of the pond were grouped masses of large Japanese iris, 
to serve as a background for the water-lilies, which were to be the principal 
features of the water garden. When ready for planting, the water was 
drawn out of the pond until only a few inches remained. Planks were then 
placed upon the bottom, and, walking out upon them, I set out the lilies, 
pushing the rhizomes firmly down into the muddy soil. 

After the plants were all in place, in order to keep the water as warm 
as possible until the new growth began, the pond was kept about half full. 
Then, as the tender foliage started and the lily-pads came near the surface, 
the level was raised a few mches at a time. Where it is not practicable to 
control the garden in this way, the rootstocks may be pushed down into the 
mud with a long pole ; but the growth will be much more rapid and vigorous 
if, at the start, the water can be kept quite shoal and warm. The pond was 



144 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



first planted in May, and by the middle of August the lilies were well in 
bloom. They may be set out at any time during the summer, but an early 
start is necessary if they are to flower the same year. 

There is another important and interesting feature of this pond that is 
of special significance : it has become the home of a large number of beauti- 
ful goldfish that have thriven and multiplied in its waters ever since the 
pond was started eight years ago. It is not generally realised, as it should 
be, that goldfish will live in our natural northern waters ; for, as I shall show, 
their presence in many small ponds may be of vital importance to us. It 
is now known that a certain mosquito conveys from man to man the germs 
of malaria and yellow fever, and it has been found that water is absolutely 
essential to its life in the earlier stages. The mosquito lays its eggs upon 
the surface of some quiet pool, where, after a few days, they hatch out, 
filling the water with thousands of "wigglers," or larvae, and after another 
transformation eventually become the adult mosquito. To exterminate the 
mosquitoes, we must destroy their breeding places. Fill up or drain ofif 
the pools where the " wigglers " are to be found and, where it is not practicable 




Lyn..tn Underwood 



Goldfish Feeding on mosquito larvae 



The Water Garden and the Mosquito Problem 145 

to adopt either of these methods, cover the surface of the water with kerosene 
oil, thus cutting off the supply of air from the larvae and smothering them. 

But what shall we do with the water garden, which appears so perfectly 
suited for raising mosquitoes? Shall we fill it up, drain it off, or pour oil 
upon its troubled waters ? If his pond should prove as great a source of 
pleasure to the reader as mine has been to me, he will be loath to adopt any 
of these radical measures. Repeated and diligent search had failed to 
reveal the presence of any mosquito larvae in my pond, and this seemed 
all the more strange when, in the quiet waters of the brook not fifty 
feet away, I discovered thousands of active "wigglers. " Reflecting upon 
this fact, it seemed probable that the goldfish were holding the mosqui- 
toes in check in the pond, while in the brook the insects were breeding 
in comparative safety. 

To test the correctness of this theory, I took two small goldfish from the 
pond and placed them in an aquarium where they could feed upon mosquito 
larvas and be under observation. The result was as anticipated. Whenever 
they were dropped into the water the "wigglers" disappeared in short order. 

When it is once understood that goldfish are useful, as well as orna- 
mental and comparatively hardy, it is to be hoped that they will be introduced 
into many small bodies of water, such as lily ponds and water gardens, 
where mosquitoes are likely to breed. In my experience, these fish can easily 
be reared in any sheltered pond where the water is shoal and warm. 

What country town is there that does not have some swamps containing 
pools that are dillicult and perhaps impossible to drain ? Where it is possible, 
let every swamp be drained ; but let no hasty judgment condemn and banish 
all quiet country pools, for many of them, by proper treatment, can be 
improved, and made not only wholesome but charming features of beauty 
in the landscape. 



CHAPTER IX 



Water-lilies and Other Aquatic Plants 

By William Thicker 

XY one who is planning to grow water-lilies will do well to 
study the conditions under which they thrive in nature. 
Water-lilies do not grow in every pond ; they flourish 
only in places that are exposed to full sunshine, and 
which are not subjected to violent freshets or strong 
springs that keep the water cold even in summer time. Another thing, 
Nature seldom plants more than one species in one pond. Note also 
that natural ponds annually receive an accumulation of dead leaves, and 
that the surface water constantly adds silt, etc., to the accumulation of 





148 How to Make a Flower Garden 

vegetable matter which furnishes abundant plant -food for nymphgeas and 
other aquatic plants. 

The location of the pond may first receive attention. A water-lily 
pond should be at a convenient distance from the dwelling-house and easy 
of access. Its near proximity to the dwelling-house can not be considered 
a menace, since mosquitoes may be kept in check by means of goldfish. 
If possible, select a site where the ground slopes gently toward the pond; 
but if the ground is level or nearly so, the soil taken from the excavation 
may be used to form a bank on one side or end, which, by judicious planting, 
will present a pleasing and natural effect. The water-level of the pond 
should be a few inches below the ground-line. 

Having selected the site and decided as to the shape, it will be a wise 
policy to err on the side of making the basin too large rather than too small. 
If you have never grown water-lilies and do not know what " tropical vegeta- 
tion" means, it will be difficult for you to realise how much space should 
be allotted a given number of plants. It is one of the commonest mistakes 
to crowd a great many plants into a little pool. Three water-plants are 
put into an ordinary tub, where there is not sufficient space for one. Of 
course there is a limit to the size of a pond, but I would suggest going to the 
extreme; it is far better than having to enlarge afterward, or having to 
content oneself with a pond that is too small. However, I should not 
advise any one to make a pond so large that it will be out of proportion 
with the rest of the garden. 

The best way to make a pond will in most cases be the simplest and the 
most nature-like. Study the existing conditions in every case, and make 
use of the materials at hand. Clay, gravel, rough stones or bricks may be 
used for construction. Puddled clay will make a water-tight basin. The 
clay should be at least four inches thick on sides and bottom. If boxes or 
tubs are to be used, the bottom should be covered with sand, otherwise 
the soil may be placed on the clay bottom. Cover the sides with sod. There 
is much labour in constructing a pond of clay, and, although it may appear 
cheap, I would not recommend this method of construction unless the clay 
can be had for the digging and all hauling can be done without hiring teams. 
Gravel anri like materials that can be used as concrete will answer the purpose 
well. The sides and bottom should be covered with four inches of the same, 
with a facing of Portland cement an inch thick. Rough stones laid in cement 
may also be used for the same purpose. The walls should be about eight 




E - 

^ c 



Water-lilies and Other Aquatic Plants 



151 



inches thick, and finished with a facing of Portland cement; the bottom 
should be constructed in Hke manner. When the above-named materials 
are used, the sides should be flar- 
ing. The depth when finished 
should not be less than two feet. 
The grovmd should by no means be 
new or made ground. A water- 
lily basin needs a solid substratum, 
so that settling in any part is out 
of the question, for should there 
be a leak the consequences will be 
disastrous. The best and most 
practicable method is to construct 
the basin of brickwork. This work °""* '" ^ ''™">- >^'' 

may be entrusted to a local bricklayer, and an approximate cost can 
be given or ascertained beforehand. The walls should be eight inches 
thick, built perpendicular. The joints should be all well filled in as the 
work proceeds. The wall may be tapered near the top, finishing with 
a four-inch brick laid flat. The walls on the inside, as far as they are 
tapered, should receive an inch-thick plaster of Portland cement. The 
bottom, or floor, may be grouted or laid in with brickbats or whole bricks, 
and should afterward receive a good facing of cement. 

Before anything is done in the way of construction, the water-supply 
must be assured, especially if there is danger of prolonged drought. Provision 
must also be made against a freshet after hea\'y rains, in case the pond is 





The white 



hundred and twenty feet, belonging to Mrs. M. S. Gai 



pond fifty by one 



152 How to Make a Flower Garden 

fed by a stream ; otherwise the occupants might be swept clean out of the 
pond, or buried under a mass of sand or other material carried along by the 
freshet. In all artificial basins an overflow should be provided, to serve 
the double purpose of overflow and outlet. The size of the pipe may vary 
from two to four inches, according to the size of the pond. A four -inch 
pipe is large enough for a pond of five thousand superficial feet. A smaller 
pipe than two inches would carry off the surplus water of a small pond, 
but it is liable to become choked with light floating matter. The overflow 
pipe should be made in at least two sections, with screw joints, an elbow 
terminating the outlet and level with the bottom of the basin, or slightly 
depressed, the overflow pipe being fitted into the latter and terminating 
with a collar. Never plant a newly constructed basin or pond built of 
masonry or concrete without giving the same a thorough soaking and 
change of water; otherwise, the caustic property of the cement will destroy 
the plants, fish, or any living thing. 

The selection of varieties requires much careful consideration. Not 
all nymphaeas are adapted for every mode of culture. For example, any 
one who selects for tub culture such a rampant grower as Nymphcca tuberosa 
is sure to be disappointed. It is difficult to give advice, because individual 
tastes must be consulted. Some prefer decided colours, others white or 
pink, or yellow shading to red. The locality and section of the 
country must also be taken into consideration. In the northern and 
eastern States and mountainous districts better results are obtained from 
the hardy nymphaeas and nelumbiums. The season is often short for the 
latter, and tender nymplisas, if grown at all, should be extra large plants; 
as it is not safe to plant out before Jime ist, and in some sections not 
before June loth. In such cases it is better to confine the selection 
of tender nymphseas to the day-flowering kinds. Aroiind New York City 
and south and southwestward any species or variety can be grown. A 
selection may be made comprising all nymphaeas, both hardy and tender, 
day- and night-flowering, nelumbiums victor as, and miscel aneous plants. 
The season begins in April, and by the latter end of the month Nymphaa 
Laydekeri rosea is in blossom. The latter can be relied upon every time; 
it is not only the first — it is also the last of the season. Some of the hardy 
nymphaeas are short-lived, or rather the season of flowering is short — e. 7.,the 
Cape Cod pink pond-lily, N . odorata rosea. In fact, the typical A'^. odorata 
and its numerous hybrids, together with N. tuberosa and its forms, are also 



Water-lilies and Other Aquatic Plants 



153 



short-lived. Their season is on the wane by the Fourth of July. Although 
the European varieties hold out longer, the flowers are much smaller, and 
colours begin to fade. But by Independence Day the nelumbiums in many 
shades of colour attract our attention, as do also the tender nymphasas. 
From July until September the tender nymphasas, with their gorgeous colours 
and gigantic size, dominate the water garden, and the hardy ones still remain- 
ing in blossom are almost totally 
eclipsed by their Oriental brethren. 

An aquatic basin twenty by fifty 
feet will afford a superficial space 
of one thousand feet. The soil in 
which the nymphseas are to be 
planted may be placed directly on 
the bottom, or, better still, boxes 
three to four feet square and one 
foot deep may be used instead. The 
soil should be a moderately stift", 
fibrous loam, and thoroughly rotten 
manure, one part manure to two of 
loam, the whole being composted, if 
possible, in the fall for spring use 
In a pond of the above dimensions 
ten plants of tender nymphasas will 
cover the whole surface. It is not 
unusual, in the region of Philadeh 
phia, for a single plant of the night - 
flowering varieties to measure tweh i 
feet across. Thus, allowing each 
plant its individuality, six plants 
of tender nymphseas will suffice for such a pond. But supposing the pond 
is planted with hardy nymphgeas, it would require three of the latter in place 
of one tender nymphasa — at least for the first season, if immediate effect is 
desired. Instead of planting in clumps of three, any one who prefers variety 
may set one plant each of twelve distinct varieties. Hardy and tender 
nymphaeas may be grown in the same pond, if desired ; also lotus in variety. 
The latter must necessarily be confined to a given space, being grown either 
in a large tub or in a walled -in section. 




purpurea). This plant 
side of a pond 



154 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



The following twelve hardy nymphaeas represent the best ("regardless 
of their selling prices) adapted to an artificial aquatic basin, the best 
six being marked with a*: Arethusa, Andreana, Gloriosa. *James Brydon, 




regia in flowe 



(The upturned leaf-margin of ttie VI 



*Marliacea albida, *Marliacea chromatella, *Marliacca rosea, Marliacea 
ftammea, Marliacea rubra punctata, Robinsoni, *William Doogue, *William 
Falconer. 

The question may arise as to the omission of such grand varieties as 
A^. Gladstoniana , X . tubcrosa Richardsonii, and A'', odorata Carolmiaiia. They 
are out of place in an aquatic basin of ordinary size, because their growth 
is too vigorous ; they are better adapted to the natural pond, and to places 
where they do not require to be replanted periodically. Other charming 
varieties, such as N. Laydekeri rosea, N. helvola, etc., are also omitted; they 
are so small that they are better adapted to small pools, fountain basins, 
and tubs. However, they may be planted in the same pond with strong- 
growing species, provided there is a suitable corner where the more vigorous 
plants will not encroach upon their domain. 

If any one wants twelve tender nymphaeas, six of them being day-flowering 
and six night-flowering, I should recommend: A'. Capensis, blue; N. gracilis, 
white; Mrs. C. W. Ward, pink; A', pulcherrima, blue; Wm. Stone, blue; 
N. Zanzibarensis rosea, pmk; A', dcntata, white; George Huster, crimson; 



Water-lilies and Other Aquatic Plants 



155 



Frank Trelease, crimson; O'Marana, pmk-red; Jubilee, white; TV. rubra 
rosea, carmine. 

Nelumbiums are all good, and all require most liberal culture to obtain 
the best results. Those of decided colours are: N. album grandifloriim, 
white; A'', kcriiicsiiniin, pink; A', roseitiii, deep pink. The most vigorous and 
commendable varieties are: Shiroman, white, double, extra choice; A^. 
Pckinensis ritbnwi, brilliant rosy carmine, large and handsome, and its double 
counterpart, A^. Pckinensis riibrum plenum. The forms of A^ pygmcea are 
beautiful, but they do not command attention beside the nobler species 
of the type. 

As tub plants the tender nymphaeas are disappointing, because they 
are such rampant growers and feeders that, when confined to the limits of 
an ordinary tub or half -barrel, they are soon starved almost to death. The 
small quantity of plant-food is soon exhausted; the leaves assume a sickly 
yellow-green colour; and tubers are actually found in summer, when the 
plants should be m vigorous condition and producing flowers in abundance. 
If tubs are used at all, have such as will measure three or more feet m diameter. 




Anticipate the wants of the plants, and if the plants are vigorous give them 
a liberal supply of liquid manure occasionally. They revel in our warmest 
summer weather, and are quite at home in the Victoria pond at a temperature 



156 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



of eighty-five to ninety degrees. Many failures occur through early trans- 
planting. The check caused by digging, shipping, etc., which cannot be 
avoided, together with the change of temperature and exposure, are responsible 
for numerous losses which the vender is unjustly expected to shoulder. 
The proper time to plant nelumbium tubers is when the prevailing conditions 
of the weather are conducive to immediate growth. Bear in mind that 
tender nymphaeas do not start into growth with the hardy kinds, and 
require different treatment. 




Victoria regia is, indeed, the "royal" water-lily, and, under proper 
conditions, is of easy culture. It is not a native of North America, and 
cannot be grown as a hardy water-lily. It requires artificial heat. Some 
growers believe the Victoria can be grown in a natural pond as well as a 
tender nymphsea, but very few if any such cases are in evidence. The first 
on record was grown in North Carolina, and even there it was not safe to 
plant before the latter part of June. Occasionally plants will succeed in 
aquatic basins in and around Philadelphia without artificial heat, but the 
seasons are uncertain, and the results may more frequently be failure than 



Water-lilies and Other Aquatic Plants 



157 



success. In localities where the summer days and nights are hot, as in 
St. Louis, Victorias can be grown successfully without artificial heat. In 
altitudes where cool nights are experienced in summer, it is useless to 
trv to dispense with artificial heat. The only royal road to success with 
I 'ictoria regia is to grow it m an artificial pond where heat may be applied 
during the early season. A temperature of eighty -five to ninety degrees 




must be maintained. By the end of June matured plants are in evidence, 
which will withstand a lower temperature with impunity; but, as a rule, 
we have warm weather during July and August, and the plants continue 
growing and flowering. The end of June is about the right time to plant 
Victoria rcgia without artificial heat, but it will be August before the 
plants arrive at maturity, when the season is also well advanced. 

Victoria Trickeri succeeds best in a temperature ten degrees lower 



1^8 How to Make a Flower Garden 

than V. regia, and is often difficult to raise. It is ruinous to seedlings, if 
they are at all late, to try to force them. The growth will be soft and liable 
to attacks of plant-lice, and when plant-lice take up their abode on a young 
leaf and remain unmolested the plant is soon crippled for life. The seed of 
1'. Trickeri germinates in a temperature of from sixty-five to seventy-five 
degrees, and seventy-five to eighty-five degrees is the limit. Every precau- 
tion must be taken against greenfly, and there must be an abundance of 
light and ventilation as long as the plants remain under glass. Plants may 
be set out in the open with more certainty of success than with ]'. rcgia, but 
seldom before the end of June. However, if a temperature of seventy-five 
can be assured before then, it is safe to plant out Victorias. When an artificial 
temperature of eighty degrees can be maintained, even if it is by the middle 
of May, plant out in summer quarters, and by the end of June it will be safe 
to remove all protecting devices, such as steam pipes, frames, or sashes. 

Nymphaeas, neliombiums and Victorias are the favourites, but there 
are numerous other plants that deserve attention and which add considerably 
to the general appearance of a water garden. Where an assortment of 
nympheeas is planted, the tender or tropical varieties break the monotony 
by throwing their flowers well above the foliage, although this feature is 
objectionable to some because it is so unlike the habit of our native pond- 
lilies. Something strong-growing and tall is really needed. Clumps of 
papyrus can be grown on the margin of the pond. Their tall, graceful plumes 
are unequalled by any other aquatic or subaquatic plant. The umbrella 
plant, Cyperus alternifolius, is another useful plant. The hedychium, or 
butterfly lily, with its canna-like foliage and white flowers, is worth growing; 
also the giant arrow-head, Sagittaria Montevidensis, Sagittaria falcata, and 
ynssiaa longijolia are very desirable plants. These are all tender, and need 
the protection of a greenhouse or warm shelter in winter. 

Among hardy plants I would mention Sagittaria Japonica /?, pi., 
Acorns Japonicits variegatns, TypJia latifolia, Pontederia cordata, and LytJirnm 
roseum supcrbnin. 

A few of the minor aquatic plants may also find shelter in the large 
aquatic basm. but they must be watched carefully, for, although they are 
diminuti\-e, they are rapid growers, soon interfering with the develop- 
ment of the n^^mphasas if not kept in bounds. The water hyacinths, Eichhornia 
crassipes major and E. azurea, are more curious than beautiful. The water- 
poppy, Limtwdiaris Huinboldtii, is a very striking yellow flower, and blooms 



Water-lilies and Other Aquatic Plants 



159 



profusely, but it grows prodigiously, and will soon fill a pond. The water- 
snowflake, LimnantJiemitm Iiidiciim, is another very attractive plant, with 
pure white flowers covered with hirsute glands, giving it the appearance 
of a flake of snow. Like all limnanthemums, or " floating hearts," the flowers 
are produced on the petioles near the leaf; after several flowers are produced, 
a runner with another leaf and bunch of flowers follows, and so on, and very 







of a Vicloria leaf, sho 



soon a large surface is covered. These and many other plants are interesting, 
but because of their wild and rambling habits I prefer to keep them out of 
the pond where choice nymphffias are grown. 

A very useful and desirable plant to grow, and one which can be had 
in flower in winter in a small space, is the cape pond-weed, Aponogeton 
distachynni. It is perfectly hard}^, and one of the first to put in an appearance 
in spring, but during hot summer weather it is liable to rest. The flowers 
are white, borne on a forked spike, and very sweet-scented. 

I may also mention here another tender aquatic plant that is travelling 
northward and proving itself hardy, and where so it is liable to become 
a pest, viz., the parrot's feather, Myriophylliim proserpiitacoides. When 
grown in a large tub on a pedestal or a vase, where its branches can droop 
over the edges, it is a handsome plant; but on the margin of a pond, stream, 



i6o How to Make a Flower Garden 

or ditch, where the ground is wet or water shallow, it is of marvellous growth. 
The reason why these plants are seldom seen in such a luxurious condition 
is that people attempt to grow too many plants in a small pond or even in a 
tub, and consequently they are starved. 

Many other plants that are subaquatic are deserving of general culture, 
but as yet are rarely seen in the garden, their proper place being the "bog 
garden." Many odd and curious yet beautifuh plants are met with in this 
group — sarracenias, or pitcher plants, the Darlingtonia Califoriiica, Drosera 
or sundew in variety, the marsh marigold {Caltha palnstris), and its double 
form, the dainty myosotis, or forget-me-not, Meiiyatitlies trifoliata, Calla 
palnstris, Helonias bullata, Lobelia cardinalis, spireas in many forms, Calopo- 
gons, and the queen of hardy orchids, Cypripediiim spectabile. Ferns, too, 
are capital for such places. The "bog garden" seems to be an EngHsh 
idea, and a good one, too, but we have never heard of any notable 
example of it in America. 



CHAPTER X 




Rock Gardens and Alpine Plants 

By Edward J. Canning 

■|OME of the most exquisite gems in the vegetable kingdom 
;j;row above the tree-hne on mountains. These alpine plants 
are of low and compact growth, herbaceous or succulent in 
character, and produce flowers of exquisite beauty and 
colouring. They grow in crevices or in pockets, often 
overhanging and completely carpeting projecting ledges of rocks. The 
attempt to cultivate these plants has led to the making of rock gardens, 
where they can be provided with all the conditions under which they grow 
naturally, except, of course, altitude, which is of the least importance. Many 
of the rarer alpine plants cannot be grown successfully unless these conditions 
are given. But a rock garden may be made to provide a home not only 
for true alpine plants, but also for a large number of interesting plants of 
small stature from much lower altitudes. A well-constructed and tastefully 
arranged rock garden can be made one of the most interesting features of a 
country home. Meaningless mounds of stones too often seen in gardens 
and in public parks are by no means the best conception of a rock garden. 
The rock garden should be a close imitation of a rocky mountain, though, 
of course, on a smaller scale. It should have crevices, pockets, and over- 
hanging ledges, and these should be filled with soils to suit the requirements 
of the different plants ; some need loamy or peaty soils, while others require 
a large proportion of crushed rock. As few gardens contain a natural rocky 
bank or hillside, most rock gardens are, therefore, "artificial," in the sense 
that they are made by man, but there is no form of gardening in which one 
has more opportunity to give expression to his natural taste than in the 
construction and planting of a rock garden. 

There are two kinds of construction, the "open" and the "under- 
ground. " The open rock garden is made from a natural bank or hillside, 
and very attractive it can be made, especially if the bank or hillside skirts 
a lawn and is entirely free from the roots of large trees. 

i6i 



i62 How to Make a Flower Garden 

The "underground" rock garden implies a cutting made below the 
natural level of the ground. This method is adopted when a garden does 
not contain a natural bank or hillside. The site chosen for an underground 
rock garden must, of course, be governed by circumstances, but, if possible, 
it should be in a secluded portion of the grounds, and near the boundary 
rather than in the center of an open place, if it can be avoided. The size 
should then be determined and the top soil all removed for replacing when 
the cutting is complete. There should be a central path of not less than five 
feet in width, and this should wind in such a manner that the cutting shall 
produce a variety of aspects to suit the requirements of the different plants. 
The cutting should begin at one end, being shallow at first, but gradually 
deepening until it is six or eight feet below the ground-level. All the soil 
*aken out should be placed above the sides of the cutting, to still further 
increase the height from the path through the center. 

The cutting should not be made regular, or smooth, but should present 
an uneven surface, with occasional mounds and depressions of various 
sizes. After the rough outline is formed, the top soil should all be placed 
evenly over the whole surface. The rocks may be then placed in position ; 
the kinds used do not greatly matter. Sandstone is perhaps best, though 
very beautiful effects may be made with common boulders. Cut stones or 
stones with fiat surfaces should not be used, as they detract from the natural 
appearance a rock garden should possess. The rocks should be of various 
sizes, and arranged so that their most rugged sides are seen. Like the rocks 
on the mountainside, they should occasionally stand out boldly, almost 
perpendicularly with the edge of the path, then withdraw into hollow recesses ; 
but they should always provide crevices, pockets, and ledges for the reception 
of the plants. If a rock garden is extensive enough, a cascade will greatly 
add to its attractiveness. Rugged stone steps leading up to a sinuous path 
among the rocks on the upper part of the rockwork, with seats placed at 
intervals, may be introduced, and will add greatly to one's enjoyment of it. 

Spring is perhaps the best time for planting the rock garden, though 
early fall is also good. The pockets and crevices should be so arranged 
that the water does not run off too readily ; at the same time it is necessary 
that they should ha\'e good drainage, if the soil below the rocks is of a clayey 
nature. They should be well filled with soils to suit the requirements of 
the different plants. For members of the heath and orchid family a peaty 
soil is best; for the mossy and starry saxifrages, low-growing sedums, and 



Rock Gardens and Alpine Plants 165 

sempervivums, and plants of a more or less succulent character, a soil largely- 
composed of crushed rock or gravel is best. Plants belonging to the primrose 
and lily families will do best in a soil consisting largely of leaf mould, 
while for the cruciferae, compositse, and most other families, a good loam 
is all that is necessary. 

It is a mistake to plant a rock garden too thickly. Each plant should 
have ample room to develop without encroaching on its neighbour, and 
those plants which have a tendency to spread unduly, or cannot easily be 
kept in check, should be rigidly excluded from the rock garden, no matter 
what other good qualities they may have, for it is difificult to eradicate them 
from a rock garden when once they are established. 

The matter of exposure requires careful study. The true alpines are 
better confined to the northern or northeastern aspects, where they would 
be protected from the midday sun. Plants of a succulent nature, such 
as the low-growing sedums, may occupy the sunniest positions. The more 
delicate alpines, such as the alpine primulas or androsaces, should be planted 
in sheltered nooks. Cerastitmis, aubrietras, dwarf phlox, and plants of 
a similar habit, should be planted to overhang ledges of rock, while the 
starry saxifrages and sempervivums may occupy holes or crevices in the 
rocks. For the steepest places, or where it may be difificult for some 
plants to obtain a foothold, the wild ginger, Asariiiu Caimdeuse, Arenaria 
Balearica, or plants of a like habit, are excellent. On the top of the rocks, 
at the most conspicuous points, or at the turn of the path, may be located 
such stately plants as Acanthus mollis. Spiraea Ariincus, or a small group 
of Aquilegia Canadensis. A small border, varying in width, and edged with 
small rough stones, looks well at the foot of the rocky slopes, and not only 
serves as an edging for the path, but will accommodate many plants, such as 
the dwarf composites, ajugas, or Iceland poppies. 

Spring-blooming bulbs may be planted in masses among the plants, 
such as narcissus, scillas, snowdrops, chionodoxas, grape hyacinths, and 
crocuses. These blossom early and do not interfere with the regular rock- 
garden plants. Tulips and Dutch hyacinths should never be planted in 
a rock garden; such highly developed forms are out of place as much as a 
Japanese chrysanthemum would be in a wild garden. 

The whole rock garden should be enclosed with either flowering shrubs 
or evergreens planted in masses. These give seclusion and shelter from 
cold winds, and in their shade native ferns may be planted. 



i66 How to Make a Flower Garden 

The approaches to a rock garden should not be too abrupt ; a few rocks 
placed outside along the path leading to the rock garden, and also among 
the shrubs which enclose it, help to give it a much more natural appearance 

The propagation of alpine and other plants suitable for rock gardens 
is simple. All may be raised from seeds, and most of them by cuttings or 
division of the plants. The writer raises his plants from seeds sown m 
February, in four -inch pots of light sandy soil, in a warm greenhouse. The 
seedlings are transplanted as soon as large enough to handle, and gradually 
given more air as they increase in size. By the end of April they are usually 
large enough to plant out permanently in the rock garden. If one does 
not have a greenhouse, the seeds may be sown m a coldframe, in shallow 
drills, in April, and transplanted to the rock garden in early fall. 

The whole rock garden should be replanted and given fresh soil about 
every four o*" ^ve years. The general care required is usually less than 
for an ordinary flower garden. In dry weather in summer the plants should 
receive water at least once in two days, and in winter the plants which over- 
hang ledges of rock should be protected with branches of hemlock or pine. 

Following is a list of some of the plants most suitable for a rock garden, 
the majority of which the writer has proved to be hardy in New England. 

Some of the Best of the True Alpines 

Androsace alpina Gentiana verna 

" sarmentosa Geum montanum 

Anemone alpina Globularia nana 

Antennaria alpina Leontopodium alpinum (Edelweiss) 

Aquilegia alpina Linaria alpina 

Armeria alpina Lychnis alpina 

Cerastium alpinum Potentilla aurea 

Cheiranthus alpinus Primula Mistassinica 

Campanula Garganica Reseda glauca 

" muralis Saxifraga caesia 

" pulla " Cotyledon 

rotundifolia " " var. pyramidalis 

" turbinata " crustata 

" Waldsteinii " geranioides 

Dianthus alpinus " longifolia ' 

' glacialis " oppositifolia 






I 



Rock Gardens and Alpine Plants 



169 



Dianthus petrajus 
Doronicum glaciale 
Draba alpina 
Epimedium alpinum 



Silene acaulis 
Soldanella alpina 
Veronica alpina 



Ajuga Genevensis 

reptans 
Antennaria plantaginea 
Anthemis nobilis 
Arabis albida 
Aubrietia deltoidea 
Cerastium Bierbersteinii 
' ' purpurascens 

tomentosum 
Daphne Cneorum 
Linnasa borealis var. Americana 
Mitchella repens 
Phlox reptans 

Plants Most Suitable 
Anemone Japonica 
Convallaria majalis 
Cornus Canadensis 
Cypripedium parviflorum 
" pubescens 

spectabile 
Dicentra spectabilis 
Dictannus albus 
Funkia lancifolia 

var. albo-marginata 
' ' o\'ata 

Sieboldiana 
Helleborus niger 



Plants for Overhanging Ledges 

Phlox subulata alba 

atropurpurea 



Sedum acre 

album 

Hispanicum 

purpureum 

Sieboldi 

var. variegatum 

ternatum 
Stellaria graminea 
Holostea 
Veronica rupestris 
Vinca minor 

FOR THE Deepest Recesses 
Lobelia cardinalis 
syphilitica 
Orchis latifolia 
Pachysandra terminalis 
Polygonatum biflorum 
Saxifraga crassifolia 
Tiarella cordifolia 
Trillium cernuum 

grandiflorum 
sessile 
Uvularia grandiflora 
Viola Canadensis 
striata 



Acanthus mollis 



Plants for Conspicuous Positions 

Acanthus candelabrum 



170 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Aquilegia Canadensis 
cserulea 
Olympica 
Dictamnus Fraxinella 
Digitalis purpurea 
Ervngium planum 



Fritillaria imperialis 
Lychnis Chalcedonica 
Papaver nudicaule 

" orientale 
Spiraea Aruncus 
Verbascum Chaixn 



Plants to Be Used in Pockets 



Achillea tomentosa 

Ptarmica var. flore pleno 
Adonis vernalis 
Allium Moly 
Alyssum argenteum 

" saxatile 

Anaphalis margaritacea 
Anemone patens var. Nuttalliana 

Pulsatilla 
Arenaria Balearica 

" graminifolia 

Armeria maritima 

var. Laucheana 
Asarum Canadense 
caudatum 
Campanula Carpatica 
persicifolia 
Ceratostigma plumbaginoides 
Colchicum autumnale 
Coreopsis rosea 
Corydalis glauca 
nobilis 
Cotyledon spinosa 
Dianthus atrorubens 
f ragrans 
" plumarius 

Dicentra Canadensis 

cucullaria 
Dodocatheon Meadia 



Doronicum Caucasicum 
Draba incana var. arabisans 
Dracocephalum nutans 
Epigasa repens 
Galax aphylla 
Gentiana acaulis 

Andrewsi 

" Saponaria 

' ' verna 

Geranium Robertianun 
Gypsophila repens 
Helianthemum lavandulaefolium 

vulgare 
Hepatica acutiloba 

" triloba 

Heuchera sanguinea 
Iberis sempervirens 

" Tenoriana 
Iris pumila 

" verna 
Leucojum aestivum 
Linum perenne 
Lotus corniculatus 
Lychnis Viscaria var. splendens 
Mertensia Virginica 
Oenothera Missouriensis 
Ornithogalum umTaellatum 
Platycodon grandiflorum var. Mariesii 
Polemonium humile 



Rock Gardens and Alpine Plants 



173 



Polemonium reptans 
Potentilla Sibbaldia 
splendens 
Primula elatior 
farinosa 
ofificinalis 
vulgaris 
Piunella grandiflora 
Pyrola rotundifolia 
Rhazya orientalis 
Rhexia Virginica 
Sabbatia campestris 
Sagina procumbens 
Saxifraga aizoides 
" Aizoon 

" granulata 

' ' umbrosa 

Scilla Sibirica 
Sedum roseum 

Calla palustris 
Lobelia cardinalis 
" syphilitica 
Myosotis palustris 
Parnassia Caroliniana 
" palustris 



Sedum spectabile 
Sempervivum arachnoideum 
" fimbriatum 

' ' Pomelii 

" tectorum 

Shortia galacifolia 
Silene Zawadskii 
Statice Gmelini 
Stokesia cyanea 
Traut^'etteria palmata 
Trollius Asiaticus 

laxus 
Tunica Saxifraga 
Veronica gentianoides 
incana 
Ponje 
spuria 
Viola cucullata 
Waldsteinia fragarioides 



Plants for Moist Places 



Pinguicula vulgaris 
Potentilla palustris 
Saxifraga Pennsylvanica 
Spigelia JMarilandica 
Spiranthes cernua 
Ranunculus flammula 



CHAPTER XI 

The Home Window Garden 

By Edith Loring Fullerton 




pE HA\'E had only three years' experience in window garden- 
ing, and have made no special study of the subject. When 
my husband and I first became interested, we found 
great difficulty in getting advice of practical value. The 
articles we read were either too technical, or so vague 
and lacking in detail that we decided to go right ahead anyhow, making 
our own blunders in our own way; and we resolved to have as much "fun" 
as possible, whatever happened. Our point of view has been expressed by 
the man of the family in a letter to a friend as follows: 

"The pictures which I send you show the entire plants (without any 
frills or fake), which were raised in this particular window by two 'simon- 
pure' amateurs, in a cheaply constructed house, alleged to be warmed by a 
gas-belching furnace during an erratic winter and a phenomenal February, 
with a further plant-handicap of a new-bom babe, which was not only first 
in our thoughts, but required a high temperature to be maintained by night 
as well as by day. Our window garden is a two-by-four aftair, composed 
of a couple of greenhouse sash which I screw on in the fall and take off in 
the spring, and you could buy the whole thing, bulbs and all, I presume, for 
five dollars." 

This is a masculine way of summing up the case. The photographs 
on pages 179, 180, and 183 are our own pictures of our own plants. If I 
may paraphrase, "they are poor things, but our own." The other pictures 
which accompany this description show better plant specimens and greater 
photographic skill, but the results, I beheve, are not beyond the reach of 
the skilled amateur. Following is a detailed description of our plant nursery: 

There are two adjoining windows on the south side of our house giving 
on to a small balcony. In October we remove the sash from these windows 
and screw up the window garden. It is really a bulk window with a glass 
roof ; the roof is on hinges, and can be raised to admit of ventilation. The 



176 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



floor of this window is half a foot below the level of the window-sills. A 
second floor resting on brackets is flush with the sills. This makes an air- 
space under the pots, which keeps out much of the cold. The balcony also 
gives good protection, else we should have to take greater precautions against 




sudden changes in temperature. The only heat the garden receives is from 
the room. We have had no trouble with the cold, however, but rather 
the reverse, and have to hang a sheet on the outside of the window to 
subdue the intensity of the sun. 

In the window we have a floor space four feet long by one and a half 
feet wide. In this we have raised and brought into bloom eighteen pots 
of Inflbs and half a dozen pots of various kinds of flowers. 



The Home Window Garden 



179: 



Last September we took up such plants from the garden as we wished 
to bring into the house — hehotrope, begonias, abutilon, ageratum, coleus, 
and geraniums. The three former were potted and cut way back; the latter 
were slips. These gave us some flowers while the bulbs were being started. 
As the bulbs came into the window we relegated the ageratum, coleus, and 
geraniums to other parts of the house where we have flower-shelves in the 
windows. We found, also, that the garden was too warm and sunny for 




The window garden as seen from the inside 



i8o 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




begonias and a little Pri inula obcoiiica, so they went into a northeast 
window, where they did wonderfully well. 

We planted the bulbs in October, and tried to follow the many directions 
we had read of. "Keep them dark," and "Keep them cool," and "Keep 
them wet," and " Keep them dry," and " Keep them in the cellar," and " Keep 
them in the attic," and "Sink the pots in the garden," and "Bury them in 
moss or sawdust in the cellar," etc.; but unforeseen demands on our 
time made it necessary for them to take care of themselves. They had 




The Home Window Garden 



183 



one good thorough watering when planted, and were placed on a dark 
swinging shelf in the cellar. A month later we found them bone dry and 
no sign of top-growth except one Paper White narcissus. 

Root-growth had apparently done very well, so, after watering, the 
entire lot were transferred to the attic, where they had subdued light. We 
kept them moist, and 
they began to grow in 
a ^'ery good succession. 

The Paper White 
narcissi were the first 
to appear, and we put 
them for a week or so 
in a west window before 
bringing them into the 
strong sunlight of the 
window garden. As 
each kind came along 
we treated it in the 
same way, and we had 
flowering bulbs from 
December loth to the 
middle of May. 
Our Spanish iris failed 
to bloom, though we 
had a splendid crop of 
foliage (which looked 
hke garlic). 

The following is 
our stock of bulbs: 
Twelve single Roman 
hyacinths (pink, blue, 
yellow, and white), two 
S cilia Ciibana, six 
freesias, three Narcissus 
gloriosns, three Nar- 
cissus Horsfieldii, four 
Narcissus Emperor, six The poiyan.hu 




184 How to Make a Flower Garden 

Narcissus poeticiis ornatns, six Spanish iris, six Paper White narcissi, six 
Giant White narcissi, six grape hyacinths, and four cyclamens. 

And this was the order and duration of their bloom : Giant and Paper 
White narcissi, December loth, for four weeks; white hyacinths, December 
20th, for three weeks; cyclamen, January ist to May 15th; freesia, 
January loth, for six weeks; blue hyacinths, January 20th, for 
two weeks; pink hyacinths, February ist, for two weeks; Narcissus 
gloriosiis, February ist, for four weeks; yellow hyacinths, February loth, 
for two weeks; Narcissus Horsfieldii, February loth, for six weeks; 
grape hyacinths, February 27th, for three weeks; Narcissus Emperor, 
February 28th, for three weeks. 

We planted the bulbs in pure sandy leaf-mould mixed with a little 
commercial fertiliser, first placing good drainage (stones) and plenty of 
charcoal in the bottom of the pot. One season we used garden soil, and 
were much troubled with caking, worms, and insects. With the leaf -mould 
we have not been troubled with worms or insects of any kind, and the earth 
has been perfection as far as consistency goes. 

We planted three Roman hyacinths in a six-inch pot (and we learned 
that it is wise to plant only one colour in a pot, as they bloom at different 
times), two Horsfieldii, three Emperor, six Poeticus, and six Spanish iris, 
each in eight -inch pots ; three Paper Whites, three Giant Whites, six freesias, 
and three Gloriosus, each in six-inch pots; six grape hyacinths in five -inch 
pot, and we found we might just as well have had twelve in the same sized 
pot. We planted two scillas in an eight-inch pot, and were much interested 
to see what they would do. The catalogue described them as bearing large 
clusters of blossoms twelve inches in diameter. When these two bulbs 
showed seven buds we decided that the entire family would have to move 
out when they bloomed. It was by planting several bulbs in one pot that 
we had such continued bloom. 

The Paper Whites were glorious, some bulbs sending up three flower- 
stalks, each one bearing twelve to fourteen blossoms. Giant Whites differ 
from the Paper Whites only in being a little larger, sturdier, and a little 
later. The white Roman hyacinths sent up many stalks from each bulb. 
They have a profusion of leaves — quite different from the common hyacinth 
that one usually sees in the garden. The white was the first to bloom, the 
blue following, then the pink, yellow, and red. The blue sent its flower- 
stalks up very high, and the leaves were so long they curled over in many 



The Home Window Garden 



187 



fantastic ways ; the pink had a tendency to bloom in the bulb, and the yellow 
kept its leaves in a pretty circle around it, reminding one of a canary in its 
cage. We had one 
peculiar red one which 
was bought for pink. It 
bloomed a good deal like 
the yellow, only it sent 
the flowers well above 
the leaves. The grape 
hyacinths are like doll- 
flowers, with their tiny 
blue bells edged with 
white. 

Cyclamen ? Well, 
cyclamen i s a perfect 
wonder ! Last year we 
had one bulb which pro- 
duced for us only four 
blossoms, and as the 
baby picked two in 
their infancy our yield 
was not great. In the 
spring it was placed 
by accident among the 
empty pots on the north 
side of the house. In 
August we found it "^l-v'* 
four new leaves pushing 
up. It was repotted and 
placed where the rain 
could reach it, and left 
alone until brought in 
the house. It started to 
bloom in January, and 
produced fifty-foiu- elegant blossoms (see page 180). Then there were 
three little cyclamens besides. One of these had four leaves and twenty- 
five blossoms. We thought it paid ! One bulb lost all its flower-buds 




ay of growin wild flower: 



i88 How to Make a Flower Garden 

but made fine growth for the following year. The blossoms were all different, 
the large one white with cerise center, one pure white, and the other a lovely- 
pink with a deeper center. 

Freesias — sweet, dainty surprises that they are ! We always marvel 
when the buds come out from among the grass-like foliage, then swell and 
burst into the exquisite yellow, bell-shaped flowers. From our six bulbs 
we had thirty-four branches of bloom, giving us six weeks of delight in 
their spicy odour. 

The whiteness of the Poeticus Omatus is equalled only by the dogwood 
of spring, and Nature certainly used her finest paint-brush when she painted 
the delicate crimson line on the edge of the cup. 

We were a little doubtful about the Narcissus gloriosits, as we had never 
seen it, but we are friends for life now, for nothing could be lovelier than 
the long stalk surmounted by fourteen little blossoms with their deep orange 
cup and cream-white perianth. We asked our little daughter to smell 
them, and she immediately said, "Apple sauce." Could anything describe 
their fragrance better'' 

Then the Horsfieldii, with its long, yellow trumpet and creamy perianth 
— a flower truly fit for the gods ! The perianth measures three and one-half 
inches in diameter, and the trumpet one and one-half inches long. 

Abutilon blooms nearly all the time, and heliotrope, when it once starts, 
is not far behind. 

As the plants came into bud we gave them fertiliser in liquid form once 
every week or two, and twice during the winter worked a little of the dry 
food into the earth, being careful not to get it too near the roots. 

A Kenilworth ivy and two kinds of asparagus — A . Sprengeri in a hanging 
basket and .4. plnmosus on a bracket — completed our garden. That is all, 
except that we feel we have summer always with us. 



CHAPTER XII. COLDFRAMES FOR WINTERING PLANTS 

I. COLDFRAMES FOR THE COUNTRY HoME 

By J. N. Gerard 




IBOUT coldframes I have always had varying opinions, some- 
times considering seriously the arrangement of all borders 
so that they could be covered, and then again loathing the 
sight of sash. It is not so much that extraneous things in 
the garden offend one's esthetic sense (for a gardener, 
curiously enough, becomes obhvious to labels, stakes, and some other non- 
ornamental things), but frames require constant attention, and in winter 
we have too much wet and slush for comfortable work out-of-doors. Of 
course, thousands of amateurs have frames of violets and pansies, usually 
near the house, from which they gather pleasure as well as flowers — if they 
have good luck. That is easy enough; but speaking in a broader way of 
the full use of frames in a garden, the problem becomes more difficult. 
Any one who amuses himself with a general collection of plants will 
find that frames or some sort of covering or protection are of use at all seasons. 
Snowdrops and certain irises will begin to flower at the first thaw and while 
the snow is on, and should have overhead covering. Later, some of the 
small alpines are quick to welcome the rising sun, and if they can be pro- 
tected for awhile they not only pass unscathed by the warm winds of the 
season, but the open sash helps somewhat to keep them in a damp atmosphere. 
Mountain plants do not usually suffer from cold, but from the sun's scorching 
rays in a clear sky. On the Alps, as in the tropics, the rays are tempered 
by abundant vaporous moisture. If one has only a few plants, oftentimes 
a single sheet of glass, supported overhead on wires, answers for plants 
which cannot withstand excessive moisture. 

As the season advances, "summer-ripe" bulbs and plants have stored 
up their food for another season, and are ready to rest for a shorter or longer 
period. For these, frames are again the ready way to keep away wet or 
moisture so that they will not be stimulated unduly. As the growing season 
ends, the frames come more into play, for we not only have to provide for 

189 



igo How to Make a Flower Garden 

blooming plants and forcing bulbs, but perhaps there are a lot of new things 
which look hardy, but which one would rather not trust outside until one 
has a larger stock. Then there will be slips and pots of seeds, and surely 
the flotsam and jetsam which is attracted to the amateur. 

In short, there is no question of the usefulness and consequent pleasure 
of frames, even in a garden of hardy things. No one knows better than the 
grower of hardy plants that hardiness is a comparative term, and that plants 
as well as humans are subject to "consumption and sudden death," so 
that success is the result of vigilance, constant care, and propagation. Con- 
sequently, if we wish to have the nice things and not let our garden nm to 
magenta -coloured phlox, we must protect, when necessary, those thmgs which 
are injured by thawing, or are in some years uncertain. It is not the 
freezing which injures most hardy plants, for their cells are adjusted to 
expansion, but quick thawing will rack many of them seriously when at all 
advanced in growth; most things making such growth being in a state of 
nature protected by long-lying snow. 

To recur again to the seamy side of the subject. Some years ago, 
being tired of airing frames in stormy weather, as a diversion, I raised the 
sash of my frames which were alongside of my greenhouse to meet the incli- 
nation of its roof, and by digging a path at the back had head room, with 
access through the furnace section. After that the operator worked in com- 
fort and took his pleasure less sadly, especially after I had knocked out a 
part of the side of the greenhouse, and grew orchids with the right hand 
and rested hardy plants under the left. 



II. An Amateur's Experience 
By J.\mes Wood 

CoLDFRAMES are not sufficiently appreciated by the general horticultural 
public. Under proper management so much can be done with them to 
lengthen the outdoor season of flowers and vegetables, in both spring and 
fall, and so many things can be safely carried through the winter with them, 
that it seems a pity they are not more generally used. Even where green- 
houses are run, coldframes are of great service in aiding their work. 

Coldframes may be very cheaply constructed where parties are willing 
to renew them every few years, or they may be substantially built where 



Coldframes for Wintering Plants 



191 



long-continued use is required. In the former case, cheap 'box boards" 
may be used for the sides and ends, with spruce two by two-and-a-half-mch 
strips for the cross-pieces to support the abutting edges of the sash. For 
substantial structures it is well to build the front, back, and ends of brick, 
twelve inches in thickness, with a four-inch air space in the center, with suf- 
ficient cross-tie bricks to make the wall strong and secure. These walls 
should be covered with planks securely fastened by bolts built into the 
wall. To these planks the cross-pieces or rafters are fastened. Two by 




Cheap but effective pits for wintering 



nder shrubs. They are protected by i 
matting are used in very cold weather 



ndbreak of willows. The straw and 



three locust pieces are best for these. The back should be twelve inches 
higher than the front for the ordinary six-foot width, to give good rain- 
drainage and an advantageous exposure to the sun. Tlie planks on front 
and back walls should have the same inclination, so that the sash may be 
easily slid upon them. 

The ordinary commercial sash is three feet wide and six long. The 
glass may be six by eight, where the sash is liable to rough usage, or ten by 
fourteen where it is carefully handled and well protected. There will be 



192 How to Make a Flower Garden 

three rows of the larger glass and five of the smaller. The larger glass gives 
rather the better results. 

The writer knows of no better way to give an idea how coldframes may 
be used than to state just what the row with which he is most familiar contains 
in early winter. This row is one hundred and twenty feet long and is 
covered with forty sashes. It fronts southeast, and is well protected from 
cold winds. This position is better than any other, as the morning sun is 
more potent than the afternoon. 

At the west end of the frames there are four sashes of violets — two of 
Marie Louise, and two of a very large and double Russian variety. These 
were rooted offsets planted in June last. The plants made a good growth 
during the summer and autumn, and are now full of buds which will give 
splendid bloom in the early spring. Next are four sashes of pansies. The 
plants were set in October, and will give a grand bloom in February if the 
weather is favourable, or in March and April if the season is backward. 
There are three sashes of English daisies, grown in the open ground from 
offsets of the choicest selected plants grown the previous season from seed. 
These were planted in the frames in September and are now full of 
bloom. The bloom will continue until next June. This daisy is more 
valuable than is generally known. Next are three sashes of polyanthus. 
These will give a wealth of bloom throughout the spring. This plant is 
generally hardy in the latitude of New York City, but it is desirable to have 
the flowers before the outdoor bloom. 

Then follow six sashes of lettuce of the variety known as mignonette. 
Three of these were planted in September, so as to be advanced to heading 
when winter set in. These will be in prime condition for use in February 
and March. The rest were planted six weeks later, so as to be strong plants 
through the winter, to head up in April and May. The most solid, hard- 
heading sorts, that must develop very slowly, attain a higher quality in 
coldframes than when grown in any other way. 

Next are two sashes of tea-roses, stored for planting out-of-doors for 
summer bloom. Tender and half-hardy roses can be carried through the 
winter in coldframes in the best condition for summer bloom. They can be 
packed closely, with a sprinkle of dry leaves among the tops. 

Then follow ten sashes of cauliflowers, five in a row, with rows twenty 
inches apart. These were put in about October ist, and will head in April 
and May. Between these rows are two rows to each space of savoury-leaved 



Coldframes for Wintering Plants 193 

spinach. This was transplanted closely in rows in time to be at the best 
development in November. It keeps in perfect condition for use all through 
the winter, and attains a quality never found in outdoor spinach. When 
it is removed, the ground is entirely occupied by the cauliflower. 

The last space of five sashes is occupied with sweet peas in rows two 
feet apart. The seed was put in early in October, so that the plants were 
five or six inches high at the beginning of winter. They remain dormant 
until spring, when they grow slowly. Here and in the cauliflower and rose 
spaces the soil is two feet below the glass. As the vines grow, short brush 
is used to support them tmtil the glass is reached, when the sashes are removed. 
The plants will stand light freezing without injury. The rows are then 
carefully set with tall brush, and the finest of fine blooms come about the 
middle of May. The flowering will continue until the earliest outdoor blooms 
are ready. At no other season are the sweet peas so much appreciated. 

As space is made vacant by the removal of lettuce, seeds of lettuce, 
beets, cauliflower, cabbage, cucumbers, and muskmelons in pots, and other 
things, are put in for the plants to be set outside for early use. Flowering 
annuals may also be started. 

With greenhouses devoted to flowers and vegetables, the writer has 
found that these coldframes "pay" better than any other space under glass. 
Coldframes may be on any scale desired, from the three or four sashes of 
the beginner to the market gardener's hundreds. The writer once asked 
a market gardener who grew lettuce very extensively how he could afford 
to pay such llea^'y rental. He replied: "You see those frames. Every 
eight inches square of their space has six five-cent nickels in a little pile in 
the ground. I rake them out each season. You can figure it for yourself. " 

The labour in caring for coldframes is but slight, but the requisite atten- 
tion they must have. This consists almost entirely of two things — water and 
ventilation. They must have air on pleasant or sunny days, and they must 
have water when that is necessary. Too frequent watering is very injurious. 

For extremely cold weather protection is advisable. Covers made 
of tongued-and-grooved pine boards, one for each sash, are the most 
convenient and durable. Mats made of straw are warmer, but these get 
soaked with rain and then freeze into tmmanageable nuisances. Straw 
mats with board covers are the best of all devices. 

A sandy loam, with plenty of well-rotted manure, is the best soil for 
frames. 



194 How to Make a Flower Garden 



III. Advice of a Market Gardener 
By Patrick O'Mara 

A necessary adjunct to the flower and vegetable garden is a coldframe. 
In it the early plantings of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce (raised from 
seed sown in the fall) are kept over during the winter. Hardy annuals and 
biennials, such as pansies, daisies, violets, chrysanthemums, aurictilas, 
cowslips, forget-me-nots, hollyhocks, carnations, etc., are best grown from 
seed sown in August or early September, transplanted into a coldframe, and 
again transplanted in spring to a permanent situation. 

A coldframe is easy of construction, being simply a box of the desired 
length on the surface of the ground, and covered with sashes when cold 
weather sets in. If possible, the frames should be constructed so as to run 
northeast to southwest, or east to west if the former is not feasible. Calling 
the side facing northwest or north the back of the frame, the board forming 
the back should be ten or twelve inches high — the width of a hemlock board ; 
the front boards should be six or eight inches high. This will give a slope 
toward the sun, the better to catch its rays, and will also quickly shed rain. 
The frame is made by putting posts in the ground and nailing the boards 
to them, one at the center of each board and one at each end. The posts are 
generally made from hemlock joists two inches by three inches, and shotdd be 
sunk about two feet in the ground, first giving them a good coat of tar. 
Where the boards join, each can be nailed to one post, the wide surface of 
the posts being faced to the boards, the posts to be on the outside of the 
frames. The standard length of the sashes is six feet, so that the boards 
should be five feet eight inches apart, thus allowing the sashes to project two 
inches over the boards, an inch at each end, for convenience in giving 
ventilation and in taking them off and putting them on. 

Various devices are used to so fasten the sashes as to prevent them 
from being blown away by heavy winds. The simplest is to prepare small 
wooden wedges about six inches long, which are driven in between the sashes 
and so bind the whole frame securely. A safe way is to put a screw-eye 
in the end of each sash and a hook in the board and fasten each sash in that 
manner. These fastenings should be used on the north side of the frame, if 
the prevailing winter winds come from that quarter. Another method is to 



Coldframes for Wintering Plants 



195 



stretch a stout wire the length of the frame over the sashes and along the 
center, anchor it securely at each end to stout posts, fasten it at one end 
to a half -inch iron rod which is threaded and which passes through the post, 
an iron plate being on the outside of the post. Then, with a key screwed on 
the bolt, the wire can be made as taut as desired. Shelter from the cold 
northwest winter winds is very important. The market gardeners put up 
a six-foot fence behind their frames as a windbreak. The south side of a 
house, bam, or row of evergreen trees can be taken advantage of on small 
places. It will be necessary, too, to put a bank of baniyard manure 




Azalea shed and pits 

against the outside of the frames, both sides and ends, as additional pro- 
tection from cold. 

The soil in coldframes should be well manured and well dug to get the 
best results. It is intensive culture, and the soil must be rich and mellow. 
Care should be taken, too, to see that it is well drained, and the frames 
guarded against any outside surface flow of water. Nothing is more 
harmful than a surplus of water in coldframes during the cold winter 
and early spring. 

When the crop is out of the frames in the spring or early summer, it 



196 How to Make a Flower Garden 

will be found beneficial to plant a crop of potatoes in them occasionally, also 
to seed them down to a green crop, such as red clover or millet. These can 
be dug in later in the season, and will be valuable to renovate the soil. 

The uses for coldframes are many, and are indicated in the short list of 
plants given to be grown in them. Before violet culture reached the high 
state in which it is now, violets were very largely growTi in coldframes for the 
New York market. One florist in Jersey City, who had an exceptionally 
favourable location, a sharp southern slope protected from the north, made 
a very comfortable living from about five hundred sashes entirely devoted to 
violets. Greenhouse culture of violets has, however, practically forced the 
abandonment of coldframes by florists. They can be and are still used by 
amateurs for their own use, and possibly to market the flowers if a surplus 
is produced. If violets are to be grown in coldframes, they must not be 
allowed to freeze hard at any time. Care must be exercised, therefore, to 
cover the frames during cold weather at night with straw mats or the new 
burlap mats, and over them close board shutters made out of half -inch pine 
boards, and the size of the sash. Heavy weights should be put on these 
to keep them from blowing away. These coverings will be found useful, 
but not indispensable, for plants in coldframes which are simply being 
carried over the winter. If care is taken to properly temper the plants 
in the early part of the winter, no covering but the sashes will be necessary. 
When snow covers the glass it should be removed as soon as possible, pro- 
vided the ground in the frames is not frozen hard and the plants are 
consequently growing. If it is frozen hard, the snow may be allowed to 
remain on for weeks. 

The most important point in handling coldframes is ventilation. With a 
frame tightly closed and the sun shining, the temperature in the frame, even 
in the coldest weather, will rise rapidly, and air must be admitted. The usual 
way is to have small blocks of wood prepared and laid on the sashes ready for 
use. With the wind blowing briskly from the north and the thermometer 
showing twenty degrees or less, give ventilation on the southern side of the 
frame. The blocks should be about four inches high, sawed out of furring 
strips. By inserting these flat, on edge, or upright, three gradations of ven- 
tilation can be given, as desired. Sometimes it will be found desirable to 
ventilate by tilting the entire sash and inserting the block either flat or 
edgewise at the middle of the sash, the block resting on the adjoining sash. 
With a strong wind blowing along the frame, this method is desirable, as 



Coldframes for Wintering Plants 197 

the sashes can be tilted so that the angle of elevation is in the same direction 
that the wind is blowing. During fine days in winter, when the sun is shining 
and there is not more than two or three degrees of frost, alternate sashes 
may be removed. When this is done several days in succession, be sure 
that the sashes thus removed and placed on top of the next ones are alternated, 
so as not to have the same plants covered each day with the double sash. 
During the fine days of late winter and early spring the sashes should be 
removed entirely, piling them at the end of the frame. 

Should the soil become dry at any time, so as to impede gro^^'th, then 
water, but this is not likely to happen during the winter months, and rarely 
even in the spring. 

Many of these details may seem superfluous, but it is only by close 
attention to details that success can be achieved. 



IV. Inexpensive Pits for the South 
By Laura Jones 

We who live in the southern or south central States can keep our pets 
through the winter months with much less trouble and expense than our 
northern neighbours. Pits are inexpensive, and in this latitude most plants 
can be kept in them without any artificial heat. In my own I gather tea- 
rose buds, sweet violets, primroses, geraniums, callas, carnations, abutilons, 
heliotropes, and a variety of greenhouse flowers at all months of the winter, 
and here I start greenhouse seeds and all of my summer-flowering bulbs. 

One of the most important requirements of a pit is perfect drainage. 
An imperfectly drained pit will give the florist much more trouble than 
pleasure, for during heavy rains the water will often rise, causing too much 
moisture for many a choice plant. If drainage pipe is used, it should be 
placed in one comer, and the floor should slope from all sides to the pipe, 
so there will be no small pools of water in any part of the pit. In my own, 
the drainage pipe extends for about six feet from the pit, and is covered to 
about four feet with earth and sod. During severely cold weather, when 
the air cannot be permitted to enter at any other point, this ser^•es as a 
ventilator, for the air is thoroughly warmed by the time it reaches the pit. 
One end of the pipe should be covered with finely woven wire netting or 
small iron grate, to prevent the entrance of rats or rabbits. 



198 How to Make a Flower Garden 

One wishes a pit to be a permanent structure, and rock and brick 
are therefore much used for the walls, but such walls are not altogether 
satisfactory. I have mine walled with planks of three-inch thickness, and, 
with the exception of one top plank, the lining is as good as when put in, a 
dozen years ago. 

For the benefit of those who intend to have a pit, I will give dimensions, 
so that some idea of cost can be formed. Length, twelve feet; breadth, 
eight feet; height of north end, seven feet; of south end, four and one-half 
feet. This gives a slope of two and a half feet, which is sufficient to shed 
water, and permits the sun's rays to penetrate without obstruction. Twenty- 
five planks were used for the walls, and nine for the benches. Back 
under the other benches, about two feet from the floor, I had two long 
benches placed for storing away the boxes of summer-flowering bulbs and 
dormant plants. 

The lumber used consisted of oak planks about fifteen inches wide and 
three thick, with four strips eight by two inches for outside finish. A pit of 
this size will hold a goodly number of pots, but, as it is necessary to economise 
space in the early spring, I have small shelves placed in the east and west 
comers, about one foot and a half from the top, for bulb- and seed-boxes. 

The cost of a pit is small. The digging, carpenter's work, and banking 
and lumber would have to be counted as the main expense. The cost of 
sash would be trivial, but cheap glass is quite expensive in the end. In 
placing benches, put them low enough to prevent the plants from touch- 
ing glass, as the hot sunshine will scorch foliage. In banking earth 
around the pit, it must be securely packed against the plank, so there will 
be no airholes for frost to enter. 



V. Violets in Coldframes 

By S.\rah Hopkins 

One is often told that it is not practical to raise violets in New England 
in coldframes, but from experience I can affirm the contrary. I bought 
six ready-made coldframes, and they are so well made and of such excellent 
material that they can withstand the coldest of weather. It is best to be 
on the safe side, however, and in severe weather straw matting should be 
placed on the glass, and then boards. The mats can be made at home with 



Coldframes for Wintering Plants 



199 



burlap and of straw made into mattresses, or they may be bought for one 
dollar and a half apiece. 

.My violets are a source of great pleasure to me They are a delightful 
family, and on cold days, when all the ground around is frozen, they alone 
are warm and fragrant. As I spent two winters in trying to get my frames 
"mounted," so to speak, it may be of some help to others to hear of my 
trials. First, ground-moles attacked them and plowed and replowed the 
roots until the violets were almost dead. Had I but known it, "rough on 




rats" kills them. 1 always sunk the frames, which proved a poor plan 
in my case. 

Select a high and dry place near a fence or hedge of evergreen trees for 
shelter from the north. It may even pay to build a fence along the north 
side. The frames must have as much sun as possible. The soil should 
be banked up around the frames to keep out cold and dampness. 

In my six frames are planted one hundred and eight Lady Hume Camp- 
bell violets. Every two weeks or so I pick at least two hundred blossoms, 



200 How to Make a Flower Garden 

and they are of an unexcelled fragrance and colour. Next year I intend 
to double the number, as I believe my coldframes produce finer flowers than 
any I have seen grown in a greenhouse. 

There are very few days when it is too cold to pick violets in the middle 
of the day. Take a small covered basket, lined with something; open the 
frames a little at a time, and drop the blossoms into the basket. Of course, 
there are some days when the matting cannot be taken oft", but there are 
not many of them. Each day the frames must be aired, if for only ten 
minutes at a time. It is best to have a small thermometer inside ; and 
seventy -five degrees is the highest temperature that should be allowed. 

VI. Pansies, Forget-me-nots, and Wallflowers 
By Thomas Murray 

From a coldframe may be had violets, wallflowers, forget-me-nots 
and pansies in March, "hepaticas" and trailing arbutus in April, together 
with wood-violets, wood-anemones, and the many other wild flowers, thtis 
starting the flower season two months ahead. Again in October and 
November, when everything outside has been nipped by early frosts, the 
coldframe preserves a few choice heliotropes, begonias, Marguerite 
carnations, nasturtiums grown in pots, scarlet sages; and tlie queen of the 
autumn, the chrysanthemum, is seen in all her glory. 

Violets for growing in coldframes are propagated, like strawberries, 
by runners. Great numbers of these are formed in April just as the flowering 
season closes. Take as many as you need to fill the frames the following 
year — say thirty-five to forty-five for a six- by three- foot sash, remove the 
old plants, and put the young ones in their places. Or, should the space 
be required for other things, place the young plants three inches apart in 
shallow boxes or in small pots until the beginning of May, when they should 
be planted in the open ground, kept watered and cultivated in summer, and 
transplanted into the frame, seven inches apart, by the middle of August. 
Flowers may be p'cked from early October until late November. In sections 
where the thermometer registers zero it will be necessary to keep the frames 
comfortably covered. In warm sect'ons flowers may be picked all winter. 

When plants are frozen, they should be left so, but during long warm 
spells air must be given or they will "damp off," or rot. The sunshine in 



Coldframes for Wintering Plants 20i 

February will bring the flowers out again, and they will continue to 
bloom until April. In summer all plants should be frequently sprayed 
to keep them free from the red spider and green fly, otherwise they will 
give trouble in winter. 

The best single blue varieties are California and Princess of Wales ; the 
latter has the larger flower and longer stem. Among double blues, Marie 
Louise and Farquhar dark are favourites, but Lady Hume Campbell or 
light Farquhar is the best. This variety has a more rugged constitution, 
and blooms later. 

Forget-me-nots are raised to perfection in coldframes. Sow the seed 
in July in a sheltered spot in the open ground. In four weeks, or when 
plants are large enough to handle, transplant three inches apart; water and 
grow along till late m September, then plant seven inches apart in 
frames, and keep them growing till frosts set in. A covering of three inches 
of dry leaves or straw should then be put over them. The frost will not 
hurt them, but the sun shining on them when frozen burns the leaves. When 
the weather gets warm in sprmg, remove the leaf mulch. The plants 
bloom during April and May. 

With the same general treatment, but leaving them in the open, the 
plants start to flower toward the end of May, and bloom continuously 
till July. The seed then falls, in due time germinates, and flowers appear 
next season. Old plants will bloom several years, but young plants each 
season give best results. 

Wallflowers in coldframes are very satisfactory. Sow the seed in 
April or May in the open ground or in "flats." When the seedlings are 
large enough to handle, transplant three inches apart. They will crowd 
each other in four weeks, when they may again be transplanted, giving 
each plant a square foot. By the first of October they will be twelve inches 
high, and bushy, and may be planted singly into six- or seven-inch pots, or 
several in boxes, and removed to the frame, where they should be covered 
to prevent alternate freezing and thawing. They do not like high temperature, 
so the sash should be removed on all clear days, especially in February and 
March, as they start growing then. They flower in April. We have heard 
that around New Rochelle, N. Y., some plants have been known to flower 
after being left outside all winter, but we have ne/er seen them. ■ 

Mignonette is always welcome and a general favourite in the garden 
and yard, but it is seldom seen in the window garden or coldframes. 



202 How to Make a Flower Garden 

although it can be seen at its best when grown in either position during 
the fall and winter. 

Sow the seed of the "Machet" or "Allen's Defiance" strains about 
August 15th, in small pots, putting four or five seeds in each. Water, 
and cover them with a sheet of newspaper. If the paper is kept moist 
the soil will not require watering again before the little plants come up. 
If more than two seedlings grow in each pot, they should be pulled out. 
For pot culture, as the pot is filled with roots more room should be given, 
until each has been potted into a six-inch pot. The stalks should be supported. 
After the center stalk flowers and is cut away, many side shoots will push 
out, and each will have a spike of flowers. Mignonettes may be kept in 
bloom all winter. When plants are to be grown in frames, they may be 
planted there as soon as the small pots first fill with roots. By planting 
several in a large pot a large specimen can be grown which attains a height 
of two feet and a diameter of the same. 

Pansies are raised from seed sown each season. It is not necessary 
that they should be bought each year, as home-saved seed is equal to any 
from the store, always providing a good strain has been secured at the start, 
as Henderson's Mammoth Butterfly, Giant Trimardeau, or German mixed. 
They do best in frames, or "flats." They take kindly to transplanting, and 
can be moved when in full bloom. A good watering always brightens them 
up after moving. For early spring use in the window box, or for cut flowers 
in the coldframe, or for planting in beds, sow the seed the middle of August. 
When large enough to handle, about the time the third leaf shows, trans- 
plant singly three inches apart in shallow boxes. Attend to watering tmtil 
they freeze, then cover with dry leaves and leave till spring starts them into 
growth again. They will stand a sharp frost. Ten degrees will not materi- 
ally affect them, so they may be planted out in beds or window boxes the 
first week in April. For stmimer and fall flowering, sow seed in April, grow 
along, and plant in a shady bed eight inches apart. 



CHAPTER XIII. HOTBEDS FOR EARLY FLOWERS 

I. How TO ]\Ianage Hotbeds 

By Patrick O'Mara 




lOTBEDS are most excellent things for those who appreciate 
early vegetables. They are also useful for flowers, especially 
tender annuals, and enable the horticulturist, whether 
amateur or commercial, to hasten the growth of asters, 
pansies, and the like. In fact, a hotbed is a cheap and 
often the only available substitute for a greenhouse. 

The size of a hotbed is determined by the requirements of the place; a 
convenient size is nine feet long, taking three sashes. An excavation three 
feet deep will be necessary. This should be boarded up completely from the 
bottom, the back rising two feet above the surface, the front eighteen inches. 
Cross-pieces four inches broad and an inch thick are let into the boards a 
sufficient depth to allow the edge of the boards to be even with the under 
surface of the sash when it is put on. A strip an inch wide and as thick 
as the sash, nailed along this, provides a tight frame for each sash, 
and renders ventilating easy. 

Fresh horse manure is the material used to furnish the heat. A quantity 
sufficient for the purpose should be procured at one time. Small quantities 
procured at intervals will not suffice. After a few days the pile will begin 
to ferment, which fact is made evident by escaping steam. The pile should 
then be thoroughly forked over and formed into a new pile. In two or three 
days fermentation will again occur, and then the material should be put in 
the hotbed, treading it down evenly and firmly to a uniform depth of two 
and a half feet. It is better to mix decayed leaves in equal quantities with 
the manure, but this is not essential. If the leaves are used the work is 
hastened somewhat, as fermentation is not so active. The bed being made, 
put the sashes on the frame. When a thermometer, plunged into the 
manure, shows 90 degrees F., put in soil to the depth of five or six inches 
and firm it down. This should be a rich, well-prepared compost, one-third 
well-rotted barnyard manure and two-thirds fibrous loam. 

203 



204 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Great care should be taken in watering. If too wet, the plants 
"damp off," or get weak and spindling; if too dry, they are likely to be lost 
altogether. Ventilation is a most important point; an hour's neglect may 




'*s lay-out of glas! 



destroy the crop of seedlings. When the sun is shining, the temperature 
may be allowed to rise to 70 or 80 degrees; at other times, from 55 to 60 
degrees is a proper temperature. 

Covering with mats and shutters is highly essential. If a cold night 
is coming, close up the frame early to store the heat, and put the covering 
on about an hour before sunset. Take it off in the morning from an hour to 
two hours after sunrise during cold weather. The sides and ends above- 
ground should be banked up with earth and six inches of manure to keep 
out cold in severe weather. 

Of course, the young seedlings must be transplanted in the hotbed, and 
the cultivator must provide room enough for that purpose. A sash will 
cover fifty lettuce plants transplanted for forcing; it will cover 500 trans- 
planted from the seed-bed. The latter number may be taken as a fair average 
for the general run of plants which a sash will cover after transplanting is 
accomplished. As sown in the seed-bed, before thinning or transplanting, 
a sash will cover about 5,000 seedlings. A sash will cover 500 radishes 
thinned out to grow to maturity. 

In transplanting, be careful to do the work quickly and thoroughly, 
firming the plant well with the planting-stick. Do not allow the plants to be 
out of the ground a minute longer than is necessary. Water them well 



Hotbeds for Early Flowers 



205 



after transplanting, and shade them with dampened sheets of paper for a few 
days until they have taken root. Tepid water, say 90 degrees F., can be 
used with benefit in watering plants in hotbeds, for the reason that the heat 
in the bed must be conserved. When the season's work is done, take out 
the manure and soil, which now has little, value except, perhaps, to lighten 
heavier soils used for potting. 

II. How TO Make a Hotbed 
By W. C. Egan 

Choose a sunny position protected from the prevailing spring winds 
by a fence, building, or hedge, where the surface drainage will be away from 
the site of the hotbed. Have the lower side face south, if possible. 

For a permanent frame, excavate from two to two and a half feet deep, 
and tile-drain the bottom. For sides use a brick or cement wall, one or more 
feet thick, or plank from two to three inches thick. A hollow wall in either case 
will retain the heat longer; and if it is floored with wood, so much the better. 




eliin-. <]ffcn phint all iheir seeds in splint forms or basltets 
liind of boxes may be used in a hotbed 



Remember that a single sash is three feet wide and three long, slanting 
lengthwise, so that the inside measurements must be multiples of these 
figures, first allowing a three-inch lap at all the four sides on which the sash 



2o6 How to Make a Flower Garden 

will rest. The portion aboveground should be one foot in front and eighteen 
inches at the back, with the sides tapering. 

If cement or brick is used, a box frame of two-inch plank should be bolted 
on (bolts set in the cement), and strong cross-bars run across where the sash 
meet. An inch strip may be nailed on these bars to divide the sash. If this 
is done, the width the strips occupy should be figured in the measurements. 
Cypress is the most lasting wood to use. 

Mats made of burlaps, straw, or fiber, obtainable at the stores, are 
advisable to use during cold nights. Light wooden shutters further retain 
the heat and keep the mats dry during stormy weather. Banking up 
against the frame with coal-ashes or loam is commendable. 

Temporary hotbeds are made by first preparing the manure as described 
elsewhere and spreading it out on the ground two or more feet deep and fully 
two feet wider all around than the frame to be used. On this set a frame 
one foot high in front and eighteen inches at the back and bank manure 
around it. Or have another frame one foot wider all around, which place 
outside, and fill the space between with manure. 

The preparation of manure for a hotbed is a matter of great practical 
importance. The result aimed at is a slow, moist, enduring heat. This 
condition is secured only by the proper manipulation of the manure before 
it is placed in the frame. Often fresh manure that comes from a boxed 
structure is quite hot when received, and it is sometimes used at once, but 
the result is a quick, violent heat, rankly charged with ammonia, that soon 
bums itself out, and ceases to act while the weather is still cold. 

Fresh horse manure is the best possible kind to use, and should have a 
good deal of rough, stable-soaked straw or litter in it. If this is lacking, 
litter or forest leaves may be added. s 

When it is received, shake it up most thoroughly, if it is naturally moist, 
and place it in a pile to heat. Protecting from rain or snow by covering 
with boards or piling under cover is beneficial, but not necessary. If the 
manure is dry and not inclined to heat, moisten it with hot water, which will 
soon start it. 

Let it stand three or four days, then turn again, placing what was outside 
in the interior, thoroughly shaking each forkful, and pile up again. Let it 
remain a few days until thoroughly heated through, when it is ready to be 
placed in the frame. 

Here it should be distributed evenly, and eventually be packed down 



Hotbeds for Early Flowers 



207 



firmly, especially at the sides and comers. If the gardener is not rushed for 
time, it is well to let the manure lie loose for a few days, during which 
time it will heat again. Put on the sash, but ventilate day and night until 
the steam passes off. During this process most of the ammonia escapes, 
which is desirable for this purpose, as the manure is useful for its heat alone, 
and not for plant food. When a thermometer, sunk in the manure and allowed 
to remain a few minutes, shows a temperature of less than 100 degrees, the 




bed is ready for use. I like to use two cubic yards of fresh m.anure to each 
sash of three by six. 

Seeds may be sown directly in the soil covering the manure, in which 
case the soil should be about six inches deep; or, if sown in shallow 
boxes, which are placed directly on the soil, the earth covering may be 
only three inches deep. 

When the young plants are up, shade a little with open latli frames, 
or strew litter lightly over the glass on hot, sunny days, and ventilate by 
raising the leeward side of the sash. 



2o8 How to Make a Flower Garden 

During the early summer, after the plants have been removed, lettuce 
or radishes may be grown in the hotbed. Where six inches of soil has 
been used, cannas will grow to perfection; they seem to delight in the 
half-spent manure, either in the beds or when removed to their outside 
plantings in June. 

When fall comes, remove the soil and manure and you have an 
admirable pit in which to bloom chrysanthemums ; or partially fill it with 
sifted coal-ashes and in this bury the pots containing bulbous plants, 
such as Easter lilies, tulips, hyacinths, etc., which require darkness and 
freedom from frost in order that they may develop their roots before 
throwing up their tops. These may be brought into heat as required, 
and forced. 

It is well to cover the frame with sash and shutters during the winter 
in order to keep the frost from the interior. 




CHAPTER XIV. THE PLEASURES OF A SMALL GREENHOUSE 

L The Greenhouse in the Snow 

By L. H. Bailey 

pT IS in the dead of winter that the greenhouse is at its best, 
for then is the contrast of life and death the greatest. Just 
beyond the hving tender leaf — separated only by the slender 
film of the pane — is the whiteness and silence of the 
midwinter. You stand under the arching roof and look away 
into the bare, blue depths where only stars hang their cold, faint lights. The 
bald outlines of an overhanging tree are projected against the sky with the 
sharpness of the figures of cut glass. Branches creak and snap as they 
move stiffly in the wind. White drifts show against the panes. Icicles 
glisten from the gutters. Bits of ice are hurled from trees and cornice, and 
they crinkle and tinkle over the frozen snow. In the short, sharp days the 
fences protrude from a waste of drift and rififle, and the dead fretwork of 
weed-stems suggests a long-lost summer. There, a finger's-breadth away, 
the temperature is far below zero; here is the warmth and snugness of a 
nook of summer. 

This is the transcendent merit of a greenhouse — the sense of mastery 
over the forces of nature. It is an oasis in one's life as well as in the 
winter. You have dominion. 

But this dominion does not stop with the mere satisfaction of a conscious- 
ness of power. These tender things, with all their living processes in root, 
and stem, and leaf, are dependent wholly on you for their very existence. 
One minute of carelessness or neglect and all their loveliness collapses in 
the blackness of death. How often have we seen the farmer pay a visit to 
the stable at bedtime to see that the animals are snug and warm for the 
night, stroking each confiding face as it raised at his approach ! And how 
often have we seen the same affectionate care of the gardener, who stroked 
his plants and tenderly turned and shifted the pots, when the night wind 
hurled the frost against the panes ! It is worth the while to have a place 
for the affection of things that are not human. 

209 



2IO 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Did my reader ever care for a greenhouse in a northern winter? Has 
he smelled the warm, moist earth when the windows are covered with frost? 
Has he watched the tiny sprout grow and unfold into leaf and flower ? Has 
he thrust a fragment of the luxuriance of August into the very teeth of winter ? 
Then he knows the joy of a conquest that makes a man stronger and tenderer. 




Greenhouses are of many kinds. There is one kind of the commercial 
plantsman, and another of the man of means whose conservatory is essential 
to the architectural completeness of his mansion. Of these we need not 
speak here, for their necessity is long ago established. But for another 
kind we wish to plead — for the quiet, unobtrusive greenhouse as an adjunct 
to a modest home. 

The object of this simple winter garden need not be the mere growing 
of flowers, although these may be had without trouble. It is worth the while 
to grow a plant just because it is a plant and because we are human beings. 



The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 



213 



The best plant is the one that has the deepest significance to you, even 
though it never make a flower. I know a man who has hundreds of plants 
m expensive greenhouses, and the best plant of all is a little white clover 
that closes its leaves by night and opens them by day. 

Against the backgrotind of winter every green and growmg plant is 




A snug little greenho 



green things grow and flo 



in the very teeth of a norlhe 



emphatic Against the luxuriant background of summer a plant twice 
as good may be overlooked and lost. The simplest and easiest things are 
best, for it is not well to make the uncommon things too common. A dainty 
rarity is all the better because it is seen in contrast with the homespun of 
the geranium and begonia ; and the common things perpetuate the con- 
tinuities and purposiveness of our lives. 

Like all effort that is worth the while, the labour of growing plants 
under glass requires watchful care. This care is its own reward. Many 
plants, however, are easy to grow, and with these the novice should begin; 



214 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




and with them, also, the very busy- 
man should be content. All of us 
can grow bulbs. We can lift the 
roots of petunias and alyssum from 
the garden when the frost comes. 
We can start the seeds of many annuals in 
late summer. We can make cuttings of 
begonias and coleus and a score of common 
things. Here and there we can pick up 
something new. Gradually we add to our 
store ; and in three years' time our winter 
garden, small or large, becomes a tmique 
collection of old-time friends and of new- 
time rarities. 



The Fun of Having a Greenhouse 



By Arthur G. Minshall 

.4 physician tvho takes time for a greenhouse gives some 
useful warnings 

To ANY lover of the garden the frost brings 
a feeling that the world in which he lives has lost 
half its beauty for him, and he anxiously awaits 
the time when the leaves once more begin to 
show their loveliness of green in the spring. If, 
however, he is the lucky possessor of "a small bit 
of glass," he has discounted the effect of the shock, 
and can continue to worship his favourite goddess 
in a small private shrine which is always con- 
veniently at hand, and whose selected treasures 
seem much nearer and dearer than the lavish 
plenties of the summer garden. In this "winter 
garden" he can have a constant change of scene 
by shifting the various parts, and by bringing in 
the sleeping roots and bulbs to brighten the field 
whenever variety may be desired; and if he 



The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 217 

has been properly far-sighted there will be a "continuous performance," 
however limited the stage may be, until the returning heat of the summer 
renews the necessity of his attention being directed outside again. 

To descend to more personal and practical details, my experience is 
that the man who has to run his own little greenhouse, and who has 
any sort of outside garden, would better not try to keep both going at 
full steam at the same time, unless he has an abundance of leisure time 
at his disposal. Somehow, too, there is not the attraction about the 
indoor growing of plants when everything is flourishing in the less- 
confined and healthier surroundings of the garden bed. Give your time 
to the greenhouse m the winter half, and to the outdoor life for the 
remainder of the year. 

However, when one's "glass" is part of the house, and would look very 
forlorn if empty, a fair showing can be made with a few begonias, amaryllis, 
and foliage plants which do not love the exposure of the open, and which with 
sufficient shading and sprinkling will not suffer from the heat, as so many 
other greenhouse pets do. Some people use fancy-leaved caladiums to make 
a summer display indoors at a small cost in time and trouble. The umbrella 
plant (Cypenis alternijolius) is much used for this purpose. If there is a 
blank wall to be covered, Ficus pumila will be found excellent. It looks 
well both summer and winter, and requires little care. 

My own little oasis opens directly out of the dining-room, and is heated 
by steam from the common furnace. I have deduced a few simple axioms 
for its successful operation. 

Don't let green fly, mealy-bug, or scale go too long; smoke or spray 
when at all plentiful. 

Don't have the place too hot ; give plenty of air on every possible 
occasion. 

Don't try to grow rare novelties; stick to robust, standard things that 
will not require coddling. 

Don't try to grow palms and pansies under the same conditions; one 
or the other, if not both, will prove a failure. The things that do best with 
me are those that every florist sells as "house plants," and which are "the 
survival of the fittest." 

Lastly, retire to your greenhouse when you have an attack of "the 
blues"; it will be the better for every one concerned. There is nothing 
like a greenhouse to keep one cheerful. 



2l8 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



III. Grow the Easy Things 



Iy J. A. Ellis 



Advice of a Canadian amateur ivho oiviis a fif tccn-by-iivcnty greenhouse costing one 

hundred dollars 

I HAVE a small garden in which I grow many flowers and vegetables. 
Some years ago I decided to build a little greenhouse in which I 

could raise my own 
plants in the spring 
for the garden, and 
which would be a 
"thing of beauty and 
a joy forever" during 
the remainder of the 
year. Accordingly, I 
constructed a lean-to, 
about twenty feet by 
fifteen. It cost me 
about one hundred 
dollars. 

At first I thought 
I would run it all the 
year round. Not 
having a furnace in 
my house, I heated it 
by means of hard 
wood burned in a large 
box-stove, and found 
this did very well so 
long as the fire was 
properly looked after. 
This, I knew, would 
entail my getting up 
in the middle of the night, when the weather was zero or thereabouts, to 
renew the fire, but I had no fear about my not doing this. However, I 





Easier-time— the height of the greenhous 



The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 221 

omitted to get up on two or three occasions, and, of course, those were the 
nights when the thermometer dropped out of sight. I found nearly all 
my plants frozen, and I came to the conclusion that this would not do. 
Now I keep the greenhouse going until very cold weather comes, when I 
remove the plants into the house, and in early spring I take them back 
again to the greenhouse. 

When stocking the greenhouse I had visions of some of the fine plants 
which we see pictured in the catalogues, and I went in for a most miscellaneous 
assortment, includmg chrysanthemums, roses, carnations, orchids, palms, 
ferns, etc. I soon found, by bitter experience, that to grow all these plants 
successfully different temperatures were required. I succeeded in killing 
off a good deal of my first stock by trying one temperature after another. 
Finally I made up my mind that I would have to discard those plants which 
required a high temperature. 

One year I grew nearly all chrysanthemums and did very well with them, 
but gave them up, as I found that they demanded more time and attention 
than a busy amateur could give. 

I have now got down to the commoner plants, such as fuchsias, begonias, 
geraniums, abutilons, primulas, cyclamens, and a few palms. I find that 
these all thrive pretty well m the same temperature, and there is nearly 
always something in bloom. Such plants as these, too, are more easily 
placed to advantage around the house in winter. 

On the whole, I would not hke to give up my greenhouse. By its aid I 
am enabled to raise flower and vegetable plants for my garden in the spring. 
I keep it fairly attractive in the summer and fall, and in the winter I can 
beautify my house with the plants taken from it. 



I\'. A SuBURB.\N Experience 

By J. N. Ger.\rd 

An am.-\teur can readily dispense with most tools rather than with 
a greenhouse. If his taste for growing things is catholic, it becomes 
a necessity; and if he collects only so-called "hardy" plants, it 
is scarcely less a most valuable adjunct to his garden. With a winter of 
practically seven months, a man without shelter for plants misses more 
than half his pleasure in seeing things grow. I say "a man" advisedly; a 



222 How to Make a Flower Garden 

woman, somehow, being able to grow plants to perfection in living-rooms 
under adverse circumstances. A greenhouse is nothing more than a tool 
to a gardener, and it is difficult to see why greenhouses should be placed so 
prominently in gardens, and often made so pretentious. They would mostly 
be improx'ed by a coat of dark-green paint, Avhich would help to eliminate 
them from the landscape ; or, if near the house, they might be of some 
colour which would make them as inconspicuous as possible. 

Having satisfied oneself as to the need of a house, the ways and means 
are in order. Here, as in most garden matters, the cost is on a sliding scale 
which bears no relation to the pleasure to be derived. One can spend several 
hundred dollars on a small house, or, if he is handy with tools, can, by using 
sash, cover as much space as one would care to look after at an expense 
for materials of fifty to seventy-five dollars. A good hot-water apparatus 
with two-inch pipes should cost as much more. This will cost nothing to 
place, if pipes are bought cut to right lengths. 

There are makeshifts for heating, but for a small house or a large one 
there is nothing as satisfactory, to my mind, as hot-water circulation from 
a self-feeding heater. These heaters need no attention oftener than twice 
daily. One does not care to be tied up to a fad, and a greenhouse so 
heated can be left to the care of almost any one. I have heated a house 
fifteen by eighteen feet for about ten years with such a stove with an 
average of less than twenty-five pounds of coal per day. 

In a greenhouse, as with other things, it is not what you put in, but 
what you get out of it, that cotmts. The "cropper" finds his fun in practical 
results, while another has just as much fim in letting things grow and seeing 
visions without tangible results; while another man, who should be an ento- 
mologist, persecutes bugs to his joy. (There are insects to be found in a 
greenhouse sometimes.) 

There are some advantages and some disadvantages in attaching a 
greenhouse to a dwelling, but the man who likes his fling and wants a work- 
house had better have it at a little distance, where his ideas of order will not 
receive critical attention. In this case he will be doing about the best for 
his comfort if the house is only shortly distant from the dwelling, when the 
heater may be placed in the cellar, to the saving of room, and the saving of 
comfort on stormy nights. 

Do not get hot yourself when told that "you should see Mr. Brown's 
flowers," when you know they are chickweed as compared with yours. 




An ideal worth striving foi 



The feathery grace of pal; 



the greenery of ferns and hanging baskets. 



The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 225 

V. A Rose-fancier's Hobby 

By Edward A. Reed 

FAi^lit Iniudrcd rosrs per season in a house ten and one-lmlf by fifteen and one- 

halj feet 

My little greenhouse is built directly from, and includes a part of, 
the piazza on the south side of the house. It is ten and one-half feet 
wide and fifteen and one-half feet long, including the piazza, which 
is five and one-half feet. 

A door from the parlour opens upon the piazza, and then a few steps 
lead down to the floor of the greenhouse proper; on the west is a door into 
the garden. The entrance from the house I regard as of supreme importance, 
because, fully to enjoy a greenhouse, you must be able to run into it easily, 
at odd moments, when you are pressed for time or the weather is stormy; 
and then what pride and joy, on a bleak winter's day, to simply open the 
parlour door and show admiring guests the pots of hyacinths and daffodils 
— above all, roses ! 

The greenhouse is heated by a small hot-water stove, but I imagine 
tJiat it might be done more easily and cheaply by a coil, if our furnace per- 
mitted it. Sloping shelves fill the piazza for palms, begonias, geraniums, 
callas, and other plants, especially such as require little sun ; for, of course, 
there is no direct light overhead on the piazza part of the greenhouse. 

The benches are filled entirely with roses — between sixty and seventy 
in all — Souvenir de Wooton and Bon Silene, with a few Safranos and Perles. 
As the winter comes on we lock the garden door and fill that end of the 
passage with roses in pots. Most florists would smile at the idea of raising 
roses in such a house as mine, but I average eight hundred blooms from 
October to June. This is a generous reward, not to mention the pleasure 
of the work. 

The roses are taken out the last of May, and new ones planted in the 
benches, in fresh soil. During the winter the soil is fertilised with well- 
rotted cow manure and a little bone-dust. A short hose, from a faucet on 
the piazza, easily waters and syringes the plants. Roses must be thoroughly 
syringed to keep down red spider. A guard on the top of the piazza and 
a wire screen over part of the greenhouse protect the glass from the snow 
from the roof of the house. 



226 How to Make a Flower Garden 

In my opinion, no one should attempt to raise roses in such a house 
who is not thoroughly in love with them, but ordinary plants and flowers 
may be easily managed. 



VI. A General Collection of Plants 

By Hugo Erichsen 

A nine by twclvc-joot house containing something besides the "easiest" things 

Few things have given me greater pleasure than my little greenhouse, 
though it is but nine by twelve feet in size — just large enough tO' 
accommodate a comfortable chair (in addition to the plants), in 
which, more than once during hours of illness, I have basked in the sun- 
shine that filtered through the roof. j\lany and many a time it has conveyed 
to me a cheering message of promise, presaging the joys of spring. 

A capacious bench in the form of a horseshoe accommodates three 
rows of plants of medium size. In order to prevent overcrowding, I have 
elevated plants with considerable foliage on iron stands. Heat is supplied 
by water-pipes connected with a coil in our hot-air furnace. One door 
gives access to the dining-room, and another opens into the garden, thus 
facilitating transplanting and other work. 

In one comer, a square opening was left in the floor, enabling me to 
plant a Marechal Niel rose in the ground, of which that vigorous grower 
quickly took possession. For a long time its growth was hardly perceptible, 
but now it covers the top of the greenhouse, forming a verdant canopy 
from which large, fragrant yellow roses depend during the season. 

I consider palms and dracaenas very useful in conservatories of limited 
size. Among blooming plants, I like the Dutch bulbs, azaleas, some of the 
begonias, geraniums, Olea fragrans, the baby primrose (P. Forbesii), Genista 
Canarteitsis, the Japanese chrysanthemums, and some of the varieties of 
abutilon. These, with specimens of Arancaria excelsa, philodendron, 
aspidistra, and an Otaheite orange or two, will fill all available space. 

I make it a rule to fumigate my "winter garden" every fall, to prevent 
an invasion of aphides. Smut, which gives me considerable trouble, is 
controlled by applications of sulphur. 

If I could not do any better, I would convert a cellarway into a green- 



The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 



229 



house by covering it with window-sashes, and heating it with an oil-stove 
In competent hands an outfit of this kind would do wonders. 




VII. A Greexhouse Near Cincinnat, 
By E. T. Harvey 

My greenhouse is built on the east side of the house, and is connected 
with the dining-room by two doors, which were formerly windows. 
A window from the kitchen also looks into it. Altogether, it is 
thirty-four feet long, part of it 
twelve feet wide, and the exten- 
sion with sloping glass roof is 
eight feet wide. As its appear- 
ance indicates, it has grown from 
time to time, and I think for that 
reason it seems to fit into the 
situation better. 

A flower bed about two and 
one-half feet wide, which runs 
all around the house and next 
to the walk, serves as an ideal place for Dutch bulbs, and it is made 
thoroughly impervious to moles. During the summer it is mostly filled with 
pot plants from the greenhouse. The flowering vines, as shown m the 
picture, are tall nasturtiums, which are still blooming until the middle 
of November. 

At the south end of the greenhouse I have a large cold-pit. This I 
reserve for the tender roses and half-hardy plants. In addition to this, 
I have another pit for sweet violets, and I have a large lot entirely 
devoted to flowers, flowering shrubs, and trees, so there is considerable 
to look after. 

My greenhouse is heated with a hot -water heater that also supphes 
the eight-room dwelling house. I have always used anthracite coal, as it 
makes a more reliable, steady heat. In cold weather I try to arrange to 
have the fire at its best about two or three in the morning, and it lasts from 
ten at night imtil six or seven next morning. I have curtains to let down 
at some of the windows in the greenhouse, and when the mercury gets into 



230 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



the zeros I favour the more tender plants as well as I can. Of course, in 
growing such a variety as I have the conditions are not suited to all, but 
I seldom lose any. The list is too numerous to mention, but I have some 
large palms, a fine specimen of Pittospornui Tobira more than five feet 
across, a loquat in bloom, orange and lemon trees in fruit, araucarias, 
azaleas, camellias, begonias, ferns, a lot of flowering plants, and even crotons. 

In summer I move all the p ants and arrange favourable and attractive 
places for them about the garden. 
Five or six night-blooming cereus, 
a few climbing roses and a large 
Monstera deliciosa are about all 
that remain inside, and they are 
too large to handle. 

It is hard to estimate the 
cost, as I have made so many 
changes, but I should think about 
$350 would put up the building if 
I had to do it over again. 

I cannot imagine how any 
one who loves plants could spend 
money better than by building a 
small greenhouse. Things may be 

so arranged that fifteen or twenty minutes, or a half-hour at the most, 
every morning is plenty of time to care for it, but one will take a great deal 
more time than this when one has the opportunity to enjoy it. 

After the dark days of winter, when the days lengthen and the sun 
grows brighter, comes the most enjoyable time in the greenhouse. The 
plants seem to freshen up, and I have tender water-lihes and other things 
to start in anticipation of summer time. Who but an enthusiast can appre- 
ciate the joys of the new spring catalogue? Besides the pleasure of the 
flowers comes the feeling of looking after and caring for the plants. He 
who grows roses "must first have them in his heart." Very few days in 
the year pass without some flowers from the greenhouse on our table, and 
then there is the pleasure of caring for the plants themselves. They all 
have difTerent needs and associations, like old friends. I should not wish 
to live without a greenhouse. There is no end of satisfaction in growing 
good things and watching their development. 




The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 233 

VIII. The Cost of a Greenhouse 

By Maida Maitland 

A case where it paid to add a conservatory to a rented Jiousc 

A LITTLE more than a year ago, as we stood gazing out on our first 
garden, the thought of the chilly winds and frosts of winter sweeping 
away the wealth of bloom and leaving things desolate filled us with 
feelings of keen regret. 

"Why not build a small conservatory and carry on our gardening 
through the winter?" I temptmgly suggested. 

"I am afraid the cost is away beyond our means," was the cautious 
man's reply. 

"We can at least get prices and consult our bank-book," the tempter 
ventured. 

The man's eyes brightened as a vision of roses, carnations, and bright 
flowers blooming amid the snows of a Canadian winter rose to his mind 

Landlord, plumbers and contractors were interviewed, and the proposi- 
tion stood thus : The landlord agreed to alloiv us to build a conservatory, 
to become his property on our removal from his house. The house was 
to be ours for five years, and forever if we wanted it. A conservatory ten 
by sixteen, built of best material, would cost $150. 

The woman sat back with disappointment plainly visible on her face, 
for this to her seemed too large an outlay to spend on a house not their own. 

"Let us see, now," said the business man. "Spread over fiv^e years, 
$150 would increase our rent exactly $2.50 per month, and if we remained 
ten years it would be $1.25." 

"Then if that is all, we'll have our greenhouse!" was the woman's 
joyous reply, "for by your figuring it just amounts to our cream bill for 
the month." 

In three weeks the work was completed, and there was an air of excite- 
ment about the place as the plants began to arrive. A good space was 
set aside for carnations; these were benched, likewise the roses. Down 
the center we placed a rack with three shelves, decreasing in width as it 
ascended. The top shelf was built like a window-box, only wider, and 
around both sides our choicest vines were planted, but so arranged as not to 
interfere with the shelves beneath. Around the other two sides of the room 



234 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



a bench was placed with sides built up to hold three inches of earth. At 
the inside edge of this, moon vines, swansonia, and the beautiful passion 
vine were benched at intervals and trained on trellises to cover the walls. 
All the creepers from the baskets and window-boxes of the stammer were 
placed to the outside edge of the table, and in one month, as we beheld 
our handiwork, the result was encouraging. 

All went well imtil the cold nights of December came; in the mornings 




It is worth while lo have a liltle greenhouse for the pleasure of growing one's own chrysanthemun 



The Pleasures of a Small Greenhouse 237 

the temperature would go down to forty-two degrees. However, during 
the day the sun's bright rays would warm up things to nearly scorching 
point, but to counterbalance the chill that was sure to follow at night I 
religiously excluded all fresh air, so as to retain all the heat possible. This, 
we found later, wou'.d never do. The temperature must vary but slightly 
during the twenty-four hours in order to approximate natural conditions. 
Then came depressing days, and it was feared by those who laughed at us 
and those who encouraged us that our venture was a failure after all. 

One day at lunch we told of our trials and disappointments to a clever 
young architect who was visiting us, and after a careful investigation of 
the little building he advised us to send for a carpenter, cut out a small 
groove on the inside of each window-frame with the exception of the roof, 
and insert a second pane of glass. This increased our expenditure somewhat, 
so that we counted that with these extras and the necessary plants to stock 
the place our expense account reached $200. With the extra glass our 
troubles ceased, and during the intense cold of our Canadian climate we 
were able to keep the tenderest plants. Before long our carnations bloomed 
freely, geraniums, begonias, chrysanthemums and other plants added colour 
and beauty to our winter garden, and we felt that, had our venture cost 
twice the amount, we were amply repaid. When the warm sunshine of 
February came to us, our roses, which we had looked upon as failures, budded 
and blossomed, and then, indeed, we felt that we had reached success. How- 
ever, there are two sides to all questions, and there are many disappointing 
features the first year in a greenhouse, and to all who embark in the venture 
I will give the quaint definition of "patience" as given by a little Scottish 
maiden to hang as a motto over the conservatory door : ' ' Bide a wee and 
dinna weary." 



CHAPTER XV 

How TO Make a Formal Garden at a Moderate Cost 
By Warren H. Manning 



I 




T IS the small home grounds of vil- 
lages that offer the most favour- 
able opportunities for a marked 
advance in civic improvement and 
m the broadening of the home life, 
this to be brought about by- 
establishing upon the grounds 
compartments for various purposes 
as clearly defined as are those 
of the house and in some of which 
the same degree of comfort and 
privacy can be secured. In 
-^ ordinary village lots such 
compartments would be the 
back yard, of which a part would be used for service requirements and 
a part turfed or cultivated, an area at the side of the house for garden, 
lawn or terrace, with direct access to the living-rooms, and the front lawn 
— a continuous, unfenced area maintained for the mutual benefit of the 
householder, his neighbours, and the public. The public may thus secure 
vistas over turf between street, trees, and houses. The center of 
the vistas should be kept open, and there should be, along and 
between the front lines of the houses, a nearly continuous but irregular belt 
of vines, shrubs, and herbs. Such a belt, by the continuity of its greenness 
and its graceful drapery of foliage and stems, brings houses varying in style, 
size and colour into harmonious relations with each other, with the grounds, 
and with the surrounding landscape, and gives a relief to the rigidity of 
architectural lines. That part of the plantation extending from house to 
house will serve also to screen a garden or terrace from passers-by. 

In assigning space to each compartment, provision should also be made 

239 



240 How to Make a Formal Garden at Moderate Cost 

for room upon which to estabhsh the border plantations required to shut 
out unattractive and frame in attractive views, as seen from important 
viewpoints within house and grounds. In all this study regard should be 
had for the general composition — that is, the picture to be produced 
ultimately by the house, with its drapery of vines, its skirting of shrubs, 
and the trees that form its background and frame in its lawn areas. 

Primarily, the architectural character, the general arrangement and 
location of the house, as well as the arrangement of the grounds, of which 
the garden, be it formal or informal, is a part, should be governed by the 
existing conditions. On a very rugged and picturesque site, where the 
surface is covered with an attractive growth of low, dense shrubs, an unsym- 
metrical house made to fit into and grow out of the surface with little injury 
to attractive rock formation and shrub growth would be fitting. Upon 
such a site a formal garden would be quite out of place, because the cost of 
construction and sacrifice of another type of beauty would be greater than 
the return. A distinctly informal garden, with the flower beds in pockets 
and valleys of deep soil, and where the native shrubbery already established 
on the thin soil of ridges and ledges is retained, will have a peculiar beauty 
of its own. A person having such a lot, who can appreciate the beauty 
of natural conditions, or one having an abandoned quarry or pit and who 
can take full advantage of such unusual situations, may excite the mild 
derision of his neighbours for buving a "rubbish hole" and saving "brush," 




the Stokes estate at Lenox 



I 



How to Make a Formal Garden at a Moderate Cost 243 

but in the end he will turn derision into congratulation and emulation. 
Except in a comparatively few localities, such sites are rare. Usually lots 
are so flat and bare that some type of the formal garden is the most feasible 
as well as the most logical thing, and it is for this reason that particular 
attention is given to such gardens at this time. 

The successful plan for a formal garden must grow out of an independent 
study of conditions, not a study of ready-made plans. A good plan will be 




Highland Park, 111. 



a reasonable thing — that is, there will be an obvious reason for every part of 
it. You will not put in walks, beds, dials, arbours, pools, etc., because they 
are pretty, or because you regard them as an essential part of the furnishing 
of such a garden, as you would regard a frying-pan an essential in the kitchen. 
Obviously, a pool or fountain without a constant and copious water-supply 
would be unsatisfactory, and a sun-dial in constant shade would be quite 
absurd. Now that all animate and inanimate things are given a voice by 



244 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



oiir story- writers, one should be somewhat cautious about statuary. Just 
imagine the protest of a nude figure in zero weather ! 

Do not attempt to utilise discarded material or utensils which one would 
instantly associate with other uses — such as beer-bottles for the edging 
of beds, old kettles on tripods painted red and with imaginary fires of stone 
tmder them, and old earth-filled stoves with geraniums blazing out of the 
cover-holes, love-in-the-mist puffing out of the smoke flue, and a front 
draft exhaling "infant's breath." 




A bed of dwarf flowering 



the Pan-American Exposilic 



Above all, avoid the curious and the grotesque unless you are ready 
frankly to accept the idea that the garden is to be a museum — a place for 
the display of freaks. When you do this, do not inflict it upon all your 
friends all the time. A very retired nook behind a very high hedge would be 
an appropriate place for Alexander Pope's "Imagery in Evergreen Subjects," 
with which a "virtuoso gardener" would "ornament villas and gardens" 
to distinguish them from the "barbarous countries of gross nature." Fancy 
" Adam and Eve in yew, Adam a little shattered by the fall of the Tree of 
Knowledge in the great storm, Eve and the Serpent very flourishing"; 



How to Make a Formal Garden at a Moderate Cost 247 

"St. George in box, his arm scarce long enough, but will be in condition to 
stick the dragon by next April; a green dragon of the same, with a tail of 
ground ivy for the present; an old Maid of Honour in wormwood." 

Xeither should there be attempted in the flower gardens of small home 
grounds a pattern in walks and beds so complicated that it cannot be traced 
by the eye, unless all flowers are omitted from the beds. The very 
crooked walks and beds of such designs are difficult to care for. 

In determining the location, the relative size of beds, walks, and other 
features, it is the harmony of good proportion and fitness which gives artistic 
merit to a good design. Good proportion comes largely from intuition; 
fitness grows out of knowledge and good sense. 

In making the design for beds, bear in mind that it is difficult to cultivate 
from one walk a bed more than four feet wide, or one more than eight feet wide 
between two walks. If beds are to be wider, narrow walks through the 
center will be needed. It is hardly necessary to say that beds should be most 
thoroughly prepared, if the most luxuriant growth, best health and greatest 
abundance of flowers are to be secured ; and as this garden represents a 
comparatively small part of the lot, such preparation can usually be afforded. 
Use two feet of good and well-enriched garden soil, with tile drains a foot 
deeper under each bed, leading to a free outlet, especially in heavy soils. 
If necessary, accept for the time being the soil as it is with a very thorough 
spading, with the addition of a very large amount of well-decomposed manure, 
and then approach the ideal treatment as rapidly as possible. 

The width of a walk is governed largely by usage. If a horse and cart 
are to be used, a walk should be from six to eight feet wide ; a wheelbarrow will 
require a walk three feet wide ; if two persons are to walk abreast comfortably, 
the walk should be four or five feet wide ; narrow walks in the center of beds 
should be from one and one-half to two feet wide. Walks made of a perma- 
nent material require less care and are more comfortable to use at all times. 
A first-rate material is good red brick, laid on a six- to ten-inch foundation 
of loose gravel, cinders, or sand, with a low crown to shed water. Other 
coloured brick will in some cases be as good or better. Slate flagging upon 
the same foundation is good. Cement concrete is neat and clean, and durable 
if well laid, but the colour is not as good as brick. Tar concrete and asphalt 
blocks are an abomination in colour. Thin sheets of sandstone, limestone, 
or other flat-surfaced rocks of irregular outline, make serviceable and pictur- 
esque stepping-stone walks when joints are made close enough to prevent 



248 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




How to Make a Formal Garden at Moderate Cost 251 

the heel of a lady's shoe from being caught in them, and with edges next to 
beds made straight. Such a walk should also have a porous foundation. 
If, however, the cost of such a foundation cannot be undertaken, lay the 
stones directly upon the soil. If the action of frost makes the surface of 
stones too uneven, they can be replaced easily. A macadam walk of crushed 
stone four inches deep, or a similar surface of binding gravel, makes a firm 
walk, but dirt will track from it to the house, and weeds will grow in it. A 
surface of smooth, round pebbles is clean and free from weeds, and often 




Stately steps descend into the formal garden 

gives an excellent colour-effect wlien carefully selected, but it does not pack 
well. A turf walk is often used, but it holds the wetness of dew and rain, 
and it does not sharply outline the pattern of a formal garden, because 
there is not colour contrast enough between it and the planted beds. If 
you do not care to go to the cost of such surfacings, use the soil of the garden 
as a walk. It will be muddy and dusty at times, but occasional mud and 
dust need not seriously detract from your pleasure. 

A low, true edge of some material should be formed next to the 



252 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



bed to hold walks and earth in place; and, in addition to this, a verdant 
edge of such plants as dwarf box, ivy, or the dwarf high-bush cranberry — 
all of which can be held by trimming to a rigid line. Less desirable as an 
edging are such plants as the narrow-leaved blue day-lily and the dwarf 
irises. A turf edge is much less expensive, but it lies too flat to make a 
distinct line of demarkation. 

Water in basins and fountains adds much to the attractiveness of a 




formal garden if it can be secured to give a constant flow to foimtains or 
falls. A fountain that is put on tap for company is likely to be a snare 
and a delusion. If your garden is a show-place, maintained chiefly for the 
benefit of occasional visitors, such a fountain on tap may be all right; 
but if it is a place to live in, you want the water daily, just as you want 
the flowers daily. Even if you do not use water as a feature in the garden 
design, it is very desirable, and in some places quite essential, that you 
have it from hose connections for watering beds. Where the water-supply 
is limited, it can be used to make a wet spot for bog plants, or it can be used 



How to Make a Formal Garden at a Moderate Cost 257 

in a shallow basin as a water mirror, in which fishes, but not plants, can be 
kept, but in which plants grown along the side will be reflected; or as a small 
stream running from a spouting head into a basin in a wall, from which 
it will drip to a lower basin with an outlet. If there be a column of water, 
it should be continuous and strong. ■ In the construction of basins, cement 
is most serviceable and least expensive. Of course, in winter the water 




n the formal garden 



should be shut off; but if, in the construct'on of the basins, the sides 
are made flaring instead of perpendicular, the action of ice is not so 
likely to burst them. 

A hedge as a boundary for a garden is appropriate ; but, owing to the 
amount of space it will ultimately occupy, its interference with the growth 
of garden plants, the trouble of keeping it in good condition, and its lack 
of flowers, it is usually best to substitute substantial brick or stone walls, 
if the house be of brick or stone, or wooden fences if the house be of 
wood. The objection to wood lies in the difficulty of repairing and 
painting it when covered with vines. 



258 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



An appropriate place for seats, arbours, sun-dials, and other useful 
and attractive accessories will be found as the plan develops. 

In planting, the purpose should be to establish an effective display 
of colour in foliage, flowers, twigs, or fruits in their season, rather than a 
varied and interesting collection of plants — if it is a flower garden rather 
than a botanic garden that is to be created. This will be accomplished 
best by using in large cjuantities the few varieties that will give the best 
floral or other effects desired, rather than many varieties in small 
quantities. Obviously, trees or shrubs having a wide spread cannot be 
used unless trimmed constantly. 




CHAPTER XVl. JAPANESE GARDENING FOR SMALL AREAS 

L A Japanese Garden in an American Yard 

By William Verbeck 



HORN and brought up in Japan, my natural playground was the 
Japanese garden. I was happy when I drowsed away a hot 
afternoon under a distorted pine, on the shady side of a child 
mountain, with a book about elves and dwarfs in my hand; 
and in my imagination I would people the little hills and 
with the wee folk Later, when the maples were red, a score 




dells 



of my Japanese playmates would join me in mimic war; and, armed 
with bamboo lances and swords, we attacked and counterattacked, now 
hiding in mountain fastnesses, now waclmg through iris ponds. The masking 
of hill behind hill and the artful vistas of the ancient garden-builder had 
prepared for us an ideal stage for strategy and battle. As I grew older, 




" With rye straw I thatched the gate. My fences were made of bamboo fishing poles tied with rough hemp i 

259 



260 How to Make a Flower Garden 

with my father I explored many ancient gardens of the Daimios; and of 
these I remember best an extinct garden, grown to seed, grewsome and 
beautiful, the pond a tarn grown over with a green scum, I learned to 
love those gardens all, from Hamagoten, the Emperor's summer garden 
by the sea, to the humblest effort of the farmer to merge a stone, a shrine, 
and a pine tree into a landscape. 

And so when I made my home in America I longed for a genuine 
Japanese garden. .Aly first one I built behind a school building, m the 
woods, on a beetling cliff of limestone. Jutting over the rocks I put 
my summer house. It was fifteen feet square, and the veranda commanded 
a vista cut through the tree-tops of the valley below. A sliding window 
in the back gave a glimpse of the dense woods which opened up into a long 
vista to the north. Instead of paper shutters I used ground glass, as better 
withstanding the weather. The room had its regulation lokonoma and its 
chigaidana — the first an alcove for the hanging scroll, the second a recess 
for shelves arranged in echelon. The walls were first plastered smooth, and 
then I overlaid them with plaster of Paris, using my bare hands to describe 
cloud patterns as I approached the ceiling and sea-wave patterns on nearing 
the floor. Among the waves I set shells and mosses. The whole was built 
of carefully seasoned pine of selected grain, and oiled to give the appearance 
of age. I cleared a space of about fifty feet square m front of the summer 
house, and laid out what is technically known as a "flat garden." I dug 
out an old brook-bed that meandered through it, and covered the bottom 
with white pebbles, bordering it with rocks and ferns. A bamboo fence 
and a rustic bridge completed this plateau. 

But I tired of this garden, because I wanted to see and hear real water, 
and that was impossible on the cliff ; so I dragged my little house down to 
the campus below the school, against a fringe of trees, and remodelled it. 
I opened up another side for more ground-glass shutters, and added a moon 
window with cloud slats across its face. I abandoned the flat type of garden 
and composed something approaching the conventional "hill garden" 
Because of the difference in the conditions of climate and environment, 
I found it impossible to conform to all the traditions and laws of the classical 
Japanese garden. Therefore I treated my subject freely, and followed the 
spirit rather than the letter of the conventions. 

The classical garden, like a sonnet, is governed by special laws of harmony 
and rhythm. It must have its five hills, its ten trees, and its fourteen stones 



Japanese Gardening for Small Areas 



265 



— and the greatest of these is the stones. You can get along without hills, 
and you can get along without trees, but you cannot get along without 
stones. Indeed, the perfect type of the flat garden is nothing but an archi- 
pelago of rocks in a sea of white pebbles. The stones must be the foundation ; 
the rest are mere accessories. Speaking stones are what is wanted — stones 
that suggest moods and passions — for the Japanese recognise that there 
are sermons in stones. Each stone has its name and relative place in the 
composition. There is the Guard- 
ian Stone in the center, and 
opposite it the Belleview Stone. 
Across the cascade is the Moon- 
shade Stone, and so on in orbits 
around the grand key are the 
Throne Stone, Worshipping 
Stone, Snail Stone, Idle Stone, 
and so on. 

The hills unmask each other 
by rule. The principal hill has its 
two foothills, its spur hills, its dis- 
tant peak seen through a valley, 
and the low hill that must stand 
on the opposite side of the lake. 

As there is a principal stone 
and a principal hill, so must 
there be a "principal tree," the 
shojin-boku, around which the 
Tree of Perfection, the Tree of 
Evil, the Tree of the Setting Sun, 
the Tree of Silence, and the Tree 
of Solitude bow their lesser heads. 

These are the essentials. Now add one pond, one island, two stone 
lanterns, three bridges, and mix thoroughly, garnish with lotus, and serve 
with goldfish and mandarin duck. There is a recipe for the classical 
Japanese garden. 

To return to my American translation of the Japanese garden — I laid 
out an irregular square one hundred feet in each direction, and into it crowded 
about an acre of view, and by exaggerating the perspective produced depths 




nted to see and hear 



266 How to Make a Flower Garden 

of vista such as might suggest gUmpses through the wrong end of a telescope. 
In the center I placed my " Dedication," or key-stone, a ragged slab on end 
with a bold, smooth face, ready for inscription. Following traditions, I 
placed my garden with its back to the north ; and from the other three points 
of the compass I made sketches, each with salient features invisible in the 
other two. From these "elevations" I blended a "plan." The lakelet 
and the hills were then staked out in no haphazard way. For every inlet 
there was a reason. Every hill formed a screen of malice aforethought. 

The lake was made about fifty feet long, well grouted and gravelled, 
to hold a foot of water. On the west side three immense stones formed 
the entrance to a cave into which the waters of the lake followed, or, more 
properly speaking, out of which the waters poured. The plashing of a 
hidden waterfall came out from the cool of the grotto. A second source 
of supply was arranged to creep through the dry lake to the south, grown 
with rank weeds and iris. The third supply was in the shape of a small 
mountain torrent shooting under a rustic sod bridge. Then the electricians 
buried their wires, safely protected from moisture in lead pipes, and leading 
to fifteen standard lanterns. Here it was that I fell from grace in not adhering 
to the strict traditions of the classical garden. My desire for fairy effects 
turned me to the more plebeian models, and I found in the tea-garden an 
excuse for illumination. I therefore added a dozen wooden-post lanterns 
to my three monumental stone lanterns. 

My "principal hill," eight feet high, was built over the grotto, and 
with two foothills formed a crescent chain of mountains against the lake 
The foothills were sundered by a chasm bridged over with a great stone slab. 

Then came the placing of the stones. With no professional landscape 
gardener to hamper me, and with the assistance of a stone-boat, an intelligent 
team, a stupid driver, and my ordnance sergeant, who had learned obedience 
m the army, I revelled in stones. I planted and replanted ; I squmted down 
lanes and vistas until each stone satisfied me. 

With rye straw I thatched the gate in the north, and also a second 
summer house on the Principal Hill over the grotto. My fences were made 
of bamboo fishing-poles tied with rough hemp rope. I built an impossible 
red bridge over the dry arm of the lake. It is a facsimile of the one in the 
Wistaria Garden at Kameido, Tokio. Here again I borrowed from the 
"pleasure garden," but I needed a bit of colour to balance the red sacred 
gate leading to my fox-god shrine at the northern end. 



Japanese Gardening for Small Areas 271 

In building this bridge I am afraid I have la'd myself open to the same 
criticism that might be made of most Japanese gardens in America, which 
are generally too lavish in bronze storks and expensive dwarf trees. They 
remind me of the new florid style of Tokio pottery, manufactured for the 
American trade, and not at all like the subdued grace of the old Satsuma 
ware. Though I have some few Japanese plants, the tree that looks its 
part the best is a grotesque lilac which I found in the back yard of an adjacent 
farm. The garden as it stands has cost me, including everything, about 
one thousand dollars. When once installed, the expense of keeping such 
a garden is slight. As the elements beating upon the summer houses 
weather the unpainted wood, so does every freshet add character to 
the outlines of the hills and brooks. The last cloudburst did more for 
my garden than my whole summer's work. 



II. The Japanese Garden in Golden Gate Park 
By C. H. Town-send and E. C. B. Fassett 

There is probably no scheme of gardening which offers greater pos- 
sibilities for diversified arrangement within a limited space than 
that followed by the Japanese. It is essentially landscape gardening 
requiring an uneven surface — there must be hills and valleys, groves and 
open spaces, rivulets, pools, rocks, and whatever is suggestive of the natural 
landscape. Much that is formal is introduced in the way of bridges, buildings, 
stone lanterns, bamboo trellises, and potted trees. Taken as a whole, the 
features which compose it are all more or less in miniature, excepting the 
original trees of the locality and the buildings. Being a representation 
of the scenery of a country within narrow limits, it is in reality a condensed 
landscape. Notwithstanding the high degree of art upon which it depends, 
it is much more natural in conception than the gardens of other countries, 
with their clipped box hedges, walks, and growths of all kinds in straight 
rows or in exact mathematical curves. 

The Japanese garden has been little more than an experiment in this 
country. There is a large and notable one in Golden Gate Park, at San 
Francisco, created as a Japanese exhibit at the Midwinter Fair, in 1893. 
This garden comprises a half -acre of hillside, on which are groups of scrubby 
pines from twenty to thirty feet high, and is enclosed by a unique fence in 



272 How to Make a Flower Garden 

natural wood with a coping. A grade, leading up from the park roadway to 
the temple-gate entrance of the garden, is dug into low, broad steps, each 
earthy terrace supported by a row of cobbles. Although said to be not 
entirely correct as a Japanese garden gateway, the entrance structure is a 
thing of beauty, its quaint contours and the weathered gray of its timbers 
appealing at once to the eye. 

Within the garden there are two thatch-roofed tea-houses overhanging 
fish-ponds, where tea is served by Japanese women in native costume. As 
you drink tea in the garden, you naturally share the crisp Japanese cakes 
with the expectant goldfishes clustered below. On higher ground in the 
rear is a Japanese house. 

The ponds are supplied by a stream that comes trickling most naturally 
down the hill over its artificial stony bed. The stream is the overflow from 
a rock-built well-curb into which water splashes from a couple of well-buckets, 
the rope suspending them being m reality the pipe which conveys the water 
from a distant reservoir. A mass of bamboo and pine conceals three sides 
of the water source and gives an air of sylvan retreat. Visitors are iqclined 
to follow the course of the artfully natural stream as it tumbles m cascades 
over the rocks, or widens into pools crossed by arched rustic bridges, or 
narrows where just a stepping-stone suffices for a crossing. In the pools 
water-plants flourish, and along the rocky banks are ferns, mosses, liUes, 
and other suitable plants, with here and there an overhanging pine branch. 

The miniature lakes have the irregular shore outlines of natural lakes, 
and lie in well-diversified country, if the term country can be applied to so 
limited an area. Their shores are low in places, with grassy margins, and 
high in others and covered with shrubbery. Here and there are little groups 
of stunted Japanese pine trees only a couple of feet in height. The ponds 
are really quite shallow, probably not more than a foot in depth. After 
being dug, they are paved with stones, the paving extending up to the shore 
margin, and the entire bottom covered with cement to prevent the accumula- 
tion of mud. Their bottom levels are so arranged that they can be readily 
drained and cleaned, and, being of small size, the flow of water is sufficient 
to prevent their becoming stagnant. The rustic bridges are of proportions 
suitable to their surroundings, but all wide enough and strong enough to 
carry passengers in single file. 

Along the walks, sections of low bamboo fencing are created, doubtless 
more for the purpose of ornament than to protect the tiny lawns. A high 



Japanese Gardening for Small Areas 275 

bamboo fence covered with wistaria encloses a yard containing a pair of 
cranes — white, with black markings — that look as though they might have 
just alighted from a flight across a Japanese fan. Paths, rather wider than 
those of gardens in Japan, are mtroduced of necessity, as this garden is 
quite a pubhc place. Where the walks lead over uneven ground, low, broad 
steps are cut into the earth, each being banked with a log cut the width 
of the path. 

One would never know it was a square garden until after complete 
exploration, as only a part of it can be seen from any single position, owing 
to the distribution of its knolls, larger trees, and buildings. Much of its 
charm would doubtless be lost with any cutting away of shrubbery that 
would reveal more to the eye and leave less to the imagination. 

A garden of this kind is one of constant study and development, and 
becomes to the Japanese a little land of poetry, full of quaint symbolism 
and refined ornament, appealing to the higher senses. To know this garden 
is to love it, and its subtle charm does not fail. Of all restful places, it is 
most so, and, though of small compass, there are many points of view, with 
seats artfully placed, where pleasing vistas reward the eye. There are a 
score of garden-lovers in San Francisco who feel that they must visit it at 
least once a week and watch Mr. Hagiwara, the gardener, at his work. 

In a certain city a library window that once looked out on a thirty-by- 
forty back yard of the plainest description — a typically dreary back yard — 
now offers a view of a tiny Japanese landscape where moderate-sized stones 
represent boulders and bushes stand for trees. The stepping-stones are 
small, it is true, but they lead around knolls and bits of shruobery and across 
a tiny bridge. A bamboo trellis above the board fence supports vines that 
shut from view everything undesirable. 

A friend with whom we drank tea in the San Francisco garden has 
written this: "I have a Japanese garden growing in my mind. Some day 
the painted wooden steps leading up past the side of the house into the yard 
in the rear will be replaced by rough stones. Farther back the planks must 
come up and be burned, and there shall be irregular stones to step upon. 
Ferns and small pines shall grow in porcelain bowls, and there will be some 
mossy stones in the corner where it is always shady. Bits of bamboo trellis 
with wistaria shall serve as screens where the outlook is unsightly. Pines 
shall grow on the north terrace and make silhouettes against the sky. The 
useless shed shall somehow be converted into a Japanese summer house. 



276 How to Make a Flower Garden 

I have already located some shrubbery that will be transplanted. At the 
top of the steps a torii will invite entrance, and I will ha\'e a stone lantern 
— a real ishi doro, even if it has to be made to order. I know just what 
trees to plant for blossoms, and a little pond in a sunken tulj will 
hold some water-lilies. 

"I'm sure to find a unique little boulder to set up somewhere, and it 
will be the easiest thing m the world to get earth for a little mound hill. 
There will be double windows, and m the days to come I shall sit in 
Buddha-like contemplation of pleasant things, and great serenity shall 
settle upon my soul." 

As one enters the garden there is first an open, level, sanded area, its 
irregular limits surrounded by small grass-plats, ponds, and the more stunted 
vegetation, with the bridges, tea-houses, and larger trees farther back, and 
many paths with earth-cut steps up the grades that rise from the sanded 
area to several parts of the higher grounds. A wistaria projects beyond 
the eaves of the tea-house, and trellises for vine are of bamboo, supported by 
posts six feet high. Against the rear wooden wall of the garden rises a 
receding tier of heavy wooden shelves, from which grow many varieties of 
dwarfed pines in porcelain pots. 

The original pines in the garden, still erect in their natural symmetry, 
are stripped, one by one, of their Californian simplicity and taught to wear 
the art of Japan. Each tree is studied by the r[uiet gardener. Its possi- 
bilities as a part of its surroundings are carefully worked out and it is put 
to torture. Its young limbs are racked and its back bent until it is trans- 
formed into a creature of weird fantasy. A well-rounded young pine tree 
must be cultivated and cropped ; its limbs must be bent and altered, lopped 
off on one side near the top and on the other near the base, until it looks 
as aged as a veteran of the hilltop after the buffeting storms of years. 

Fancy grooming the foliage of a pine tree ! Yet this ^■ery thing is done 
by boys in the branches, who pull out the old leaves till only fresh green ones 
remain. Here they saw a branch to let in light and a shapely patch of blue 
sky, and there thin out the twigs to leave a fret of pine needles against an 
azure ground. Likewise effective vistas are opened up through the scraggy 
pines. The limbs of the trees, on close inspection, are seen to be twisted 
and braced to produce the picturesque. Each gracefully reaching branch 
in the training is often splintered with bamboo and tied fast with numberless 
hempen strings. As the twig is bent, so grows the tree, and its large branches 



I 



Japanese Gardening for Small Areas 279 

by gentle but persisted suasion. The individualised graces thus imparted 
to each branch excite esthetic emotions, even in those who have no knowl- 
edge of the symbolic suggestions thereby conveyed. The Japanese hold a 
worshipful attitude toward "the honourable pine," and their never-ending 
care produces results which are a revelation. 

Blossoming plants are selected with care to bloom in rotation. At 
one visit you find the garden with azaleas not great bush shrubs, but dainty, 
well-bred plants, each blossom perfect and of exquisite colour. Another 
time the Japonicas alone are in evidence, but in such harmony that one 
forgets other flowers have bloomed there. Still again, some time in February, 
pink flowers burst forth from the twisted branches of the dwarfed almonds, 
and after these bloom the plums and cherries. In the autumn there are 
chrysanthemums. It must not be understood that flowers are numerous 
at any time. One of the charms of Japanese gardening, as of art, is the 
simplicity and freedom from overcrowded variety ; they subordinate lesser 
things to a single point of interest. They insist upon restful spaces, and the 
beauty of a single spray must be revealed and emphasised. 

The Japanese garden is more than a flower garden, and its attractions 
are not confined to the brief season of flowers. In winter it is not a waste 
of broken-down stalks. The pines m their quaint and weird forms are 
there in winter as in summer; the pathways among the evergreens and 
boulders, across the bridges, and under the arches, still bear the alluring 
aspect of a garden. 

Even the fences are always important in the decoration. The minor 
enclosures are of bamboo, while the fence enclosing the garden is made of 
weathered wood, showing the natural grain. The buildings also show the 
knots and grain of the wood. Pamt is not used on any of the garden's 
structures. 

Single flat stepping-stones are much used by the Japanese, and they are 
placed so artfully that one naturally follows their meanderings. The paths 
must suggest the most natural courses from point to point. But neither 
the fences nor the paths are straight, if the gardener thinks the topography 
will permit of their being made otherwise. Japanese stone lanterns are 
effectively "placed in favourite locations, such as on small islands or 
overlooking the water. 

It is the gardener's art to place the seats, arbours and summer houses 
for the best views of the garden's attractions. Openings are made through 



280 How to Make a Flower Garden 

the shrubbery to offer inviting glimpses beyond, where some one thing is 
given prominence, although it may be only a fine boulder or an artistic roof 
over a drinking basin. The boulders, in the beauty of this natural roughness, 
are emphasised after they have been located by the Japanese gardener. 
No art of the stonecutter could make them more attractive, while the use to 
which some are put compels approval from its very genuineness. 

Stone lanterns, porcelain bowls and wooden structures vary the scheme 
of decoration with their shapes outlined upon the somber foliage. The 
ishi doro — the stone lantern, the torii — the archway with double timbers 
across the top, said to be an invitation to the birds, are, like other 
structures in the garden, full of meaning to the Japanese, but these decorative 
accessories do not convey to the foreign mind so much that they could not 
be dispensed with and the simple garden adopted at its real value as a 
natural scheme. 

The Japanese create even smaller models of landscapes — gardens so 
tiny that they may occupy no more space than the top of a good-sized table. 
In these the merest pebbles do duty as rocks, a capful of stones will construct 
a clifif, and a bunch of small plants serve for a forest, while the paths and 
streams may be spanned by a finger's breadth. 

Landscape gardening is said to have been introduced into Japan from 
China, where Buddhist priests had created miniature landscapes in the 
temple gardens. It was to this end that the dwarfing of trees and shrubs 
became a necessity. The artistic purpose was to copy the attractions of 
a true landscape and to give the impression that a real one conveys. It 
stands for a picture, not merely to look upon, but one to stroll about in and 
to be enjoyed from within the picture itself. The Japanese garden is as 
much an art creation as is a painting. 

There are several styles of gardens in Japan, having in common many 
names and much folklore, but they are also individualised as the gardener 
— a poet or priest, as he may be — endeavours to express some mood of nature. 
There are "hill gardens," or "flat gardens," in their various "rough" or 
"finished" fashions, and there are trees for a framework of foliage, or stones 
for the laying-out of a ground-plan. Perhaps by the reading of this sketch 
of a transplanted Japanese garden in America some one having a patch 
of rugged ground covered with trees and bushes may be tempted to convert 
it into a garden somewhat of the Japanese pattern. 




CHAPTER XVII. WILD GARDENS 

I. Wild Gardening in a Small Area 

By James J. Allen 

CANNOT remember ever to have seen the gentle art of 
wild gardening numbered among the kingly sports, yet of 
them all there is perhaps none more worthy of the name. 
When we read in Mr. Robinson's entertaining book how 
whole estates may be devoted to its development, we can 
understand how the ideal wild garden may call for time, money and 
elaborate equipment such as only those of princely birth and fortune 
may be presumed to possess But it is not of such extensive affairs that 
I purpose to speak, but of a modest experiment of my own, one quite 
within the reach of any purse, and calling for no more of royalty than 
inheres in any citizen who exercises sovereignty over his own back yard. 
In fact, mine is such an unpretentious little thing that I am hardly worthy 
to be called a wild- gardener, and it may be thought presumptuous for me 
to speak as if I was an accepted member of the guild. Still I have noticed 
that the true wild-gardener is to be recognised by certain qualities of the 
mind and heart rather than by the number of acres over which his possessions 
extend. If he delights in the out-of-door life; if he prefers the field laughing 
with daisies and spotted with Queen Anne's lace to the regularly laid out 
garden he exhibits some of the hall-marks of the brotherhood. There is 
hope for him that he may yet attain to that attitude of tolerant contempt for 
all purely conventional gardening which is the distinguishing characteristic 
of the wild gardener. There never yet was one at all worthy of the name 
who could ab de a regular flower-bed. Your prim and formal border is an 
abomination to him, and it is a settled canon of his cult that wild gardening 
bears about the same relation to the ordinary kind that epic poetry does to 
the roundelay. And I take it to be some evidence of inward grace and 
worthiness that the feeling appeals to me as by no means indefensible. Just 
as if there were not beauty enough in the individual flowers, but we must 

283 



284 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



strive to construct out of them a lot of formal beds, designed after the latest 
oilcloth, and in which the subtle and delicate beauty of the parts is lost in 
the commonness of the whole ! 

It is much the same as if the masterpieces in the Uffizi were grouped 
together so as to reproduce the mosaics in its pavement, and all the sweetness 

of Fra Angelico, the grace of 
Raphael, and the power of 
Buonarroti were sacrificed to the 
mediocrity of a Greek border. 
If one can imagine how Ruskin 
would have felt over such an 
arrangement of the masters, one 
can understand how it is that all 
lovers of the wild garden the world 
over go back to nature for their 
inspiration, and echo Mr. Robin- 
son's prayer for deliverance from 
the "death note of the pastry 
cook's garden." But to our 
subject. 

The country home faces upon 
a street in a little rural community 
not so far from New York but that the proprietor of the wild garden, who 
works for a living during such intervals as his royal pastime allows, has no 
trouble in passing daily back and forth. From the side and rear the house 
looked out upon a piece of waste ground which, until my novitiate began, had 
been abandoned to the sumac and the bramble. This was separated from the 
cultivated garden and the road by a terrace four feet high, surmounted 
along its entire length by a trellis covered with sweet peas. Behind this 
trellis and the bank the seclusion was complete. It was here that I started 
the wild garden, working entirely screened from the road, while my two 
young but enthusiastic assistants sat in the shade and offered advice upon 
the various problems of floriculture as they presented themselves. 

I commenced by uprooting the briers and the sumac bushes, being 
careful to preserve such natural features as the place possessed. A couple 
of boulders were rolled into picturesque positions, and clusters of bushes 
were left standing here and there. In one corner near the house a clump 




^ dog's-tooth violet 



Wild Gardens 



285 



of tall white birches grew directly out of the terrace. Another comer was 
filled with a dense growth of staghom sumac. Not far off was a fair-sized 
maple. These furnished shade, so necessary where forest-loving plants are 
to be naturalised. But by far the most attractive of the natural features 
of the garden was a wild grapevine with gnarled and twisted stem, as thick 
as one's wrist, which had clambered up over a couple of birches, covering 
them with its interlacing arms and bending them over by its weight, until 
they formed a natural arbour of great beauty. Two wild cherry trees standing 
nearby furnished convenient support on which the birches leaned when the 
midsummer wealth of leaves and fruit made the vine too heavy for them to 
bear. From a little distance off it rose above the surrounding bushes with 
the symmetry of a dome, the broad, overlapping leaves covering it as with 
tiles. Beneath was a veritable bower, at all times shady, and a spot 
presenting many possibilities. Such were the prominent features of my wild 
garden, as yet uninhabited except 
by the ever-present daisy, the 
goldenrod, and the aster. 

The task which now presented 
itself was to fill this up — to bring 
from forest and meadow and 
swamp every plant that was 
"pleasant to the sight," and make 
it to grow in the garden. The 
work was commenced in the early 
spring, and the hepatica and the 
violet were planted in masses 
beneath the vine-covered birches. 
Here, too, I set out in favourable 
positions, under the tangled lower 
branches of the trees, colonies 
of the pink lady's-slipper and 

Rueanemone 

of the showy orchis. In the 

shade of the maple were naturalised the mountain laurel and the 
wild azalea, with such success, too, that both bloomed the season 
after transplanting. Along the fence the wild sunflower was started, 
and it has grown since with increasing profusion. Under the cluster 
of birches near the house I commenced a fern bed, and in early May excited 




286 How to Make a Flower Garden 

the mild amazement of the cows by wheehng up through the pastures 
where they grazed barrow-loads of rmfolding fiddleheads. Among the ferns 
were planted the trillium, the pyrola, and a few stalks of the graceful, if evil- 
scented, cohosh. Out in the open lot, and just close enough to the maple 
for its swaying branches to give alternate sun and shade, I established a fine 
colony of wild bergamot. The flowers were fovmd in a distant field, where 
they grew m great irregular masses, like a lake of lavender in a sea of green. 
With great labour I brought a quantity of the roots home. All about them 
I spread a broad, thick mat of creeping thyme. The next year, when both 
came up m their beauty, the picture was well worth seeing. Verily, no 
Oriental monarch sits upon carpet more magnificent ; nor can the looms of 
Wilton nor of Brussels nor of far Bagdad produce its equal ! At all times 
an exquisite green, there comes a day when myriads of unsuspected buds 
blossom .into simultaneous beauty, and presto ! the " bank whereon the wild 
thyme blows " rivals in its carpeting the tapestries of Ormus and of Ind. 

Beside one of the boulders a populous little community of the Venus's 
looking-glass was planted. To my mind there is something peculiarly 
attractive about this little plant — an out-of-the-way something that baffles 
definition. With its slender, tapering spires, curiously turned and clasped 
at regular intervals by circular, shell-like leaves, each with its star-flower 
seated on the stem, it is enough different from everything else to suggest 
no analogue near at hand. I have studied them often, unable to satisfy 
myself whether they resembled more a forest of diminutive totem poles 
or a village of liliputian pagodas. 

Out in the blazing sun the gorgeous butterfly-weed spread its orange 
blossoms above the grass, an attractive flower, and so plentiful that one 
would think none easier to procure. But let me warn any enthusiastic 
proselyte, with all the earnestness that the memory of aching back and 
blistered hands can give, that it is easier to draw up leviathan with a hook 
than to raise the obstinate asclepias from the depths to which its fleshy 
roots go down. 

A fallen tree or an old stump is an invaluable possession for a wild garden. 
No matter how bare or unsightly at first, the Virginia creeper or the Virgin's 
bower will clothe it in a year or two in draperies that nothing can surpass. 
Just under one edge of my grapevine I placed a curious stump that I found 
in one of my rambles near a neighbouring lake. I astounded a native by 
paying him twice his charge for carting it home. Had he known my delight 



Wild Gardens 



287 



over its discovery he might have exacted fourfold with impunity. But I 
managed to conceal my eagerness under a most indifferent exterior, and thus 
the tide of opportunity in the life of one rustic passed unnoticed. The 
stump was hollowed out with age, and shaped somewhat like a boat. Filled 
with leaf-mould, it makes a picturesque habitation for the partridge vine, 
the flowering wintergreen, the pipsissewa, and the smaller ferns. All along 
one side it rests upon a bed of moss, and near it I have inserted thirty 
or forty roots of the false Solomon's seal. Back of these a more pretentious 




False Solomon's seal 



fern bed has been planned. Here great masses of the interrupted fern have 
been installed, along with the ostrich fern and the stately osmundas, the 
tall varieties in the rear and sloping down to the shield ferns and the humble 
polypody in front. Next year, if all goes well, that corner embowered 
beneath its vine, and flanked with ferns, will be as charming as Titania's 
dell. Even this year it was full of interest. If one had gone there in the 
early spring, before the buds on the birch trees had burst or the grapevine 
put forth a single leaf, one would have found the ground purple with hepatica, 
planted the year before. They had hardly gone when the violets took 
possession. A little later, beneath the tangled lower branches of the trees, 
a number of stout green cones could have been seen pushing their way up 
through the mould. These were the lady-slippers and the showy orchis. 
All winter long I had been wondering whether the spring would call them 
into life again, so that now I watched the imfolding of the pairs of broad, 
oval leaves with intense interest. Probably a dozen of each had been set 
out. All came up, and more than half of them bloomed as naturally as m 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



their native wilds. Indeed, nothing could be more lifelike than the low 
purple and the white spikes of the one and the nodding pink bags of the other, 

as they grew amid the tangle of 
dead twigs about the foot of the 
trees. To see them growing there 
in their freshness one had to pinch 
himself to realise that only a 
hundred feet away was a much- 
travelled road, lined with street 
lamps, and that just beyond the 
terrace was a most conventional 
and ladylike border of coleus, 
geranium, and the like. This was 
my first great triumph. I had 
brought to my very doors a bit of 
woodland life such as Nature 
reveals, as a great favour, to a 
chosen few — something which 
only those who seek her in her 
most secluded haunts are ever 
permitted to see. 

The most serious difficulty with 
which I had to contend in the 

TrUlium eranditlorum. w.th loolhworl in ihe foreground COnstrUCtioU of my wild garden WaS 

the lack of natural moisture. A 
small pond or running stream is almost a necessity. So many of our 
most beautiful wild flowers live in the lush lowlands that a garden 
that cannot at least approximate those conditions must perforce forego 
many a handsome inhabitant. Of course, in my modest patch of 
ground, with its total area of little more than a city lot, lakes and 
rivulets were things merely to be dreamed of. Even so homely a 
matter as a bit of swamp was beyond my power of production, all efforts 
to that end resulting in nothing better than a mudhole. The best I could 
do was to build of stone and cement a rectangular tank, which I connected 
with one of the leaders of the house and thus made it do service as a miniature 
pond. With the aid of the garden hose I had no trouble in keeping this full, 
and the overflow kept the ground below it at all times fairly wet. In this 




Wild Gardens 



289 



tank I placed the yellow-spattered dock, the purple pickerel-weed, the arrow- 
head, and the white water-lily, all gathered from a lonely pond in the woods, 
and in one end a compact mass of wild forget-me-nots, lifted from the margin 
of a nearby stream. In the wet ground were planted the early spring cress, 
the painted cup, and a little later on the pitcher plant, the purple -fringed 
orchis, and a dozen or more specimens of the pogonia and the calopogon. 
Surrounding these were placed the taller and more vigorous of the water- 
loving plants. At one end I put se\-eral stalks of the tall meadow rue, and 
about them a few plants of the 
tawny touch-me-not. Back of 
these I massed the cardinal flower 
and the great lobelia. Along 
the edge and farther from the 
tank grew the hyssop skullcap, the 
purple vervain, and the yellow 
sundrops. At the other end a 
great quantity of the blue flag was 
set out, and a little way off a 
thrifty bunch of marsh marigold. 
During the year of transplanting 
all did well, for I was careful to 
keep everything wet. But I knew 
that the test would come in the 
fall, when the country house would 
be closed and the delicate plants 
would be left upon a dry hillside, 
with no other moisture than the 
natural rainfall until the follow- 
ing spring. 

As I might have expected, 
with the more tender flowers I 
failed. Such of the pitcher plants 
as survived the winter sent up a 
few lean and impoverished 
pitchers, but none of them had 

vitality enough to produce a flower. To my surprise, half a dozen 
pogonias and a few calopogons struggled to maturity amid the 




nd best of the goldenrods 'Solidago Canadensis) 



290 How to Make a Flower Garden 

grass, and bloomed. Exquisite in colour and fragrance they were, but it 
was easy to see that in the adverse conditions in which they were 
placed they were not the "fittest" that were destined to survive. With the 
flowers of more vigorous habits I succeeded better. The Joe Pye weed grew 
like the fabulous beanstalk. The blue flag was a miass of colour, and right 
in the midst of it a sturdy buttercup scattered its golden disks in all directions. 
This illustrates one of the happy accidents of wild gardening, for many a root 
is brought in unawares, to grow to maturity and surprise us some morning 
by flaunting its unexpected flowers in our face. The tall meadow-rue and 
the jewel-weed made a combination of considerable beauty. But the cardinal 
flower surpassed them all. Ordinarily, too few buds open at once, and conse- 
quently the one-sided racemes, in spite of their brilliance of colour, present 
a ragged and incomplete appearance. But, owing to some magic of soil or 
sun, my flowers burgeoned out rich and full. Such magnificence of colour, 
such compactness of bloom, I have never seen. The flowers actually over- 
lapped one another like scales, and the inflorescence was without a break. 
For whole weeks they stood there like tapers of vermilion flame; and day 
by day I watched them as, with the advancing bloom, the superb colour 
crept slowly up the stems, until at length the last glory flickered at the top 
and died. And all that was left were a number of unsightly stalks on which 
the seed-cases were already beginning to turn brown. 

Of course, I had many disappointments ; but these are not so pleasant 
to dwell upon. Many a specimen transplanted with tender care never came 
up. Moles beneath the surface, and rabbits above, had to be reckoned with. 
Once a workman hired to clear out the weeds eradicated a thriving colony 
of the beautiful though ephemeral day-flower; and occasionally when I 
returned at night I found that during the day my junior assistant had dug 
up my most cherished possession. 

Nevertheless, in spite of all drawbacks, the making of the wild garden 
has been a pleasure. Holidays, vacations, and many an hour snatched before 
and after the business of the day, have been devoted to its care. Woods 
and meadows and mountains have been explored, and the search after the 
hiding-places of the rarer flowers has had about it some of the keen enjoyment 
of the chase. In the three years that it has been a-building quite a deal has 
been accomplished. From the time the first hepatica opens its eyes until 
the last gentian shrivels in the frost some eighty species bloom within its 
narrow boundaries. And most of these have been brought there, in basket 



Wild Gardens 293 

or wheelbarrow, from the country round. The stocking of the garden has 
furnished an object for every ramble and been the dominant idea in 
every drive. It has involved manual labour of the most arduous kind, 
for I had no corps of servants to whom I could say go hither and they 
went, nor do this and it was done. The garden, such as it is, is the work 
of my own hands, and the enjoyment I find in it is heightened by the 
labour it cost. If the making of it has brought me into closer contact with 
nature, so has it also awakened a wider sympathy with man. One cannot 
push a loaded wheelbarrow over many miles of unbroken country without 
getting rid of much of his indifference toward the men who work with their 
hands. As a recreation it has displaced tennis and the wheel, and even the 
links hold out their allurements in vain. Recreation, instruction, work: 
these three are found in my wild garden. What royal game can offer more f 



II. California Wild Flowers for American Gardens 

By Joseph Burtt Davy 

The beauty of many of our California wild flowers and their suitability 
for garden culture are not as well recognised by the horticulturist and garden- 
lovers of our own country as by those of other lands. In England, for 
example, no town or country garden would be considered complete without 
its "herbaceous border," containing among plants from other lands many 
of the charming flowers which make the California hills and plains, and even 
deserts, such a blaze of glory in the months of February, March, and April. 
Among these old-fashioned favourites is the golden orange Eschscholzia, 
or California poppy, usually grown in northern Europe as a summer annual. 
How well I remember the keen delight I took, in my boyhood days, in running 
out into the garden in the dewy hours of the June mornings to watch the 
little patches of Eschscholzia, sown by my mother's own hand, throw off 
their quaint nightcaps and show their rich, satiny petals at the first touch 
of the sun's rays, and the dainty little "baby blue -eyes, " and the prettily 
spotted Nemophila macidata, drooping with the weight of glistening dew- 
drops, respond with a welcoming smile to the gentle caress of the sun. Other 
summer annuals from far-off California always graced our flower beds — 
slender pink clarkia, gorgeous lilac godetia, blue lupine, pink calandrinia, 
the quaint, pink-and -white collinsia, called by California children "Chinese 



294 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



pagodas"; yellow collomia, dainty, white, pale-yellow or pinkish "meadow 
foam" (Floerkia), bright little "birds' eyes" (Gtlia tricolor) , ■prim tidy-tips 

(layia), golden bartonia {Mentzelia 
Lindleyi), rich blue California bell- 
flower (Phacelia Whitlavia), and the 
delicately cream-coloured " cream- 
cups" {Platystemon Calif amicus). 

In the shrubbery, also, California 
is represented among the earliest 
flowering shrubs of spring by the 
beautiful pendulous, pink racemes of 
the flowermg currant, with its spicy 
odour, and the golden-flowered, 
evergreen mahonia. 

I could easily describe a dozen 
other species which would grace the 
garden of the most fastidious lover 
of flowers, provided he is not 
wedded to the formal bedding-out 
style of gardening. I may only 
mention, however, the white forget- 
me-not (Plagiobothrys), with its 
fuzzy, warm bud-covering of rich- 
brown hairs: California children call 
it the "pop-corn flower," but the 
more poetic Spanish-Califomians 
euphoniously named it Nievitas, the 
diminutive of nieve (snow). This is 
an annual plant, grown from seed, 
and, like the gilias, is found on the 
dry plains and hillsides of middle 
California. Singly, this plant is not 
showy, but sown in a mass it is 

Win.ergreen «nd Indian pip= WOndcrfully effcCtivC. 

Shooting stars (page t,t,) are charming spring flowers. There are 
three or four species in California. The plant is also called " mosquito bills," 
"wild cyclamen," "mad violets," "prairie-pointers," " pickler-bills, " and 




Wild Gardens 



29s 



"roosters' heads," the latternameappHedby boys with fighting propensities, 
who gather two stems, hook the flowers together, and pull to see which head 

will come off first. The most 

beautiful species of them all is 
Cleveland's shooting star {Dode- 
catheon Clevelandi), from southern 
California, blossoming in the early 
springtime, even before the baby 
blue-eyes are awake. It sends up a 
tall shaft, crowned \vith a large 
cluster of beautiful blossoms, vary- 
ing from a delicate lilac to pure 
white. The petals are ringed below 
with pale yellow, and the beak of the 
flower is a rich prune-purple. There 
is a generous, fine look about these 
flowers, although they are exquisitely 
delicate. Their charm is completed 
by delicious perfume, like that of 
the cultivated cyclamen. 

Shooting stars are perennial, 
tuberous-rooted plants, not difficult 
of cultivation if properly managed. 
They can be grown in pots, like the 
cyclamen, and dried off when the seeds 
mature and the leaves wither. They 
should then be kept dry until late in 
the following fall, when they may be 
gently watered and placed near the 
light if they are to be flowered in the 
house, or placed outside in the spring, 
care being taken not to allow them 
too much water. They should be 
protected from mice while dormant. 

The beautiful prickly phlox, Gilia Californica, is a bushy perennial 
plant with densely fascicled needle-like leaves and masses of handsome pink 
or lilac flowers. The texture of the petals "is of the finest silk, with an 




Dalibarda repens 



296 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



exquisite sheen," and the blossoms have a deHcate fragrance. It grows on 
dry hills, or on the plains in dry, gravelly washes of torrential streams, in 
southern California and northward to Monterey. This plant has a peculiar 
charm for the traveller, because it produces such bright masses of colour 
among the cacti and boulders of the most desolate "washes," so characteristic 




The lemor. ]iiy (::ot an American plant) along a driveway 

of those semi-arid regions with torrential rains, where there is not enough 
natural verdure to check the rushing of? of the waters. And it charms one 
by its generosity in blooming so late in the summer season, when the hills 
have exchanged the greenness of their winter costume for the sere brownness 
of the summer, which is our dormant season, when the roads are thick with 
dust, and when few other wild flowers are to be seen. 



Wild Gardens 297 

The annual and perennial herbs, though the most noticeable, are not 
the only plants of California which produce beautiful flowers. We have 
gorgeous masses of pink rhododendron and cream-and-yellow azalea in 
springy places on mountainsides; the deep magenta chaparral-pea forms 
dense, tangled, ir 'penetrable thickets of spiny shrubs on the dryer and more 
exposed ridges of the same mountains, intermixed with the white tresses of 
the chamisal and the delicate pink or white waxen bells of the manzanita ; 
elsewhere we find the glorious white halos of the Matilija poppy, the stately 
cream-coloured spikes of the yuccas, and dozens of other ornamental shrubs, 
too numerous to mention here, which would grace any garden. Our orna- 
mental flowering trees are few, but the creamy trusses of Madrona blossoms, 
succeeded by bright scarlet berries, and the white candelabras of the 
California buckeye, are worthy a place in any garden. Among the shrubs, 
none are greater favourites or more characteristic of California than the 
blue -tinted ceanothus, or California lilac. It grows on arid, shaly slopes 
of the mountains near the ocean, where it can catch a whiff of salt-laden 
air, and seems to reflect some of the blueness of the water in its masses of 
blossoms. Often it forms the prevailing shrub over areas of hillside many 
acres in extent, to which it gives a quiet and hazy china-blue tint. 
California lilac was cultivated in the gardens of the early settlers in San 
Francisco until replaced by exotics, often much less worthy of a place there; 
it is now rarely seen in cultivation in the West, though sometimes grown in 
English gardens. The odour of the flowers is peculiar and not altogether 
pleasant, but recalls many a joyous California mountain-climb to one who 
has imbibed a deep love for her solitudes. 




CHAPTER XVIir. ROSES 

I. Where Shall We Plant Roses? 

By L. H. Bailey 

HAT depends on what you want them for. If you want them 
primarily for fine flowers, plant them in an area by them- 
selves, where they can have good care. Roses are highly 
bred plants. They cannot shift for themselves and yet 
maintain all their superlative excellences, any more than 
potatoes or blackberries can. TSfust into the shrubbery, they suffer in 
the com.petition. The flowers deteriorate; the bushes dwindle and die. 
Roses need special treatment and care. They are flower-garden subjects. 

If one wants a good mass of shrubbery, he must choose plants that are 
vigorous, hardy, verdurous, and able in large measure to care for themselves. 
The common named garden roses do not belong to this class of shrubs. 
They are not verdurous. Their foliage is scant, not adapted to mass effects, 
and very liable to insect and fungous attacks. Highly bred roses should not 
be mixed in the general border. 

To all these remarks there are exceptions. Some of the single and 
wild roses are well adapted to shrubbery masses. This is particularly true 
of the East Asian Rosa nigosa (page 317), which is hardy, has an attractive 
habit, strong and picturesque canes, abundant and interesting foliage, 
attractive large white or red single or semi-double flowers, large and conspicu- 
ous fruits, and is practically free from insect and fungous attacks. This rose 
has character as a shrub, winter and summer. 

When I say that roses should be planted by themselves, I do not mean 
that they should be set in the lawn. They are out of place when scattered 
over the yard. They mean nothing there. One cannot cultivate them. 
They are unsightly when tied up in straw for the winter. Their period of 
attractiveness is short. When the bloom is past they are uninteresting. 
In the lawn, the plants must compete with the grass. They suft'er from 
drought. Being scattered, they receive only occasional attention. 

299 



300 How to Make a Flower Garden 

If you are fond of roses, it is a good plan to make a regular rose garden 
at the side or rear of your place, in the spirit that you would make a straw- 
berry bed. Choose good soil. Till, and fertilise, and prune. Work for a 
hea\'y crop — a crop of large and perfect flowers. 

There are certain kinds of roses that are well in place on banks and 
rough borders and against fences and gates. These are usually not the 
highly developed named sorts, however. 

Crimson Rambler is always in place on a porch ; one is shown on page 303. 
The same may be said of the Baltimore Belle and multifiora types, where 
they are hardy. If there is no space in which roses can be separately grown, 
the plants may be placed alongside other shrubbery, and late-blooming 
herbs may be massed about them to supply foliage and to fill the latter part 
of the season. 

There are two questions to ask when you are discussing the place to grow 
roses: Are they to be grown primarily for flowers? Are they to form a 
structural part of the landscape planting? 



II. The ^Iodern Texdenxv in Roses 
By Leonard Barron 

Notwithstanding the nominal position that the rose has held, from 
time immemorial, as the "queen of flowers," it is not to be gainsaid that 
the rose as a garden plant has been relegated of late years to a secondary 
place. It has been overshadowed by the very laudable desire to plant 
more largely of native trees and shrubs, with which have been associated 
the flowering shrubs of Japan. Unfortunately, rose plants are not decorative 
bushes of themselves — at least, the most commonly accepted groups are not, 
and in order to devote space to roses a decided rose enthusiasm is first of all 
needed. A rose plant must be looked upon only as a means to an end — 
glorious roses — and the more this object is kept in view the less ornamental 
does the rose plant become. This is due to the hard pruning that is necessary 
if you would have the best blooms on the hybrid perpetuals, which are the 
only generally reliable kinds for the average garden. 

But there is a change coming over the scene. Since the very wide 
distribution of the popular Crimson Rambler, attention has been directed 
to the possibilities of other groups of roses for various purposes. The avail- 



Roses 



303 



ability of climbing roses for garden 
use has led many into planting this 
and Wichnraiana, and hybrids from 
them, in continually increasing 
numbers. A few progressive horti- 
culturists have seen these thmgs, and 
there is a very marked tendency now 
in various parts of the country to 
raise up a new race of roses which 
will fit our climatic conditions better 
than the French races upon which 
dependence has been placed, and to 
which the mind naturally turns 
whenever the rose is named. The 
strong stm of summer and the 
severe trials of winter make the 
conditions for roses in America very 
different from those that prevail in 
England and in France, and the roses 
which have been bred to meet the 
requirements of those countries do 
not always find things most comfort- 
able for them here. Yet for a long 
time to come reliance must be placed 
upon such varieties of European origin 
as are found best fitted to survive. 

The present trouble with roses 
in American gardens is that the 
bloom falls as soon as it is developed, 
and while we can grow fine wood and 
get a burst of bloom that is marvellous, 
yet it is all over in a day or two, and 
the season of the rose is dead in its 
birth. Therefore is the present 
tendency to try other roses for other 
purposes than the mere blooms. 

There are hybridists at work who 




How to Make a Flower Garden 




H' :jmn^ 




■■•7 V'W ■-'Ti 'TV W ^MA 






Psyche, a climbii 



are endeavouring to blend the 
roses of France and England with 
some of our native species in the 
belief that from the introduction 
of native blood they will obtain 
roses which will stand the 
climate better. May their efforts 
be crowned with success ! The 
creation of a sturdy American 
race will more surely give an 
impetus to rose-culture than will 
the mere multiplication o f 
forcing varieties. 

That the rose can be grown 
with great success is demon- 
strated each year, for the plant 
simply insists on flowering 
profusely in the face of all 
sorts of neglect. What we need 
is the proper adaptation of 
varieties or races. I do not for 
a moment think that the popular 
H. P. roses of to-day will be 
dri\'en out of the garden of the 
rose-lover, nor that where the 
H. T. varieties can be induced to 
live on (with the most solicitous 



Roses 307 

care), that any new races will oust them from our best gardens. No, 
indeed; for they are the roses of sentiment and of common belief. But 
in remote parts of the country where a rose is merely a rose, the demand 
for varieties that will last in flower is great, and when such can be 
introduced there will be roses everywhere. The rose will ne\-er be out of 
fashion or favour, and, given the right varieties, the demand for it 
will increase. 

A marked feature of hardy rose-growing already referred to is in the 
production of what may be called the Rambler hybrids — roses that make 
tremendous growth each year and are suitable for pillar work. Many people 
want rose-bowers and arbours, to which purpose these hybrids are, of course, 
well suited. They are hardy, free-flowering, and of rampant growth, and 
where Wichuraiana has been used in their making, have foliage that is 
almost evergreen and insect-proof. I look to this class as the basis of a 
fresh stimulus for rose-growing in our gardens. 



III. Outdoor Roses for the South 
By p. J. Berckmans 

Out of the hundreds of roses described in floral catalogues, it is some- 
times exceedingly difficult to select such varieties as are best suited for 
open-ground growing in the South. The trouble is that a large majority 
of the varieties of tea-roses are of such weak constitution as to unfit them 
for the above purposes, and are suitable only for forcing under glass. By 
the indiscriminate selection of new roses offered with extravagant descriptions, 
many of our enthusiastic amateur rosarians have met with disappointment. 
Preference should be given to old favourites which have withstood the test 
of years and have long been the glory of Southern gardens. Scores of new- 
comers have of late taken their places, only to disappear with their first 
season of growing, if, indeed, they grew at all. 

Years ago, before the forcing of roses under glass had stimulated produc- 
tion of varieties intended for that purpose, the originators of new sorts 
looked more to a robust constitution, combined with a profusion of bloom, 
perfection of shape, and lasting colours, than to the characters that now 
constitute the up-to-date forcing rose. Forcing roses require the utmost 
skill and careful regulation of artificial temperature to bring out their wonder- 



3o8 How to Make a Flower Garden 

ful fine points. At the South there are many classes or types of roses which 
grow to great perfection, but cannot withstand the cold of the Northern 
winters. There is, therefore, a greater range in selecting varieties for 
special purposes. 

The tea-roses will doubtless long remain the favourite class ; but in plant- 
ing the proper sorts the amateur must not be misled by selecting those whose 
constitution is too weak to stand the long and warm southern summers. 
We cannot expect to grow in open ground as perfect Brides, Bridesmaids, 
Perles, etc., as are grown under glass, but we still have our Gloire de Dijon, 
Madame Camille, Devoniensis, Marechal Niel, Souvenir de la Malmaison, Marie 
Van Houtte, and scores of others that have survived hundreds of newer 
sorts, and bid fair to survive for many years hence. The climbing Noisette 
roses frequently grow to enormous size, and are noted for the profusion 
and length of blooming. In the Hybrid Perpetual class are found the most 
perfect forms, the short-jointed sorts being as a rule those that bloom during 
the longest part of the growing season. Among some of these varieties, 
as also in the Hybrid Tea section which produces the most exquisite flowers, 
are many which are affected with what is termed "die back," which is often 
followed by the loss of the plant. Among these are La France, American 
Beauty, Caroline Testout, and a few others. Polyantha roses give excellent 
results, and seem to adapt themselves to most soils. 

Again, among the newer tea-roses there is a deficiency in their root 
system which causes a weak constitution. While this defect is less apparent 
when such plants are grown under glass, it becomes more serious when 
planted in open ground. Such varieties may, however, receive increased 
vigour if they are budded upon strong-growing stocks, and after trying many 
of the species used for that purpose by European growers, the Manetti has 
been found the most desirable. Many of our best tea and hybrid perpetuals 
would long since have disappeared from cultivation had it not been for the 
Manetti stock, which is in extensive use. 

As a guide for prospective rose-planters at the South, the following 
lists are suggested as likely to prove the most successful: 

ON OWX ROOTS 

Tea — Bon Silene, Bride, Bridesmaid, Caroline Kuster, Comtesse de 
Breteuil, Christine de Noue, Coquette de Lyon, Duchesse de Brabant, Etoile 
de Lyon, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, Maman Cochet, Marie Guillot, Madame 



Roses 311 

Camille, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Francisca Kruger, Mine. Honore Defresne, 
Meteor, Vicomtesse de Wautiers, Safrano, Zelia Pradel. 

Bourbon — Glory of France, Imperatrice Eugenie, Princess Imperial 
Victoria, Souvenir de la Malmaison. 

Hybrid Perpetuals — A. K. Williams, Anne de Diesbach, Eugene Furst, 
Earl of Dufferm, Alfred Colomb, Coquette des Alpes, General Jacqueminot, 
Gloire Lyonnaise, Jean Liabaud, Mme. Moreau, Mme. Gabriel Luizet, Magna 
Charta, Paul Neyron, Pierre Notting, Pfeonia, General Washington, Perle 
des Blanches, Prince Camille de Rohan, Rev. J. B. M. Camm, Ornement 
des Jardins. 

China — Archiduc Charles, ]\Iadame Carl, Mme. Jean Sisley. 

Polyaiitha — Cecile Brunner, Clothilde Soupert, Marie Favie, Perle d'Or, 
Mozella, Climbing Clothilde Soupert. 

Xoisetie and Climbing — Devoniensis, Elie Beauvilain, Reme Marie 
Henriette, Reve d'Or, Solfaterre, Lamarque. 

BUDDED UPON MANETTI 

Banksia — White and Yellow. 

Tea and Hybrid Tea and Xoiseites —Ca-ptain Christy, La France, Caroline 
Testout, Perle des Jardins, Angelique Veyisset, Chromatella, Mar6chal Niel, 
Niphetos, Emily Dupuy, Madame de Watteville. 

Hybrid Per petuals —American Beauty, Baronne de Rothschild, Doctor 
Henon, Frere Marie Pierre, Francois Michelon, Mabel Morrison. 



IV. Hardy Roses Xear Chicago 
By W. C. Egan 

The vicinity of Chicago, especially that of the bluff lands to the north 
and lying close to the lake, is not an ideal home for roses, but with a proper 
selection of varieties and a suitable winter protection they may be grown 
quite successfully. The following so-called hybrid perpetuals have proved 
the most reliable with me ; 

Carmine, Crimson and Red — Prince Camille de Rohan, General Jacque- 
minot, La Rosiere, Captain Hayward, Anne de Diesbach, Alfred Colomb, 
Countess of Oxford, Ulrich Brunner, Marshall P. Wilder, Louis \'an Houtte, 
Mme. Victor Verdier, Pierre Notting, Eugene Furst, Pasonia. 



312 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Pink and Rose —^iagna. Charta, Mrs. R. G. Sharman-Crawford, Captain 
Christy, Garden Favourite, Paul Neyron, John Hopper, Baronne Prevost, 
Prince of Wales, Lyonnaise, Mile. Suzanna de Rodocanachi. 

White and BIhsIi — 'Mts. Paul, Perle des Blanches, Madame Plantier, 
Hybrid China. 

The following additional ones are quoted as doing well on the "Wooded 
Island" at Jackson Park, Chicago, where the elevation above the lake is 
some eighty feet lower than here at Egandale : Duchess de Morny, Caroline 
de Arden, Bell Normandie, Comtesse de Serenye, La France, G. M. Maurande, 
Baroness Rothschild, Earl of Dufferin, Jean Liabaud. 

I cannot handle La France, 
for the buds brown in the sun, 
nor Mrs. John Laing, which, with 
Jeannie Dickinson, is tender at 
Jackson Park. 

Nearly all of the moss-roses do 
fairly well here, including the new 
remontant forms. Hermosa, 
Clothilde Soupert, and many of 
the so-called dwarf fairy roses, 
especially the exquisite Mile. 
Rosa spinosissima var. Aiiaica Cccilc Brunucr, comc through the 

winter well when protected, and 
bloom all summer. About all of the hybrid tea bedding roses require 
removal to a coldframe in the fall, or a sash and frame placed over them 
for the winter. 

The hardiest climbing garden rose is the Prairie Queen, but it blooms 
much better if slightly protected from the sun's rays during tlie winter. 
The following climbing roses have proved valuable under winter protection: 
Crimson Rambler, Seven Sisters, Dundee Rambler, the Dawson, Thalia, 
Euphrosyne, Paul's Carmine Pillar, Reine Henriette Marie, and Wichuraiana 
and its hybrids. 

Nearly all of the hybrids of R. rngosa are hardy without protection, 
the lovely Mrs. Bruant, with its tea blood, being an exception. Jackson 
Dawson's hybrid rugosas, "The Arnold" and "W. C. Egan, " have done 
exceptionally well. Lord Penzance's hybrid sweetbriers require protection, 
and some even then go back. A set that I have growing against a north 





A good pillar rose. Climbing General Jacquemino 



Roses 



315 



wall, protected in winter by a single thickness of burlap, does the best. The 
Harrison and Persian Yellow do fairly well without protection. The following 
thrive unprotected: R. rugosa, R. mollis, var. pomifera, R. spinosissima, 
var. Altaica (a lovely single white, resembling the Cherokee rose), R. nitida, 
var. alba, R. rnbrifolia (R. ferruginea), and the sweetbriers. 

The following are well adapted to wild gardening, and are native to this 
section : R. setigera, R. Engelmaiini, R. blanda, R. Carolina, and R. humilis. 

V. Pruning Roses 



By B. M. Watson 

In Bailey's "Cyclopedia of American Horticulture" some fifty species 
of roses are enumerated as common in cultivation. From these species 
innumerable varieties have sprung. It seems impossible, in a genus so 
diversified, to give any general rules for pnming, but by classifying roses by 
their habits of growth it is hoped that some help 
may be given the inexperienced grower. It is 
assumed in what follows that the plants are well 
cultivated and have plenty of nourishment. 

I. Hybrid perpetuals, hybrid teas, Provence 
and moss roses are best grown as bushy plants. 
They should be severely cut back while dormant 
in spring, but never in summer or early autumn, as 
is sometimes done because they are straggling and 
look unkempt in an otherwise neat garden. From 
two-thirds to four-fifths of last year's wood, and all 
weak shoots, are removed. This results in strong 
growths, producing large flowers, the size of which 
can be increased by disbudding. If numerous 
.smaller flowers are desired — i. e., quantity at the 
expense of quality — the shortening-in need not be 
carried so far. It is permissible to cut back only 
one-half, but this treatment is objectionable, 

and does not tend to keep the plants in good condition. This winter 
pruning should be supplemented by a summer pruning, which consists 
of simply cutting out the flowering shoots after the flowers fade. 




Hybrid perpetual rose before prun- 
ing. (General Jacqueminot) 



3i6 



How to Make a Flower Garden 




bier before pruning 



It is already done if all the blooms have been gathered. Remove weak 
growths and all sprouts from the stock as they appear. As the plants age, 
worn-out stems must be taken out and the center 
left open to encourage new shoots. Some of these 
roses are short-lived and must e\-entually be 
replaced. Hybrid perpetual roses of weak habit 
— e. g.. Prince Camille de Rohan — should be cut 
back harder than vigorous growers like General 
Jacqueminot, but only when in good health. 
Hybrid teas as a rule require the most severe 
prtining; moss and Provence roses least. 

2. Chmbing roses — the Dawson, Baltimore 
Belle, Prairie Queen, Crimson Ramblers, and 
others — need not be pruned so hard as those above described. Cut off in 
spring, before the buds open, from one -fifth to one-third of the previous 
year's growth; also, in established plants, any of the old, flowering wood 
which is enfeebled. Do not hesitate, even if a part of the trellis is laid 
bare. It is by this means only that these plants can be kept vigorous. In 
summer take out most of the old wood after it is done flowering, 
and train new growths as desired, pinching out weak and objec- 
tionable shoots. 

Half-climbing roses, like the Japanese Rosa multiflora (R. 
polyantha) and its varieties, the sweetbriers, R. setigera, the type 
and the dog rose, are commonly grown as bushes and pruned as 
above described, more attention being paid to cutting out worn- 
out stems and keeping the centers open ; but the 
flowering wood must not be removed after bloom- 
ing where fruit is desired in winter. 

Trailing roses (R. Wiclinraiana and its varieties) 
require comparati\-ely little pruning, particularly 
in the North, where unfavourable seasons are apt 
to kill some of the wood.' By taking out dead 
branches and cutting back enough to restore the 
balance opportunity is given for new growths which are 
essential to keep them in good condition. Half -climbing hybrids of this rose — 
e. g., Mr. Walsh's Sweetheart, Debutante, etc., and the old Ayrshire roses — R. 
arvensis {R. repens) and their varieties — are pruned in much the same way. 




^M 



Crimson Rambler pruned (scale 
vhat larger) 




Rosa rugosa, one of the best roses for the shrubbery 



Roses 319 

The Persian Yellow rose, Harrison's Yellow, and Austrian Brier are not 
strong growers. One must be cautious with the knife, cutting out the 
flowering wood after the blooms fade. In estabHshed plants the worn-out 
stems can be removed at any time. Scotch roses can be treated in the same 
way, and are much benefited by being cut clean to the ground once in about 
seven years. Their habit of spreading by underground stems helps the 
recovery. 

3. Wild roses, R. blanda, Carolina, lucida, nitida, etc., are grown not 
only for the flowers, but for bright twigs and hips, in winter. Consequently 
much depends upon sturdy growth. They are frequently planted in such 
quantity that careful pruning is impossible. Take out the older wood 
from time to time, and at intervals of several years, determined by their 
condition, cut clean to the ground, at the same time giving manure and 
stirring the soil. An equally good method of renewal is to dig up and 
reset the plants, discarding the old and feeble. 

Rosa ritgosa and its variety alba do not require annual pruning, unless 
it be a little shortening-in of the tips — an interminable operation. After 
these plants are well established, however, the older canes should be cut 
out occasionally, thus keeping the center free and encouraging new growths. 
If at any time they are in bad shape from winter-killing or disease, they can 
be 'cut to the ground. Hybrids of Rosa rugosa, like Madame Bruant, are 
helped by spring pruning, cutting back the annual growths, and thinning 
out old wood. 

4. Tender roses, like the teas. Chinas, Bengals, and Bourbons, should 
be cut in at the beginning of the flowering season, and, since they are really 
perpetual bloomers, this process must be continued as long as the season 
lasts. Weak and unproductive shoots must be removed. Cloth of Gold, 
Lamarque, Marechal Niel, and other roses of like habit, are closely pruned 
after their wood is well ripened, when they are most at rest. Under glass, 
this is usually done just before starting them into growth. To bloom the 
Cherokee rose in a cool greenhouse in January and February, four-fifths of 
the summer's growth must be cut away in October. Worn-out canes can 
be removed at any time. The double-flowered varieties of R. Banksia; 
are severely cut back after the blooms have faded, in May or June, in a 
cool house. 

Many methods are employed in propagating roses, but the practice here 
described is simple and effective. Cuttings can be rooted in the garden or in 



320 How to Make a Flower Garden 

the greenhouse. For out-of-door work they should be made in November, 
before severe frost, of wood of the current year's growth. They should be 
cut into lengths of six inches, tied nito bundles with tarred rope, and buried 
eighteen inches deep in sandy soil, and furthermore protected from freezing 
by a covering of leaves. In spring, when the ground is thawed and settled, 
they should be planted in V-shaped trenches m well-prepared beds, using 
a little rotted barnyard manure. The cuttings should stand nearly erect, 
and be so deeply planted that only one bud shows above the surface of the 
ground, two inches apart in the row, with the rows twelve inches apart. 
In this way many desirable hardy roses can be multiplied — e. g., Crimson 
and Yellow Ramblers, the Dawson Rose, Rosa tnidtiflora, R. Wichiiraiana, 
and all their other progeny, R. sehgera, Prairie Queen, and Baltimore Belle, 
etc., also the Jlanetti rose for stock. Under glass, these same varieties will 
give a larger percentage of rooted plants if the cuttings are made two or 
three inches long, planted in pure sand in pots or boxes, and kept in a green- 
house, 45° F These cuttings, also, should be made in autumn, before severe 
weather, of wood just completing its growth. They should be planted 
thickly, about one-half their length deep, and well shaded for three weeks. 
Keep the temperature so low that the buds will not start into growth before 
the cutting is rooted. The young plants can be set out m May, either directly 
from the cutting-bed or after having been established in pots. 



VI. A Rose Bank 

By W. H. vS.\rgext 

Concealing an unsightly bank by transforming it into a rose garden 

accomplishes several desirable objects. It "makes 

-,^j ™™m-.- the waste places to blossom as the rose," and also 

Rosebush-- ■>-^-' j(«™""""v- J^ 

..pX^''^ " ■ affords the plants abundant light, air, and room, 
f ;:k#* which they do not always get if planted in beds 

3/ / -•--S"'' where room is of more value. 

J^ \, J , Pockets should be dug into the side of the 

;£;>* Heavy gardensoil o 

.f' bank and the turf brought forward and shaped 

into basins, as shown in the sketch. In this way 
all the wash from the bank will be collected 



Roses 



321 



around the roots. Climbing roses do particularly well if kept a little 
off the ground. In the North, where the winters are particularly severe, 
the bushes should be pinned back against the bank and covered with 
brush or leaves. 





CHAPTER XIX. HOW I BUILT MY COUNTRY HOME 

A Concrete Example of Landscape Gardening 

By W. C. Eg an 

AM garden-bred, for in the early fifties my father's garden 
was one of the show-places in Chicago ; but I have no recol- 
lection of a fondness for gardening during my youth. A 
strenuous business life of more than thirty-five years in that 
bustling city so impaired my health that my physician 
prescribed a retirement and enjoined a life in the open air. Being 
happily anchored by a growing family, a roving, open-air life was out of the 
question. How was I to occupy my mind, hitherto in constant activity, and 
still remain in one place ? I did not have to consider long. The subtle 
influence of the garden of my youth — so long dormant — asserted itself, 
and an ever-increasing love for shrub and flower and arboreal life seemed 
to say to me: "Why not build and maintain a country home — one of your 
own creation — exhibiting your own individuality? Why not make it your 
garden, not a gardener's garden?" 

The die was cast and a hunt for the site began. The towering blufts and 
wooded ravines bordering. Lake Michigan north of Chicago afforded abundant 
opportunities for selection, and a view of the lake over the wavering foliage 
of the ravine tree-tops caused the selection of a site for the future " Egandale." 
The natural beauties of the site were further enhanced by a wooded ravine 
constituting two-thirds of the boundary lines, whose trees afford a massive 
bank of foliage which is ever refreshing to the eye. 

All this happened fifteen years ago. I had the place, but no knowledge 
of how to develop it. Flowers, shrubs and trees did not grow among my 
business affairs. Nevertheless, I was determined that the place should be of 
my own creation, and so I resolved to go ahead and make my own mistakes 
in my own way. And I made three important ones. 

A dense undergrowth confronted me. The woodman had discovered 
my prize years prior and had appropriated every tree on the main land 
large enough to convert into cord-wood. Of ancestral trees there were 

323 



324 How to Make a Flower Garden 




The house as it looked in 1891. Note the useless trees in the front yard and the awkward curve in the driveway 




How I Built a Country Home 325 

none; but my knowledge of them, being confined to hearsay, caused me to 
imagine every long-shanked oak that grew from a decapitated stump capable 
of being converted into one. I considered that a plethora of ancestral oaks 
would be the crowning glory of a lawn, so I left any towering tree that 
possessed a head. 

My next mistake was in road-making. In laying out my entrance 
roadway I substituted an uncouth curve for a graceful one to save a worth- 
less oak that happily died about the time I discovered my error. 

In the third place, I wanted a rockery, and wanted it where all could 
see it; so I placed it near the center of the lawn. Men, teams and a 
derrick were engaged, and soon boulders, gathered nearby, were piled up, 
one upon another, and a circular rim eight feet in diameter and six feet 
high was erected and filled with soil. It was fearfully and wonderfully 
made, and looked it — not then, however, for I thought it a thing of beauty 
that would last forever. I grew flowers on top, but neglected to furnish a 
step-ladder that they might be seen. 

I soon grew tired of the stork -like trees, that seemed to make no head- 
way, and they were grubbed out. I bought exotics from nurserymen and 
planted them here and there until my lawn was littered up worse than 
ever. My man got dizzy dodging them with the lawnmower. I was not 
satisfied. Something seemed wrong. The place had an unfinished look. 
I was regaining my health, had open-air exercise, but there was a screw 
loose somewhere. 

What little reading I had done in the horticultural line had educated 
me faster than I had improved the place. Fortunately I came across a copy 
of the American Garden, edited in those days by a certain professor now 
at Cornell University. In a leading article on landscape gardening, this 
man advocated an open center and massing at the boundaries. Here was 
an inkling of the cause of my dissatisfaction. I had not opened or massed 
anywhere. I had cluttered. 

When spring came there was an upheaval. The lawn was opened up 
and plantings made in groups at the sides. My lawn seemed to have doubled 
in size. Heretofore the mind was confused when looking down the grounds. 
Now there was a peaceful quietness as the eye glanced along the unbroken 
greensward to the bordering mass of leafy trees. 

The rockery had become a scarecrow. Even the wild geese in their 
migratory flights steered to the right or left of it. I took a lot of pleasure 



326 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



in demolishing it. A s]3ur of the ravine ran into the lawn a hundred feet 
or so, dividing the southern end into two deep bays. I reasoned that the 
same forces that made the spur might have deposited some rocks at its head ; 
and I recalled an outcrop I had seen on the side of a hill in California, where 
Nature supplied the rocks and the birds the plants. So I placed some rocks 
in this spot and endeavoured to imitate it. 

Up to this point I had practically lost four years of precious time. But 
now a new era began. The experience, however, had been worth a great 
deal. It enabled me to warn my friends against the errors with which I 
had struggled. 

In my later plantings I had combined the hardy perennials with the 
shrubs, planting the former in masses, and not repeating the same perennial 
at any one point of view. Each shrubbery bed is so planted that some part 
of it is in bloom from early spring until frost. 

The wooded ravines have been left to Nature's care. Wandering up 
and down the bank is prohibited except where walks are provided, as the 




Side yard in 1902, looking toward the hou 




How I Built My Country Home 



327 



denizens of the wood resent too much famiharity. I found ferns, trilhums, 
hepaticas or a few moccasin flowers in my own woods, and more from the 
neighbouring ravines have been added, until groups and colonies abound. 




used the selection of the site 



These native plants thrill the heart with delight when spring's first breath 
rouses them to activity. 

Along the shrubbery bank bordermg the roadway to the stable, masses 
of squills, snow-drops, crocuses, chionodoxas, grape hyacinths, and narcissi 
herald a season of delight, while above them follow, in bloom, the shad- 
bush, the May-Day tree, and flowermg plums and cherries, and the Missouri 
currant mingles its spicy breath with the scent of the freshly turned soil, 
just aroused from its frozen slumber. All these are but the advance-guard 
of a countless throng of hardy flowers that will open up in well-regulated 
succession, until the stately Anemone Japonica comes to fight its battle 
with Jack Frost. 

My garden is open to all who will love and appreciate its contents, be 
they from the mansion in the park or from the cottager's home. My flowers 
bloom not for me alone, but for those of kindred tastes, and it is a pleasure 
for me to show them. Many delightful friends have thus been made. 

The pleasures of gardening are infinite and varied. One need not delve 



328 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



in the mysteries of botanical lore in order to obtain enjoyment in one's 
intimacy with plant life. It is best to look upon plants as garden friends. 
The hardy forms become in time old-established companions, for each 
spring they arise from their slumber and greet you with renewed life. They 
are like some dear friends returned from a distant journey, whose presence 
we have missed. 

Not the least of garden pleasures is the exchange of surplus plants with 
those of kindred tastes. I have many such cherished plants, some of which 




The side yard in 1890. Worthless trees 



are from friends whom I have never seen. They are pleasant reminders of 
their donors, and, under more constant observation than a photograph 
hidden m an album, they fade not, neither do their gowns go out of fashion. 
It will pay the intending planter to give careful attention to companion 
cropping with ornamental subjects, so that there will be a successful effect 
on the same area, or that the defects of one plant may be remedied or covered 
by the excellences of another. Such a case is pictured on page 30. Here are 
Lilium superhum and peonies. The peony is the earlier riser, starting sooner 
into growth, and maturing its flowers before the lily has shot its blooming spike 
above the surrounding foliage. The lily is thus unseen at this time, and 
takes no part in the floral display, but soon after the withered peony blooms 



How I Built My Country Home 331 

have been cleared away the tall lily spikes emerge from the mass of dark- 
green foliage, and, rising high above it, form their candelabra heads of coral- 
tinted bells. There is economy in this method, as two crops of bloom, each 
differing entirely from the other, are produced from one bed. An allied lily, 
L. Caiiadeiise, found on the drier parts of the meadow, is another that takes 
most kindly to garden life. I use it also as a second-crop flower, and to give 
height and variety to the border. 

I grow the American cowslip, or shooting star, which loses its foliage 
soon after blooming in the spring. Alternating with the plants are Cam- 
patinla Carpatica, whose spreading foliage carpets the ground left bare by 
the disappearing dodecatheons. Here and there in among both these plants 
are placed the Canadian lilies, producing a pleasing combination. Both 
of these lilies may be gathered from our prairies when in bloom, cutting 
their stalks back to within a foot of the ground, and keeping the bulbs 
damp while exposed, planting them where wanted at once or in temporary 
quarters until the fall months. 

There are many beautiful flowering bulbs and plants that we should 
all grow whose foliage ripens off and disappears soon after blooming. They 
are generally of a character requiring planting in masses to be effective, and 
are early to flower and vanish, leaving generous spaces of vacant ground 
until the next spring, adorned only by a monument in the shape of the 
identifying label. This label is essential in large plantings, for without it 
the presence of dormant bulbs might be overlooked and damage done in 
careless digging. How to cover these bare spaces is a matter of importance 
to those who desire their borders to look neat and tidy. I plant snow- 
drops, chionodoxas, scillas, crocus, grape hyacinths, and all of the spring- 
blooming class, in masses under widespreading shrubs, so situated that the 
Sim will reach them during part of the day. 

My physician's prescription should be incorporated in the materia 
medica of all nations. It was extremely pleasant to take, and not only 
restored my shattered health, but was the means of awakening in me a 
lo\'e for the greatest of all delights — one's own garden. 



APPENDIX I 



FLOWERS FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



Suggestive lists based upon the colour and 
season of bloom; the height of the plant; the 
kind of soil, whether light or heavy, moist 
or dry; the conditions of shade or sunshine; 
resistance to frost, and value for cut flowers 
and for maintaining an uninterrupted suc- 
cession of bloom. 



By M. G. KAINS 



EDITORIAL NOTE. — The following Ksts are believed to be fundamentally 
different from all other lists of similar appearance. The great fault with the extended 
lists found in some expensive works on gardening is that they contain too few lists and 
too many plants in each list. Moreover, the Latin names are often put first or used 
to the exclusion of the common names. The result is that such lists appal the beginner 
and are never used. Those which follow are designed to be of every-day practical 
service to beginner and expert. The writer has resolutely turned his back upon the 
impossible idea of absolute completeness, which has made the old lists so repellant and 
unpractical. The keynote of the present endeavour is suggestiveness . Hence there are 
inany lists and few plants in each list. This must be the right principle. Surely, the 
average person does not need fifty or a hundred plants for some one special purpose. 
Four may be enough; six should be ample; ten names will give plenty of choice. 

The net result of the old-time extensive list is to impress the beginner with the 
immense number of plants in cultivation. But such an idea is worse than useless, 
because it discourages the beginner. According to the "Cyclopedia of American Horticulture," 
there are nearly twenty-five thousand species of plants cultivated in America. But what 
is the use of laying emphasis on a mere cyclopedic fact of such a character ? There 
is another idea which is inuch more important, viz., the great diversity of human needs and 
purposes which are comprised under the one word "floriculture." Here are two 
hundred lists of plants, and each list represents a distinct idea. There are at least two 
hundred distinct purposes for which people cultivate plants. The differentiation of these 
purposes must have its educational value. It is to be hoped that the following lists will 
help the amateur gardener to clear up his ideas and determine what he really wants. 
The author has a wide acquaintance with plants, and there are very few in the following 
lists with which he is not personally acquainted. A good many duplicates will 
be found — e.g., the pansy appears in several lists, but this is part of the original plan, for 
the best plants are relatively few in number, and it is better to suggest common and easily 
grown ones for the various purposes to which they are adapted than rare and costly 
plants of doubtful suitability. 

SPECIAL NOTICE 
Dates of blooming arc based upon the I'icinity of AViy \'ork. The names have been stand- 
ardised with the "Cyclopedia of American Horticulture." 



APPENDIX I 



ANNUALS (See Chapter !) 

Ten of the most popular annuals: 

Balsam. Impaticns Bahantina. 

China Aster, CatlistepJius Iwrtensis. 

Marigold, Tageies spp. 

Mignonette, Reseda spp. 

Morning-glory, Ipoimra purpurea. 

Nasturtium, Tropccoluin spp. 

Pansy, Viola tricolor. 

Petunia, spp. 

Poppy, Papaver spp. 

Verbena, Verbena spp. 
Ten annuals tiscful as cut flowers: 

Alyssiim. Sweet. Alyss.nm mariihnum. 

Aster, Callistcpliiis I'lortensis. 

Baby's Breath, Gypsopliila clegans. 

Coreopsis spp. 

Cosmos, Cosmos spp. 

Daisy, Swan River, Brachycoine ibcridifolia 

Nasturtium, Tropceolum spp. 

Pansy, Viola tricolor. 

Pea, Sweet, Lathyrns odoratus. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Matthiola incana. var. 
annua. 
Six fragrant-flowered annuals: 

Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssiiin inaritiiiiiiiu. 

Bartonia, Mentzelia Lindlcyi. 

Mignonette, Reseda spp. 

Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoratus. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Alatthiola incana. var. 
annua. 

Sultan, Sweet, Centaurca inoschata. 
Six everlasting-flowered annuals: 

Caliinanclic cccrutca. 

Gom plircna globosa. 

Hclichrysnni bracteatnni. 

Helipteruni rosctiin. 

Polypteris Hookcriana. 

Xeranthemuni annnnni. 
Six annuals that bloom for eight weeks oi 
longer: 

Agcratum. Ageratnin conyzoides 

Clarkia, Clarkia elegans. 

Morning-glory. Ipomcca purpurea. 

Nasturtium, Tropceolum spp. 

Petunia, Petunia spp. 

Zinnia, Zinnia spp. 
Six climbin.g annuals: 

Balloon- vine. Cardiospermum Halicacabum 

Bean, Hyacinth, Dolichos Lahlab. 

Cypress-vine, Ipomcca Quamoclit. 

Hop, Japanese, Humiilus Japonicus, var 
variegatus. 



Climbing Annuals — Continued 

Moonflower, Ipomcca Bona-nox. 

Morning-glory, Ipomwa purpurea. 
Six annuals with striking foliage: 

Castor-bean, Ricinus communis. 

Corn, Japanese variegated, Zea Mays, var 
Japonicus. 

Hemp. Giant, Cannabis sativa, var. giganlca. 

Hop. Japanese, Humulus Japonicus, var. 
varicgalus. 

Nicotiana alata. 

Prince's-father, Amaranetus hypochon- 
driacus. 
Six annuals that re-sow themselves — likely 
to pro\-c troublesome: 

Hop, Japanese, Humulus Japonicus, var. 
variegatus. 

Moming-glor}', I poma-a purpurea. 

Nicotiana alata. 

Poppy, Papaver spp. 

Rose Moss, Portulacca grandiflora. 

Shell-flower, Moluccella Iccvis. 
Six annuals for successional sowing: 

Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssum mariiimum 

Baby's Breath, Gypsopliila clegans. 

Clarkia, Clarkia elegans. 

Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoratus. 

Poppy, California, Eschschohia Californica. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Matthiola incana, var. 
annua. 
Si.x annuals for sunny places: 

Amaranths, Amarantus spp. 

Balsam, Impaticns Balsamina. 

Bean, Hyacinth, Dolichos Lablab. 

Gaillardia, Gaillardia spp. 

Nasturtium, Tropceolum spp. 

Rose Moss, Portulacca grandiflora. 
'ix annuals for shady places: 

Godetia, CEnothera spp. 

Musk-plant, Mimulus nwscliatus. 

Nemophila, Nemophila spp. 

Pansy, V'iola tricolor. 

Tarweed, Madia elegans. 

Torenia, Torenia spp. 
Six annuals for rocky places: 

Baby's Breath. Gypsopliila elegans. 

Candytuft. Iberis spp. 

Catchfly. Silcne spp. 

Clarkia. Clarkia elegans. 

Nasturtium, Tropceolum spp. 

Rose Moss. Portulacca grandiflora. 
Six annuals for sandy soil: 

Clarkia, Clarkia elegans. 



.1^^ 



336 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Annuals for sandy soil — ContiiuicJ 
Cobiia scandcus. 
Godetia, CEiiollwra spp. 
Nasturtium, Tropccolum spp. 
Portulacca, Poriidacca grandiflora. 
Zinnia, Zinnia elegans. 
Six annuals for heavy soil: 

Alyssum. Sweet, Alyssuni maritimitm. 
Chrysanthemum, Chrysanthemum coronaria, 

etc. 
Godetia, Qinothcra spp. 
Pea, Sweet, Lathyrns odoratUj. 
Petunia, Petunia spp. 
Zinnia, Zinnia elegans. 
Six annuals for very cold climates: 
Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssum inaritimum. 
Clarkia elegans. 
Marigold, Tagetes spp. 
Pansy, Viola tricolor. 
Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoralus. 
Stock, Ten Weeks, Alaiihiola incana, var. 
annua. 
Six annuals for warm climates: 
Amaranths, Amarantus spp. 
Balsam, Impatiens Balsamina. 
Moonflower, I pom a: a Bona-nox. 
Morning-glory, Ipomwa purpurea. 
Nasturtium., Tropeeoluin spp. 
Rose Moss, Portulacca grandiflora. 
Six annuals that resist drought: 
Bean, Hj'acinth, Dolichos Lahlab. 
Ice-plant, Mesembryanthcmnm crystallinuiu. 
Nasturtivim, Tropwoliim spp. 
Petunia, Petunia spp. 
Rose Moss, Portulacca grandiflora. 
Zinnia, Zinnia elegans. 
Six annuals that blossom after a frost: 
Alyssum, Sweet. Alyssum maritimum. 
Candytuft, Iberis spp. 
Clarkia elegans. 
Marigold, Tagetes spp. 
Phlox Druniniondii. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Maithiola incana. var. 
annua. 
Six annuals which may be sown in autumn 
for earl)' spring bloom: 
Candytuft, Iberis spp. 
Clarkia elegans. 
Gilia, CEnothera spp. 
Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoralus. 
Phlox Drummondii. 

Poppy, California, Eschschohia Californica. 
Six annuals that blossom in May: 

Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssum maritimum. 
Baby's Breath. Gypsophila elegans. 
Godetia, Oenothera spp. 
Marigold, Tagetes spp. 
Phlox Drummondii. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Matthiota incana, var. 
annua. 
Six annuals that bloom in June: 
Amaranths, Amarantus spp. 



Annuals that bloom in June — Continuea 

Candytuft, Iberis spp. 

Clarkia elegans. 

Morning-glory, Ipomcea purpurea. 

Nasturtium, Tropceolum spp. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Matthiola incana, var. 
annua. 
Six annuals that bloom in July: 

Bean, Hyacinth, Dolichos Lablab. 

Chrysanthemum coronarium, etc. 

Cobcea scandens. 

Gaillardia, Gaillardia spp. 

Moonflower, I ponicea Bona-nox. 

Nasturtium, Tropceolum spp. 
Six annuals that bloom in August: 

Bean, Castor, Ricinus communis. 

Chrysanthemum coronarium, etc. 

Hemp, Giant, Cannabis sativa, var. gigantea. 

Hop, Japanese, Humulus Japonicus, var. 
varicgatns. 

Moonflower, Ipomcea Bona-nox. 

Maurandia Barclaiana, etc. 
Six annuals that bloom in September: 

Ageratum, Ageratum conyzoides. 

Candytuft, Iberis spp. 

Cosmos, Cosmos spp. 

Musk-plant, Mimulus moschatus. 

Verbena, Verbena spp. 

Zinnia, Zinnia elegans. 
Six annuals that blossom in October: 

Alyssuin, Sweet, Alyssum maritimum. 

Candytuft, Iberis spp. 

Clarkia, Clarkia elegans. 

Godetia, CEnothera spp. 

Marigold, Tagetes spp. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Alatthiola incana, var. 
annua. 
Six white-flowered annuals: 

Baby's Breath, Gypsophila elegans. 

Candytuft, Iberis spp. 

Daisy. Swan River, Brachycome iberidifolia. 

Helipterum corymbiflorum. 

Moonflower, Ipomcea Bona-nox. 

Nicotiana alata. 
Six lilac, magenta, or purple-flowered annuals: 

Bean, Hyacinth, Dolichos Lablab. 

Cobcca scandens. 

Mourning-bride, Scabiosa spp. 

Nemophila, Nenwphila spp. 

Verbena, Verbena spp. 

Xeranthemum annuum. 
Six blue-flowered annuals: 

Ageratum, .Ageratum conyzoides. 

Corn-flower. Centaurea Cyanus. 

Daisy, Swan River, Brachycome iberidifolia. 

Lobelia Erinus. 

Nemophila, Nemophila spp. 

Salpiglossis sinuata. 
Six yellow-flowered annuals: 

Calceolaria spp. 
Helipterum Sanfordii. 

Marigold, Tagetes spp. 



Appendix 



337 



Yellow-flowered annuals — Continued 

Nasturtium, Tropsolum spp. 

Poppy, California, Esclischolzia Calijornica. 

Zinnia, spp. 
Six pink-flowered annuals: 

Amaranth, Globe, Goniphrena globosa. 

Balsam, Impatiens Balsamina. 

Clarkia elcgans. 

Cosmos spp. 

Gilia, CEnothcra spp. 

Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoratns. 
Six red-flowered annuals: 

Cockscomb, Celosia spp. 

Gaillardia spp. 

Helichrysum bracteatum. 

Linum grandiflorum, var. rubruni. 

Poppy, Papavcr spp. 

Rose Moss, Portulacca grandiflora. 
Six annuals with variegated flowers: 

Butterfly-flower, Schizantlms spp. 

Godetia, (lEnotJicra spp. 

Helipterum Manglesii. 

Monkey-flower, Mimuliis spp. 

Petunia spp. 

Phlox Drnmmondii. 
Six annuals less than one foot high: 

Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssmn niaritimum. 

Ice-plant, Mesembryanthemum cryslallinum. 

Lobelia Erinus. 

Nemophila spp. 

Pansy, Viola tricolor. 

Rose Moss, Portulacca grandiflora. 
Six annuals between one and two feet high: 

Baby's Breath, Gypsophila elegans. 

Clarkia elcgans. 

Marigold, Tagetes spp. 

Mignonette, Reseda spp. 

Mimuliis spp. 

Petunia spp. 
Six annuals between two and three feet high: 

Amaranths, Amaranius spp. 

Bartonia, Mentzelia Lindteyi. 

Cotton, Gossypiutn herbaceum. 

Polypteris Hookeriana. 

Poppy, Papaver spp. 

Mourning-bride, Scabiosa spp. 
Six annuals more than three feet high: 

Bean, Castor, Ricinus communis. 

Com, Japanese variegated, Zea Mays, 
var. Japoniciis. 

Cosmos spp. 

Hemp, Giant. Cannabis saliva, vav gigantca. 

Molnccella spinosa. 

Nicotiana alata. 

PERENNIALS (See Chapter II) 

Ten of the most popular perennials: 
Anemone spp. 
Columbine, Aqiiilegia spp. 
Coneflower, Rudbeckia spp. 
Hollvhock. Althcea rosea. 



Most popular perennials — Continued 

Iris spp. 

Larkspur, Delphinium formosum. 

Peony, Pwonia spp. 

Phlox spp. 

Poppy, Papaver spp. 

Sunflower, Hcliantnus spp. 
Ten perennials useful for cut flowers: 

Anemone Japonica. 

Columbine, Aquilegia spp. 

Daisy, Giant, Pyrctlirum uliginosum. 

Gaillardia aristata. 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 

Larkspur, Delphinium formosum. 

Pinks, Dianthiis spp. 

Rocket, Sweet, Hesperis maironalis. 

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum spp. 

Sunflower, Helianthus debilis. 
Six perennials with fragrant flowers: 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus 

Goldentuft, Alyssum, saxatile, var. com- 
pactum. 

Ground Nut, Apios iuberosa. 

Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 

Rocket Sweet, Hesperis niatronalis. 

Scotch Pink, Dianthiis plumarius. 
Six perennials with everlasting flowers: 

.\mniobium alatum. 

Briza maxima (grass). 

Bromus brizceformis (grass). 

Cat's Ear, Antennaria dioica. 

Helichrysum grandiflorum. 

Statice incana. 
Six perennials that will bloom the first season: 

Butterfly Pea, Centrosema Virginiana. 

Chrysanthemum morifolium. 

Gaillardia aristata. 

Larkspur, Delphinium formosum. 

Pink. Dianthiis spp. 

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majus. 
Some perennials that may be cut after 
flowering for a second crop of bloom: 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia triloba. 

Larkspiu", Delphinium formosum. 

Goldentuft, Alyssum saxatile. 
Six climbing perennials: 

Butterfly Pea, Centrosema Virginiana. 

Clematis Viorna, var. coccinea. 

Dolichos Japonicus, Pueraria Thun- 
bergiana. 

Ground Nut, Apios tubcrosa. 

Hop, Common, Hiinuiliis Lupulus. 

Perennial Pea, Lathyrus latifoliiis. 

Six perennials that blossom longer than 

eight weeks : 
Coral Bells, Hcuchera sanguinea. 
Marguerite, Golden, Anthemis tinctoria. 
Perennial Pea, Lathyrus latifolius. 
Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 
Popp\--mallow, CallirhoS involucrata, var. 

lineariloba 
Sunflower, Helianthus multiflorus. 



338 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Six perennials to remain undisturbed for 
years : 
Gas-plant, Dictainnus albits. 
Ins spp. 

Peony, Pcconia spp. 
Phlox spp. 

Perennial Pea. Lathyrns latijolius. 
Yucca fitamentosa, etc. 

Six perennials to be renewed every year or 
two: 

Columbine, Aquilegia ccerulea. 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia triloba. 

Daisy, English, Bellis perennis. 

Hollyhock, Althea rosea. 

Poppy, Iceland, Pa paver nudicaule. 

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majiis. 
Six perennials likely to prove troublesome 
by spreading: 

Balm, Fragrant, Monarda didyiii'^ 

Candytuft, Iberis sempcrvirens. 

Goldenrod, Solidago rigida. 

Ground Nut, Apios tuberosa. 

Poppy, Plume, Bocconia cordata. 

Sacaline, Pol ygoniim Sachalinense. 
Six perennials for sunny places: 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia hirta. 

Gaillardia aristata. 

Golden Marguerite, Anthemis tinctoria. 

Poppy-mallow, Callirhoe involucrata, var. 
lineariloba. 

Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 

Sunflower, Hclianthus spp. 
Six perennials for shady places: 

.4 iicmone Pcnnsylvanica. 

Bluebells, Mertensia puUnonarioides. 

Bugleweed, Ajuga rcptens. 

Helleborus niger. 

Phlox divaricata. 

Shooting Star, Dodecatheon Meadia. 
Six perennials for co'ii climates: 

Goldentiift, Alyssum saxatile. 

Lychnis alpina. 

Moss Pink. Phlox siibulata. 

Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 

Rocket, Sweet, Hespcris matronalis. 

Saxifrage, Saxifraga spp. 
Six perennials for warm climates: 

Ctirysanthcnium spp. 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia hirta. 

Dianthus spp. 

Funkia spp. 

Gunnera manicata. 

Iris Japonica. 
Six drought-resisting perennials: 

Baby's Breath, Gypsophila pamculata. 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia hirta. 

Inula grandiflora. 

Sedu'rn spp. 

Sunflower, Helianthus spp. 

Yucca filamentosa, etc. 
Six perennials that bloom after a frost: 
Chrysanthemum spp. 



Perennials that bloom after a frost — Continued 
Goldentuft, Alyssum saxatile. 
Gaillardia aristata. 
Goldenrod, Solidago spp. 
Perennial Pea, Lathyrus latijolius. 
Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 
Si.x perennials for rocky places: 

Anemone blanda. 

Bluebells, Mertensia puUnonarioides. 

Columbine, Aquilegia spp. 

Moss-pink, Phlox subulala. 

Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 

Sun Rose, Helianthemum Chamcecistus. 
S'..x perennials for sandy soil: 

Blazing-star, Liatris spp. 

Helichrysuni arenariitm. 

Poppy-mallow, Callirhoe involucrata, var. 
lineariloba. 

Sacaline, Polygonum Sachalinense. 

Sunflower, Hclianthus spp. 

Sun-rose, Helianthemum canadense. 
Six perennials for heavy soil: 

Columbine, .Aquilegia spp. 

Forget-me-not, Myosotis palustris. 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 

Larkspur, Delphinium formo.sum. 

Peony, Pceonia spp. 

Phlox spp. 
Six perennials for moist or low ground: 

Balm, Fragrant, Monarda didyma. 

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 

Funkia spp. 

Iris laevigata. 

Joe-Pye-weed, Eupatorium pnrpnrcum 

Ranuncultis aquaiicus. 
Six perennials that re-sow themselves: 

Beard-tongue, Pentstcmon spp. 

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 

Clematis Viorna, var. coccinea. 

Forget-me-not, Myosotis palustris. 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 

Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majus. 
Six perennials with striking foliage: 

Adam's Needle. Yucca filamentosa. 

.Anemone Japonica. 

Eulalia, Miscanthus Sinensis, var. zebrinus. 

Funkia spp. 

Giant Reed, Arundo Donax. 

Poppy, Plume, Bocconia cordata. 
Six perennials less than one foot high: 

Candytuft. Iberis sempervircns. 

Daisy. English, Bellis perennis. 

Forget-ine-not, Myosotis palustris. 

Moss Pink, Phlox subulata 

Rock-cress, .Aubrietia deltoidea. 

Shooting-star, Dodecatheon I\Ieadia. 
Six perennials from one to two feet high: 

.Achillea ptarmica. 

Balm, Fragrant. Monarda didyma. 

Columbine. .Aquilegia Canadensis. 

Funkia subcordata. 

Lychnis Viscaria. 

Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 



Appendix 



339 



Six p.^rennials from two to three feet high; 
Bleeding-heart, Diccnira spp. 
Canterbury-bell, Campanula Medium. 
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 
Flame Flower, Kniphofia aloides. 
Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 
Peony, Pceonia spp. 

Six perennials from three to four feet high; 
Adam's Needle, Yucca filamentosa. 
Daisy, Giant, Pyrethrum uliginosum. 
Larkspur, Delphinium jormosmn. 
Poppy, Oriental. Papaver orientate. 
Sunflower, Helianthus mulliflorus. 
Tree Peony, Pcsonia Moutan. 

Six perennials from four to six feet high; 
Coneflower, Rudbcckia ma.xima. 
Hollyhock, Althca rosea. 
Japanese Eulalia, Miscanthus, var. varie- 

gatiis. 
Joe-Pye-weed, Eupatorium purpureum 
Ravenna Grass, Erianlhus Ravenna:. 
Zebra Grass, Miscanthus Sinensis, var. 

zebrinus. 

Six perennials taller than six feet: 
Bugbane, Ciniicifuga racemosa. 
Crambe cordifolia. 

Grass, Giant Rye. Elynius condensatus. 
Reed, Giant, .Arundo Do>ia.\\ 
Sacaline, Polyganuni Saclialincnsc. 
Sunflower, Helianthus orgyalis. 

Six white-flowered perennials; 
Achillea ptarmica. 
Adam's Needle, Yucca filamentosa. 
Astilbe Japonica. 
Daisy, Bellis perennis. 
Day Lily, Funkia spp. 
Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 

Six lilac, magenta and purple-flowered per- 
ennials: 

Beard-tongue, Pentstemon spp. 

Blazing-star, Liatris clcgans. 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 

Pink. Fringed, Dianthus siipcrbus. 

Rock-cress, Aubrictia deltoidea. 

Shooting-star, Dodecaihcon Meadia. 
Si.x blue-flowered perennials: 

Anemone blanda. 

Clematis Davidiana. 

Columbine, Rocky Mountain, .Aquilegia 
ccrrulea. 

Forget-me-not, Myosotis paluslris. 

Ins IcBvigata. 

Larkspur, Delphinium formosum. 
Six yellow-flowered perennials: 

Columbine, Aquilegia chrysantha. 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia spp. 

Gaillardia aristata. 

Goldentuft. Alyssum saxatile, var. 
compactiim. 

Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 

Sunflower, Helianthus spp. 



Six pink-flowered perennials: 
Bleeding-heart, Dicentra spp. 
Hollyhock, Althea rosea. 
Lychnis Viscaria, var. splendens 
Moss-pink, Phlox subulata. 
Peony, Pceonia spp. 
Pink, Dianthus spp. 

Six red-flowered perennials: 
.4 nemone Japonica. 
Balm, Fragrant, Monarda didyma. 
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 
Clematis Viorna, var. coccinca. 
Coral Bells, Heuchera sanguinea. 
Peony, Pceonia spp. 

Perennials with variegated flowers: Many 
cultivated varieties of such perennials as 
Lychnis Viscaria, Phlox paniculata, 
Dianthus, etc. 

Si-x perennials that bloom in April or earlier: 
.Anemone blanda. 

Bloodroot, Sanguinea Canadensis. 
Bluebells, Mertensia pulmonarioides. 
Candytuft, Iberis sempcrvircns. 
Daisy, English, Bellis perennis. 
Shooting-star, Dodecatheon Meadia. 

Six perennials that bloom in May: 

Ajuga re plans. 

Alpine Lamp Plant, Lychnis aipina. 

Forget-me-not, Myosotis palustris. 

Moss Pink, Phlox subulata. 

Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 

Tree Peony, Pceonia Moutan. 
Six perennials that bloom in June: 

Achillea ptarmica. 

Bleeding-heart, Dicentra spp. 

Columbine, .Aquilegia glandulosa. 

Leopard's Bane, Doronicum plantagineum 
var. e.x-celsum. 

Peony, Pceonia officinalis. 

Rock-cress, Aubrietia deltoidea. 
Six perennials that bloom in July: 

Adam's Needle, Yucca filamentosa. 

Blazing-star, Liatris elegans. 

Canterbury-bell, Campanula Medium. 

Clematis Viorna, var. coccinea. 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 

Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 
Six perennials that bloom in August: 

Balm, Fragrant, Monarda didyma. 

Butterfly Pea, Centrosema Virgin iana. 

Ground Nut, Apios iuberosa. 

Hollyhock, Althea rosea. 

Lychnis Viscaria. 

Sunflower, Helianthus niultiflorus. 
Six perennials that bloom in September: 

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 

Clematis Viorna, var. coccinea. 

Coneflower, Rudbeckia maxima. 

Daisv, Giant, Pyrethrum uliginosum. 

Funkia lancifolia. 

Perennial Pea, Lathyrus latifolius. 



340 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Six perennials that bloom in October or later: 
Cnrysanthemuin spp. 
GailLardia aristata. 
Goldenrod, Solidago rigida. 
Goldentuft, Alyssum saxatile. 
Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 
Poppy-mallow, Callirho'e involncrata. 

SHRUBS (See Chapter III) 

Ten of the most popular shrubs: 
Barberry, Berberis vulgaris. 
Currant, Golden, Ribcs aiireum. 
Deutzia gracilis. 

Hydrangea paniculata gratidiflora. 
Lilac, Syringa vulgaris. 
Rhododendron Catawbiense. 
Snowball, Viburnum Opulus. 
Spirasa spp. 
Syringa or Mock-orange, Philadelphus 

coronariiis. 
Weigela, Diemilla Japonica. 
Ten shrubs with fragrant flowers: 
Alder, White, Clethra alnijolia. 
Allspice, Carolina, Calycanihns floridns. 
Amorpha, Fragrant, Amorpha jruiicosa, 

var. fragrans. 
Currant, Golden, Ribes aureuiu. 
Daphne Mezereuni. 
Elder, Sambucus Canadensis. 
Lilac, Syringa vulgaris. 
Mock-orange or Syringa, Philadelphus 

coronariiis. 
Oleaster, Eleagnus argentea. 
Sheepberry, Viburnum Lentago. 
Ten shrubs whose individual flowers are 

large and showy: 
Azalea Calendulacea. 
Azalea rhombica. 

Carolina Allspice, Calycanihns floridns. 
Magnolia Soulangiana. 
Magnolia stcllata. 
Rhododendron Catawbiense. 
Kerria, White, Rhodotypos kerrioides. 
Rosa riigosa. 

Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus Syriacus. 
Stuartia pentagyna. 
The shrubs which are completely covered 

with small but numerous flowers: 
Buckeye, Dwarf, .Esculiis parviflora. 
Buttonbush, Ccphalanthus occidenialis. 
Daphne Mezereum. 
Exochorda, Exorchorda grandiflora. 
Fringe-tree, Chionanthus Virginica. 
Judas-tree, Cercis Canadensis. 
Quince, Japanese. Cydonia Japonica. 
Smoke- tree, Rhus Cotiniis. 
Spicebxish, Lindera Benzoin. 
Thorn, Cratcegiis Crus-galli. 
Six shrubs that blossom for eight or more 

weeks : 
Cinquefoil, Shrubby, Potentilla jruticosa. 
Kerria, Kerria Japonica. 



Shrubs that blossom for eight or more weeks 
— Continued 
Pepperbush, Sweet, Clethra alnijolia. 
Red Root, Ceanothus Aniericaniis. 
St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolifictwi 
Staggerbush, Pieris Mariana. 

Six shrubs useful for cut flowers: 

Almond, Double Flowering, Primus Ja- 
ponica. 
Currant, Golden, Ribes aureuni. 
Deutzia gracilis. 
Lilac, Syringa vulgaris. 
Snowball, Viburnum Opulus. 
Spircea spp. 

Six shrubs attractive in fruit: 

Barberry, Thxmberg's, Berberis Thunbergii. 
Burning-bush, Euonynius atropurpureus. 
Currant, Indian, Symphoricarpus vulgaris. 
Kerria, White, Rhodotypos kerrioides 
Snowberry, Symphoricarpus racenwsus. 
Strawberry-bush, Euonynius alatus. 

Six shrubs attractive in foliage: 

Allspice, Carolina, Calycanthus floridns. 
Golden-bell, Forsythia suspensa. 
Hydrangea, Oak-leaved, Hydrangea querci- 

jolia. 
Oleaster, ElcEagnus argentea. 
Raspberry, Flowering, Rubus odoratiis. 
Swallow Thorn, Hippophae rhamnoides. 

Six deciduous shrubs attractive during 
winter: 
Barberry, Berberis Thunbergii. 
Bramble, Japanese, Rubus cratcegifolius. 
Kerria, Kerria Japonica. 
Kerria, White, Rhodotypos kerrioides. 
Swallow Thorn, Hippophae rhamnoides. 
Winterberry, Hex verticellata. 

Six evergreen shrubs: 

Juniper, Juniperus communis. 
Laurel, Mountain, Kalmia latifolia. 
Mahonia, Berberis Aquifolium. 
Pieris floribunda. 
Pine, Dwarf, Pinus pumila. 
Rhododoidron Catawbiense. 

Six shrubs attractive because of autumn 
colors with splendid foliage: 
Barberry, Thunberg's, Berberis Thunbergii. 
Burning-bush, Euonynius atropurpureus. 
Rose, ]a.pa.nese, Kerria Japonica. 
Strawberry-bush, Euonynius alatus. 
Sumac, Dwarf, Rhus copallina. 
Willow, Virginia, Itea Virginica. 

Shrubs with variously colored foliage: 

Numerous horticultural varieties of many 
species, e. g.: 

Purple-leaved Plum, Filbert and Barberry. 

Golden-leaved Elderberry, Syringa and 
Hop-tree. 

Variegated-leaved Althea, Weigela, Dog- 
wood. 



Appendix 



341 



Shrubs to be protected from the winter sun: 

Certain evergreens with broad leaves, such 
as andromeda, mahonia, and some rho- 
dodendrons. Planting on a northern 
exposure or in the shade of evergreens 
or even very branchy trees is generally 
effective. 
Four shrubs with coloured bark: 

Bailey's Osier, Cornus Baileyi. 

Bramble, Japanese, Rubus cratccgijolius. 

Kerria, Kcrria Japonica. 

Strawbeny-bush, Euonymus Americanus. 
Four shrubs that resist drought: 

Cherry, Sand, Primus Bessyi. 

St. John's Wort, Hypericum Kalmianum. 

Swallow Thorn, Hippophae rhamnoidcs. 

Tamarisk, Tamarix Chinensis. 
Four shrubs likely to become troublesome 
by suckering, etc.: 

Cinquefoil. Shrubby, Potentilla fruiicosa. 

Ozier, Red-twigged, Cornus stolonifera. 

Raspberry, Flowering, Rubus odoratus. 

Swallow Thorn. Hippophae rliamnoides. 
Four shrubs for warm climates: 

Allspice, Carolina, Calycautlius fioridus. 

Camellia, American, Stuartia pentagyna. 

Oleaster, Elceagiiiis argentea. 

Weigela, Dien'illa spp. 
Four shrubs for cold climates: 

Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis. 

Daphne M czerenm . 

St. John's Wort. Hypericum Kalmianum. 

Sheepbcrry, Viburnum Lentago. 
Four shrtibs suitable for sunny places: 

Allspice, Carolina, Calycanthus fioridus. 

Indigo, Bastard, Amorpha fruiicosa. 

Oleaster, Elaragnus argentea. 

Spiraea, Blue, Caryopteris Mastacanthus. 
Four shrubs suitable for shadv places: 

Andromeda floribunda. 

Mahonia, Berbcris Aquifolium. 

Mountain Laurel, Kalmia latifolia. 

St. John's Wort, Hypericum aureum. 
Four shrubs suitable for heavy soil: 

Cinquefoil. Shrubby. Potentilla fruticosa. 

Lilac, Syringa vulgaris. 

Rose of Sharon, Hibiscus Syriacus. 

Thorn, Cratcegus Crus-galli. 
Four shrubs suitable for light soil: 

Bearberry, Red, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi. 

Cherry, Sand, Primus pumila. 

St. Andrew's Cross, Ascyrum hypericoides. 

St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolificum. 
Four shrubs suitable for rocky places : 

Barberry, Creeping, Berbcris repens. 

Bearberry, Red, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi. 

Crowberry, Empetrum nigrum. 

Sweet Fern, Comptonia asplenifolia. 
Four shrubs suitable for moist soil: 

Alder, White, Clethra alnifolia. 

Holly, Mountain, Nemopanthus fascicularis. 



Shrubs suitable for moist soil— Continued 
Spicebush, Benzoin odorifcrum. 
Willow, Virginian, Ilea Virginica. 

Four shrubs suitable for the seashore: 

Bearberr)-, Red, Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi. 

Cherr)-, Sand, Prunus pumila. 

Swallow Thorn, Hippophae rhamnoidcs . 

Tamarisk, Tamarix Chinensis. 
Four shrubs that bloom in April or earlier: 

Daphne Mezereum. 

Goldenbell, Forsyihia suspensa. 

Juneberry, Anielanchier Canadensis. 

Quince, Japanese, Cydonia Japonica. 
Four shrubs that bloom in May : 

Barberry, Berbcris vulgaris. 

Kerria, White, Rhodotypos kerrioides. 

Lilac, Syringa vulgaris. 

Silverbell, Habenaria tetraptcra. 
Foxir shrubs that bloom in June: 

Amorpha, Fragrant, Amorpha fruticosa.var. 
fragrans. 

Corchorus, Kerria Japonica. 

Deutsia gracilis. 

Oleaster, Elceagnus argentea. 
Four shrubs that bloom in July: 

Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis. 

Pepperbush, Sweet, Clethra alnifolia. 

St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolificum. 

Spiriea Douglasii. 

Four shrubs that bloom in August-; 

Alder, Sweet, Clethra alnifolia. 

H ydrangea paniculata grandiflora. 

Spirsea, Blue, Caryopteris Masticanthus. 

Spirwa Bidlata. 
Four shrubs that bloom in September or later: 

Gordonia pubescens (not fully hardv). 

Witch-hazel, Hamamelis Virginian'a. 

Spiraea, Blue, Caryopteris Mastacanthus. 

Spircea conspicua. 
Four shrubs less than two feet high: 

Barberry, Creeping, Berberis repens. 

Bunchberry, Cornus Canadensis. 

Daphne Cneorum. 

St. Andrew's Cross, Ascyrum hypericoides. 
Four shrubs betw-een two and five feet high: 

Barberry, Thunberg's, Berberis Thungergii. 

Redroot, Ceanothus Americanus. 

St. John's Wort, Hypericum prolificum. 

Spiraea, Blue, Caryopteris Mastacanthus. 
Four shrubs between five and eight feet high: 

Barberry, Common, Berberis vulgaris. 

Goldenbell, Forsythia suspensa. 

Quince, Japanese, Cydonia Japonica. 

Rose, Japanese, Kerria Japonica. 
Four shrubs between eight and twelve feet 
high: 

Buttonbush, Cephalanthus occidentalis. 

Oleaster, El<sagnus argentea. 

Silverbell, Halesiu tetraptera. 

Smoke-tree, Rhus Cotinus. 



342 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



i our shrubs between twelve and twenty feet 
high: 
Amorpha, Fragrant, Amorpha friiiicosa 

var. fragrans. 
Burning-bush, Euonymiis alro pur parens. 
Swallowthorn, Hippopha'c rlianinoides. 

Tamarisk, Tamarix Chinensis. 
Four shrubs with white flowers: 

Deutzia gracilis. 

Exochorda, Exochorda grandiftora. 

Pepperbush, Clethra alnijotia. 

Silverbell, Halesia tetraptera. 
Four shrubs with purple flowers: 

Daphne Mezereiim. 

Indigo, False, Amorpha jriiticosa. 

Flowering Raspberry, Rtibus odoraius. 

Smoke- tree, Rhus Cotiniis. 
Two shrubs with blue flowers: 

Amorpha herbacea. 

Callicarpa Americana. 
Four shrubs with yellow flowers: 

Barberry, Common. Berberis vulgaris. 

Currant, Golden, Ribes aureiim. 

Goldenbell, Forsytliia snspensa. 

Rose, Japanese, Kerria Japonica. 
Four shrubs with red flowers: 

Currant, Red-flowered, Ribcs sangiiineum. 

Diervilla, spp. 

Quince, Japanese, Cydonia Japonica. 

Spiraea Douglasii. 
Ten of the most popular hedge plants : 

Arbor-vita2, American, Thuya occidentalis. 

Hemlock, Tsuga Canadensis. 

Holly, Ilex crenata, var. microphylla. 

Honeysuckle, Tartarian, Lonicera Tatarica. 

Locust, Honey, Gleditschia triacanthos. 

Osage Orange, Madura aurantiaca. 

Privet, California, Ligustrum ovaliflorum. 

Quince, Japanese, Cydonia Japonica. 

Spruce, Norway, Picea excelsa. 

Thorn, Cockspur, Cratmgus Crus-galli. 
Four evergreen i edge plants: 

Arbor-vitrs. American. Thuya occidentalis. 

Hemlock, Tsuga Canadensis. 

Holly, Ilex crenata, var, microphylla. 

Spruce, Norway, Picea excelsa. 
Four flowering hedge plants: 

Barberry, Thunberg's, Berberis Thunbergii. 

Deutzia gracilis. 

Quince, Japanese, Cydonia Japonica. 

Spircea prunifolia. 
Four deciduous hedge plants: 

Buckthorn, Rhamniis cathartica. 

Honeysuckle, Tartarian, Lonicera Tatarica. 

Lilac, Syringa vulgaris. 

Thorn, Cockspur, Cratcegus Crus-galli. 

TREES (See Chapter IV) 

Ten of the most popular trees: 
B.isswood. Cilia Americana. 
Buttonwood. Platanus occidentalis. 



Most popular trees — Continued 
Chestnut, Castanca Americana. 
Elm, American, Ulmus Americana. 
Horse-chestnut, .-Esculus Hippocastanum. 
Locust, Robinia Pseudacacia. 
Locust, Honey, Gleditschia triacanthos. 
Maple, Sugar, Acer sacharum. 
Pine, White, Pinus strobus. 
Spruce, Norway, Picea excelsa. 
Six trees with ornamental foliage: 

Angelica- tree, Chinese, Aralia Chinensis. 
Catalpa speciosa. 

Coffee-tree, Kentucky, Gymnocladus Cana- 
densis. 
Cucumber-tree, Large-leaved, Magnolia 

macrophylla. 
Locust, Honey, Gleditschia triacanthos. 
Papaw, Asimina triloba. 
Six trees with fragrant flowers : 

Linden, American. Tilia Americana. 
Locust, Black, Robinia Pseudacacia. 
Magnolia, Yulan. 
Magnolia, Hypoleuca. 
Pterostyrax hispida. 
Yellow- wood, Cladrastis tinctoria. 
Six trees with large individual flowers: 
Dogwood, Flowering, Cornus Florida. 
Gordonia pubescens (not fully hardy). 
Magnolia, Hypoleuca. 
Magnolia, Yulan. 

Papaw, American, Asimina triloba. 
Tulip-tree, Liriodendron Tulipifera. 
Six trees covered with small but numerous 
flowers: 
Catalpa speciosa. 
Goldenchain, Laburnum vulgare. 
Laurel, Great, Rhododendron maximum. 
Lilac, Japanese, Syringa Japonica. 
Maple, Red, Acer rubrum. 
Yellow-wood, Cladrastis tinctoria. 
Six trees with attractive autumn foliage: 
Maple, Sugar, Acer sacharum. 
Oak, White, Qucrcus alba. 
Pepperidge, Nyssa sylvatica. 
Sassafras, Sassafras officinale. 
Sweet-gum, Liquidambar styracifiua. 
Tulip-tree, Liriodendron Tulipifera. 
Four evergreen trees: 

Holly, American. Ilex opaca. 
Laurel, Giant, Rhododendron maximum. 
Pine, White, Pinus strobus. 
Spruce, Norway, Picea excelsa. 
Four deciduous trees, attractive during 
winter: 
Birch, Paper, Betula papyri f era. 
Pagoda-tree, Japanese, Sophora Japonica. 
Sumac, Staghom, Rhus typhina. 
Willow, Yellow, Salix Vitellina. 
Four trees with showy fruits: 

Cucumber-tree, Large-leaved, Magnolia 

macrophylla- 
HoUy, American, Ilex opaca. 



Appendix 



343 



Trees with showy fruits — Continued 

Mountain Ash, American, Sorbtis Americana. 
Sumac, Staghom, Rhus typliina. 

Six trees suitable for city planting: 
Ash, American, Fraxinus Americana. 
Buttonwood , Platanus occidentalis. 
Locust, Honey, Gleditschia triacanthos. 
Maidenhair-tree, Ginkgo biloba. 
Pagoda-tree, Japanese, Sophora Japonica. 
Tree of Heaven, Ailanthtis glandnlosa 
(pistillate) . 

Four trees suitable for seaside planting: 
Juniper, Jiiniperiis Virginica. 
Sassafras. Sassafras officinalis. 
Spruce, White, Picea alba. 
Tree of Heaven, Ailanthtis glandnlosa 
(pistillate) . 

Four weeping trees and trees with coloured 
foliage: 
Horticultural varieties of numerous species, 
e. g.. Maple, Birch, Beech, Poplar, Oak, 
Willow, Elm, etc. 

Four trees that bloom in April or earlier: 
Maple, Red, Acer rubrum. 
Shadbush. Aniclanchier Canadensis. 
Judas-tree, Ccrcis Canadensis. 
Magnolia Yulan. 

Four trees that bloom in May: 

Dogwood. Flowering, Cornns florida. 
Golden-chain, Laburnum vulgare. 
Alagnolia Soulangeana. 
Tulip-tree, Liriodendron Tulipifera. 

Four trees that bloom in June: 
Catalpa speciosa. 

Locust, Black, Robinia Pseudacacia. 
Magnolia hypoleuca. 
Pterostyrax hispid a 

Four trees that bloom in July: 

Chestnut, American, Castanca Americana. 
Laurel, Great, Rhododendron maximum. 
Lilac, Japanese, Syringa Japonica. 
Rhus semialata. 

Four trees that bloom in August: 

Angelica- tree, Chinese, Aralia Chinensis. 

Sorrelwood, Oxydendrum arboreum. 

Tamarisk, Tamarix Gallica. 

Varnish-tree, Kcclreuteria paniculata. 
Four trees that bloom in September: 

Angelica-tree, Chinese, Aralia Chinensis. 

Gordonia pubescens (not fully hardv) . 

Pagoda-tree, Japanese, Sophora Japonica. 

Rhus semialata. 



VINES (See Chapter V) 

Ten of the most popular vines: 
Actinidia arguia. 

Boston Ivy, Ampelopsis tricuspidata. 
Clematis spp. 



Most popular vines — Continued 
Cobwa scandens. 

Dutchman's Pipe. Aristolochia macrophylla. 
Honeysuckle, Lonicera spp. 
Ivy, English, Hedera Hehx. 
Pea, Perennial, Lathyrus latifolius. 
Trumpet-creeper, Tecotna radicans. 
Wistaria Chinensis. 

Six vines with showy flowers: 
Clematis spp. 
Cobcea scandens. 
Honeysuckle, Lonicera spp. 
Moonflower, Ipomcra Bona-nox. 
Pea, Perennial, Lathyrus latifolius. 
Trumpet-creeper, Tecoma radicans. 

Six vines with attractive foliage : 
Actinidia arguta. 
Akebia quinata. 

Boston Ivy, Ampelopsis tricuspidata. 
Dutchman's Pipe, Aristolochia macrophylla. 
Hop, Japanese, Humulus Japonicus, var. 

variegaius. 
Silk Vine, Periploca Grceca. 

Six annvtal vines: 

Balloon-vine, Cardiospermuyn Halicacabiim. 
Bean, Scarlet Runner, Phascolns mnlti- 

floriis. 
Canary-bird Flower, Tropccolum pcrcgriniim. 
Ipomcca versicolor. 
Maurandia Barclaiana. 
Thunbergia alata. 

Six herbaceous perennial vines: 

Cinnamon-vine, Dioscorea divaricata. 
Clematis, Scarlet, Clematis Viorna, var. 

coccinea. 
Ground Nut, Apios tuberosa. 
Hop, Common, Humulus Lupulus. 
Pea, Butterfly, Cenlrosema Virginiana. 
Pea, Perennial, Lathyrus latifolius. 

Six vines with fragrant flowers: 
Actinidia polygama. 
Akebia quinata. 

Cinnamon-vine, Dioscorea divaricata. 
Ground Nut, Apios tuberosa. 
Honeysuckle, Hall's, Lonicera Halliana. 
Silk- vine, Periploca Grccca. 

Six vines that bloom for more than four 
weeks: 

Clematis Viorna, var. coccinea. 

Cobcea scandens. 

Honeysuckle, Hall's, Lonicera Halliana. 

Morning-glory, Lpotncca purpurea. 

Pea, Perennial, Lathyrus latifolius. 

Trumpet creeper, Tecoma radicans. 
Six woody perennial vines: 

Akebia quinata. 

Bitter-sweet, Celastrus scandens. 

Matrimony Vine, Lycimn Chinense. 

Silk Vine. Periploca Grccca. 

Trumpet-creeper. Tecoma radicans. 

Wistaria Chinensis. 



344 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



fERNS (See Chapter VI) 

Six of the most popular hardy ferns: 

Christmas Fern, Polystichum acrostichoides. 

Eagle Fern, Pleris aquilina. 

Maidenhair, Adiantiim pedatum. 

Ostrich Fern, Matteticcia Struthiopteris. 

Polypody, Polypodiiim viilgare. 

Royal Fern, Osmunda regalis. 
Four hardy ferns suitable for damp places: 

Marsh Fern, Dryopteris Thelypieris. 

Royal Fern, Osmunda regalis. 

Sensitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis. 

Wood Fern, Dryopteris cristata. 
Four hardy ferns that will stand sunlight: 

Eagle Fern, Pteris aquilina. 

New York Fern, Dryopteris Noveboracense. 

Royal Fern, Osmunda regalis. 

Sensitive Fern, Onoclea sensibilis. 
Fovir hardy ferns that need shade: 

Chain Fern, Woodwardia angustifolia. 

Lady Fern, Felix-fcemina. 

Maidenhair, all spp. 

Oak Fern, Phegapteris Dryopteris. 
Four hardy ferns that succeed in partial 
shade: 

Cinnamon Fern, Onoclea cinnamomea. 

Ebony Spleenwort, Asplenium platyneuron. 

Purple-stemmed Cliff Brake, Pelleea atropur- 
purea. 

Royal Fern, Osmunda regalis. 
Four ferns suitable for dry places: 

Brittle Fern, Cysto pteris fragilis. 

Chain Fern, Woodwardia Virginica. 

Polypody, Poly podium vulgare. 

Purple-stemmed CUff Brake, Pcllira atro pur- 
purea. 
Four evergreen ferns: 

Ebony Spleenwort, Asplenium ebeneum. 

Grape Fern, Cut-leaved, Botrychium dis- 
sectum. 

Hairy-lip Fern, Cheilanthes vestilia. 

Polypody, Polypodium vulgare. 

BULBS (See Chapter VII) 

Ten of the most popular hardy bulbs: 

Crocus spp. 

Daffodil, Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus. 

Gladiolus spp. 

Hyacinth, Hyacinthus spp. 

Jonquil, Narcissus Jonquilla. 

Lily, Lilium spp. 

Narcissus, Poet's, Narcissus poeticus. 

Tiger Flower, Tigridia spp. 

Tulip, Tulipa spp. 

Zephyr Flower, Zephyranihes spp. 
Six bulbs for April or earlier bloom: 

Crocus spp. 

Crown-Imperial, Fritillaria Imperialis. 

Glory of the Snow, Chionodoxa LucilicB. 

Hyacinth, Grape, Muscari nioschatum. 



Bulbs for April — Continued 

Snowdrop, Galanthus nivalis. 

Snowflake, Spring, Leucojum vernum 
Six hardy bulbs for May bloom: 

Daffodil. Narcissus Pseudo-narcissus. 

Hyacinth, Hyacinthus spp. 

Jonqtiil, Narcissus Jonquilla. 

Puschkinia scilloides. 

Summer Snowflake, Leucojum cestivuin. 

Tulip, Tulipa spp. 
Six hardy bulbs that bloom in June: 

Anemone narcissiflora. 

Anemone, Poppy-Flowered, Anemone coro~ 
naria. 

Anemone Virginiana. 

Harebell, Sctlla festalis. 

Iris, Spanish, Iris Xiphium. 

Lily, Cuban, Scilla Peruviana. 
Six bulbs that bloom in July: 

Blazing-star, Tritonia crocosmccflora. 

Homeria collina. 

Hyacinth, Star, Scilla auiumnalis. 

Lycoris sanguinea. 

Tiger Flower, Tigridia buccifera. 

Zephyr Flower, Zephyranihes carinata. 
Six bulbs that bloom in August: 

Blazing-star, Tritonia crocata. 

Gladiolus spp. 

Hyacinth, Giant Summer, Galtonia candi- 
cans. 

Squill, Hyacinth, Scilla Hyacinthioides. 

Tiger Flower, Tigridia Pavonia. 

Watsonia Meriana. 
Six bulbs that bloom in September: 

Hyacinth, Starry, Scilla autumnalis. 

Lily, Guernsey, Nerine sarniensis. 

Lycoris aurea. 

Saffron, Meadow, Colchicum autumnalc. 

Snowflake, Autiimn, Leucojum aittitmnale. 

Sternbergia lutea. 
Six of the most popular plants with tubers, 
rhizomes, etc.: 

Begonia, tuberous. 

Canna spp. 

Dahlia spp. 

Elephant's Ear, Colocasia antiquorum, var. 
esculentum. 

Lily-of- the- valley, Convallaria inajalis. 

Tuberose, Polianthes iuberosa. 



AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS 
(See Chapters VIII and IX) 

Ten of the most popular aquatics (excluding 
water-lilies) : 
Arrowhead, Sagitiaria spp. 
Arum, Water, Calla spp. 
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 
Flag, Blue, Iris spp. 

Floating-heart, Limnanthemum lacunosum. 
Lotus, American, Nelumbo spp. 
Pickerel- weed, Pontederia spp. 



Appendix 



34S 



Most popular aquatics — Continued 
Swamp-pmk, Helonias buUata. 
Victoria spp. 
Water-lily, Nymphcsa spp. 

Four aquatic plants for bogs and gardens: 
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 
Flag, Blue, Iris versicolor. 
Pitcher Plant, California, Darlingtonia 

Californica. 
Swamp-pink, Helonias bullata. 

Four aquatics for ponds: 

Floating-heart, Limnanthemum lacunosuni. 
Lotus, American, Nelumbo iutea. 
Pondweed, Cape, Aponogeton distachyum. 
Water-lily, Nyinphcea odorata, etc. 

Four aquatics that bloom in May or earlier: 
Buck-bean, Menyanthes trijoliata. 
Goldenclub, Orontiiim aquaticiim. 
Marsh Marigold, Caltha paliistris. 
Yellow Flag, Iris Pseudacoriis. 

Four aquatics that bloom in June: 
Arrowhead, Sagittaria latijolia. 
Arum, Water, Calla palustris. 
Flag, Blue, Irts versicolor. 
Water-lily, Sweet Scented, Nymphcea 
odorata. 

Four aquatics that bloom in July: 
Bur-rccd, Sparganium raiiwsuiii. 
Floating-heart, Limnanthemum lacunosuni. 
Nundo, Ligusticum actwifolium. 
Pickerel- weed, Pontederia cordata. 

Four aquatics that bloom in August: 
Arrowhead, Sagittaria latijolia. 
Hemlock, Water, Cicuta macnlata. 
Rice, Indian Water, Zigania miliacea. 
Sundew, Drosera roiundifolia. 

Four aquatics that bloom in September or 

later: 
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 
Pondweed, Cape, Aponogeton distachyum. 
Sundew, Drosera filiformis. 
Water-lily, Sweet Scented, Nymphcea 

odorata. 

Four aquatics less than one foot above the 
pond surface: 

Arum, Water, Calla palustris. 

Floating-heart, Limnanthemum lacunosum. 

Pitcher Plant, California, Darlingtonia 
Californica. 

Pondweed, Cape, Aponogeton distachyum. 
Four aquatics from one to three feet high: 

Flag, Blue, Iris versicolor. 

Pickerel-weed, Pontederia cordata. 

Pink, Swamp, Helonias bullata. 

Turtlehead, Chelone glabra. 
Four aquatics more than three feet high: 

Aster, Purple Stem, Aster puniceus. 

Cat-tail, Broad-leafed, Typha latijolia. 

Nundo, Ligusticum actceijolium. 

Rice, Indian Water, Zigania miliacea. 



Four aquatics likely to spread unduly: 
Arrowhead, Sagittaria spp. 
Cat-tail, Typha spp. 
Golden-club, Oronttiim spp. 
Floating-heart, Limnanthemum lacunosum. 



ALPINE PLANTS AND ROCK GARDENS 
(See Chapter X) 

Ten of the most popular rock plants: 

Baby's Breath, Gypsophila repens. 

Bluebells, Campanula rotundijolia. 

Columbine, Common, Aquilegia Canadensis. 

Daphne Cneorum. 

Foxglove, Digitalis purpurea. 

Gas-plant, Dictamnus albus. 

Golden-tuft, Alyssum sa.xatile. 

Moss-pink, Phlox subulata. 

Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 

Saxijraga crassijolia . 
Four rock plants, annuals: 

Clarkia elegans. 

Daisy, Swan River, Brachycome iberidijolia. 

Gitia micrantha. 

Linaria alpina. 
Four rock plants, herbaceotis perennials: 

Harebell, Carpathian, Campanula carpaticc. 

Lamp Flower, Lychnis Alpina. 

Poppy, Alpine, Papaver Alpinum. 

Rock-cress, Aubrictia delioidca. 
Four shrubby rock plants: 

Barberry, Creeping, Berberis repens. 

Crowberry, Empetruni nigrum. 

Daphne Cneorum. 

Laurel, Mountain, Kalmia latijolia. 
Four rock plants that bloom in April oi 
earlier: 

Anemone blanda. 

Bluebells, Mertensia pulmonarioides. 

Daphne Cneorum. 

Whitlow-grass, Draba Alpina. 
Four rock plants that bloom in May: 

Rock-cress, Arabis albida. 

Moss-pink, Phlox subulata. 

Alpine Anemone, Anemone Alpina. 

Stellaria graminea. 
Four rock plants that bloom in June: 

Bunchberry, Cornus Canadensis. 

Columbine, Alpine, Aquilegia Alpina. 

Easter Bell, Stellaria Holostea. 

Rock-cress, Aubrietia deltoidea. 
Four rock plants that bloom in July: 

Blazing-star, Liatris spicata. 

Catchfiy, German, Lichnis Viscaria. 

Lobelia syphilitica. 

Stonecrop, Sedum acre. 
Four rock plants that bloom in August: 

Anemone faponica. 

Poppv, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 

Sedum ternatiim. 

Spraguea umbellata. 



346 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Four rock plants that bloom in September: 
Alder, White, Cleihra alnifolia. 
Anemone Japonica. 
Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 
Sedum, Showy, Sedum speciabUe. 

Four rock plants that bloom in October or 
later: 
Goldentuft, Alyssum saxatile. 
Poppy, Iceland, Papaver nudicaule. 
Poppy-mallow, Callirhoe involucrata 
Sedum, Showy, Sedum spectabile. 



WINDOW-GARDEN PLANTS 
(See Chapter XI) 

Ten of the most popular window-garden plants : 
Abaiilon spp. 
Begonia spp. 

Calla, Richardia Africana. 
Cyclamen Persicum. 
Fuchsia spp. 

Geranium, Pelargonium spp. 
Heliotrope, Heliotropium spp. 
Oxalis spp. 

Primrose, Chinese, Primula Sinensis. 
Rubber Plant, Ficus elastica. 

Ten window plants that may be trans- 
planted from the garden: 
Agcratum spp. 
AbuHlon spp. 
Alyssum spp. 
Begonia spp. 
Candytuft, Iberis spp. 
Coleus spp. 
Fuchsia spp. 

Geranium, Pelargonium spp. 
Heliotrope, Heliotropium spp. 
Lobelia Erinus. 

Ten window plants that will stand extremes of 
neglect and coddling: 
Agave Americana. 
Begonia spp. (shrubby). 
Calla, Richardia Africana. 
Chinese Primrose, Primula Sinensis. 
Cocos Weddelliana. 
Cyclamen Latijolium. 
Geranium, Pelargonium spp. 
Grevillea robusta. 
Livistona Chinensis. 
Rubber Plant, Ftcus elastica. 

Ten vines for window gardens: 
Asparagus plumosus. 
Asparagus Sprengeri. 
Ground Ivy. Nepeta Glechoma. 
Honeybell, Mahernia verticillata. 
Kenil worth Ivy, Linaria Cynibalaria. 
Moneywort, Lysimachia nummularia. 
Periwinkle, Vinca major. 
Smilax, Asparagus medcoloidcs. 
Wandering Jew, Zebrina pendula. 
White Cup, Nierembergia rivularis. 



Ten bulbs for window gardens: 
Begonia, tuberous. 
Crocus spp. 
Cyclame>i Latijolium. 
Freesia spp. 

Hyacinth, Hyacinthus spp. 
Iris, Spanish, Iris Xiphium. 
Narcissus, Chinese, Narcissus Tazetta var. 
Narcissus, Paperwhite, Narcissus Tazetta 

var. 
Oxalis spp. 
Tulip, Tulipa spp. 

Ten window plants for hanging baskets: 
Artillery-plant, Pilea serpyllijolia. 
Alyssum spp. 
Centaurea spp. 
Ceraslium tomentosum. 
Draccena terminalis. 
Lobelia Erinus. 
Maurandia Barclaiana. 
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Tropcrolum spp. 
Periwinkle, Vinca major. 
Wandering Jew, Zebrina pendula 



GREENHOUSE PLANTS (See Chapter XII) 

Ten flowering greenhouse plants: 

Azalea Jndica. 

Bouvardia spp. 

Cereus grandijiorus. 

Erica spp. 

Hibiscus. Chinese, Hibiscus Rosa-Sincnsis. 

Hydrangea hortensis. 

Ipomcea Horsjallia. 

Olive, Fragrant, Osmanihus (Olea) jragrans. 

Piqueria (Stevia) trinerva. 

Siephanotis floribunda. 
Ten plants suitable for coldframcs: 

Anemone spp. 

Daisv, Bellis perennis. 

"Dutch Bulbs" 

Forget-me-not, Myosotis patustri 

Mignonette, Reseda spp. 

Pansy, Viola tricolor. 

Pea, Sweet, Lathyrus odoratus. 

Polyanthus, Primula elaiior. 

Stocks, AJatthiola incana var. annua. 

Violet, \'iola odorata. 
Six tender shrubs to be stored over winter 
in pits or cellars: 

Azaleas, for May bloom. 

Genista, Cytisus Canariensis. 

Poinsettia, Euphorbia pulcherima. 

Star Jasmine, Trachelospermum jasmi- 
noides. 
Ten plants that may be started in a hotbed 
for early spring flowers: 

Ageratum, Ageratum conyzoides. 

Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssum mariiimiitn. 

California Poppy, Eschscholzia Calijornica. 

Candytuft, Iberis spp. 

Clarkia elegans. 



Appendix 



347 



Plants started in a hotbed — Continued 
Godctia, GLuothcra spp. 
Marigold, Tagctfs sp}). 
Nasturtium, Dwarf, Tropwolum spp. 
Nemophila spp. 

Stock, Ten Weeks, Matlhiola incana, var. 
annua. 

Ten bulbs for the greenhouse : 
Agapanthus spp. 
Amaryllis spp. 
Crinum spp. 
Dioscorea spp. 
Easter Lily, Bermuda, Lilium longifloruin, 

var. eximinm. 
Gloxinia spp. 
Ixia spp. 
Nerine spp. 
Richardia spp. 
Tuberose, Polianthes tuberosa. 

Ten foliage plants for the greenhouse: 
Araucaria cxcclsa. 
Aspidistra Inrida, var. variegata. 
Croton {Codcciiim) spp. 
DraccBita marginata. 
Dieffenbachia spp. 

Elephant's Ear, Colocasia antiqiiormn . 
Jacobina magnifica. 
Pandanns ittilis. 
Phwnix dactylifera. 
Rubber Plant, Ficus elastica. 

Ten vines for the greenhouse: 
Allamanda Hendersoni. 
Boiigainvillea glabra var. Sanderiana. 
Cissus discolor. 
Clerodcndron Thompsons. 
Hoya carnosa. 
Lapageria rosea. 
Passiflora racemosa. 
Plumbago capensis. 
Sotanum jasminoides. 
Thunbergia taurijolia. 



PLANTS FOR FORMAL GARDENING 
(See Chapter XV) 

Ten bedding plants for subtropical effects: 
Acalypha marginata. 
Arundo Donax. 
Canna spp. 

Castor-bean, Ricinus communis. 
Croton (Codiceum) spp. 
Elephant's Ear, Colocasia antiquorum. 
Grevillea robusta. 

Miscantlius Sinensis, var. zebrinus. 
Pampas Grass, Cortaderia argentea. 
Pandanus utilis. 

Ten shrubs and trees, etc., grown in tubs for 
porch decoration: 
Bay, Laurus nobilis. 
Century-plant, Agave Americana. 
Hydrangea hortensis, var. Otaska. 



Shrubs and trees for porch decoration — Con- 
tinued 
Livistonia Sinensis. 
Oleander, Neriiim oleander. 
I'andanns utilis. 
Panda)iHS W'itchii. 
Phcenix spp. 
Privet, Ligustrum spp. 
Rhapis flabelliformis. 

Ten plants for roof-gardens, etc.: 
Areca spp. 
Aspidistra. 
Begonia rex. 
Caladiuin spp. 
Cocos Weddelliana. 
Draccena spp. 
Kentia spp. 
Pandanus spp. 
Sanseveria Zeylanica. 
Vinca spp. 

Ten plants for vases: 
Achyranthes spp. 
Centaurea Cineraria. 
Coleus spp. 
Cordyline indivisa. 
Geranium, Pelargonium spp. 
Helichrysum petiotatiim . 
Lobelia Erinus. 
Nasturtium, Tropcrolum spp. 
Periwinkle, Vinca spp. 
Senecio jnikanioides. 

Bedding plants for carpet bedding: 
Red foilage: 
Acalypha tricolor. 
Iresine Lindeni. 
.'\licrnaniticra amasna speciabilis. 
Altenianthcra versicolor. 

Yellow foliage: 
Iresine aiirea reticulata. 
Alternanthera aurea nana. 
Cnleus, golden. 
Pyrethrum parthcmjolinm aureum. 

Whitish foliage: 
Centaurea gymnocarpa. 
Cineraria maritima. 
Echeveria secunda glauca. 
Geranium, Pelargonium spp. 

Height less than one foot: 
Alternanthera paronychioides. 
Cineraria maritima. 
Echeveria metallica. 
Oxalis tropceloides. 

Height from one to two feet: 
Acalypha marginata. 
Centaurea. 

Coleus Verschaffeltii. 
Pyrethrum parthenijolium aureum. 

Blue flowers: 
Ageratum conyzoides. 
Heliotrope, Heliotropium spp. 



348 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Bedding plants — Continued 

White flowers: 
Agcratum conyzoides. 
Alyssum, Sweet, Alyssum maritimum. 
Phlox Drunimondii. 
Verbena spp. 

Red flowers; 
Begonia Vernon. 
Cuphea tricolor. 
Phlox Drummondii. 
Salvia splendens. 



Perennials from Japan — Continued 

Petasites Japonica, var. gigantea. 

Sedum Siebaldii 

Thcrmopsis fabacca. 
Six hardy bulbs from Japan: 

Black Lily. Fritillaria Camschatcensis. 

Liltuni speciosum. 

Lily, Tiger, Lilium tigrinum. 

Lycoris sanguinea. 

Lycoris squamigera. 

Narcissus Taeetta. 



PLANTS FROM JAPAN 
(See Chapter XVI) 

Comparatively few people can afford a 
"Japanese garden," but no one need deprive 
himself of a "Japanese comer" or "Japanese 
border" in which the most interesting plants 
of Japan may be grown by themselves 
according to American floricultural methods. 
No equal area in the world furnishes so large 
a list of desirable ornamental plants as Japan. 
Ten of the flowers most popular in Japan: 

Apricot, Japanese, Pruniis Mume. 

Cherry, Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus. 

Chrysanthemum spp. 

Iris, Japanese, Iris hcvigata. 

Lily. Japanese. Lilium auratum. 

Maple (autumn leaves considered as 
"flowers"). 

Morning-glory, Ipomcea spp. 

Peony, PcBonia spp. 

Plum, Japanese. Prunus triflora. 

Quince, Japanese, Cydonia Japonica. 
Six shrubs from Japan: 

Aucuba Japonica. 

Bamboo, Bambusa pygmaa 

Cherry, Flowering, Prunus Pseudo-Cerasus. 

Fatsia Japonica (Japanese rice paper 
plant). 

Ligusirum Japonicum. 

Rhodotypos Kerrioides. 
Twenty perennials from Japan suited for the 
hardy border: 

Anemone cerniia. 

Aneynone Japonica. 

Aralia cordata. 

Aquilegia Buergeriana. 

Aster Tataricus. 

Astilbe Japonica. 

Campanula punctata. 

Dicentra spectabilis. 

Epimedium macranthum. 

Eulalia, Miscanthus spp. 

Funkia spp. 

Hemerocallis spp. 

Iris Icevigata. 

Lily, Japanese, Lilium auratum. 

Ophiopogon spp. 

Peony, PcBonta officinalis. 

Peony Tree, Pceonia Moutan. 



WILD GARDENS (See Chapter XVII) 

Six choice wild flowers and ferns : 

These plants should not be taken from the 

wild even for garden purposes. If 

ordered from dealers, be sure they are 

nursery-grown, not collected. 
All native orchids, especially Lady's- 

slippers, Cypripedium spp. 
Arbutus, Trailing, Epigcea repens. 
Fringed Gentian, Gentiana crinita. 
Hartford Fern, Lygodium palmatntu. 
Laurel, Giant, Rhododendron maximum. 
W^alking Fern, Camptosorus rhizophyllus. 
Six wild flowers of easy cultivation that 

bloom in early spring: 
Bloodroot, Sanguinaria Canadensis. 
Everlasting. Antentiaria plantaginifolia. 
Hepatica triloba. 

Squirrel Com. Dicentra Canadensis. 
Spring Beauty, Claytonia Virginica. 
Wind-flower, Anemone nemorosa. 
Six robust-growing plants of the class which 

the beginner should start with: 
Artichoke, Jerusalem. Helianthus tuberosus. 
Elder, common, Sambucus Canadensis. 
Joe-Pye-weed. Eupatorium purpureum. 
Poppy, Plume, Bocconia cordata. 
Rudbeckia laciniata. 
Teasel, Fuller's, Dipsacus fullonum. 
Six wild flowers that are easily grown from 

seed: 
Bloodroot. Sanguinaria Canadensis. 
Cardinal Flower. Lobelia cardinalis. 
Columbine, Aquilegia Canadensis. 
Cone-flower, Rudbeckia hirta 
Aster, New England, Aster Xovce .Anglir. 
Sunflower, Graceful, Helianthus orgyalis. 
Six hardy exotic perennials that are easily 

raised from seed and are suitable for the 

wild .garden: 
Aquilegia atropurpurea. 
Larkspur, Delphinium formosum. 
Poppy, Iceland. Papaver nudicaule. 
Rock-cress. Arabis albida. 
Rocket, Sweet. Hesperis niatronalis. 
Snapdragon, Antirrhinum majus. 
Six wild flowers that will bloom in April or 

earlier: 
Anemone nemorosa (wind flower). 



Appendix 



349 



Wild flowers — Continued 

Everlasting, Aniciniaria plantaginijolia. 

Spring Beauty, Claytonia virginica. 

Hcpatica triloba. 

Saiigiiiiiaria Canadensis, bloodroot. 

Squirrel Com, Dicentra Canadensis. 
Six wild flowers that bloom in May: 

Everlasting, Antennaria plantagmifolia. 

Columbine, Aquilegia Canadensis 

J ack-in-the- Pulpit, AristBma triphyllum. 

Sweet-william, wild. Phlox maculata. 

Wake Robin, Trillium grandifloruin. 

Yellow Water Crowfoot, Ranunculus multi 
fidus. 
Six wild flowers that bloom in June: 

Common Elder, Sainbucus Canadensis. 

Coneflowcr, Rtidbeckia hirta. 

Fragrant Balm, Monarda didynia. 

Great Solomon's Seal Polygonatum gigan- 
teum. 

Shooting-star, Dodecatlieon Meadia. 

Tall Buttercup, Ranunculus acris. 
Six wild flowers that bloom in July: 

Adam's Needle, Yucca filamentosa. 

Bouncing Bet, Saponaria officinalis. 

Butterweed, Erigeron Canadensis. 

Cone-flower, Rudbeckia speciosa. 

Monkey-flower Miniulus tigrintis. 

Purple Cone-flower, Echi>iacea purpurea. 

Virgin's Bower, Clenialis Virginiana. 
Six wild flowers that bloom in August: 

Buttonbush, Cephalanlhus occidentalis . 



Wild flowers — Continued 

Cone-flower, Rudbeckia laciniata. 

Elecampane, Inula Helcnium. 

Fuller's Teasel, Dipsacus jullonum. 

Great Lobelia, Lobelia syphilitica. 

Joe-Pye-weed, Eupatorium purpureum. 
Six wild flowers that bloom in September: 

Blazing-star, Liatris squarrosa. 

Boneset, Eupatorium perjolialum. 

Cardinal Flower, Lobelia cardinalis. 

Cone-flower, Rudbeckia triloba. 

Poppy, Plume, Bocconia cordata. 

Trumpet-creeper, Tecoina radicans. 
Six wild flowers that bloom in October: 

Daisy Fleabane, Erigeron strigosus. 

Golden Aster, Chrysopsis graniimjolia. 

Goldcnrod (Solidago spp.). 

Star wort, Aster spp. 

Sunflower, Helianthus 

Swamp-flower, Helianthus angustifolius. 

Witch-hazel, Hamameks. 
Six attractive wild flowers, in bark, berries, 
etc., from November to spring: 

Celastrus scandens. 

Laurel, Giant Holly, Ilex. Rhododendron 
maximum. 

Red-branched Dogwood {Cornus stoloni- 
fera) . 

Spindle Tree (Euonymus). 

Thorns, Crattegus, various red-fruited spp. 

ROSES (For lists. See Chapter XVIII) 



APPENDIX II 



HOW TO GROW FLOWERS 



Brief directions for cultivating one hundred 
and fifty of the commonest and most desir- 
able flowers, mostly annuals and perennials. 



By M. G. KAINS 



APPENDIX II 



Abvtilon. See Flowering Maple. 

Aconite, Winter. Plant the bulbs about 
two inches deep in any garden soil in mid- 
autumn and do not disturb unless they are 
desired in new quarters. Then, after the 
foliage has turned yellow, dig. dry in the 
shade, clean, and store in a dry, airy room 
until planting time. 

Adam's Needle. See Yucca. 

Ager.-vtum. Sow seeds in greenhouse or 
hotbed, and when about two inches high 
transplant six inches apart; or, for later bloom, 
sow in the garden when the soil becomes 
warm. For w-inter bloom, sow in August. 
Will grow in an)^ good garden soil. 

AjUGA. See Bugleweed. 

Alyssum, Sweet. Sow seeds in green- 
house or hotbed in spring and transplant 
when two inches high to any garden soil; 
for later bloom sow in garden when soil 
becomes warm. For winter, sow in August. 
Also readily propagated by cuttings of young 
shoots placed in sandy shaded soil. Divisions 
and layers also may be made. 

Amaranth. Cultivate like Prince's- 
feather, which see. 

Anemone. Plant tuberous species in the 
hardy border in mid-autumn and the other 
species in rockeries, etc., choosing a well- 
drained, fairl)' rich sandy loam if possible. 
The plants may be divided in autumn or 
spring when the clumps have become weedy 
or too large for their quarters. For indoor 
blooming in winter the tubers may be potted 
from September to October and managed 
like hyacinths or tulips. By judicious man- 
agement a succession of bloom may be 
obtained from January until the outdoor 
clumps commence to blossom in the spring. 

Anthemis. See Marguerite, Golden. 

Antirrhinum. See Snapdragon. 

Apios. See Ground-nut. 

Aquilegia. See Columbine. 

Arabis. See Cress. Rock. 

Arundo. See Reed, Giant. 

Asparagus (.4. Sprcngcri). Plant seeds 
in ordinary potting soil at any time during 
the winter, transplant the seedlings when 
large enough to small pots, and keep them 
growing vigorously in frequently changed 
larger pots, or while small place in hanging 
baskets, along the edges of benches, etc. 
May be propagated by division. Does 
best in a moderately cool greenhouse or 
room Very easily managed. The red 



berries are beautiful, but they sap the 
strength of a plant. If the green plant is 
preferred, pick off the young berries. 

Aster, China. For earliest bloom sow 
the seed in a coldframe in autumn, and 
protect the plants until the ground can be 
worked in the spring, when they may be 
transplanted about a foot apart. These 
should blossom in late spring or early summer. 
A successional sowing may be made under 
glass in the winter, and the plants set in the 
garden when danger of frost has passed. 
Usually, however, the seed is sown in a cold- 
frame in early spring, and the plants, w-hen 
about three or four inches tall, transferred 
to the garden in late spring. These will 
blossom in late summer. Asters thrive best 
in rich soil. 

Asters. Native. Sow the seeds in a cold- 
frame in early spring, and when the plants are 
about three inches tall transplant about 
eighteen inches apart in clumps. Established 
clumps may be divided in autumn and the 
pieces reset. Greenwood cuttings root 
readily. 

Aubrietia. Sow seeds where the plants 
are to remain and thin to about six inches. 
When once established, further propagation 
may be made by means of cuttings or layers. 

Baby's Breath {Gypsophila). Sow seeds 
in early spring in a mild hotbed or green- 
house; transplant the seedlings when about 
two inches tall to small pots, and again to 
any garden soil when the weather becomes 
settled. For winter bloom, seeds may be 
sown in late summer, when cuttings or layers 
of the perennial species may also be made. 

Bachelor's-buttons (Ranunculus acris, 
var. flore plena). Sow seeds in mild hotbed 
or greenhouse in early spring; transplant 
the seedlings to small pots when about tw-o 
inches tall, and when the w-eather becomes 
settled transplant to good soil in the 
garden. After once becoming established, 
the clumps may be divided in spring. See 
also Globe-flower, Cornflower. 

Balloon-vine (Cardiospermum). After 
danger of frost has passed, sow in ordinary 
garden soil and provide a wire trellis from 
five to ten feet high, according to the quality 
of the soil. 

Balm, Fragrant (Monarda didyina). Sow 
seeds in spring and transplant to permanent 
quarters when the plants become large enough. 
A moist rich situation is most favorable. 



353 



354 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Plant in masses for distant observation, since 
the flowers are rather unkempt. Divide 
frequently, because the plants spread rapidly 
from their underground stems. 

Balsam (Impaiiens). Sow seed in mild 
hotbed in early spring or when spring opens 
in the garden. Transplant the seedlings 
when about two inches high, the early ones 
to small pots, the later ones to the beds, which 
should be good garden soil in sunny places. 
For winter, cuttings may be made in late 
summer or early autumn and the plants kept 
in rather warm quarters. Cuttings may also 
be made of the greenhouse plants for out- 
door use. 

Bartonia. See Poppy, Mexican. 

Bean, Hyacinth {Dolichos). Sow like 
morning-glory (which see) , but provide a 
taller and stronger trellis, since the twining 
vines often grow more than fifteen feet. 

Beard-tongue (Pentslemon). Sow seeds 
in a mild hotbed or greenhouse in early 
spring; transplant to flats or small pots, and 
when the weather becomes settled set in the 
garden. Some species do best in partial 
shade, but most can stand the sun. All need 
moist soil, but are not partial to quality of 
soil. Many are grown as annuals, but the 
perennial kinds may be propagated by 
division. 

Bee-balm. See Balm, Fragrant. 

Begonia (shrubby or fibrous-rooted kinds). 
Easily grown from cuttings of firm green 
wood, which, when rooted, may be planted 
in ordinary potting soil. Frequent changes 
of pots and additions of fresh soil are necessary, 
and so are light and fresh air. Cuttings taken 
in February and kept growing vigorously 
should become fine plants by the following 
winter, during the latter part of which they 
should blossom freely. 

Blazing-star (Liatris). Plant seeds in 
ordinary soil in the autumn, and in the 
spring thin or transplant the seedlings to 
stand from one to two feet apart, according 
to variety. Though doing best upon good 
soil, the plants will yield well upon soil too 
poor for most garden flowers. When once 
established, they may be increased by means 
of offsets. See also Montbretia. 

Bleeding-heart {Dicentrd) . Plant roots 
when the ground can be worked in spring, 
choosing rather good soil. The plants do 
well for years without further attention than 
an annual manuring and the removal of 
weeds. 

Bluebells (Merteusia). Sow seed as 
soon as ripe, where the plants are to remain 
in rich loamy soil sheltered from the wind, 
but exposed to the sun. Do not disturb. 
Leaves die after the plants flower. Plants 
do not propagate well by division. 

Bluebottle. See Cornflower. 

Bluet. See Cornflower. 



BoccoNiA. See Poppy, Plume. 

Bugbane (Cwiicijuga). Sow seeds in fall 
or spring where the plants are to stand, 
choosing the rear of borders and places 
where the bad smell of the plants will not be 
noticed, and where the attractive foliage and 
flowers will show oft well. Thin the plants 
to stand from two to four feet apart. Estab- 
lished plants may be divided in fall or spring. 

Bugleweed. Easily propagated by divi- 
sion or by seeds. Ajuga reptans succeeds well 
in shady places, but may spread too fast. 

BuLBOcoDiuM. Plant the bulbs in early 
autumn, choosing rather light, fairly rich 
soil and sinking the bulbs two inches deep. 
Allow the foliage to die naturally each spring 
after flowering. Every second or third 
year dig up, clean, store in a cool, airy place 
until planting time. Does well in lawns, 
since the foliage usually dies before the lawn 
needs mowing. It should bloom a week 
before the crocuses. 

Burning-bush. See Gas-plant. 

Butterflv-flower {Schizanihus) . Sow 
seeds in a mild hotbed or greenhouse in early 
spring, transplant the seedlings when about 
two inches tall to small pots, and when the 
weather becomes settled place in the garden 
in any good soil. They may also be sown 
in the open ground if desired. Allow about 
a foot between plants. For winter bloom 
sow seed in midsummer and transplant 
frequently as the plants need more pot space. 
They should flower from mid-winter till 
spring. 

Butterfly Pea. See Centrosema. 

Caladium. See Elephant's Ear. 

Calceolaria. The hybrid kinds may be 
grown from seed sown in the greenhouse in 
late winter, the seedlings being transferred 
to pots as soon as they are large enough to 
handle, and set in rather shady locations 
when the weather becomes settled. The 
plants are usually grown as greenhouse 
specimens, the seeds being sown in mid- 
summer in partial shade. For best results 
they should receive no check, but be given 
rather frequent changes of pots until near 
flowering time, when they may be allowed 
to become pot-bound. 

Calliopsis. a popular name for certain 
kinds of Coreopsis, which see. 

Callirhoe. See Poppy-mallow. 

Campion. See Lychnis. 

Candytuft, Annual {Alyssum) . Sow seeds 
in greenhouse or hotbed, and when about 
two inches high transplant from six to twelve 
inches apart in good garden soil ; for later blos- 
soms sow when the soil becomes warm; for 
winter, sow in August. Biennial and perennial 
species and varieties are also propagated as 
above, but the latter are more frequently 
reproduced by stem cuttings in the green- 
house or bv division. 



Appendix 



355 



Canna File holes in the seeds and 
soak them in warm water for about a day 
before sowing singly in pots under glass in 
late winter. When six or eight inches tall, 
transplant from two to six feet apart in any 
soil, light and rich preferred. In autumn 
dig up the clumps, dry them for a few days 
in an open shed, and store in a warm, dry, 
airy cellar. During winter divide the 
clumps of desirable seedlings or of named 
varieties, allowing at least one eye to each 
piece, and plant in pots for transplanting 
to the garden in late spring. These give 
earliest effects. The divisions or the whole 
clumps may be set direct in the garden, but 
are later in producing effects. 

Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) . 
Sow seeds under glass in late winter, and 
when a few inches tall transplant to moist 
soil, especially on the borders of marshes and 
streams. When once established they will 
continue from year to year. Strong plants 
may be divided; and vigorous, stocky shoots 
may be used for greenwood cuttings. When 
used in beds and borders, the plants should 
stand at least eighteen inches apart. 

Cardiospermum. See Balloon-vine. 

Castor-oil Bean. Start seed in hotbed 
singly in pots and transplant from four to ten 
feet apart, when about six inches tall, after 
danger of frost has past, or sow direct in 
garden when soil becomes warm. Dry, rich, 
deep soil is best. 

Catananche. Sow seeds in a mild hotbed 
or greenhouse in early spring, transplant the 
seedlings when about two inches tall, and 
again to the garden when the weather becomes 
settled. Seeds may also be planted where 
the plants are to remain. Allow about 
eighteen inches between plants. They do 
well in light soil. 

Celosia. See Cockscomb. 

Centrosema. Sow seed in early spring, 
choosing sandy soil where the plants are to 
remain. Provide a wire trellis upon which 
the vines may twine five or six feet. 

Chamomile. See Marguerite, Golden. 

Chionodoxa. See Glory of the Snow. 

Chrysanthemum (C. coronariiim) . Sow 
the seed in a hotbed in early spring, and 
when a few inches tall transplant about 
twelve inches apart in ordinary soil. A later 
sowing may be made where the plants are 
to stand in the garden, the excess being 
weeded out. Judicious pinching back tends 
to make the plants more shapely. 

CiMiciFUGA. See Bugbane. 

Clarki a . For earliest bloom where winters 
are mild sow seeds in early autumn ; for next 
early, sow in earliest spring, and for suc- 
cession sow when ground has become warm. 
When about three inches tall transplant 
about twelve inches apart in any soil. 

Clematis. Set nursery-grown plants in 



rich, light loam, provide trellis for the 
climbing kinds, give annual applications of 
manure, and mulch with litter during winter. 
Often the native species may be obtained 
in the woods. Small plants should be 
selected in such cases. Do not take them if 
thev are rare in your neighbourhood. 

Canterbury Bells. Sow seed in green- 
house or hotbed in early spring; transplant 
the seedlings as they need it and set in the 
open ground after the weather has become 
settled, allowing two feet apart in ordinarily 
good soil. They may be expected to produce 
some blossoms the first season, but are more 
prolific in the following year. They are often 
sown in the open ground, but in this case do- 
not usually blossom until the second season. 

CoBOEA scandens. Sow the seed in late 
winter and water sparingly till germination 
is complete; transplant the seedlings when 
about two inches tall to small pots and set thent 
in the open after danger of frost has passed. 
Provide a twenty-foot wire trellis. Green- 
wood cuttings in sandy soil and gentle heat 
may be taken from plants growing in the- 
greenhouse. 

Cockscomb (Celosia). Sow seed in early- 
spring in a mild hotbed or greenhouse; trans- 
plant the seedlings when about two inches 
tall to small pots or flats, and when danger 
of frost has passed set in the garden from 
six to eighteen inches apart according to 
variety. If the plants ever suffer for want 
of water, they will drop their leaves. Plant 
in light, rich, deep, moist soil. For winter 
bloom sow in late summer. 

Coleus. Take cuttings from garden-grown, 
plants before danger of frost. When they 
have struck root, which they do readily,, 
plant in good potting soil in small pots and 
shift to larger ones as the plants require 
room. They do best and have the most 
brilliant colours in bright sunlight and warm 
rooms or greenhouses. For outdoor planting 
the cuttings arc rooted in midwinter and the 
plants brought forward to three- or four-inch 
pots, froni which they are set in the open 
ground about a foot apart for the smaller 
kinds and eighteen inches for the larger. 
In a moderately rich sandy loam well-exposed 
to the sun the plants develop the most 
brilliant colours. In very rich soil they grow 
larger, but lack brilliancy. 

Colchicum. Plant bulbs three inches deep' 
in late summer or early autumn in light, deep, 
rich sandy loam and give a mulch of leaves 
or litter, which should be raked off in spring. 
The autumn species make their foliage iru 
spring and bloom without leaves in August 
and September. They should remain undis- 
turbed until the flowers and fohage sho-sv 
signs of failing. Then, after the foliage has- 
died do%\Ti, they may be dug. divided, and 
planted in new ground at the proper season. 



3S6 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



The spring-blooming kinds may be planted 
like snowdrops in lawns. Both spring and 
autumn blooming species do well in rockeries. 
Columbine (Aquilegia) . Sow seeds in 
midwinter and transplant when the seedlings 
are large enough, using small pots or flats. 
These plants, if kept growing vigorously, 
should blossom the first season. Plant in 
any soil, among rocks, or in borders exposed 
to the sun, but sheltered from wind. Further 
propagation is easily effected by division — 
the only safe way to secure plants like the 
parents if more than one species or variety 
is growing in the neighbourhood. 

CONE-FLOWER. ScC RuDBECKIA. 

CoRal Bells {Heuchera sanguined). Sow 
seeds in early spring in a hotbed or mild green- 
house, transplant the seedlings to small 
pots when about two inches tall, and again to 
ordinary garden soil, about one foot apart, 
when the weather becomes settled. Later 
sowings may be made in the open ground. 
If grown as a perennial, the clumps may be 
divided in spring when the ground becomes 
warm. Cuttings may be made for winter 
use in late summer and for summer use in 
late winter. 

Coreopsis. Sow the seed in a hotbed in 
early spring or in the open ground for later 
bloom, and, when a few inches tall, transplant 
about two feet apart in ordinary garden soil. 
The perennial varieties may be propagated 
"by greenwood cuttings taken in summer and 
set in a coldframe or by division of the clumps 
in autumn or spring. 

CoRN-FLOWER {Ccntaurea Cyanus). Sow 
seed where the plants are to remain and 
thin to about eighteen inches. Any soil will 
suit. The plants self-sow. 

Cosmos. Sow the seed in a mild hotbed 
or greenhouse in early spring; transplant the 
seedlings when large enough to handle and as 
often thereafter as they need, and set in the 
open ground when the season has become 
settled, choosing rather poor soil and fairly 
sunny situations protected from wind. On 
rich soil they grow spindling and produce 
fewer and inferior blossoms later in the 
season than those on poorer soil. Pinching 
out the leading shoots of the young plants 
helps to make them stockier and more 
prolific. 

Cotton (Gossypium) . Sow seeds in a mild 
greenhouse or hotbed in late winter or early 
spring. Transplant to small pots and perhaps 
again before the weather becomes settled, 
when the plants may be set in the garden 
about two feet apart mainly to form back- 
grounds for smaller growing plants. 

Cowslip, American. See Shooting-star. 

Cowslip, Virginia. See Bluebells. 

Crambe (C. corJifolia). Sow seeds in 
ordinary soil where the plants are to remain 
■or in a separate bed from which to be trans- 



planted. Allow three or more feet between 
plants. If desired, start in a hotbed or 
greenhouse and transplant to pots or flats 
while the plants are small. The flowers are 
rarely produced before the third year, after 
which the plants fail. During the first two 
years the foliage is ornamental. Plant 
annually for succession. 

Cress. Rock {Arabis). Sow seeds in early 
spring where the plants are to remain and 
then to about four inches. They thrive 
well in poor soil, but require plenty of sun. 
The perennial kinds are usually propagated 
by division. Cuttings root readily. See 
also Aubrietia, which is sometimes called 
Rockcress. 

Crocus. Plant bulbs in early autumn 
about three inches deep in a simny situation 
and well-drained, rather light, fairly rich 
soil. After the foliage has turned yellow, dig 
up the bulbs, dr)' them in the shade, clean 
and store them until planting time. If 
planting be delayed, the bulbs will start to 
grow. They may be allowed to remain in 
the ground two years without damage, but 
if three or more years they are likely to push 
out of the ground. 

Crocus, Autumn. See Colchicum. 

Crown Imperial. See Fritillaria. 

Cyclamen. Sow seeds in December or 
January, and, as the little plants become 
large enough to handle, transplant them to 
small pots or to flats, in which they must be 
kept growing vigorously. As they need 
more space, plant them singly in pots, using 
a light, fairly rich potting soil. When the 
weather becomes settled, transfer the pots 
to a partially shaded location out of doors, 
plunging the pots almost to their rims in a 
well-drained soil. By September the plants 
should be in five-inch or six-inch pots, in 
which they are to flower. About fifteen 
months must elapse from planting the seed 
before the flowers appear. Only vigorously 
growing plants should be kept; the slow ones 
are not worth saving. Bulbs obtained from 
seedsmen are frequently unsatisfactory 
because they have become dried. 

Cup and Saucer See Canterbury Bells. 

Cypress-vine (I pomcea Qitanioclit). Sow 
the seeds in early spring where the plants 
are to remain, choosing good garden soil 
and a rather sunny exposure. Thin the 
plants to about eight inches; provide upright 
wire or string trellis ten feet or more high 
for the plants to twine upon. 

Daffodil. Plant the bulbs three or four 
inches deep in autumn in good garden soil 
and in partial shade. Each bulb will produce 
a clump of bulbs in the course of three or 
four years, when, after the foliage has died 
down, they should be dug up, divided, and 
replanted. The clumps are often allowed 
to remain longer, but the production of 



Appendix 



357 



flowers is reduced on account of the crowd- 
ing. 

Dahlia. The tubers may be planted in 
early spring in rather rich soil, but by starting 
them in a coldframe or a spent hotbed and 
transplanting to permanent quarters after dan- 
ger of frost has passed, the blossoms may be 
obtained much earlier. Better still, by obtain- 
ing cuttings from the stems sent up by tubers 
started in the greenhouse in winter, potted 
plants may be set in the garden and brought 
into bloom several weeks in advance of those 
obtained by the first method. In autumn, 
a week after the tops have been killed by 
frost the tubers should be dug, dried, and 
stored in a cool, dry, airy, dark place until 
needed. They may be divided with a sharp 
knife, care being taken to have at least 
one bud upon the stem end of the tuber. 
The larger plants should stand three feet 
apart and have stakes, the smaller two feet or 
even less. 

Daisy, English (SfZ/tV). Sow the seeds in 
early spring, and when the plants are about 
two inches tall transplant about eight inches 
apart in rich, cool, moist soil partially shaded. 
After the plants have flowered they may be 
divided, division being indicated by the 
various crowns, each of which should have 
some roots attached to it. 

Daisy, Michaelmas. See Asters, native. 

Daisy, Swan River (Brachycomc) . Sow 
the seeds in early spring in gentle heat, and 
when about two inches tall transplant about 
six inches apart in good soil. Sowings made 
in the open ground when the soil becomes 
warm may be made for succession. 

Dame's Violet. See Rocket, Sweet. 

Day Lily. See Funkia. 

Delphinium. See Larkspur. 

DiANTHUS. Sow seeds in early spring 
under glass, transplant the seedlings when 
they are large enough to handle, using flats 
or small pots. When the weather has become 
settled, set in the garden from a foot to 
eighteen inches apart according to variety. 
The perennial kinds may be divided in spring. 
Any good garden soil suits them. 

r)icENTRA. See Bleeding-heart. 

DiCTAMNUS. See Gas-plant. 

Dodecatheon. See Shooting-star. 

DoLicHos. For D. Japonicns see Pueraria. 
For D. Lablab, see Bean, Hyacinth. 

DoRONicuM. See Leopard's Bane. 

Elecampane (Inula graiuiiflora). Sow seed 
in spring in any good soil well exposed to the 
sun, or divide clumps. 

Elephant's Ear (Colocasid). Plant the 
tubers in a mild hotbed or greenhouse in late 
winter, and when the weather has become 
settled transplant to summer quarters, allowing 
three feet or more between the larger growing 
kinds. Select damp, rich ground or keep 
the ground moist by weekly Drenchings. 



At the approach of cold weather, dig up 
the plants and store in a dry, airy frost- 
proof place. 

Elymus. Sow the seeds where the plants, 
are to remain and thin out to four feet or 
more. The clumps may be divided after 
the second year or before, if they make a 
very vigorous growth. 

EscHscHOLziA. See Poppy, California. 

Eulalia. See Miscanthus. 

Evening-Glory. Same as Moonflower,. 
which see. 

Fairy Lily. See Zephyranthes. 

Flag. See Iris. 

Flameflower {Kniphojia or Tritomd). 
Plant roots in spring in warm, well-drained 
soil protected from the wind. Allow two 
feet or more between plants. In autumn 
dig and store in a dry, airy, frost-proof cellar. 
From Washington southward the plants- 
may be left out during the winter if protected 
somewhat with leaves or litter. 

Flax, Flowering. Sow seeds where the 
plants are to remain in ordinary garden soil 
well exposed to the sun. Thin to six or 
eight inches. Plant successionally for later 
blooming. 

Flowering Maple (AbuHlon). May be 
propagated by seeds. Greenwood cuttings, 
which may be taken at any time, are more 
often used. The plants succeed tmder the 
same general treatinent as geraniums and 
fuchsias. 

Forget-me-not (Myosoiis). Plant seeds 
in spring in moist, partially shaded places, 
preferably where the plants are to remain. 
Thin the plants to stand four inches apart, 
and during the summer thin out the smaller 
ones, leaving the large ones eight inches 
or a foot apart. These will flower the 
following spring and will re-seed abundantly. 
The plants will stand even stift' clay and full 
sunlight. 

Foxglove. Most varieties can be treated 
the same way as Canterbury Bells, which 
see. The perennial sorts may be started in 
this way and after their establishment may 
be divided. They will sticceed in sunny or 
partially shaded places and seem to prefer 
light, rather rich, friable, moi^'t soil. 

Fraxinella. See Gas-i-„^nt. 

Freesia. Plant the bulbs in autumn in 
ordinary potting soil and keep in a cold place 
until desired for successional blooming, when 
they may be brought into the mild green- 
hovise. Provide ample drainage in the pots 
or flats and water sparingly until blossoming 
time. After growth starts, the plants require 
about six weeks until the blossoms appear. 
The bulbs may be dried off like other species, 
of bulbous plants, but new ones are usually 
so much more floriferous and are so cheap 
that they are generally preferred. 

Fritillaria. In early autumn plant the- 



3S8 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



bulbs four inches deep in rich, moist, but 
well-drained, sandy loam, allowing from a foot 
to eighteen inches between bulbs. The beds 
should be out of the direct rays of the sun, 
either shaded by trees or shrubs during the 
heat of the day or planted on a northern 
exposure. Since the bulbs form numerous 
offsets they should be dug every second 
or third year after the foliage has died down. 
After cleaning and dividing the clumps, store 
in a cool, airy, dry place until planting time. 

Fuchsia. Blooming plants may be grown 
from seed in about a year. Cuttings are 
more frequently used, since they are always 
obtainable and are very easy to root. The 
plants will do well in any soil and in the 
ordinary temperature of the living-room. 
Cuttings rooted in early spring should 
produce blossoming plants by Thanksgiving 
Day, and cuttings taken in September should 
bloom before spring. After blooming, the 
plants are generally thrown away, but they 
may be made to bloom again after a rest, 
during which the plants must be kept in cool 
quarters and watered sparingly. 

FuNKiA. Plant roots in deep, rich, moist 
soil in spring. The large-leaved kinds do 
best in partial shade, where the soil is very 
moist. The plants may be allowed to 
remain for years, during which time they 
generally improve. Sorne species produce 
seed freely. If seedlings are needed, the 
seed should be sown as soon as ripe. 

Gaillardia. Sow the seeds in midwinter 
under glass, and when about an inch tall 
transplant to two-inch pots and, if necessary, 
to a larger size before transplanting in the 
garden, where they should stand about 
fifteen inches apart in light, rich soil in an 
open, sunny situation. The seeds are very 
slow to germinate. 

Galanthus. Sec Snowdrop. 

Galtonia. See Hyacinth, Summer. 

Gas-plant (Dictamnus). Sow seeds as 
soon as ripe in the autumn, covering them 
an inch deep in a nursery bed, where the 
plants may remain until two years old. The 
seedlings should be thinned to six inches in 
the row and be undisturbed, since they do 
not bear transplanting well. Select for 
permanent quarters a fairly rich, rather 
heavy soil, and a situation in which the plants 
may remain undisturbed. 

Geranium. Transplant plants from the 
garden in autumn, allowing plenty of room 
in the pot, saving as much root as possible 
and cutting back the top severely. The 
firm green parts removed may be used as 
cuttings. They easily strike root and are 
of easiest management. They need only 
ordinary soil, and if kept gromng vigorously 
should bloom for months. A greater amount 
of bloom is produced by allowing the plants 
to become pot-bound after they have reached 



blooming age. Plants which have been grown 
from cuttings taken in winter, and which are 
in three or four-inch pots, may be set in the 
garden after danger of frost has passed. Allow 
nine inches for the smallest bedding varieties 
and eighteen inches for the large ones. 

Gilia. Sow the seed in the autumn where 
the plants are to remain, because they do not 
bear transplanting well, unless the operation 
is done while the plants are very small. The 
bed should be covered with a light mulch of 
leaves or straw, which must be removed in 
spring. They do best in rather light soil, and, 
according to kind, should stand from six to 
twelve inches apart. 

GiLLiFLOWER. See Stock. 

Gladiolus. Plant the corms two inches 
deep in heavy soils and four inches in light. 
Successional planting should commence with 
the smallest corms as soon as the soil can be 
worked, and end with large corms planted 
about midsummer. If confined to beds, the 
first-planted bulbs may be set twelve inches 
apart, the later-planted ones set in the 
intervals; six inches apart is close enough. 
In late autumn dig, dry, clean and store the 
corms in a cool, dark, dry, airy place. Seeds 
are often used to produce new varieties. They 
are sown thickly in spring, a few radish or 
turnip seeds being planted with them to mark 
the rows. No flowers can be expected the 
first season from seeds. Even the second 
season some corms will fail. These should be 
saved for a third year's planting, because they 
often produce superior flowers. 

Globeflower {TroUius). Sow in a mild 
hotbed or greenhouse in early spring; trans- 
plant to small pots or flats when about two 
inches tall, and when the weather becomes 
settled set in ordinary garden soil in a sunny 
place. Seed may also be planted where the 
plants are to remain. Allow about a foot 
between plants. 

Glory of the Snow (Chionodoxa) . Plant 
the bulbs three inches^ deep in any friable 
soil that will supply plenty of moisture until 
the tops have completed their growth. Light 
is also essential. Dig and divide the plants 
every third year if in beds, but if in lawns 
let them die out, which they may be expected 
to do in a few years more. When conditions 
are favourable, however, the numerous seeds 
will replenish the ground. The seeds should 
be sown in a coldframe in which they should 
germinate the following winter and produce 
little bulbs in the spring. These may then 
be planted where needed or grown another 
year in nursery beds. 

Gloxinia. For the propagation of choice 
varieties or colours, cuttings of leaves and 
stems are employed, the former preferred. 
Seeds are usually more satisfactory for ordi- 
nary purposes. They should be sown during 
midwinter, carefully watered, transplanted 



Appendix 



359 



■while small and again as they need. The 
soil used should be Hght and fibrous and 
fairly rich. If properly managed they should 
begin to blossom in early autumn and con- 
tinue for several weeks. The dying of the 
leaves indicates the approach of the resting 
period. Water should then be withheld, the 
plants being allowed to become dry without 
shrivelling. At this time the temperature 
should be kept below fifty degrees. About 
midwinter the bulbs will commence to grow 
and the most active may be planted; others 
later for succession. The old soil and dead 
roots should be removed before repotting. 

GoDETiA. Sow in early spring under glass, 
and when the seedlings are about three 
inches tall transplant about fifteen inches 
apart in rather poor soil. In rich soil the 
plants become rank and produce fewer and 
poorer flowers. They may also be started 
in a coldframe or in the open ground, but 
are later than if transplanted from the green- 
house. 

GoLDENROD {SoHdago) . Transplant choice 
specimens from the fields and fence rows. 
They respond well to good treatment. 

Go.MPHRENA. See Globeflower. 

Gr.\pe Hyacinth. See Hyacinth, Grape. 

Grevillea. See Silk Oak. 

Groundnut, Hog {A pios tubcrosa). Plant 
tubers three inches deep in light soil well 
exposed to the sun. Three or four should be 
planted together. Provide trellis upon which 
the vines may twine for eight feet. Dig and 
divide annually to prevent undtie spreading. 

GvpsoPHiLA. See Baby's Breath. 

Helianthemum. See Sun-rose. 

Helianthus. See Sunflower. 

Helichry'sum. Sow in any garden soil 
when the soil becomes warm. Allow from 
one to two feet between plants If desired, 
seeds may be started in a mild hotbed or green- 
hotise and the seedlings transplanted when 
about two inches tall, and later to the garden. 

Heliotrope. Propagate by means of 
cuttings of terminal shoots in moist sand. 
Pot the rooted cuttings in light, rich potting 
soil; provide good drainage, but never let 
the plants suffer for want of water. Since 
the plants make rapid root growth, they need 
frequent changes of pots. For use in the 
garden, set the plants out after danger of frost 
has passed, choosing a sunny place and light, 
rich soil. They should be about thirty 
inches apart. 

Helipterum. Sow seeds in a mild green- 
house or hotbed m early spring; transplant 
to small pots or flats when about two inches 
tall and set in ordinary garden soil when the 
weather becomes settled. Allow about a foot 
between plants. Seeds may also be sown 
in the garden when spring has opened. 

Hellebore. All cultivated like H. Niger. 
See Rose, Christmas. 



Hemp. Sow seeds in good soil where the 
plants are to remain and thin out the seedlings 
to stand about eighteen inches apart. Use 
only for backgroxmds, since the plants are 
tall growing. 

Hesperis. Sec Rocket, Sweet. 

Heuchera. Sec Coral Bells. 

Hollyhock (Allhcca). Plant the seed in 
January in a cool greenhouse, using ordinary 
potting soil. When the seedlings are large 
enough, pot them singly in small pots and as 
occasion may demand shift them to larger 
pots until the weather becomes settled in 
spring, when they may be planted where they 
are to remain in the garden. A light, deep, 
rich soil suits them best, but they will grow 
in poor soil. Allow three feet between 
plants. If started thus, flowers may be 
expected the first season, but if started in the 
garden they %vill not flower until the following 
season. Since they frequently fail to produce 
well the third year, successional annual 
sowings should be made. 

Hop {Humulus). Sow seeds of Japanese 
annual as soon as the ground becomes warm, 
choosing deep rich soil. Provide a trellis 
or strings twelve or more feet high. The 
perennial hop may be grown similarly from 
seed or established clumps may be divided 
in spring. 

Hose in Hose. See Canterbury Bells. 

Hyacinth. Plant bulbs in autumn, four 
or five inches deep in ordinary soils, shallower 
in heavy, deeper in light. Protect in the 
North with a light mulch of litter or leaves, 
which must be removed in spring. When 
leaves have turned yellow, dig up, dry in the 
shade, clean and store until autumn. 

Hyacinth, Grape {Muscari). Plant the 
bulbs in any moderately fertile soil during 
autumn, sinking them about two inches 
deep. They may be allowed to remain until 
they show signs of deterioration, when, after 
the tops have died down, they may be dug, 
cleaned, dried and ireplanted at the proper 
season. The foliage should always be allowed 
to die naturally, since bloom of the foUomng 
season depends upon foliage of the present. 
May be planted in lawns like snowdrops. 

Hyacinth, Star. See Aconite, Winter. 

Hyacinth, Summer {Galtonia). In spring 
plant the bulbs four or more inches deep in 
rich, moist, but well-drained soil. In the 
North dig the bulbs after the tops have died, 
or protect with a mulch of leaves or litter 
over winter. In favoured situations and 
warmer regions this latter method gives best 
results, since the plants do best when undis- 
turbed and allowed to grow in clumps for 
several years. 

Ice-plant {Mese^nbryanthemum). Sow 
seeds in a sunny place in sandy soil as soon 
as the ground becomes warm in spring. 
Thin to about six inches. For indoor use 



360 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



sow seeds in midsummer or transplant plants 
frona the garden in autumn before irost. 
The plants withstand drought well. 

Inula. See Elecampane. 

IpoMCBA. See Morning-glory; Cypress- 
vine. 

Iris. Plant the rootstocks or tubers in 
moist, even wet soil in spring or autumn, and 
keep the clumps free from weeds. As 
occasion may demand, divide the clumps. 
If in very wet places, the division may take 
place in midsummer, the clumps being 
removed to a shed and the roots covered with 
earth until autumn. Propagation may also 
be effected by means of seed, which must 
often, however, be obtained by cross fertilisa- 
tion of the flowers. 

Jonquil. Cultivate like Daffodil, which 
see. 

Kenilworth Ivy. Sow seeds in any odd, 
moist comer of the greenhouse, among taller 
growing plants, or in partially shaded places 
out of doors, and let the plants take care of 
themselves. The outdoor specimens will 
die during winter, but will resow themselves. 
They may be readily propagated by division. 

KuDzu Vine. See Pueraria. 

Larkspur {Delphinium). Plant seeds in 
late winter and keep growing vigorously in 
several shifts of pots until the weather 
becomes settled, when the plants may be set 
in good soil, well exposed to the sun. These 
should flower the first season. Annual 
kinds are so propagated. The perennial is 
started this way, but later propagation is by 
means of division of the clumps in the spring 
or by cuttings of young growth taken in 
spring, or of second growth which appears 
after flowering. After flowering, the old tops 
of some species may be cut and a second 
crop of bloom obtained in the autumn. 
Seeds may also be sown in autumn where 
the plants are to remain or for transplant- 
ing. The clumps should be divided every 
third year. 

Leopard's Bane (Doroniciim). Sow seed 
where the plants are to remain and thin the 
seedlings to stand about a foot apart. After 
once becoming established the tubers may 
be used for further propagation. 

Leucojum. See Snowflake. 

LiATRis. See Blazing-star. 

Lightning, Scarlet. See Lychnis. 

Lily. In well-drained, deeply worked, 
fairly rich garden loam, plant the bulbs from 
four to six inches deep. (L. auratum ten or 
twelve inches deep) . Mid to late autumn is 
the best time for planting most species. 
(L. candidiim and L. excelsum should be 
planted in August or September.) With the 
exception of L. candiduin, which thrives in 
full sun, lilies do best in the partial shade or 
shrubbery, trees or buildings, especially if 
the shade protects the plants during the heat 



of the day. During winter a liberal mulch 
of leaves or litter should be given. When 
the plants seem to need division they should 
be dug after growth has started in the spring 
and placed in new quarters (already prepared) 
as soon as possible. 

Lily, Chinese Sacred. Plant the bulbs 
in ordinary potting soil as soon as they can 
be obtained after importation and keep in 
cold place until needed, when thev may be 
brought into a living-room, pro\-ided they 
have formed roots. They are often grown 
among stones in water, no soil being used. 
In this case also good root de\-elopment must 
precede the development of the tops. The 
bulbs should, therefore, be kept in a dark, 
cool place, as above indicated. 

Lily, Day. See Funkia. 

Lily, Fairy. See Zephyranthes. 

Maple, Flowering. See Flowering 
Maple. 

Lily-of-the- Valley (Convatlaria) . Plant 
the pips in late autumn in a partially shaded 
good, light garden loam, where the plants may 
be allowed to spread. No further attention 
except ordinary manuring is necessary. 
Dividing and transplanting may be done in 
autumn or early spring. 

LiNUM. See Flax, Flowering. 

Lobelia (L. Erinus). Sow seeds during 
winter in the greenhouse; when about two 
inches tall transplant to flats or small pots, and 
when the ground becomes warm transplant 
from four to six inches apart in rather rich soil 
in a sunny situation. For later bloom, sow in 
early spring where the plants are to remain 
and thin out the excess. They respond to 
stimulating manures with improved flowers. 
See also Cardinal Flower. 

Lungwort, Virginia. See Bluebells. 

Lychnis. Sow seeds in any soil in early 
spring or start under glass. Set the plants 
about a foot apart. Perennial species may 
be divided. 

Lyme-grass. See Elymus. 

Maltese Cross. See Lychnis. 

Marguerite, Golden, Chamomile. Plant 
seeds in a mild hotbed or greenhouse, or in 
the open ground. Transplant while small 
to pots or permanent quarters in ordinary 
soil. Allow from eighteen to twenty-four 
inches between plants. Select sunny place. 

Marigold (Tagetes). Sow the seeds in a 
coldframe in late winter or early spring, and 
when about three inches tall transplant to 
any good garden soil when the soil becomes 
warm. The African varieties should stand 
about fifteen inches apart; the French about 
ten inches; and the dwarf varieties about six 
inches. 

Maurandia. Sow seeds in late winter or 
early spring in a moderately warm hotbed 
or greenhouse; transplant when two or three 
leaves are formed, using small pots, and set 



Appendix 



361 



in good soil when the weather has become 
settled. Provide trellis about ten feet tall. 
Cuttings readily take root in the greenhouse. 

Me.\dow Saffron. Sec Colchicum. 

Mentzelia. Sec Poppv, Mexican. 

Merte.n'sia. See Bluebells. 

Mesembryanthemum. See Iceplant. 

Mignonette (Reseda). Sow seeds in a 
mild hotbed in early spring; transplant the 
seedlings when about two inches tall to small 
pots or flats, and again to the garden when 
the ground becomes warm. Later and 
successional sowings may be made in the 
open ground. For winter blooming seeds may 
be sown in midsummer, when cuttings may 
also be taken. Any garden soil suits them. 

MiMULus. See Monkey-flower. 

MiscANTHUS (same as Eulalia). Sow seeds 
in a mild hotbed or greenhouse in early 
spring and transplant the seedlings to small 
pots when about two inches tall. When the 
weather becomes settled transplant in the open 
ground in ordinary soil. Allow five feet 
between plants. Division of the clumps is 
the usual method of propagation after the 
plants have become established. 

MoNARDA. See Balm, Fragrant. 

Monkey-flower (Mimulus). Sow in the 
garden as soon as the soil becomes warm, 
and when about two inches tall transplant 
about a foot apart in any partially shaded 
soil. Cuttings readily strike root, and the 
clumps may be divided. 

Montbretia. Plant the bulbs in the 
spring in any garden soil, rather light pre- 
ferred, sinking the corms three or four inches 
deep and eight inches apart. Plant suc- 
cessionally every ten days or two weeks. In 
autumn dig, clean, divide and store the 
corms in moist earth. Don't have them wet. 
Farther south they may be left where they 
grow with a mulch of leaves or litter as 
protection. In such cases they should be 
dug every three years. 

Moon flower (Ipomcea). File the points 
of the seeds or cut small notches in them, to 
hasten and insure germination. Sow in late 
winter in a moderately warm greenhouse or 
hotbed. When two or three leaves have 
appeared transplant the seedlings to small 
pots, and when danger of frost has passed 
set in deep, rich soil and provide a straight 
wire or string trellis twenty to thirty feet tall. 
Cuttings may be taken in early autumn for 
winter flowering. The plants are twining. 

Morning-glory (Ipomcea). Sow seeds as 
soon as the ground can be worked where the 
plants are to remain, choosing a warm, sunny 
place and ordinary soil. Provide straight 
wire trellis or strings (the plants twine) six 
or eight inches apart. In ordinary soil the 
plants should reach ten feet; in rich, much 
more. In the latter they ■will usually be 
less floriferous and later in blooming, but 



will produce greater shade. They self-sow 
readily. 

Moss-pink {Phlox subulaia). Plant divided 
plants in any soil among rocks and in borders 
where a mat of low herbage is desired. The 
plants will care for themselves with only an 
autumn dressing of litter or manure. 

Mother ok Thousands. See Kenilworth 
Ivy. 

Mourning-bride (Scabiosa). Sow seeds 
in the open ground or in a mild hotbed. 
Transplant while small to ordinary garden 
soil, the dwarf varieties about six inches 
apart and the tall ones as much as two feet. 
The perennial species may be divided, but 
some of them act like biennials and should 
be sown annually. For indoor blooming the 
seed may be sown in late summer. 

Mullein-pink. See Lychnis. 

MuscARi. See Hyacinth, Grape. 

MusK-PLANT. Cultivate like Monkey- 
PLOWER, which see. 

Myosotis. See Forget-me-not. 

Narcissus, Poet's. Cultivate like Daffo- 
dil, which see. 

Nasturtium (TropcBolum) . Sow the seed 
singly in two-inch pots in the hotbed or 
greenhouse in early spring and transplant 
to poor soil, the dwarf varieties about a foot 
apart, the tall ones two to four. The seeds 
may also be sown in the open ground when 
the soil becomes warm. Choice varieties or 
colours may be easily propagated by cuttings 
— the usual way for obtaining plants for 
winter blooming. 

Nemophila. Sow the seed in a cold- 
frame in early spring and transplant while 
the plants are very small six inches apart in 
good soil. For earliest bloom the seeds may 
be sown in early autumn where the plants 
are to remain, and protected during the 
winter with a light mulch of leaves or straw. 
Some of these late-sown plants may be potted 
and removed to the cool greenhouse for 
winter blossoming. 

Nicotian A (TV. alatd). Sow seeds in mild 
hot-bed or greenhouse in early spring or late 
winter; transplant when about two inches 
tall to small pots, and when danger of frcst 
has passed set in good garden soil, about two 
feet apart. From Was'nington southward 
the plant often self-sows, and in the South it 
lives over winter. For winter blooming sew 
seeds in late summer and give ordinary 
attention. 

Pampas Grass. Since seedlings must 
usually be two years old before they will 
flower, division of established clumps in the 
spring is preferred. The plants thrive best 
in rich, light, rather moist loam. Since the 
plants are rather tender in the North, they 
should be protected during the winter with 
a mulch of straw or leaves several inches 
thick and held in place by boards or boughs. 



362 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Pansy. For early spring flowering sow in 
the autumn, and when the plants have three 
or four leaves transplant about three inches 
apart in coldframes, which niust be protected 
from inclement weather during winter. In 
early spring the plants may be set about five 
inches apart in light, rich soil. They do best 
in partial shade, especiall)^ if flowers are 
desired during the summer, a season which 
reduces the size of the blossoms. Spring- 
sown seed rarely produces as satisfactory 
plants as autumn-sown. 

Pea, Perennial (or Everlasting). Sow 
seeds where the plants are to remain, but 
avoid placing them in borders with shrubbery, 
etc. Among rocks, in waste places, and in 
any kind of soil they will thrive. 

Pea, Sweet. For earliest bloom sow the 
seeds about four inches deep in late autumn 
where the plants are to remain, choosing a 
deep, rich, rather heavv Innm and a dry 
situation. S]iriirj, -uci . -.-ic ,ii,il sowings should 
commence with ilic .i].! inn- • ■! ihc season, the 
seeds being sown 111 trLuehcs from fovir to si.x; 
inches deep, but being covered with less than 
two inches of soil. Thin the seedlings to 
stand eight inches apart, and, as they grow, 
draw soil toward them until they are ridged 
an inch or more above the level. Provide 
trellis of poultry wire, brush or strings. For 
long season of bloom cut the flowers daily. 
Dwarf sweet peas need no trellis and may 
stand as close as twelve inches. 

Peony. Plant the crowns two inches deep 
in rich, moist garden soil, first having shaken 
off any old soil. When well established and 
well fed they should produce blossoms 
abundantly for a quarter of a century. They 
will also thrive in poorer soils. 

Pentstemon. See Beard-to.\gue. 

Petunia. Sow the seed in a hotbed or 
coldframe, and when the seedlings are a few 
inches high transplant about eighteen inches 
apart in good soil. Later sowings may be 
made in the garden. Double varieties pro- 
duce less viable seed than single ones. The 
double and some of the choice single ones 
are often propagated by cuttings. 

Phlox, Annual (P. Druiiunoiidii). For 
earliest plants, sow the seed in a hotbed or 
coldframe in early spring and transplant the 
seedlings when a few inches tall about eight 
inches apart in good garden soil. Sowings 
may also be made in spring out of doors when 
the soil has become warm, or in late autumn 
where the plants are to stand the following 
season. The first inethod is usually most 
satisfactory. 

Phlox, Perennial. Plant the nursery- 
grown plants in rich, fairly moist loamy 
soil. Divide the slowly enlarging clump 
every five years or perhaps oftener. Give 
annual dressings of stable manure, and keep 
clear of weeds, especially grasses, in the 



clumps. By pinching out the tips of the 
shoots in late spring the blossoming season 
may be changed to late summer instead of 
early summer. 

Phlox Subulata. See Moss-pink. 

Pink. See Dianthus. 

Plume Grass. See Ravenna Grass. 

Poker Plant. Sec Flame-flower. 

Polyanthus. Treat like half-hardy prim- 
roses. See Primroses. Sow the seed as 
soon as possible after its collection. A mild 
greenhouse or hotbed will suit them. The 
soil should be light, fairly rich and porous, 
and until the plants are well established 
should be partially shaded. The hardy 
kinds do well out-of-doors in partially shaded 
situations where the soil never becomes dry 
and where the air is humid. In warm and 
dry situations they fail. The choice varieties 
may be propagated by cuttings or division. 
The half-hardy kinds and those most sus- 
ceptible to dryness may be bedded out each 
spring like pansies and removed to deeper 
shade and greater moisture as soon as they 
have flowered, their place being taken by 
other plants. During winter they may be 
kept in coldframes, previously having been 
divided. 

Polypteris. Start under glass, trans- 
planting the seedlings when about two inches 
tall to small pots or flats, and when the weather 
becomes settled to the open ground in a 
rather sunny sandy place. Allow about two 
feet between plants. Later sowings may 
be made in the open ground. 

Poppy {Papavcr) . Sow the seeds in early 
spring where they are to remain, since the 
plants will not bear transplanting. Choose, 
when possible, a moderately rich sandy loam, 
and thin the plants to not less than nine 
inches for the small growing annuals and 
eighteen inches for the larger kinds. To 
lengthen the season of bloom, allow no seed 
capsules to ripen on the plants. The perennial 
species may also be propagated by division 
of the clumps and also by root cuttings taken 
in autumn and grown under glass. They 
usually require about twice as much room as 
the annuals. 

Poppy, California {Eschschohid) . Best 
results are obtained from seed of the present 
season sown in the early autumn where the 
plants are to remain, protected during the 
mnter with a light mulch of litter or leaves, 
thinned to about ten inches apart in spring. 
They may be thinned to half this distance 
in the autumn, if they are numerous or 
crowded. The seeds may also be sown in 
the open ground in early spring, bLit they are 
then rather slow and uncertain compared to 
fresher seed. 

Poppy, Mexican {IMentzelia). Sow seeds 
in early spring in a mild hotbed or greenhouse 
and transplant the seedlings to small, well- 



Appendix 



3^3 



drained pots when about two inches tall, and 
when the ground becomes warm to ordinary 
garden soil in a moist place. They generally 
do better if the seed is sown in the open 
ground where the plants are to remain. They 
need about a square foot of space each and 
should be planted in masses. 

Poppv, Plume {Bocconia cordaia). Sow 
seeds in a mild hotbed or greenhouse in late 
winter or early spring. Transplant while 
small to pots, and when the weather has 
become settled transfer to the open ground, 
setting the plants about five feet apart. Will 
thri\'e in any soil, but will produce largest 
specimens in rich. May be grown readily 
from pieces of root. 

Poppv-MALLOW. Sow sccds in early spring 
in a mild hotbed or greenhouse and transplant 
the seedlings while still small to pots or flats, 
and when the weather becomes settled plant 
in any good garden soil about a foot apart. 
Cuttings of the perennial species may be used 
for further propagation. 

PoRTULACCA. When the ground becomes 
thoroughly warm, sow the seed rather 
thickly in dry light soil in the sunniest situa- 
tions, and thin out the surplus to about five 
inches apart. Usually enough seed will be 
produced to supply the succeeding season's 
needs. The plants may be transplanted 
while in full bloom. 

Primrose, Chinese. Sow seeds in a mild 
hotbed or greenhouse in early spring, so as 
to ha\'e flowering plants by winter. Suc- 
cessional sowings may be made until early 
summer. Choose light, fibrous potting soil 
finely sifted. Prick off the seedlings as soon 
as large enough, first to flats, and when they 
have three or four lea\'es to small pots. 
Give shifts of pots as required. They should 
be in five or si.x inch pots by late autumn. 
They do best at temperatures below fifty 
degrees and with plenty of food in the form of 
liquid manure, which shottld be given only 
when the pots in which they are to blossom 
are full of roots. When in blossom they may 
be taken to the living-rooms. They do better 
thus managed than if removed earlier. 
Other "indoor" primroses may be grown 
similarly. 

Prince's-fe.\ther (Amarajitus). Sow 
seeds in poor soil well exposed to the sim as 
soon as the ground becomes warm. Thin the 
seedlings to stand eighteen or more inches 
apart. Dwarf varieties should stand closer. 
In rich soil the colours of the foliage and of 
the flower heads are less brilliant. 

Pueraria Thunbergiana. Sow seeds near 
porches, verandas, or very large trellises. 
They may be started under glass in pots and 
the seedlings transplanted when the weather 
has become settled. The perennial tuberous 
roots may be used after the plants have 
become established, or cuttings may be 



rooted. From Washington southward the 
tops may li\-e over winter. 

Puschkinia. Plant the bulbs like those 
of SciLLA and Chionodoxa. 

Ravenna Grass. Sow seeds in late winter 
or early spring in the greenhouse or mild 
hotbed. When the plants are large enough, 
transplant to small pots and make one or two 
shifts before setting in the garden when 
the weather becomes settled. Allow four 
or more feet between plants. Select a warm 
place in ordinary garden soil. After becoming 
established the plants may be propagated by 
division. 

Reed, Giant (Arundo Donax). Sow seeds 
in mild hotbed or greenhouse in early spring 
and transplant to small pots. When the 
weather becomes settled plant in ordinary 
soil eight feet apart as a background for 
smaller plants. Dwarf varieties may be set 
four feet apart. If desired, established 
clumps may be divided. 

Rock-cress. See Cress and Aubrietia. 
Rocket, Sweet {Hespcris). In early 
spring sow seeds where the plants are to 
remain or in a border for transplanting. 
Allow about eighteen inches between plants, 
which will form clumps. These may be 
divided when necessary for further propaga- 
tion. 

Rose, Christmas (Helleberus). Plant the 
rootstocks in any good soil, rich, sand}' 
loam preferred. Moisture and shade are 
favourable. The plants need no further 
attention than annual manuring, and should 
be undisturbed for years. 

Rose of Heaven. See Lychnis. 
Rose. See Chapter XVIII. 
Rose, Rock. See Sun-rose. 
Rudbeckia. Sow seeds in spring either 
in the garden or earlier under glass. Trans- 
plant as the plants become large enough, 
either to pots, nursery beds, or to permanent 
quarters. Any soil or any exposure suits 
them. After once becoming established the 
clumps may be divided in spring. 
Rye, Wild. See Elymus. 
Sacaline (Polygonum Sachalincnse) . Sow 
seed where the plants are to remain. Rather 
moist, rich soil is most favourable. Very 
likely to become a pest from the spread of its 
underground stems. 

Saffron, Meadow. See Colchicum. 
Sailor, Ragged. See Corn-flower. 
Salpiglossis. Sow seeds in late winter; 
transplant seedlings when about two inches 
tall to small pots. Keep them growing 
steadily; avoid any kind of check. Set in 
light, rich, deep, moist soil when danger of 
frost has passed. They need about eighteen 
inches space. Seed may also be sown where 
the plants are to stand and the excess thinned 
out. For winter bloom the seeds may be 
sown in midsummer or later, and the plants 



364 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



kept growing steadily in rather frequent 
shifts of pots until they approach the flowering 
stage, when they may be allowed to become 
pot-bound. 

Sage, Scarlet (Salvia splendens). Sow 
seeds in late winter in a greenhouse or hot- 
bed; transplant when an inch or two tall to 
small pots, and again if necessary before 
setting in ordinary soil eighteen inches apart, 
after danger of frost has passed. Greenwood 
cuttings may be easily rooted in a warm soil 
or in the greenhouse. 

Salvia. See Sage, Scarlet. 

ScABiosA. See Mourning-bride. 

ScHiZANTHUs. See Butterfly-flower. 

SciLLA. Plant the bulbs in mid-autumn 
in good garden soil, in beds or upon the lawn, 
and leave them to themselves. If desired 
to remove them, dig after the foliage has 
turned yellow, dry in the shade and store in 
a cool, airy room until planting time. 

Sedum. Sow seeds in mild greenhouse or 
hotbed during winter or early spring; trans- 
plant to flats when large enough, and to the 
garden when the weather becomes settled. 
From four to eight inches are the usual 
distance for planting. The soil should be 
sandy and well drained, especially if the plants 
are to remain outdoors during the winter, 
which some may. For further propagation, 
oS'sets are usually employed. They are 
taken in summer or autumn and from their 
increase during winter a supply should be 
ready by spring. They need little care. 

Shell-flower {Moliiccella). Sow seeds 
where the plants are to remain or in a mild 
hot- bed for transplanting; first to sinall pots 
and later to ordinary garden soil. Allow 
about eighteen inches between the plants. 
Select some part of the garden where the 
plants may self-sow or where the volunteer 
seedlings will not be obnoxious as weeds. 

Shooting-star (Dodecallieon). Propaga- 
tion by seeds is slow. Use divided plants 
when possible. Plant in partial shade in 
fairly rich, well-drained but moist soil. 
Good among rocks. The leaves die after the 
plants flower. 

Silk Oak {Grevillea robusta). For winter 
ornamental purposes sow the seeds during the 
previous February or March in ordinary 
potting soil; transplant the seedlings to 
small pots when about two inches tall, and 
give frequent changes of pots as root develop- 
ment seems to demand. By Christmas time 
the plants should be in four- or six-inch pots. 
They may be managed as easily as geraniums, 
and will stand as much bad usage. A new 
lot of seed should be started each year, since 
the plants become bare below as they become 
large. 

Snapdragon (Antirrhinum). Sow seeds 
in early spring under glass and transplant 
the seedlings to small pots or flats when large 



enough to handle. When the weather 
becomes settled place the plants about a 
foot apart in the garden, allowing about 
a foot between the smaller kinds and eighteen 
inches between the larger. Anj' garden soil. 
These plants should blossom in late summer, 
if not earlier. For earliest spring blossom 
and for winter use the seeds may be sown in 
late summer, the plants that are to bloom 
during the winter being removed before cold 
weather, the others, which are to blossom 
where they remain, being protected with a 
light mulch of straw or leaves until spring. 

Snowdrop (Galanthus). Plant the bulbs 
about three inches deep in any good soil, 
upon the lawn or in beds, in clumps or chains. 
They need not be removed from the beds for 
years. If desired to dig them, do so after 
the foliage has turned yellow. Dry in the 
shade, clean and store in a dry, airy place 
until planting time. In lawns, the grass 
often chokes the bulbs in three or four years, 
and renewal is necessary. 

Snowflake (Leucojum). Plant the bulbs 
two inches deep in ordinary garden soil in 
autumn. Allow the foliage to die naturally 
before digging for division, which should 
occur as soon as the plants show signs of 
deterioration. Useful for planting in lawns 
like snowdrops. 

Spir^a. Usually propagated by cuttings 
of green or mature wood, often also by seeds 
sown in spring. The plants usually thrive 
in all moderately moist soils except the 
lightest and heaviest; some, however, demand 
dry ground, thus being useful for planting 
among rocks; others (a few) wet and peaty 
situations. As with soil the species and 
varieties stand all degrees of shade (except 
the deepest) and light, even to full sun. But 
there is such a large number of kinds that 
enuiTieration for specific situations is impos- 
sible here. Their season extends from early 
spring until late autumn, the former generally 
being profuse bloomers of only a few weeks' 
duration, the latter less floriferous but of 
extended season. 

Squill. See Scilla. 

Sternbergia. Plant the bulb^ about six 
inches deep in rather heavy, dryish soil, well 
exposed to the sun. They may remain until 
they show signs of failing, when, after the 
tops have died down, they may be dug, 
divided and reset in a new place. 

Stock, Ten Weeks. Sow seeds in a mild 
hotbed or greenhouse in early spring; trans- 
plant the seedlings when about two inches 
tall to small pots, and when the ground 
becomes warm to ordinary garden soil about 
twelve or eighteen inches apart. Later and 
successional sowings may be made in the 
open ground. For winter bloom seed may be 
sown successionally, beginning in late summer. 
The plants grow readily from cuttings. 



Appendix 



365 



Stonecrop. See Sedum. 

Sultan, Sweet. Sow seeds in early spring 
where the plants are to remain and thin to 
about eighteen inches apart. Any garden 
soil. Make successional sowings. For winter 
use sow successionally, commencing in late 
summer. If desired, may be started in a 
mild hotbed or greenhouse and transplanted 
to small pots when about two inches tall. 
When spring opens they may be set in the 
garden. 

Sunflower (Hclianthus). Annual sun- 
flowers are raised from seed usually sown 
where the plants are to remain, the plants 
being allowed to stand from two to five feet 
apart according to species. The perennial 
species are generally divided after once 
having become established. They nearly all 
thrive best in a light, even sandy soil. 

SuN-ROSE {Hdianthemum). Sow seeds in 
rather poor soil where the plants are to 
remain; thin the small kinds to about six 
inches, the large ones to twelve inches,. In 
the north give a light mulch of litter or leaves 
during winter. 

Sweet Pea. See Pea, Sweet. 

Tea, Oswego. See Balm, Fragrant. 

Tiger-flower. See Tigridia. 

Tigridia. Plant the corms in any good 
garden loam, commencing when the ground 
becomes fairly warm and continuing at 
intervals of ten days or two weeks until about 
June I St. The corms should be from five 
to ten inches apart and three inches below the 
surface. At the approach of cold weather, 
dig the corms, dry well, divide, and store like 
gladiolus corms in dry, airy quarters. 

Tobacco. See Nicotiana. 

Torch Lily. See Flame-flower. 

Tritoma. See Flame-flower. 

Tritonia. Treat like Montbretia, which 
see. 

Tuberose (Polianthes). Plant the bulbs 
in mid or late spring, about one inch below 
the surface and about six inches apart in good, 
light loam. Only such bulbs as have not a 
woody piece of last year's stem or a brownish 
cavity in the center are of use for blossoming 
purposes. Before frost, dig, dry, clean and 
store the bulbs in an airy, frost-proof dark 
room. The offsets should be cut off at 
planting time and, if desired, planted by 
themselves. They may require two years 
to attain blossoming size. The old root 
should also be trimmed off at planting time. 

Tulip. Plant bulbs about four inches 
deep in autumn, and protect with light mulch 
during winter. When foliage turns yellow. 



dig, dry in a shady place, clean, and store 
in airy quarters imtil autumn. If desired, 
the bulbs may be left for two years. 

Verbena. Sow seed in midwinter or until 
early spring in the greenhouse or a hotbed; 
transplant when an inch or so tall to small 
pots and set in ordinary soil two feet apart 
as soon as danger of frost has passed. In 
good soil they need more room. Choose 
new situations each year. For the propa- 
gation of a particular variety or colour 
cuttings of sturdy shoots must be used, since 
seedlings are rather unstable as to colour. 
Germination of the seeds is thought to be 
hastened by soaking in warm water over 
night. 

Virgin's Bower. See Clematis. 

Wool Grass. See Ravenna Grass. 

Wandering Jew. See Zebrina. 

Windflower. See Anemone. 

Xeranthemum. Sow seeds in the open 
ground where the plants are to remain and 
thin out to about eighteen inches. They may 
be started under glass if desired. 

Yucca. Propagate by means of offsets, 
seed, stem, and rhizome cuttings. Plant in 
any good soil, sandy loam preferred. Set 
the plants about four feet apart in groups. 
They like sun and will do well among rocks. 

Zebrina. Set plants under greenhouse 
benches, in hanging baskets, vases, etc. 
Readily propagated by means of layers or 
cuttings. 

Zephyranthes. In autumn or during win- 
ter plant in pots of ordinary potting soil and 
plunge in a moist place under the greenhouse 
bench. The earlier planted specimens may 
be expected to bloom toward spring, if not 
allowed to become dry. Winter is, however, 
the resting season. When the weather 
becomes settled they may be transplanted to 
light, fairly rich soil. The bulbs may also be 
wintered in a rather moist place and planted 
in the spring. Long successions may be 
managed by combining these two methods. 
In the garden the plants should stand eight 
inches apart and the bulbs three inches deep. 
In autumn dig, divide the bulbs, and either 
plant or store. 

Zephyr-flower. See Zephyranthes. 

Zinnia. Sow the seed in early spring in 
a hotbed; transplant when a couple of inches 
tall to fiats or pots and set in the open after 
frost has passed. For later blossoms sow in 
the garden where the plants are to remain 
and thin out the excess to about two feet. 
Dwarf varieties may be set as close as five 
inches. 



INDEX 



Adder's tongue, 284 

Akcbia quinata, 97 

Allen, James J., article by, 283 

Alpine plants, 161 

Ampelopsis on a wall, 103 

Ampclopsis Veitchii, 102 

Anemone, xi 

Annuals for mass display, low-growing, 13 

Annuals for mass display, tall, 13 

Annuals, select lists of, 14 

Aponogcion disiachyiim, 159 

Aquatic basin, 148 

Arch, rose, 103 

Argctnone Mcxicana, 15 

Arundo Doiiax, 27 

Ash, weeping, 95 

Asptcniitm Trichomancs, 112 

Asters, 117 

Asters, China, 8 

Azalea amcrna, 62 

Azalea mollis, 55 

Azalea shed and pits, 195 

Azaleas, 219 

Bailey, L. H., articles by, ix, 3, 25, 53, 2c 

299 
Barclay, F. W., article by, 26 
Barron, Leonard, article by, 300 
Basin for aquatics, 148 
Bedding plants, 240 
Beech, purple-leaved, 85 
Beech, weeping, 94 
Begonia, Gloire de Lorraine, 185, 235 
Begonias, 210 

Bcrckmans, P. J., article by, 307 
Bergamot, wild. 286 
Birch, cut-leaved, 85 
Birch, Young's weeping, 92 
Bittersweet, American, 98, 102 
Bittersweet, Japanese, 98 
Blazing star, 31 
Bog garden, the, 160 
Boltonias, 31 
Border-planting, 70 
Border, How to Make a, 26 
Border of hardy perennial plants, 52 
Box borders, 248 
Brake, 115 
Bulbs, 119 

Buttercup, the Bermuda, 181 
Butterfly weed, 286 

California Wild Flowers, 293 

Cannas, 244 

Canning, Edward J., articles by, 132, 167 



Cardinal flower, the, 289, 290 

Carnation, 214 

Celastrus orbicidaius, 98 

Celastrus scandens, 98 

Cereus, night-blooming, xviii 

Cherry, Japanese weeping, 96 

Children's gardens, xxii 

Chrysanthemums, 234 

Chrysanthemums, hardy, 48 

Chrysanthemums on a side bench, 21S 

Clematis Flammula, 97 

Clematis paniculata, 97 

Climbers, 102 

Coldframes for Wintering Plants, 189 

Coldframes of brick and iron, 199 

Colour effect in borders, 29 

Concealing rubbish, 106 

Country Home, How I Built My, 323 

Cowslip, Virginia, in 

Crab, Japanese flowering, 71 

Crimson Rambler before pruning, 316 

Crimson Rambler pruned, 316 

Crimson Rambler, pruning, 77 

Crocuses, 126 

Crown Imperial, 29 

Cucumber and nasturtiums, wild, 106 

Cucumber, wild, 107 

Curve, xiv 

Curve in the driveway, 324 

Cut-leaved shrubs, 65 

Cyclamen, 180, 187 

Daffodil, Trumpet, 121 

Davy, Joseph Burtt, article by, 293 

Day lily, hybrid, 47 

Deutzia gracilis, 62 

Deutzia, pruning, 74 

Dodecatheon, 33 

Dog's tooth violet, 284 

Early flowers, 7, 16 

Elhs', J. A., article by, 218 

Elm, Camperdown, 94 

Erichsen, Hugo, article by, 226 

Eulalias, 27 

Evergreens in winter, 90, 95 

Everlastings, 14 

Falconer, William, article by, 69 

Fall planting, 33, 66 

Fassett, E. C. B., article by, 271 

Fences, xiv 

Fences, flowers to grow in, 10 

Fern, Christmas, 115, 116 

Fern, cinnamon, 115, 116 



367 



368 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Fern, climbing, 112 

Fern, Hartford, 112 

Fern, ostrich, 1 1 1 

Fern, royal, 116 

Ferns by the million, 117 

Ferns, cut, 117 

Ferns, native, iii 

Fiddleheads, 286 

Floating heart, 159 

Flower garden, an ideal, gi 

Flowers for comparative study, 4 

Flowers for cutting, 4 

Flowers for garden effects, 4 

Flowers for specimen plants, 4 

Forget-me-nots, 200 

Formal Garden, How to Make a, 239 

Forsythia. how to prune, 66, 77 

Forsythia, weak point of, 65 

Foxgloves, 43 

Freesias, 188 

Freezing, 33 

Frogs, 140 

Fullerton, Edith Loring, article by, 175 

FuUertons, article by, 106 

Gardening, a bit of Nature's, 108 

Gardening, both styles of, 245 

Gerard, J. N., article by, 189, 221 

Gilia Californica, 295 

Golden-leaved trees, 86 

Goldenrod, 289 

Goldfish feeding on mosquito larvae, 144 

Goodyera pitbescens, 291 

Grasses, formal beds of, 243 

Grasses, ornamental, 14 

Greenhouse, The Pleasures of a Small, 209 

Ground cover, xiv 

Ground-line, 57 

Harvey, E. T., article by, 229 

Hedge, a, 257 

Hedges, appropriate, 257 

Hedges, clippings from, 81 

Heliotrope, the common, 180 

Hemlock, Hooker's, 86 

Hollyhocks, 37. 51 

Home Garden. Spirit of the, ix 

Hopkins, Sarah, article by, 198 

Hotbeds for Early Flowers, 203 

Hunnemannia, 35 

Hyacinth, a truss of, 180 

Hyacinths, 177 

Hyacinths, white, 134 

Hydrangea, xvii 

Hydrangea hortcnsis, 74 

Hydrangea paniculaia, var. grandiflora, 78, 

Hydrangea, propagating, 78 

Hydrangea, pruning, 73 

Hydrangea, use of, 61 

Indian pipe. 294 

Iris, Japanese, xv, 141 

Iris laevigata, xv 

Italian garden at Brookline, an. 241 



Ivy, English, 102 
Ivy, Japan, 102 

Japanese Gardening for Small Areas, 259 
Jones, Laura, article by, 197 
Juneberry, 83 

Labels, x 

Lady's-slipper, iii, 287 

Landscape gardener for small place, 58 

Landscape gardening, 323 

Larch, weeping, 95 

Lemon lily, the, 297 

Leucothoe acemosa, 65 

Liatris, 31 

Lilac, California, 296 

Lilac, pruning, 74 

Lilacs, 79 

Lilies, Easter, 219 

Lilium superbum, 30, 328 

Liliiim testaceum, 74 

Lily-of-the-valley, xiv 

Limnanthcmiim Indicum, 159 

Lotus, Egyptian, 149 

Lotus in a farmer's yard. 151 

Lyciiim harbatum, loi, 102 

Lycium Chincnse, loi 

Lygodinm pahnatum. 112 

Magnolia slellaia, 85 

Magnolia Yulan, xix 

Maidenhair fern, 112 

Maidenhair ferns naturalised, 113 

Maitland, Maida, article by, 233 

Manning, Warren H., article by, 239 

Maple, Japanese, 82 

Matrimony vines, 102 

Melons in boxes, young, 205 

Mignonette, 201 

Mill covered by native vines, a, 108 

Minshall, Arthur G., article by, 214 

Miscanthus, 27 

Mock orange, 75 

Mock orange, pruning, 74 

Moneywort, X!\' 

Moonseed, loi 

Morning-glories, Japanese, g 

Mosquito problem, the, 137 

Mulberry, Tea's weeping, 93 

Mulching, 9 

Murray, Thomas, article by, 200 

Myriopbylhim proserpinacoides, 159 

Narcissus, 177 
Narcissus, a bed of, 131 
Narcissus gloriosus, 188 
Narcissus Horsfieldii, 121 
Narcissus, poet's, 127 
Narcissus Sulphur Pkcenix, 120 
Narcissus Tazetta, 183 
Narcissus Van Sion, 122 
Nclumhium speciosum, 149 
Nymphajas, 152 
Nymphcea tuberosa. xxiii, 152 



Index 



369 



Oak, swamp white, 90 

O'Mara, Patrick, articles by, 119, 194, 203 

Orchids, 215 

Osnmnda cinnamomea, 116 

Oxalis lutea, iSi 

Pan-American Exposition, 25 

Pansies, 200 

Parks, suggestions from, 58 

Parrot's feather, the, 159 

Pennisetum longtslylum, 27 

Peonies, 30 

Peony, the, 32S 

Pepperidge, 88 

Perennials, 25 

Perennials from seed, 36 

Pergola at Biltmore, N. C. 102 

Pergola in a formal garden at BrookUne, 107 

Periwinkle, xiv 

Philadelphia, 75 

Phlox, prickly, 295 

Pitcher plant in flower, 153 

Pitcher plants, 289 

Pits, 191 

Pits, inexpensive, 197 

Plagiobothrys, 294 

Plantain, western, x 

Plant- table, a, 19 

Plum, a wild, 88 

Plum, purple-leaved, 85 

Pond, how to make a, 148 

Pond- weed, cape, 159 

Poppies, 3 

Poppy, homed, 13 

Poppy, Mexican. 15 

Poppy of California, 45 

Primula obconica, 180 

Privet, propagating, 81 

Pruning, Nature's, gi 

Pruning shrubs, 6g 

Primus Anicncaiius, 88 

Psyche, 304 

Pteris aquilina, 115 

Pumpkins, 103 

Pumpkin vine at a back door, 104 

Purple-leaved shrubs, 65 

Pyrola, xiii 

Pyrus fhribunda, 71 

Quercus bicolor, 90 

Rathbone. Alice M., article by, 39 
Rattlesnake plantain, 291 
Reed, Edward A., article by, 225 
Reed, giant, 27 
Rhododendrons. 59 
Rhododendrons, illustration of, 63 
Rock gardens, 161 
Romneya Coulteri, 45 
Rosa rugosa, 299. 317, 319 
Rosa rugosa, pruning, 70 
Rosa spinosissima, 312 
Rose bank. a. 320 
Rose, Christmas, 51 



Rose, climbing General Jacqueminot. 313 

Roses, 53, 299 

Roses and pyrethrums, 25S 

Roses essentially flower-garden subjects, 65 

Roses for the South, 307 

Roses in California, 305 

Roses in shrubbery, 65 

Roses near Chicago, 311 

Roses, pruning, 77, 315 

Rudbeckia Golden Glow, 41 

Rue anemone, 285 

Salix Babylontca, 93 

Sargent, W. H., article by, 320 

Sarraccnia purpurea, 153 

Sawing a branch, gi 

Scale, bark, 70 

Scattered Planting vs Masses, 52 

Scott, William, 25 

Shady places, plants for, xiv 

Shin-leafs, xiii 

Shooting star, 33, 294 

Short la galactfotia, 44 

Shrubbery, Home Propagation of, 78 

Shrubs and shrubbery, 53 

Shrubs, native, for bulk of planting, 58 

Shrubs, select lists of, 61 

Shrubs that need little pruning, 73 

Shrubs that should be cut to the ground 

every winter, 73 
Shrubs, very showy, 61 
Simonds, O. C , article by, 83 
Sky-line, 57 

Snowballs, Japanese, pruning, 77 
Solidago Canadensis, 289 
Solomon's seal, false, 287 
Specimen plants, x 
Spirea, 67 
Spirea, pruning, 74 
Spraying, 6g 

Spruce, Colorado blue, 86 
Spruce, Nonvay, weeping, 94 
Squills covered with leaves for the winter, 125 
Stump, an old, 286 
Sumac, 57 
Sumac, staghom, 74 
Sun-dial, a, 252 
Sweet. Frank H., article by, 78 
Sweet pea. 7 
Sweet pea garden, 19 

Tamarix pruning, 73 

Taplin, W. H., article by, in 

Tecoma, 103 

Thyme, creeping, 286 

Toothwort, 288 

Townsend, C. H., article by, 271 

Trees for the Home Grounds, 83 

Trees in winter, 88 

Tricker, William, article by, 147 

Trillium grandiflorum, 2S8 

Trumpet creeper, 103 

Tsuga Hookerii, 86 

Tubs, aquatics in, 155 



370 



How to Make a Flower Garden 



Tulips, 133, 177 

Tulips edging an informal shrubbery border, 

129 
Tulips in a formal bed, 123 
Tulip tree, 84 
Twiners, 102 

Underwood, William Lyman, article by, 137 

Variegated shrubs, 65 

Venus's looking-glass, 286 

Verbeck, William, 259 

Victoria leaf, 159 

Victoria regia, 156 

Victoria regia in flower, 154 

Victoria regia, the wonderful sustaininij 

power of, 15s 
Vutoria Trickcri, 157 
Vines, a mill covered by native, 108 
Vines and creepers, 97 
Vines, annual, 106 
Vines, classification of, 102 
Vines needing support, 103 
Violets for coldframes, 200 
Violets in coldframes, 176, 198 
Virginia creeper, 97, 10 1 

Walking leaf, the, 112 
Walks, xiv 



Wallflowers, 200 

Wallflowers, annual, 3 

Water-garden, the, 137 

Watering:, 9, 34 

Water-lilies, 147 

Water-lilies as cut flowers, 147 

Water-lily, xxiii 

Water-lily pond, a, 156 

Water-lily pond, another view of the same, 

157 
Water-lily, the white, 151 
Watson, B. M., article by, 315 
Weeping trees, 92 
Western pasque flower, the, xi 
Wheel-hoe, 4 
White day lily, 47 

Wilbor, William Chambers, article by, 103 
Wild gardening, iii 
Wild gardens, 283 
Willow, Wisconsin w;eeping, 93 
Windbreak of willows, a, 191 
Window garden, a successful, 176 
Window Garden, The Home, 175 
Wintergreen, xiii, 294 
Wood, James, article b}', 190 

Yellow as a harmoniser, 44 
Yellow-leaved shrubs, 65 



